Category Archives: BREAKING MODE

PARIS FASHION WARMED UP

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Paris Fashion Week will go ahead this fall with 88 brands on the official calendar, although it is not yet known how many of them will be holding physical shows and presentations.

Among the major brands revealed to be missing from the schedule this season are Celine, Alexander McQueen, Comme des Garçons and Off-White. As reported, Saint Laurent and Valentino are also skipping the Paris season.

The list of absentees also includes Sacai, Lacoste, Lemaire, Junya Watanabe, Noir Kei Ninomiya, Rochas, Atlein, Guy Laroche and Kwaidan Editions. Rochas has been without a designer since last December after parting ways with Alessandro Dell’Acqua, and Lemaire showed its coed collection during the men’s week in July.

The spring 2021 collections for Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe and Noir Kei Ninomiya will be unveiled during mini shows or presentations in Tokyo between Oct. 19 and 23 as part of Comme des Garçons’ seasonal showroom there. And Franck Sorbier for a physical Show in Paris Downtown. Continue reading →

MEN MORE CASUAL OR NOT ?

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Now, as businesses across Europe and the U.S. begin to reopen, the question is raging as to whether those men going back to their offices are prepared to return to their dress wardrobe and ditch the casual look. Meanwhile, the fall collections shown nine months ago seemingly ancient history are just hitting stores.

The world has changed a lot since we saw the fall 2020 men’s wear collections in January. We’ve seen a seismic shift in the landscape due to the COVID-19 pandemic and quarantines that have shifted the fashion focus to things more comfortable and relaxed.

“We’ve seen classic pieces like the cardigan sweater in all of its iterations take on new importance as a comfortable, versatile jacket option that gives polish to a more casual look

No one could have predicted we were about to embark on a global crisis in January, when much of the fall collections were focused on tailoring and the new suit for the everyday working man. We’re seeing men are excited about updating their wardrobes for fall but leaning into pieces focused on quality, design and function. Continue reading →

CARDI B LIKE BELFEGORE

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Cardi B as Belfegor comes to haunt the Louvre. Beyoncé and Jay-Z took over the Louvre in Paris for the shoot of their “Apes–t” video in 2018. Cardi B is taking it to the next level with the unveiling on Tuesday of a giant billboard on the side of the museum featuring her debut in a Balenciaga advertising campaig, the quatari from brittany don’t know how to recognize vulgarity

The “WAP” singer, sporting a sleek black bob, is shown reclining on fake grass surrounded by bright yellow kids’ toys, wearing a slinky, black evening gown with an asymmetric cleavage cut low over one breast. Among the objects scattered on the ground is a pristine white version of Balenciaga’s new Neo Classic handbag, the slogan could be, throw your bag Piggy in the midle of the Louvre.

The image is part of the Kering-owned label’s (For the Owl Kering) winter campaign, which it said was self-styled and self-produced during lockdown by its network of friends, which also include American artist Eliza Douglas, a regular on the Balenciaga runway. Continue reading →

TEN UNKNOWN LABEL IN PARIS

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Ten labels have been added to the upcoming Paris fashion week, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode said Monday, listing them as Ami, Cecilie Bahnsen, Enfants Riches Deprimés, Ester Manas, Gabriela Hearst, Mossi, Situationist, S.R Studio LA.CA, Vejas and Wales Bonner. Ten unknown labels in Paris Fashion week, and that nobody knows who has chosen them.

The spring-summer 2021 collections are expected to be a mix of digital and physical shows in Paris from Sept. 28 to Oct. 6, in conformance with requirements from local health authorities. Ami has said it plans to stage a physical show in the French capital, but outdoors.

French officials recently tightened measures to slow the spread of the coronavirus as people return from summer vacation and head back to work and school, requiring the public to wear masks in offices and on the streets.

Earlier this summer, the federation canceled physical shows for couture and men’s fashion week, and set up an online platform for designers to showcase videos for their collections. Continue reading →

ORANGE IS THE NEW VUITTON

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The second drop of Louis Vuitton LV2 collection, the collaboration between men’s artistic director Virgil Abloh and Bape and Human Made founder Nigo, has arrived with a temporary residency in New York City, 116 Greene Street : SoHo NY New York.

The SoHo storefront has been transformed as well with a bright yellow facade with drip effect, as well as large sculptures of the LV Made duck, which is the symbol of the collection, turtle rugs inspired by Nigo’s Human Made rugs, customized drum sets at the entrance, oversized mannequins and custom Marshall and Louis Vuitton speakers with LV x Nigo logos all in bright yellow.

LV2, which is Abloh’s first collaboration for Louis Vuitton, was revealed in December 2019 and launched in June. The second drop that launched today is also available on the Louis Vuitton web site. Continue reading →

BOARD OF CARTIER IS ON THE DOCK

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The coronavirus crisis delayed changes to the board of Compagnie Financière Richemont as well as its business strategy, according to the group’s chairman Johann Rupert.

“The new profile of the board must reflect the opportunities and challenges that we’re facing, evolving tastes, consumption habits, digital, Chinese clientele, cyber criminalities, diversity and inclusion matters, training needs, change management,” Rupert said.

“So we will be changing the board and we would have started this year but we need time to also transition the committees,”.

Noting that he had urged caution early on in the coronavirus crisis when it became clear that the group’s cash flow was being “badly affected,” by the drop in consumption, the executive said that at the end of August, there remains uncertainty over when a treatment or vaccine might emerge to prompt consumers to resume traveling and spending money. Continue reading →

FAN RECOVERS HER FANS

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Chinese actress Fan Bingbing is back, two years after being fined nearly $130 million for a highly publicized tax-evasion scandal and avoiding the limelight as a result.

Now, she has a global contract with LVMH prestige beauty brand Guerlain, and appears in its Chinese Valentine’s Day campaign to promote the limited-edition Rouge G lipstick, which comes with pink heart motifs on the packaging.

Fan was ranked as China’s best-paid actress four years running, according to Forbes, and places among the world’s best-paid, with more than 130 endorsement contracts, including Louis Vuitton, Montblanc and De Beers at the height of her stardom.

She is also expected to star in the period drama;Win the World,a $70 million television series, and Universal Pictures upcoming spy film alongside Jessica Chastain, Penélope Cruz, Lupita Nyong’o and Sebastian Stan. Continue reading →

THE LORD OF LOUIS MING DYNASTY

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Louis Vuitton’s Biggest Shanghai Store Sees Record-High $22M in August Sales. Louis Vuitton is on track to make sales history in China amid a strong COVID-19 rebound.

Its flagship in Shanghai’s Plaza 66, the largest in China, is expected to make $22 million in August, usually the sales at the store come in between $11 million and $13 million.

Local press said showgoers flocked to the Plaza 66 store to pick up head-to-toe new season looks for the event of the summer, which helped send sales up. Fortunately it was not at 666 the number of sales devil.

The Chinese Valentine’s Day, were also key factors driving up August sales. The event has been a national phenomenon, with shoppers queuing outside luxury stores in recent weeks to get a hold of limited-edition items brands have released exclusively for the world’s biggest luxury market. The lords of luxury become the lord of the Louis ming dynasty. Continue reading →

RISE AND FALL FOR MASSIMO

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Mossimo Giannulli, Lori Loughlin Sentenced to Jail Time in College Admissions Scandal
Fashion Designer Mossimo Giannulli received five months jail time, while “Full House” actress Lori Loughlin received two months.

The fashion designer was sentenced to five months in prison Friday morning for his part in the nationwide college admissions scandal, just hours before his wife, “Full House” actress Lori Loughlin, learned her own fate. Loughlin, who was believed to have a less active role in the crimes, received two months of jail time.

The sentence was a clear message from U.S. District judge Nathaniel Gorton that college admissions cannot be bought. Giannulli also received two years of supervised release, 250 hours of community service and a $250,000 fine, while Loughlin received two years of supervised release, 100 hours of community service and a $100,000 fine. Continue reading →

CLEOPATRA OIL

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Cleopatra used to keep her skin radiant and glowing, Egyptian Magic cream has become a Cultural treatment all over the world. Olive oil is having a moment, both in and out of the kitchen. Whether induced by quarantine cooking or consumers’ growing predilection for all things clean, olive oil has found its way into baked confections and skin-care products alike. Lifestyle brand Poosh even recently collaborated with a Los Angeles-based bakery on a variety of olive oil cakes.

Furtuna is one of the brands capitalizing on the ingredient’s buzz. “It’s high in antioxidants and it also includes vitamins A, D and K, as well as E. It’s amazing what olive oil can do for your health. Furtuna Skin, founded by Luczo and Kim Walls, offers a range of products all enriched with Italian olive oil sourced from a 700-acre farm in Sicily. Continue reading →

THE DREAM OF ARNAULT BELGIUM

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It hopes that humor can serve to energize the local shopping scene, Le Bon Marché is filling the store with Belgium-themed merchandise starting Aug. 29, with an emphasis on the country’s cartoon tradition.

The Smurfs, Marsupilami and Gaston Lagaffe are among characters decorating the selling space as well as merchandise throughout the tony, Paris Left Bank department store and its neighboring food hall, La Grande Épicerie de Paris and even spilling out into the street, with stands selling beer and fries. I’d have preferred Balthazar Picsou.!!!

Retailers have been struggling to draw shoppers into stores even before the coronavirus crisis hit  it’s hard to compete with the convenience of online purchases turning to events and temporary, exclusive offers to drum up consumer interest. The store called on comedian Stéphane De Groodt to take part in the Belgium theme, resulting in hoodies, T-shirts and pouches with word play in French. A box of matches, for example, which are called “allumettes” in French, is stamped “allumeuses,” which means “teasers.” The theme runs through Oct. 18. Continue reading →

VIRTUAL FASHION FOR VIRTUAL CLIENTS

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August Getty’s couture is going virtual with the help of a new digital fashion shop, the Institute of Digital Fashion in London.

Created by Leanne Elliott Young, founder of creative hub CommuneEast, and Cattytay, founder of the Digi-Gxl network of women, trans and nonbinary 3-D artists, the company aims to animate the tactile vision and creativity of designers with AR and VR, while thinking about ways to push inclusivity, diversity and sustainability in fashion.

Their first high-profile client is the Los Angeles-based designer, whose eveningwear has been worn by sister-in-law Gigi Gorgeous, as well as by Kim Kardashian West, Paris Hilton, Miley Cyrus and Katy Perry, Since the couture institutions no longer invite them to Europe.

Cattytay and her digital atelier; are building an online world called Tinnitus, similar to a gaming world, in which Getty will debut his new collections. Continue reading →

KERING SAID …

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Kering said net profit fell 63.4 percent in the first six months of the year after the coronavirus pandemic.

Group revenues in the three months to June 30 fell 43.5 percent to 2.17 billion euros, representing a decline of 43.7 percent in comparable terms. This came on the heels of a 15.4 percent drop in the first quarter.

In percentage terms, the decline was greater than the one recorded by sector leader LVMH, which on Monday reported a 38 percent drop in second-quarter sales, but was below a consensus of analyst estimates, which called for a 48 percent fall.

Kering flagged an “encouraging” recovery as stores reopened, particularly in the Asia-Pacific region, and saw a 72.4 percent jump in online sales in the second quarter. But organic sales at its cash cow brand Gucci fell 44.7 percent during the period, compared with a 23.2 percent drop in the prior three months. Continue reading →

LVMH NET PROFIT DIVES 84 % IN CHINA

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LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said net profit plummeted 84 percent in the first six months of the year, although it forecasts a gradual recovery in the second half, supported by a strong recovery in China during the second quarter.

Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH, said the group had shown “exceptional resilience” during the health crisis. “While we have observed strong signs of an upturn in activity since June, we remain very vigilant for the rest of the year,” he said in a statement.

“Thanks to the strength of our brands and the responsiveness of our organization, we are confident that LVMH is in an excellent position to take advantage of the recovery, which we hope will be confirmed in the second half of the year, and to strengthen our lead in the global luxury market in 2020,” he added. Continue reading →

A ITALIAN FOR MARGIELA

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Gianfranco Gianangeli joins the Paris-based fashion house Margiela after stints at Givenchy, Prada and Bottega Veneta

Gianangeli joins the Paris-based fashion house from his family-owned, namesake knitwear manufacturer in Perugia, Italy. Before that, he was global retail director at Givenchy and associate international director at Prada. He also worked for several years at Bottega Veneta in various merchandising positions and as that brand’s regional vice president in Japan.

Gianangeli joins a fast-growing brand powered by the creative vision of John Galliano, who recently documented the making of his wet-look Margiela couture dresses and diced-and-spliced tailoring in a mesmerizing 50-minute film with Nick Knight. Continue reading →

MILAN FASHION WEEK 2020

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Milan Digital Fashion Week Scores Highest Among European Fashion Capitals. The combined earned media value generated online by the London, Paris and Milan fashion weeks amounted to 10.7 million euros.

The first edition of Milan Digital Fashion Week closed on July 17 with a bang. Although observers have been pointing the online traffic generated by the London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks sent a reassuring message to the industry, forced to forgo physical events for the most part at least until September.

In particular the Milan showcase, which kicked off on July 14 and featured brands such as Prada, Ermenegildo Zegna and Gucci, among others, had the highest impact amassing 6.24 million euros in EMV, followed by Paris, with an EMV of 2.68 million euros and London Fashion Week that generated 1.81 million euros, or 17 percent of the total. The study took into consideration the July 9 to 13 period for Paris, excluding the previous days dedicated to haute couture collections. Continue reading →

CREATIVE TALENT QUIT HERMES

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A discreet, yet pivotal creative talent at Hermès International that some insiders describe as its;secret weapon is exiting the brand, bad bosses never keep good employees, Goodbye Hermés hello Kering.

Bali Barret, artistic director of the women’s product universe, has submitted her resignation and will exit the French house sometime this fall.

Practically unknown to the general public, and familiar to relatively few in the fashion world, Barret’s profile is somewhat akin to Alessandro Michele, who toiled behind the scenes for years at Gucci, while being responsible for products that generate the lion’s share of brand revenues.

Barret joined Hermès in 2003 as artistic director of its silk department, where she recruited street artists and other young creatives to bring fresh ideas to the category. She was promoted to her current position in 2009, giving her purview over all women’s departments, including leather goods, rtw, footwear, silks, jewelry, watches, beauty and fashion accessories.

According to insiders, said to be fiercely loyal to Barret’s leadership and design vision, she helped ;revolutionize; Hermès by modernizing its products and processes, bringing much-needed oxygen to a heritage brand with a conservative style streak. Continue reading →

VIRTUAL FASHION BORN TO BE ALIVE

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With safety measures in place, fashion weeks in these Asian fashion capitals will return to physical showcasing in October. Shanghai, Tokyo, Seoul and Beijing Fashion Weeks to Return.

As a few brands are beginning to do physical shows again at the end of the Spring 2021 men’s wear season, fashion weeks in Shanghai, Tokyo, Seoul and Beijing, where the coronavirus pandemic has been largely contained, are planning to press ahead with fully fledged physical fashion shows this October.

Return on Oct. 8, a spokesperson for the Shanghai Fashion Week Committee told. It hosted the world’s first online fashion week in partnership with Tmall amid lockdowns in March with mix results, but the livestreaming and selling component will be integrated into the physical fashion week to enable brands to have an omnichannel presence with both the trade audience and the public. Continue reading →

RICHEMONT A CARTIER TO 1.99

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Sales at Compagnie Financière Richemont nearly halved in the first quarter to 1.99 billion euros, despite double-digit growth in China fueled by jewelry and fashion. Sales fell 47 percent in the three months to June 30 due to store and workshop closures, anemic tourism and a lack of appetite for hard and soft luxury worldwide during the pandemic.

China was the outlier, growing 49 percent in the period. As a whole, the Asia-Pacific region was down 29 percent, with sales of 1.01 billion euros, and was Richemont’s largest market in the period.

In Europe, sales fell 59 percent to 436 million euros, with all markets impacted by public health protection measures, as well as by subdued local demand and a lack of international tourism. In the Americas region, sales were down 61 percent to 277 million euros, while in Japan they fell 64 percent to 112 million euros.

The Middle East and Africa region fared slightly better, with sales falling 38 percent, partly reflecting advanced purchases in anticipation of Saudi Arabia’s VAT increase on 1 July. Continue reading →

PRADA MINIMALISM

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For her last collection as the solo Prada creative director starting from September she will be joined at the creative helm by Raf Simons Miuccia Prada let five artists interpret her spring effort through five short videos, offering different interpretations and takes on the men’s and women’s lineup.

The message, The pandemic, the economic crisis, the social tensions spreading around the globe can’t leave anyone indifferent, and cannot leave a sensitive designer like Prada unresponsive.

This is a moment that requires some seriousness, a moment to think and to reflect on things. What do we do, what is fashion for, what are we here for? What can fashion contribute, to a community?”

In keeping with her commitment, the designer embraced an unfussy yet highly sophisticated approach, minimal yet emotional. Combining function and aesthetics, she proposed the alpha and the omega of the brand’s fashion lexicon, exuding no nostalgia, only contemporary desirability.

Touches of Nineties minimalism emerged along with a subtle Sixties vibe, but Prada really focused only on what is relevant today, for boys and girls, men and women, living in our own world, with its joys and its limits. Continue reading →

FRENCH HANDBAG 25 % MORE

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The administration of President Trump said late Friday that it would impose 25 percent duties on $1.3 billion worth of French fashion goods, the response to a digital services tax in France that impacts companies such as Amazon, Apple, Google and Facebook.

The office of U.S. Trade Representative Robert Lighthizer said it would delay implementation of the action for up to 180 days if “the Trade Representative determines that substantial progress is being made, or that a delay is necessary or desirable to obtain U.S. rights or satisfactory solution.”

That gives the U.S. and France until Jan. 6 to hold “bilateral and multilateral discussions that could lead to a satisfactory resolution of this matter,” the USTR said. Continue reading →

VIRGIL ABLOH RAISES $1M

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Virgil Abloh said on Thursday he has raised $1 million for a scholarship fund for Black fashion students.

The founder of luxury streetwear label Off-White and artistic director of men’s wear at Louis Vuitton has entered a long-term partnership with the Fashion Scholarship Fund to launch the Virgil Abloh “Post Modern” Scholarship Fund, which is endowed with a personal donation from the designer and matching funds from his partners Evian, Farfetch, Louis Vuitton and New Guards Group. The sum will provide scholarships to between 100 and 200 students of academic promise of Black, African American, or African descent.

“I was a student on a campus that was largely not as diverse as the world is. And it4s important to set up this foundation specifically for Black students who may feel like in the industry of fashion, they don4t see many people that they can identify with,” he added. Continue reading →

CHANEL ROCK COLLECTION

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Which makes it all the more surprising that Viard emerged from lockdown with a couture lineup so unapologetically maximalist, it could have walked straight off an Eighties runway. Party dresses, bling and Marie-Antoinette shoes were just some of the ingredients of her presentation during the online edition of Paris Couture Week

“It’s an eccentric girl with a touch of the Eighties. I wanted something joyful,” the designer said in a preview last week, as photographer Mikael Jansson shot models Adut Akech and Rianne Van Rompaey in an adjoining studio for the show video: a one-minute, 22-second burst of images spliced with grainy black-and-white footage.

There was a historical feel to the ample skirts, including what would have been the traditional finale dress: a bucolic bridal creation with a pannier-width skirt and blousy sleeves, and a front panel covered in dozens of tiny pleated bibs.

Heavy, flower-shaped gold brooches set with diamanté and semi-precious stones sprouted from a collarless gray and white tweed jacket flecked with gold – the fruit of a collaboration between embroiderer Lesage and jeweler Goossens. Continue reading →