Category Archives: BREAKING MODE
VUITTON SMOKES MARIJUANA IN PARIS
It is bingo for Bernard Arnault. He has bet on a new afro-american designer, Virgil Abloh. Yesterday he attended with his two sons at the front row. During the show there was a smell of marijuana. He was a choc between two worlds, as if a family of Boston was meeting an afro-american of Harlem. The mix gave a stunning collection. Continue reading
CEO BUT ALSO NEW HUSBAND
Tory Burch and Pierre-Yves Roussel have joined forces at work and at home. Tory Burch (née Robinson; born June 17, 1966) is an American fashion designer, businesswomant.
On Tuesday Tory Burch named Pierre-Yves Roussel, a former LVMH Moët Hennessey Louis Vuitton executive, as her chief executive, moving herself into the role of chief creative officer and executive chairman. That Mr. Roussel also happens to be her new husband (they were married in November after becoming engaged in 2016) is both par for the course in the industry and something of a redesign.
And while Ms. Burch has been both C.E.O. and designer since founding her brand in 2004, increasingly conventional wisdom has it that it is better for a leader to focus on one area than try to be all things to all parts of their brand (see: Christopher Bailey and his brief experiment with being both chief creative officer and C.E.O. of Burberry). Continue reading
HERON PRESTON OPENS PARIS FASHION
Streetwear on the runways of Paris has always been that vision that I’ve shared with my friends, the ultimate opportunity to present some new fresh ideas in a city and platform that we have always looked up to,” said Heron Preston, who today at the Palais de Tokyo will present the first runway show of his namesake label, as part of the official calendar of Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Call him a quick learner. Preston, who was “raised” by the skate culture in San Francisco where he grew up, and who first started making noise in 2012 with his art-project bootleg spins on the Givenchy Rottweiler T-shirt, said that it was only around four years ago, when he started working with Kanye West, that he was introduced to the world of Paris fashion.
A former art director for West, Preston who’s considered a post-Internet Renaissance man worked at Nike and was also a part of the Been Trill art and DJ collective with Virgil Abloh, Justin Saunders and Matthew Williams. Continue reading
VUITTON TRANSGENDER SHOW
Nicolas Ghesquière showcased his designs on stars ranging from Jennifer Connelly and Chloë Grace Moretz to transgender actress Indya Moore. Louis Vuitton has tapped an all-star cast for its pre-fall look book, cementing a growing trend for pre-collections traditionally viewed as commercial filler between runway shows to act as major communications platforms for luxury brands. Continue reading
PRADA MENSWEAR 2019 MILAN
GLAMOUR IS OVER
As canal-luxe first reported in September, the 80 year old beauty glossy magazine is ceasing to be a traditional print publication at the start of 2019. The move comes as a surprise to no one as simply looking at the latest issue of the magazine, pamphlet size at barely more than 100 pages with roughly 40 pages of third-party ads, is a clear indicator that things in print are far from what they once were.
Glamour for many decades was a huge money-maker for Condé, frequently referred to internally as the publisher’s “cash cow.” Payments for placements and ads poured in from the beauty industry, making the magazine’s shift away from print all the more striking. Beauty brands have been some of the fastest to adapt and thrive in the Instagram age of advertising none need the approval of a magazine editor when they can have an cadre of influencers posting praise of products. Continue reading
BEYOND CLOSET KOREA FLORENCE 2019
MOSCHINO MENSWEAR 2019 ROME
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN LONDON 2019
Christopher Raeburn’s is celebrating his 10 years in business in which many of his contemporaries have fallen by the wayside. In large part, that’s doubtlessly due to the bracing reality of the clothes he creates: functional, intelligible, simple, desirable. But his philosophy – to make fashion in a responsible, open, and transparent way has gone from being a fringe concern to becoming a core part of the industry’s conversations with itself, and with a wider world. His anniversary show was dedicated to Raeburn’s greatest hits utility-focused outerwear, no-nonsence knits, streamlined joggers.
But there was a new, heightened transparency during the show quite literally, in the case of clear nylon puffer jackets, filled with multicoloured fabric offcuts, in taped-seam outerwear and cashmere sweaters patchworked with recycled knits.There might have been other, more visually futuristic collections on show yesterday, but Raeburn was perhaps offering the most Continue reading
GOLDEN HORRIBLE RED CARPET
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY LONDON 2019
NEW FAUX FUR COATS
Last year, an unprecedented number of fashion maisons – Gucci, Givenchy, and Michael Kors among them – decided to stop producing fur coats. With a brand new year ahead, now is the chance to pick up a new faux fur, Continue reading
DIOR’S WINDOW AT HARRODS
Dior celebrates the festive season where magical window scenarios, lighting and paper creations come together elegantly with a nod to their destination through iconic landscape representations such as the London Eye for Dior’s windows at Harrods.
There were two places I wanted to go during childhood visits to London: Hamley’s toy shop and Harrods, where the Brompton road windows seemed to expand into infinity and which still ignite in me a kind of happy retail hysteria. I wasn’t disappointed, then, last week when I happened upon these cracking displays by fashion house Dior.
It’s all part of “Dior at Harrods,” a spring salad of British retail ingenuity topped with French dressing that will keep until April 14. Continue reading