A Mc QUEEN MEN’S 2022

Sarah Burton took the Romantic poet, painter and printmaker William Blake as her inspiration this season, filling the collection with ruffles, shredded tulle and pastel prints inspired by the artist’s work.

The designer said she wanted to “draw on the concept of imagination as a pure form of escapism,” and said the collection was based around lightness, air and water, “and on beauty emerging from darkness.”

Her man has rarely had such feminine flair, what with the single, asymmetric ruffle tumbling down the front of a printed cotton blouse; the long skirts with frills made from shredded tulle, and the tuxedo jackets with shoulders that looked as if they’d been slashed by a swashbuckler’s sword.

KRIS WU INFLUENCESEX

Several brands, including Louis Vuitton, Bulgari and Porsche, have cut ties with top Chinese Canadian singer-actor Kris Wu as controversial claims surrounding his personal life emerged on Chinese social media over the weekend. A young woman who said she’d dated the pop star accused him of targeting young and sometimes underage females for sex. Continue reading

TRACY MAKEUP ARTIST

Eyes dressed up in colorful hues had a moment during the recent winter 2021 couture season. For Armani Privé Couture, Linda Cantello swathed models’ eyelids in an eggshell blue.

To conjure up ideas for the beauty look for Alexis Mabille’s couture presentation, the designer presented makeup artist Lloyd Simmonds the clothes and set for the video and photos.

“My first reaction was that I needed to create something graphic and sharp to unify the different geometries of the clothes,” said Simmonds. “Secondly, I needed to use color in a simple way to intensify each girl in the brightly colored background.

Peepers popped at other brands’ displays this season, too, such as Off-White, Schiaparelli, RVDK Ronald Van Der Kemp and Viktor & Rolf. Continue reading

VALENTINO 2022

Fashion is not art,” believes Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli. “Fashion always has a practical scope while art is an end in itself.” Ateliers couture collection shown in Venice on Thursday, as 22 out of the 82 designs on the runway.

Andrea Respino inspired a stunning intarsia coat almost trompe l’oeil, said Piccioli made of 150 different swatches of fabrics, from satin to taffeta, laminated and sequined. One could catch glimpses of the painting on the front of the garment, while the back was conceived with the help of Respino, responding with his own creativity to the design.

Another standout was a long, glittering sequined slipdress worn under a floor-length, taffeta bouillonné cape with a pattern reminiscent of poetic images of the moon reflected on a lake by Chinese art curator and photographer Rui Wu.

Fashion and art are creative practices that respond to different purposes one linked to the body and movement, the other completely free from constraints of sorts which nevertheless find a conjunction in the atelier: the place of making, of thinking with the hands, of translating a desire, an idea, a sensation into a tangible object. Continue reading

PHOEBE PHILO AND THE LORD

Phoebe Philo is returning to fashion with an independent, namesake house and with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton as a investor.

The acclaimed British designer would create clothing and accessories "rooted in exceptional quality and design," and would divulge more details about her new brand in January 2022.

With a powerful silent partner LVMH. I have greatly appreciated discussing new ideas with Bernard Arnault and Delphine Arnault and I am delighted to be embarking on this adventure with their support.

The designer has been keeping a low profile since exiting Celine at the end of 2017. In one of her first public projects, she signed on to be a juror for the 2021 ANDAM awards, which were presented in Paris earlier this month.

It is unusual, though not unprecedented, for LVMH to back a new brand. Its core expertise lies in animating heritage brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior and Fendi with buzzy designers, celebrity ambassadors, retail razzmatazz and spectacular press and client events. Continue reading

BALENCIAGA 2022

Fifty-three years have passed since cristóbal balenciaga closed the doors of his house, largely due to the birth of ready-to-wear, which questioned the raison d’être for the concept of haute couture.

over half a century later i see it as my creative obligation to the unique heritage of m. balenciaga to bring the couture back to his house. it is the very foundation of this century-old maison.

couture is above trends, fashion, and industrial dressmaking. it is a timeless and pure expression of craft and the architecture of silhouette that gives a wearer the strongest notion of elegance and sophistication.

couture is the highest level of garment construction, that is not only relevant in today’s mass-productive industry, but even absolutely necessary for the survival and further evolution of modern fashion design.

FRANCK SORBIER 2022

The title sounds like a philosophical fable, a dreamlike tale, a belief shared by believers from all walks of life. But he speaks, above all, despite his backward references, of an increasingly hot topicality on the subject of wealth and poverty.

Some time ago, the magazine « L’Histoire » had the headline « The Rich and the Poor, 1000 years of inequality ». Far from me the idea of any morality or a trial of intent. I must admit that I had a lot of trouble choosing the direction of this collection. To be honest, I didn’t want to choose and each character finally found its place.` The Servant, the Ferryman and the Relic.

The Servant embodies a girl of the woods, glades and ponds. A peasant woman who evolves in a bucolic universe which translates my desire for stripping back.

Jean-Jacques Rousseau, who has never left my thoughts, is once again present in Ermenonville, not far from Chaalis. He will live there for the last ten years of his life. Here, he is at the heart of his deep convictions, those related to nature. Continue reading

NAJIB ALIOUA ORIENT EXPRESS

Najib Alioua invites us aboard the Orient Express for his Fall Winter 2021-2022 Couture collection. A luxurious, refined, chic and elegant setting, just like its collection: Calais Solstiss lace, handmade embroidery, corolla sleeves, cotton velvet, tweed and leg-of-mutton sleeves, these are the ingredients that have given life to the dresses. trapeze, coat and other pantsuits.  Continue reading

GEHRY AND VUITTON NEW FRAGRANCE

Louis Vuitton and Frank Gehry have teamed up yet again, this time on a new fragrance line, called Les Extraits Collection.

For it, the French luxury goods house’s master perfumer Jacques Cavallier has created a new collection of extracts of perfume, while Gehry conceived a bottle to hold the five different juices. Each flacon comes topped with a three-dimensional, silver-colored sculptural work reminiscent of wind moving through and swirling a silver sheath.

“My ambition was to reinvent the extrait de parfum of the 21st century, bringing newness and new emotions without having any connections with the existing fragrances at Louis Vuitton by breaking the rules,” explained Cavallier, during a press conference held in Paris on Monday.

The fragrances are called Stellar Times, Cosmetic Cloud, Dancing Blossom, Rhapsody and Symphony. Each represents a different major olfactive family and is concentrated at 30 percent.

The fragrance line marks Vuitton’s second collaboration with the legendary architect, who designed the Fondation Vuitton in the Bois de Boulogne in a Paris suburb.

THE POWER OF HAUTE COUTURE

It is like a sun that suddenly breaks through the clouds to reveal a landscape where a city flooded with light in a second transforms everything without changing anything. Haute Couture transforms not reality, but the perception we have of it. At the first show, sometimes, suddenly, it bathes us with an irresistible ray, and with such force, that it makes us irremediably happy like a prick of the happiness needle. And there, apart from all aesthetic considerations, it makes your reality vibrate. This is how beauty and emotion come together in the evidence of a life sublimated by a dress that some people call the “Garment” but, forgive them Lord, they do not know what they are saying.

Beauty is enough to give meaning to this passing life. But, unfortunately, we live in a world where the beautiful and the ugly merge and we do not have the capacity to separate them, because some Men of the Court, who constitute it, wish to draw some substances that life imposes on them just to change their car. Continue reading