HEMU SPRING SHANGHAI 2020

HEMU was founded in Shanghai, China in 2010, with Oriental element and humanity as the origin of design. It adheres to the belief of originality, zen and inheriting Oriental culture, and is committed to creating an excellent Chinese original designer brand. HEMU takes the vast Chinese culture as its design inspiration and adheres to a low-key and concise design attitude. Continue reading

C + PLUS OF CHINA

The waves of desire and poetry were present and counterbalanced the vulgarity that had sat beside me, an Afida, an error of nature, was a stain in the ambient poetry, but all the disgust is in nature. Among the birds, there are also crows and chickens.

A cape shirt for a breath of beauty, in these days of grey fashion week in the Middle Kingdom, I will want to say “The Middle of the Downer”. This young Japanese man, where the Samurai of sewing makes war on the beautiful, tries to interpret the human heart and uses the sounds of a 35-ton truck to express the most nuanced feelings. He wishes to evoke images that should resonate powerfully in our imagination, but that only resonate in the Gobi desert. Continue reading

FASHION WEEK SHANGHAI

In addition to the four major fashion weeks, Shanghai has established itself as one of the most important fashion hubs in the East. Although the country’s best-known names such as Masha Ma and Uma Wang prefer to perform in Europe, Shanghai Fashion Week offers a platform for young independent labels such as Xuzhi, Oude Wang, and Shushu/Tong.

It is also an opportunity for foreign journalists and buyers to discover new local talent and to engage in a massive but often complex market. Among the labels to watch in the coming days are Ximon Lee, Anaïs Jourden (from Hong Kong and regularly in Paris), Staff Only, Oude Wang, and Shushu/Tong.

The Chinese scene of independent designers is young, but very lucrative, as young Chinese consumers are looking for local brands, which makes it Gen Z’s strong point.

Anonumode

A CHOO CAN HIDE A CHIC

Strictly speaking, Chinese art is understood as a European style of decoration whose origin expresses artistic exchanges between very distant civilizations and fundamentally different in their perception of the world. The term itself appeared in the French language around 1845, with a distinctly pejorative connotation that has long been disturbing. Continue reading

HONG KONG AND LVMH

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said sales rose 17 percent in the third quarter, fueled by rapid growth in fashion and leather goods. Sales totaled 13.32 billion euros in the three months ended Sept. 30, up 11 percent on an organic basis, the company said. Analysts had banked on a 9 percent rise in like-for-like revenues.

LVMH’s performance was driven by its key fashion and leather goods division, which includes Louis Vuitton, Dior and Fendi. It saw revenues rise by 19 percent on a like-for-like basis to 5.45 billion euros during the third quarter, again sharply exceeding consensus estimates.

Wines and spirits were up 8 percent, while perfumes and cosmetics recorded organic growth of 7 percent. Selective retailing, which includes duty free operator DFS and beauty retailer Sephora, grew 4 percent, and watches and jewelry posted a 5 percent increase. Continue reading

KERING AND RICHMONT

During a visit to Kering Eyewear’s headquarters at the 17th-century Villa Zaguri here, about an hour away from Venice, Vedovotto spoke of the newly inaugurated logistics center unveiled by Kering chief François-Henri Pinault during Milan Fashion Week last month  and provided an update on the performance of the company, which he set up in 2014, launching a new business model.

Today, Kering Eyewear develops and distributes collections for 15 brands: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Alaïa, Brioni, Boucheron, Pomellato, McQ and Puma.

In March 2017, Compagnie Financière Richemont became a stakeholder in Kering Eyewear, which led to the production of Cartier eyewear. Collections for Montblanc, Courrèges and Balenciaga have been added since January. From 33 employees in December 2014, Kering Eyewear now has around 1,300 employees, of which 60 percent are women. Out of the total, 55 percent hail from countries outside Italy. Continue reading

CHANEL AT THE CONTEMPT OPERA

As a reminder of the links between Gabrielle and the world of dance, Chanel is a sponsor of the opening gala of the 2019/20 Paris Opera dance season, which was held last week. And it is clear that there are many uneducated people today! Indeed, the Paris Opera has paid tribute in its own way to Serge Lifar and rehabilitating within the choreographic heritage is that reasonable! The most controversial man after the war and the mix of genres between Coco Chanel, a great lover of “artistic” collaboration, did not surprise anyone! An educated person will probably have slipped the information into the hands of a “Dir Conne” who is infertile to culture.

It should be noted that when France signed the Armistice in 1940, Lifar chose to collaborate by becoming a great friend of the Nazi party. He became one of the “stars” of Parisian cultural and social life, and twenty times on the job he handed over his outrage, between German officers and collaborators with whom he was in contact, he congratulated Germany after the capture of Kiev. Continue reading

MARINE SERRE PARIS 2020

Last week in Longchamp, it was not the oil cat walk as Marine Serre had promised, but rather the Black Marine, and in addition to the rain falling on Paris as the new products of the LVMH group would. Here is the designer dressed by the Lord of Fashion Ring Bernard Arnault, for whom the red carpet was pulled out, and who unrolls his oil black carpet for us.

Being offered Longchamp before Dior, the Granville master would have been very upset. And all this for a very dull collection despite all the money spent and the advisers of the Lady of the Châtelet.

Dubbed “Marée Noire” (“Black Tide” in French), the collection is rife with signature Serre designs, updated with moody hues appropriate for the disquieting theme black jumpsuits, jackets and bags referenced both the oil that hastens environmental shifts and the shades worn by protestors, while splashes of red are an ode to drawn blood. Tiny, delicate bags and clutched pooches hint at bourgeoisie ladies escaping mutating landscapes, while tailored suiting is upended by tonal camouflage and towel-like textiles, speaking to the utilitarian needs of a post-apocalypse society. Continue reading

SLIMANE OUTSIDE THE IMAGINATION

The lobotomized imagination, already in the case of Saint Laurent, he thought Celine was a sophisticated lady of the upper middle class who had undergone a genetic manipulation of botox with a bohemian. Really, the 70s shine with pink chiffon dresses, blue buttoned heels and blazers with a trench coat and the classic plaid jacket, spread over the past two years by Alessandro Michele at Gucci.

The bourgeoisie of Parck Avenue, with their hands in their pockets, in jeans, basketball, shirts open to miscellaneous medals or a bourgeois fashion post 60 from the great century.

The leather jackets and scarves of Loulou de la Falaise, Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic muse coming out of his latest “Detintox-Botox” treatment, fans of the designer will surely appreciate, but, for us, Slimane’s signature is still linked to the memories of the years when Paris was the epicentre of this glamour and celebration, and when Saint Laurent was the cornerstone of fashion but with collections that were created in the workshops and outside nightclubs. Continue reading

McCARTNEY’S CHIC AND FLOURISH

Videos of countless copulating species covered the already highly decorated walls of McCartney’s show venue at the Opera Garnier. The message was either one of hope for Mother Earth or, “Hey, if we’re headed for extinction, let’s have a mother of a good time now.”

She joined the LVMH stable earlier this year with a role beyond her own brand, as a special adviser to Bernard Arnault and the group’s executive committee on sustainability.

This collection is her brand’s most sustainable ever. Which makes two reasons for her f–king good mood. The first: The lineup looked beautiful, “inspired by all of the fierce women, past, present and future, who aren’t afraid to make the world their own. The free spirits, the wild ones, the artists and the risk takers.”

BALMAIN MATCHES WITH CARDIN

In the end, the promised media frenzy did not come to pass: Kylie Jenner, who was supposed to oversee the makeup at Balmain’s show in Paris on Friday, canceled her appearance. “Unfortunately I’m really sick and unable to travel. I’m heartbroken to be missing this show,” she wrote on Twitter.

Rousteing said the collection was a tribute to the style of the late Nineties and early Aughts, as seen through the prism of pop culture. “Fashion is always referencing the Eighties and the Seventies, but there is a new vintage that for me is the 2000s,” said Rousteing.

Rousteing said he also delved into the archives of founder Pierre Balmain. But with its profusion of optical effects and circular motifs, the lineup recalled nothing so much as Pierre Cardin, the pioneer of the Space Age look. Continue reading

DIOR LOST IN THE BLACK FOREST

It was the tree that hides the forest. Maria Chiuri, more activist than ever, used ecology as a pretext to replace the trees in the Amazon forest. His place for that: Longchamp and more than 200 trees in its center. Where it will take tons and tons of fuel and carbon tax to re-finance in order to finally bring the inappropriate decor to this pseudo-ecological, zero-emission, ecological delirium, but no matter the end always justifies the means.

Falling trees from the sky, a kind of “Fashion Pact” in response to Mr. Pinault! The lord telling him I send wood too. A tree, by the way, had fallen when we arrived and when the security men rushed to pick it up. I said, “It’s okay. It does not stain. The models dressed in Greta Thunberg’s duvets march between the trees to the music of Bach’s Leipziner Choir, and the wolves around the forest shake so that in the darkness the serving “Me-too” can remove the little gourds. Continue reading

JEAN PATOU BY HENRY

The fashion designer takes the reins at the storied fashion house, as Patou approaches its 100th anniversary. Guillaume Henry shares his ambitions for the French heritage brand, which has been dormant since the 1980s. With an out-of-the-ordinary vision, Henry hopes to awaken this sleeping beauty from a decades-long slumber.

This afternoon, Patou will present its first ready-to-wear collection designed by Guillaume Henry. The last time this French maison, founded in 1914 by Jean Patou, hit the runway, it was precisely in July 1986 during the Haute Couture presentations. The maison’s stylist at that time was Christian Lacroix and, the day after the show, Lacroix resigned and established his own label with the financial support of Bernard Arnault. From then on, the brand has merely been able to survive through its cosmetics and fragrance businesses – its fragrance “Joy” being particularly successful. A success which ultimately convinced the LVMH Group to acquire all of Patou’s activities in 2018 and repurpose the fragrance’s name within Christian Dior perfumes. Continue reading

JENNER ROUSTEING MAKEUP

Kylie Jenner is about to add a new line to her bulging résumé: Olivier Rousteing has asked the cosmetics entrepreneur to be the artistic director for makeup at his Balmain show during Paris Fashion Week.

To celebrate the event, Kylie Cosmetics and Balmain will launch a capsule collection for sale online on Sept. 27, the day of the show, available worldwide on Kylie Cosmetics; web site. Jenner will attend a party at the Balmain store on Rue Saint-Honoré on Friday to toast the collaboration, which includes lip color, eye shadow, and accessories incorporating makeup that will be unveiled at the show. Continue reading

DIOR UN GALOP D’ESSAI DE SAUVEGARDE

In the run-up to her spring 2020 runway show for Dior on Tuesday, the designer has been delving into the brand’s archives  and in particular its rich tradition of floral designs while trying to imagine how that heritage could be updated to address today’s climate crisis.

Her answer? A collaboration with the Paris-based landscape and urbanism collective Coloco on the set for the show, to be held at the Longchamp racecourse in Paris, which will feature 164 trees that will subsequently be replanted in four locations in and around the French capital.

Coloco, whose expertise ranges from botanical activism to ecological engineering, was founded on the idea that gardens should be collective endeavors. The show set was conceived as an “inclusive garden” that promotes the need for plant diversity as a response to climate change. Continue reading

UNITED COLORS OF JCCB

Jean-Charles de la Casa de Castel, newly appointed artistic director at United Colors of Baratton, (a cream!). But the question is: can a man over 70 rejuvenate a brand that is the most metaphorical in Italy, and thus restore confidence to these paranoid young Millennials who live around us and who think the world is full of evil people, to such an extent that they are taught in companies to be kind to their neighbours? A real highlight!

This is a challenge worthy of this son of “midge”. Your mission (if you accept it) will be to awaken the brand. Mission impossible? And, well, no, that’s it. The collection was perfectly balanced, playing between Luciano’s heritage more American than express, and with the inspiration of JCCB, which will not plunge us into the depths of the water or the “inherited bone”. It depends on.

This is the great return of the elders to the manoeuvre. Yes, the main inspiration was the idea of water, a link with travel and sailors. Would the foam have excited him so much to touch the pompom? Amazing for a straight guy! With a sailor like Popeye and a Lula in an ecological canvas background, this is a collection that is full of energy with its excess spinach. Continue reading

THE CADENCE OF MY HEART

Like a Japanese mask a resulting from a genetic mutation of the NÔ theatre and a tyrant, here is a hazardous drama in the detail where one cannot remain indifferent to the pathetic of a Japanese forgetting the values of the symbolism of Mount Fuji, where the origin of the sun is translated as “the Empire of the Rising Sun”, will not be justified in being a nauseous abscess. It is a couture out of memory, an organza from Japan and declined in more than 400 shades for a fashionable inspiration of the dresses of Cristobal Balenciaga, Lee Bowery or Sailor Moon, tells us the famous newspaper Magazine of fashion run without ever saying the name of the real designer, Stella Cadente. Continue reading

FASHION PACT OR ACT ?

One month after the ink dried on the G7 fashion pact Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault presented to world leaders in Biarritz last month, its marquis brand, Gucci, has gone completely carbon neutral.

Thursday, the Italian luxury brand said that it implemented manufacturing efficiencies to avoid and reduce its impact across the supply chain. It will also offset carbon emissions generated by preparations of its upcoming Spring/Summer fashion show by planting trees in Milan. “Gucci will continue to work in a smart and strategic way to avoid and reduce our impact, while simultaneously investing in innovation as a driver for sustainability,”

The environmental pact Pinault presented at the Group of 7 summit in Biarritz included 32 signatories including vanguard luxury companies Prada and Chanel, Nike, and fast fashion retailers like the H&M Group and Inditex, the parent company of Zara. Continue reading