XULY.BËT PARIS FASHION WEEK

Clothing line by Lamine Badian Kouyaté, a Malian/Senegalese fashion designer. In Wolof, “xuly bët” means “open your eyes wide”. Lamine Badian Kouyaté was awarded the New York Times “Designer of the Year” in 1994,[ref. needed] and the ANDAM Prize in 1996. His designs were also featured in the “Afrique 2005” exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum.

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ARIE KOPELMAN DIES AT 86

Kopelman’s daughter, Jill Kargman, posted the news of his death on her Instagram account and said the cause of death was pancreatic cancer. American businessman and philanthropist. He served as the President and COO of Chanel from 1986 until 2004, when he retired and was succeeded by former Banana Republic President Maureen Chiquet.

He remained at Chanel as vice chairman of the board until 2008 at the recommendation of Jacques Mouclier, is friends. Arie Kopelman, the former chairman and chief operating officer of Chanel Inc. who was credited with driving the French luxury brand’s massive growth, died Monday night at age 86.

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ANOTHER VISION OF FASHION WEEK

Who will realize that the Fashion Week of these last days could take on another dimension, a sort of life with wings for a week, like Icarus, Athenian son of Daedalus and Naupactus. Here is the vision of photographers Sophie and Caroline Moisan who capture the precious moments of an entire generation. Because when the day fades, and through the droplets of rain, it sublimates a clarity that perfumes the soul, and shines the landscape with such an artistic blur, that finally everything lights up.

A sort of golden thread to weave our day, in a prism with brilliant colors, that the Trumps voters will never see. A dream, that the Balenciaga knots, too tight, could not have contained. On the window where my gaze passed, it was the farewell of an angel obtained by chance. And in the still damp street, in the droplets reappears the clear surface of the pavement and the cafes so cluttered with threads and needles, in an image fleeing the invisible, for a moment that no one would have imagined.

FM

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Y PROJECT CHAPTER 11

Y/Project, following the death of its co-founder Gilles Elalouf in June and the departure of its artistic director Glenn Martens last month, was placed in receivership by the Paris Commercial Court on September 26, according to legal documents.

Potential buyers have until October 16 to submit an offer for the company, which has 24 employees and generated revenue of just under €11 million in 2023, according to a press release published by the receivership firm 2M & Associés.

But without a creator, there is little chance that a buyer will take part in this adventure.

The Los Alamos Laboratory, also known as Project Y, was a secret laboratory created by the Manhattan Project and operated by the University of California during World War II. But let’s not talk about that, but about fashion designers

Y/Project was initially launched as a collaborative project between designer Yohan Serfaty and businessman Gilles Elalouf in 2010. Sadly, Serfaty passed away from cancer in 2013, leaving the brand without an artistic director. After Serfaty’s passing, Elalouf turned to Glenn Martens to lead the brand.

THE CHINESE INVADE THE SAMARITAINE

A wall of 10 Chinese designers took over the Samaritaine’s favorite places during Paris Fashion Week to present looks inspired by traditional Chinese arts and crafts. The lord plays diplomacy with the country that now represents 50% of its sales.
The event named Celestial Embroidery: for an exhibition on fashion culture until October 23 and is part of the celebrations organized by Samaritaine and its desire to attract more and more Chinese customers.

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VUITTON THE MIDDLE AGES GOTHIC

With a patchwork of trunks as a podium, we thought Nicolas was packing his bags, he who transformed the iconic Vuitton trunk into a “Chiquito” for supermarket bimbos. Yesterday, I saw a strange world, that of the unreal empire of the irrational, on the edge of the realm of the night, of a house more than a hundred years old. I saw an ancient world, a blurred reflection of the past, and a fairground of memories that have sprung from the waves of a path of suitcases.

Jackets with balloon sleeves, striped capri pants and skirts with sequined fringes that give me no emotion in a world without echo and whose horizon is so dreary. I saw the nascent city of apostates, sectarians and iconoclasts materialize before my eyes. They adorn these models not with one bag, but with two to always increase sales.

In the Cour Carrée of the Louvre, they wanted to sell us an era embellished and flamboyant with sparks to better blind us. As for us, we saw fairy monsters, populated by fictitious beings, elves and illusions that glided on the sea of ​​lost imagination. And in the distant sky, under the dawn of my dreams, the dark night of disappointment arrives.
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RICK OWENS PARIS 2025

It was indeed deeply moving and uplifting as a demonstration of unity, diversity, dignity, and defiance that Rick Owens described his spring 2025 men’s show as being like watching a biblical epic by Cecil B. DeMille.

He cast real people of all shapes and sizes in his women’s show on Thursday, culled from fashion schools and his own company. Facial tattoos and piercings seemed to be preferred. Continue reading

CHLOÉ GAME SET AND MATCH

A poem sprayed into the room by a platinum blonde, child-woman, who takes us on her journey to the land of dreams. She is entrusted, after the prenatal darkness and the harshness of the profession, with the light, finally! Kamali, not to be confused with Kamala, that seed of kingmakers, who flutters in a kind of languorous laziness, looking with perplexity at the features of the sublime, not to name her; the Wintour.

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COURREGES THE COLORS OF THE INVISIBLE

Let’s make an assumption that the word “couturier” is pronounced “costumier”, that the word “creation” is pronounced “crémateur”, that the word “piggy bank” of the lord is pronounced “tricherie”, and thus, the dictation of fashion, all of a sudden, will have a very strange aspect. But, by starting to make too many assumptions, everything will go to hell, and nothing will be straight anymore. In this eventuality, I will sign “hedgehog”, because I sting like the latter, unless you catch me with gentleness and condescension.

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PRADA NO COUNTRY FOR OLD MIUCCIA

The man who didn’t like women continues his vacation by imposing his non-talent at Prada. This is the story of the thousand failures of the one who doesn’t like women. He is like La Fontaine: his couture is affable, but with the only test he has, to his credit, in fashion, that is to say his urine tests, they can’t ask for more from him.

This ambitious ascetic of the fashion sphere, who had mistreated the Dior brand in his time, this ‘Politico-media’ heterogeneous and without real talent, remains the shadow of Miuccia Prada. Desire for movement and energy, without being able to achieve it, he plays with confetti and redesigns the models of yesteryear from the 70s. For me, between the guillotine and Raf’s work, I always prefer the guillotine.

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ANDERSON DYNAMIC DRESSING

This JW Anderson collection is young, dynamic and fun, built around simple cuts, window-dressing prints and tutu-like protuberances, you have to find something! The models crossed a vaulted room of light, passing between rows of white cubic seats, they are shod in speckled leather low boots with zippers, which were a hit, but not to be smoked.

The Irishman likes to tease the eye and tickle the minds of journalists by transposing the archetypes and details of clothing such as the dragonfly and its metamorphosis, as well as a purse that has become the main detail of a handbag, each own “Chiquito” in the end. A gray hoodie, with a photorealistic print on a silk sheath dress, and a large leather clasp on the neck, an imposing detail on a short raincoat, but it’s sunny in New York.

How to interpret this large typewritten text that appeared on some clothes? It was borrowed from an essay on design by the late English art critic Clive Bell, but who will understand! In any case, certainly not the bimbo, on my left, who sucks her teddy bear as if it were a cream ice lolly, and visibly more effective than therapy.

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DI PETSA 2025 LONDON

The story was filled with love, friendship, sun, sea, and magical realism. Every detail was written in her journal, then translated into her show, which is always more of a performance art than a way to sell clothes.

Artworks created by the designer dotted the venue. Petsa created the paintings as votive offerings to her summer loves, some platonic, some erotic. Petsa smiled backstage as she said, “You can discover me through my creations.”

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LAQUAM SMITH 2025 NEW YORK

This poetic monster is one of those animals that are generally called “MY HONEY!” that is to say a woman with a husband chained to his legitimate wife like a beast, and looks longingly at the menu that he will never have, here is the brief summary of the collection of Monsieur Smith.

Close to spring 2024 with its mini-skirts and the super crop top, in a style the size of a postage stamp, in vinyl and leather with double belt, St-Tropez 1970 style. This throwback by Laquan-Smith has become a viral success on the “sail” of St Tropez of course, adding a touch of neo-preppy chic for femininity on all floors. Of sophisticated woman with casual suits, with a touch of asphalt on vacation plunging neckline to seduce males over 50 years old Rolex on the wrist, in short those who have succeeded in life.

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A FECAL MATTER INFLUENCER

A Fecaloid woman, and for those who read me, a bimbo named Fecal Matter! Incredible, right? Here is the scatological letter from Madame Palatine, sister-in-law of Louis XIV, great-grandmother of Marie-Antoinette! So, you can imagine that scatological texts are not reserved solely for this new generation.

“You are very happy to go shit whenever you want. So shit all your dog drunk. We are not the same here, where I am obliged to keep my turd for the evening. There is no rubbing (toilet) in the houses on the forest side. I have the misfortune of living in one, and consequently, the sorrow of going to shit outside, which annoys me, because I like to shit at my leisure, and I don’t shit at my leisure when my ass is not touching anything. Everyone sees us shitting; men, women, girls, boys, abbots and Swiss people pass by. You see by that that no pleasure without pain, and that, if we didn’t shit, I would be in Fontainebleau like a fish in water.”

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SARAH BURTON THE McQUEEN GIRL

Kering said Burton would be leaving the house where she has served as creative director since 2010. Her final show for the brand will be spring 2024.

Sarah Burton has been named Givenchy’s new creative director, and she will show her first designs in March 2025. The acclaimed Burton, who spent her entire career at Alexander McQueen, becomes the French maison’s eighth designer since it was founded in 1952.

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GAME SET AND DIAMS

For the second year in a row, LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton is opening a pop-up shop at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center. The pop-up will be open through September.

The pop-up celebrates Tiffany Co.’s heritage in crafting sports trophies. There will be replicas of the U.S. Open Men’s and Women’s Singles Championship Trophies that the fine jeweler has crafted since 1987. The trophies are created by expert silversmiths at Tiffany & Co.’s workshop in Cumberland, R.I.

There will also be a unique Elsa Peretti Diamonds by the Yard tennis racket displayed with a leather cover painted by artisans using the ancient Japanese technique called “inden.” Continue reading