HAIDER ACKERMAN AND JEAN PIPOL

Haider Ackermann still remembers its sublime chic. Or how they can take a blind designer hostage .

Gaultier remembers reading in Le Figaro about a hot new Belgian designer named Haider and being dazzled by his sophisticated colors and unexpected silhouettes, finally someone else to copy.

Seated opposite each other on black sofas in Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture salon designed by Philippe Starck, the two men shared a laugh for the photos. Ackermann put in a plug for Marina Yee, one of the lesser-known of the Antwerp Six that put the small Belgian city on the international fashion radar in fashion.

For his part, Ackermann said Gaultier opened his mind also because he pushed the envelop in culture and society. Not open only the mind blows me my assistant !

RENATO BALESTRA PASSED AWAY

Renato Balestra, the dean of Italian couture, died in Rome on Saturday, age 98. After an apprenticeship with Jole Veneziani in 1959, he opened his first atelier in Rome, where the company is still based today.

Having come from a family of architects and engineers, he stood out for his artistic ability and was considered the “painter of fashion.” Known for his signature painterly embroidery and blend of fabrics and transparencies, his name was associated with a distinctive color Balestra blue.

Balestra designed exclusive collections for Isetan in Tokyo as well as Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Foley’s, Neiman Marcus and Lord Taylor. In 1970, he included men’s looks in a women’s fashion show a pioneer in creating unisex collections on coed catwalks.

His brand was relaunched earlier this year with a new course set by his granddaughter, Sofia Bertolli Balestra, with a first ready-to-wear collection presented in February during Milan Fashion Week. Renamed simply Balestra, the logo revisits the hand-drawn version designed by the founder in 1971 and appears in his signature color.

The brand remains privately owned by the family, with the founder’s daughters Fabiana Sofia’s mother and Federica Balestra at the head of the fashion house.”

FM

AVATAR ZOE IN FASHION

She is probably best known for “Avatar,” the James Cameron epic that became the biggest movie of all time in 2009. But she’s also part of “Avengers” and “Star Trek”. She has become one of the highest-grossing actresses in today’s movies.

It’s naturally an entirely different world 13 years after the first “Avatar” movie was released, and the moment of course leads to reflection on how Saldaña’s life and career have changed in that time.

At a certain point, even being an action star begins to feel like riding a bicycle, and Saldaña is now in her moment of seeking out discomfort. Whjy not Fashion ?

Monot’s polyester dress. Boucheron Maillons necklace, from Paris, Vu du 26 high jewelry collection, set with quartz, pavéd with diamonds, on yellow gold; Vendorafa 18-karat yellow gold dome ring; Bulgari Serpenti Viper ring in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; David Yurman ring in 18k yellow gold with pavé diamonds; Anita Ko gold ring; Delfina Delettrez 18k gold, white diamond and akoya pearl ring; Hamilton Jewelers 18k rose gold ring; Saldaña’s own gold ring, worn throughout. Continue reading

FASHION UNDER COVER

Between the official sponsors of the soccer world cup and the vertigo of endless wealth,  they are torn between their will to shine without alienating dictatorships, with the risk of scratching their image by associating themselves with a world cup truly tainted with accusations that hint at the trampling of Human Rights. But, in the world of fashion, we are used to these counterfeit humans, and they perform daily a balancing act so perfect.

RICHEMOND AND THE LORD

The answer is hard to determine, say principals at Compagnie Financière Richemont. Consumer behavior is still impacted by COVID-19, China remains volatile, and U.S. growth is slowing.  Are storm clouds gathering over luxury?

The demand for high-end watches, jewelry, and accessories remains robust, resulting in solid results for the first half of the fiscal year. Richemont’s sales increased 24 percent to 9.68 billion euros at actual exchange rates, and its profit from continuing operations increased 40 percent to 2.11 billion euros.

On Friday, Richemont’s shares surged more than 10 percent to close at 118.10 Swiss francs.One thing is certain: COVID-19 continues to change consumption patterns worldwide, for better and for worse. Richemont managers discussed volatility and a lack of visibility in the market.

In fact, Richemont says consumption patterns have changed so dramatically since COVID-19 that no single geography is driving revenue or dominating the balance sheet. Continue reading

UOTANI TIME TO GO

Shiseido’s president and CEO Masahiko Uotani announced succession plans on Thursday that will see him step down within two years. As of Jan. 1, Uotami’s role will change to representative director, chairman and CEO, while Kentaro Fujiwara will assume the position of president and chief operating officer.

“Fujiwara and I will work closely together for two years managing the company jointly, and then we will see what happens after that. I don’t want to just pass the baton on suddenly,” Uotani said. 

Shiseido’s business grew 19 percent on a like-for-like basis in 2021, despite continued lockdowns in China. The growth of the business in China has been a cornerstone of Uotani’s globalization strategy. Continue reading

MUGLER IN SELFRIDGES

With Body Spaces, French luxury brand Mugler will take over Selfridges Corner Shop until December. The brand’s fall 2022 and spring 2023 collections, along with festive gifts, will be featured in the space, along with its signature scents Angel, Alien and Alien Goddess.

In partnership with Random Studio, The Corner Shop features reflective silver surface sculptures depicting the contours of the human body. The brand has never set up an immersive pop-up before. It’s a unique approach that is accompanied by a strong architectural gesture.

Chrome hues will be available in a limited number of fragrances. Mugler is offering 30 hand-blown, hand-sculpted bottle variations of Angel, one of Mugler’s bestselling fragrances.

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FRANCOIS BAUFUMÉ PASSED AWAY

French fashion executive François Baufumé the Kenzo and Christian Dior Couture businesses in the 80 and & 90 died suddenly on Friday in Saint-Jean-de-Luz at age 77.

Services are scheduled for Wednesday in Urrugne, France, according to a family announcement signed by his two daughters. He was a visionary, who recently stepped down as president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

A great and bold entrepreneur, an outstanding executive and a charismatic leader, and despite his famous temper tantrums, he was a very warm and endearing character who knew how to enjoy life.

He built Kenzo into a fashion and perfume company with combined sales of roughly $150 million by 1992, extending the brand into menswear, jeans and childrenswear, and opening many key boutiques.

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TOM CATCH ME IF YOU CAN KERING

A deal to buy U.S. fashion brand Tom Ford from the American designer is said to be in advanced stages between Kering, the French luxury giant that owns Gucci. Estée Lauder, who is also rumored to be in the running to secure Tom Ford, is in a close race with Kering for Tom Ford.

 A deal could be reached as soon as next week, according to sources. As of now, François-Henri Pinault’s luxury giant has yet to confirm any deal.

It will be the largest acquisition ever made 3 billion  of dollard,  it is possible that the price has fallen, given today’s precarious market environment and current geopolitical crisis, which has led to almost unprecedented inflationary pressures and dramatically increased procurement costs around the world.

However, Kering has been able to ride a sort of post-pandemic surge in sales, particularly across its Gucci, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga brands, as wealthy customers wanted revenge and a return to normality; those who have shown themselves to be more resilient, despite the exponential rise in inflation, and continue to purchase expensive clothes, bags, and watches.
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