GUCCI THE CLUBBING IS BACK
FASHION MERCATO 2025
As rumor mongers and industry observers speculated Thursday about Sabato De Sarno’s potential successor at Gucci, is it Kim? Is it Hedi? Is it Maria Grazia?
Kering shares rose 5.1% to 251.90 euros as the stock market reacted to the news about the Prince of Venice. Some analysts were surprised, others less so, that Gucci decided to end its collaboration with its creative director less than three weeks before its fall 2025 show in Milan, specifying that the show would be presented by the brand’s design team.
The statement simply said that the new creative direction would be announced in due course. Sarno’s departure has fueled speculation that Hedi Slimane has reportedly bought an apartment in Milan since leaving Celine last year.
In addition to Dario Vitale, who left his position as Miu Miu’s ready-to-wear design director in late January, Versace is also said to be interested in him. Maria Grazia Chiuri is also reportedly a potential candidate to succeed De Sarno, who is returning to Giorgia Meloni’s homeland.
JIL SANDER 2026
Serge Brunschwig has left LVMH, the intellectual and affable French executive. He made the announcement on his LinkedIn account, with a message beginning: ‘Au revoir hashtag#LVMH’. Then #bonjour CEO of Jil Sander and OTB Group. Humour that will not have escaped the lord.
He would succeed Luca Lo Curzio, who left Jil Sander in November. Brunschwig is also expected to be appointed Chief Strategy Officer of OTB Group, parent company of Jil Sander, reporting to Ubaldo Minelli, CEO of the Italian fashion company.
The French-born Minelli spent three decades at LVMH as CEO of Fendi, where he was replaced by Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou in June 2024. At the time, LVMH spokespeople explained that he was ‘pursuing another mission within the group’. Promises are only binding on those who listen to them.
COMME DES GARÇONS 2025
META RAY-BAN GLASSES

DUA LIPA POLYCHROME LIPSTICK
Dua Lipa is the new face of Chanel! The ‘Houdini’ singer, who attended the brand’s haute couture show on Tuesday in a long black cape, is the star of the new campaign for the 25 handbag, and it promises to be as catchy as one of her favourite songs.
For her video, Lipa arrives at a New York studio for a photo shoot. As she posed with the 25 bag in various outfits, she sang the 80s hit ‘She Drives Me Crazy’ by the Fine Young Cannibals.
Chanel was due to unveil the film on its social media platforms on Friday, ahead of the official launch in March.Chanel’s relationship with Lipa began in 2019, when she performed at the opening of the Mademoiselle Privé exhibition in Shanghai.
KIM JONES RETIREMENT
Kim Jones has decided to leave his position as artistic director of men’s collections after seven-year run. The development is sure to further fuel speculation that Loewe fashion star Jonathan Anderson may soon be installed at Dior. Dior needs newness to recapture clients attention.
The luxury industry is all about creativity, product appeal and desirability . “There is a reason why creative directors are paid what they are.”
The British designer‘s resignation came one week after he paraded Dior’s fall 2025 menswear on a minimalist set of grand, white staircases and was decorated as a Knight of the Legion of Honor, France’s highest civilian decoration by the Wintour ! don’t understand by Anna a american lady. Jones and the next goal Chanel why not…
ARMANI THE OLD MAN AND THE SEE
As he marked the 20th anniversary of his latest Privé couture collection in Paris on Tuesday night, Giorgio Armani emphasized once again how the “linear elegance of Japan” has influenced his designs, in addition to the “shapes and colors of China”, the opulence of India, the decorum of North Africa and the landscapes of Polynesia. Continue reading
ELIE SAAB 2025
ROLLAND AND BAKER
While Stephane Rolland has committed to Operation Pièces Jaunes, the designer pays tribute to singing icon Joséphine Baker in a powerful and sensual collection. Continue reading
DGENA MOUCLIER

KERING & BURBERRY
Kering is reportedly in negotiations with Burberry. A return to grace in the house of Stella McCartney, which has just bought its shares from LVMH. Kering seems to want to relaunch the purchase of brands and the competition with its historic rival. Kering is looking to strengthen its presence in different luxury segments. Burberry, with its British heritage, its expertise in ready-to-wear and trench coats, could complement Kering’s current offering, which is already strong in fashion brands (Gucci, Saint-Laurent, Balenciaga, Creed, Alexander McQueen), and thus complete its presence in British luxury.
Although smaller, Stella McCartney’s brand embodies modern and minimalist luxury, with strong growth potential, particularly in the women’s fashion and accessories segment. Kering could see in it an opportunity to rejuvenate its portfolio and reach younger clients.
DIOR A COURT DRESS
Iroquois haircuts, also known as Mohawk, are a bold and distinctive hairstyle. ‘Yes, it’s a cross between a punk and a monk disguised as a hedgehog, the Iroquois, this haircut could have been a symbol of war status, a message to the Lord of luxury the big Bernard, perhaps!
But these dresses are to be found in the collections of many museums around the world. They have a specific name, they were called court dresses, or corpse dresses, according to the ceremonial dress of the European courts of the 18th century, they symbolised social rank, wealth and power, and that hasn’t changed much.
It was Louis XIV, the Sun King, who contributed to its design around 1680. It consisted of a rigid whalebone bodice laced at the back, a crinoline skirt and separate sleeves. It also included a train worn either at the waist or falling from the shoulders, but the Maria prefers without a train to admire the world origin of ‘courbet’, a visit under the girls’ dresses, a must.
JACQUEMUS THE DIVINE FINGER

RICK OWENS QUAY OF THE MISTS

KIM JONES
Kim Jones, under a black tent, like the sadness of the world, with a white staircase as a backdrop, Potemkin staircase style, a stripped-down décor to better highlight the fabrics and the construction of the fundamentals that distinguish the luxury of clothes as opposed to those of Zara. From a distance, looks are uncluttered, monochrome, sober at first glance, like this monastic black coat worn with a Yamamoto-style long skirt – the Catholicism is back. But if you zoomed in on the details, which even the front row had trouble seeing, you could spot details like these glass beads scattered like raindrops on the shoulders of a navy blue suit, the tears of luxury perhaps!
Diving into the archives makes sense at a time when many designers are redoubling their efforts to win back luxury consumers disappointed by the poverty of creations, because high-end basics ranging from €800 t-shirts to €4,500 coats are no longer in vogue, and at these prices, they’d better please. That’s probably why the more streamlined designs are given a touch of originality, often drawn from the women’s fashion lexicon of the old haute couture school.
In the 18th century, it was not uncommon to see fashionable men wearing brightly coloured silk damask coats. Jones revitalized this idea with belted kimono jackets and a pink satin robe embroidered with a motif borrowed at the Pondicherry dress from Christian Dior collection 1948.
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MARIA NO COUNTRY FOR OLD LADIES
Even if the lord forbids his employees to speak to certain press organs, information continues to leak like the waters of Lake Victoria Falls. Information swells like a balloon. Maria Grazia is allegedly in trouble with the group, and her replacement is obviously imminent. After almost 10 years of reinterpretation, no one can take her seriously any more, such is her commitment to the subtle feminine poetry of the house.
She never had the thrill that art provokes in a creator, the emotion of the found subject, and of the scene that takes shape in the intoxication of creation, with a flat encephalogram of originality. A victimized, conflicted feminist who believes that men dominate women, but where would she get such an idea, knowing only nymphs?
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ARMANI SEDUCTIVE SHOW
Giorgio Armani titled his collection “Seductive” with soft fabrics galore, including crushed velvet for pants, metallic touches in knits and generous animal prints on shoes, and little fur jackets.
The result was a strong and convincing show, perhaps a little flashier than usual, but proof that the master of Milanese fashion still has guts and new things to say at 90.
VUITTON HOMME 2025 AND GOOFI
Pharrell Williams, standing next to his longtime friend Nigo, two of the most influential tastemakers in streetwear, from the launch of their Billionaire Boys Club brand to their first eyewear design for Vuitton in 2004, to ongoing projects such as Nigo’s Human Made brand and Williams’ auction platform Joopiter, nigo and Williams to destroy Louis Vuitton.
Only at the top of the Louvre’s luxury pyramid, Nigo, “who means Goofi” in French, 54, took over the helm of Kenzo in 2021, and Williams, 51, was named artistic director of menswear at Vuitton in 2023, both young designers.
The collection they unveiled Tuesday in a mirror box in the courtyard of the Louvre, through a clothing vault filled with archive models, for a collection sprinkled with references and winks to the past, for a Vuitton men’s fashion that has no history!
A study varsity jacket that Williams never made, cherry blossom pink and leopard-print jeans, Williams’ bubblegum aesthetic, pink and the new black.
ZEGNA 2025
