RITZ AND CHANEL SIDE BY SIDE

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François Perret, head pastry chef at the Ritz Paris, is opening a street-facing shop to make his sweet treats available to a wider audience. The star Perret of the Netflix series “The Chef in a Truck,” is bringing his sweet treats to a wider audience with the opening of a street-facing pastry shop at the Ritz hotel in Paris next month.

Wearing a white chef’s jacket and a surgical face mask, as he surveyed construction work at Ritz Paris Le Comptoir, the gourmet boutique with a white-and-peach interior that is due to open its doors on June 7 at 38 Rue Cambon, a stone’s throw from the historic Chanel flagship. Continue reading →

CHINESE SOON MASTER OF THE LUXE

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Fosun Fashion Group, the Chinese owner of Lanvin, Wolford, St. John and Caruso, has formed a strategic alliance with e-commerce firm Baozun, Activation Group and other industry players to strengthen its ability to capture China’s fast-growing demand for luxury brands.

As a part of the partnership, Baozun and Activation will both become minority shareholders in Fosun Fashion Group, and the preferred partners for all brands in FFG’s portfolio, as well as in exploring new business models and solutions for brand expansion.

Fosun’s unprecedented alliance in China is also a sign of further consolidation in the luxury sector that ‘s been accelerated by the pandemic. Traditional competitors are now joining hands to protect their shared interests.

Last November, Farfetch inked a mega partnership deal with Alibaba and Compagnie Financière Richemont. Kering’s Pinault family is also putting funds into the new luxury retail venture that’s targeting China’s online luxury market. Continue reading →

PANDEMIC AFFECTS PUIG PROFITS IN 2020

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It was the first time in recent history that Puig closed a year with a loss. Due to lockdowns and social distancing, consumption of fragrance, makeup and fashion, but the Spanish family-owned beauty and fashion company expects its business to amp up, and aims for sales to double in three years and triple in five years.

In the 12 months ended Dec. 31, 2020, the Barcelona-based group posted a net loss of 70 million euros, versus a gain of 226 million euros in 2019. Profit before tax came in at minus 72 million euros, against an increase of 304 million euros in the prior year.

There are two big changes in the industry the smartphone revolution and China,” the company’s portfolio has historically been heavily skewed toward fragrance, which is invisible, thus not seen in the ubiquitous online selfie culture, and has grown less quickly than the skin care and makeup categories.

BUILGARI NEW FRAGRANCES

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The Allegra collection of five fragrances comes with Magnifying essences enabling customers to personalize their perfumes. Bulgari Taps Into the Customization Trend With New Fragrances

Long gone are the days when Bulgari hosted lavish parties across Italian dreamy destinations and venues. The company’s physical events might be a victim of the pandemic, but the Roman jewelry house instilled its passion for conveying the multiple facets of the Italian lifestyle in its new collection of fragrances, called Allegra or joyous in English.

Allegra can resonate with many types of customers, as it was designed to evoke Italian experiences and emotions via different olfactory families, ranging from floral-oriental scents that for Gonzalez Sebastiani could appeal to European and Middle Eastern clients, to citrusy fragrances that could work best for the Chinese and American clientele. Continue reading →

FASHION MERCATO 2021

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Designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista who brought a sophisticated and artistic touch to Kenzo over a two-year stint is to step down from his role of artistic director, and his exit from the Paris-based fashion house, will take effect on June 30 when his employment contract will arrive at its term.

Sylvie Colin, chief executive officer of Kenzo, expressed her gratitude to the designer “for his talent, creativity and contribution to the artistic development of our house.”

It is understood a successor will be named in due course, and that the brand is likely to pursue a new direction.

Oliveira Baptista was partial to enveloping, nomadic silhouettes, and had returned the brand to the women’s calendar of Paris Fashion Week. His tenure coincided with the death last October of founder Kenzo Takada, due to complications from COVID-19, and he let color, pattern and energy erupt on the runway for fall 2021 as an ode to the Japanese fashion maverick. Continue reading →

ALBER ELBAZ DIES AT 59

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His death, due to COVID-19, was confirmed by Compagnie Financière Richemont, his joint venture partner in AZ Factory, his latest fashion venture.

Alber had a richly deserved reputation as one of the industry's brightest and most beloved figures. I was always taken by his intelligence, sensitivity, generosity and unbridled creativity," Rupert said. "He was a man of exceptional warmth and talent, and his singular vision, sense of beauty and empathy leave an indelible impression. Continue reading →

HERMES WHAT ESLE

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The figures add to evidence the luxury sector is on the upswing, Hermès reported that first-quarter revenue jumped 44 percent, at constant rates, beating expectations and fueling optimism for leaders in the sector.

This is a confirmation of a buoyant luxury goods demand environment worldwide, following recent reports from luxury peers LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Kering, as well as an uptick in exports of Swiss watches in March.

Asia was feeling the full brunt of the coronavirus crisis this season last year. But even as the second and third quarters bring tougher comparisons in Asia, they will become less challenging in Europe and the Americas where business declined at a later stage last year. Continue reading →

MY FAVORITE DESIGNER

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Brunello Cucinelli has long spoken of his admiration for Amazon founder Jeff Bezos, who he has hosted on several occasions to talk about humanity and the future. But who does he admire among his fellow designers?

My favorite designers,  Ralph Lauren , Giorgio Armani and Yohji Yamamoto.

Ralph Lauren tops the list, "a great master, who has created a visual merchandising unique in the world, Cucinelli said of the American designer, whom he met in 2019. He has always been a true, great inspiration for me,Cucinelli said.

Cucinelli described Giorgio Armani as "a genius," and also pointed to Yohji Yamamoto and "his shapes that are the most fascinating that I have ever known," and Chanel.

"You create style through ready-to-wear," continued Cucinelli, whose business mainly relies on apparel, "and I have been inspired by the big names that have a recognizable taste that lasts in time. [King] Edward VIII believed in a certain pleasure in dressing well, and his taste is still recognizable after so many years. Continue reading →

LVMH, RICHEMONT AND PRADA JOIN FORCES

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Three European rivals are joining forces in an unprecedented collaboration to help consumers trace the provenance and authenticity of luxury goods. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which in 2019 initiated the Aura platform, will be joined by Prada Group and Compagnie Financière Richemont in the Aura Blockchain Consortium, which will promote the use of a single blockchain solution open to all luxury brands worldwide.

Bulgari, Cartier, Hublot, Louis Vuitton and Prada are already keyed into the platform, which will give consumers direct access to a product’s history, proof of ownership, warranty and maintenance record.

According to a joint release revealing the creation of the consortium, it is in advanced discussions with several independent brands, and "brands within founder groups; to join soon since the blockchain offers flexibility to support companies of various sizes and to adapt to individual needs. Continue reading →

KANAE PASSED AWAY

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Kanae Taniwaki is entering the Pantheon of Haute Couture. This man, so discreet, came to France under the impulse of Jacques Mouclier with Kenzo, Issey Miyake, Yijo Yamamoto. He was the eminence grise of Loris Azzaro and was also the best Premier d’Atelier at Franck Sorbier.

Here is the last of the Samurai of Haute Couture who passes away. He knew all the stitches and techniques, and he was a master in the art of converting a fabric into a straight thread for a full bias garment. Like an open book on the past and on the future, he was at the same time breathing humanity. Professor at Esmod International de Haute Couture, the students he had, including my daughter, speak of him with affection and emotion.

When a loved one has just passed away, one feels the loss darkly, but the present death is disconcerting and the stupefaction closes the soul and the mouth. Incredulously at this grief, one looks at the bottom of the grave, without understanding anything, this coffin which is going to vanish under the surface of a world which was for him so poetic. It is to the first sight of his family that the fashion around his last podium will say goodbye. Continue reading →

SHANGHAI INSTITUTE OF VISUAL ARTS

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Founded in September, 2005, Shanghai Institute of Visual Arts is a university offering undergraduate programs distinctive for art nature. Mainly invested by state-owned enterprises,it is also sponsored by other social capital. It was affiliated to Fudan University in its initial stage. After eight years of development, it because independent of Fudan University in April, 2013 with the ratification of the Ministry of Education. Continue reading →

AIR OF TIME BY PUIG

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Nina Ricci Closes Historic Flagship Boutique in Paris, owned by Spanish fragrance and fashion group Puig, the brand is pivoting to a digital-first.

The brand, founded in 1932 and known for its bestselling fragrances, including L’Air du Temps, is expected to launch an e-commerce site this fall. Ricci is carried by around 80 retailers worldwide, including Le Bon Marché, Printemps, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Isetan, Joyce and Lane Crawford. It is also sold online via Net-a-porter, Farfetch and Ssense.

The store, opened in 1979, will be taken over by Paco Rabanne which, like Nina Ricci, belongs to Spanish fragrance and fashion group Puig, the parent company of brands including Carolina Herrera, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries Van Noten and Penhaligon’s.

The boutique at 39 Avenue Montaigne, across the street from Dior, is closed and its windows are covered with stickers bearing the Paco Rabanne logo. Continue reading →

ADDIDAS AND MARVEL

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Adidas just dropped a new sneaker that’s perfect for fans of Marvel Comics. The German sportswear giant has partnered with Marvel to give its ZX 2K Boost shoe a new look by taking inspiration from the iconic comic book character Iron Man and his fictional company Stark Industries.

The look of the Marvel x Adidas ZX 2K Boost “Stark Industries” is executed with a black-based textile upper that’s paired with white panels at the forefoot and heel counter. Adding to the style is the text “Stark Industries” on the lateral side, an orange heel tab, and a full-length Boost midsole. According to the shoe’s product description, glow-in-the-dark details appear on the upper’s overlays and on the outsole reminiscent of Iron Man’s armored suit while the tongue is designed in the shape of his mask. In addition, the sneaker comes packaged with a special box printed with various Marvel comic book characters.

The Marvel x Adidas ZX 2K Boost “Stark Industries” collab is available now at Adidas.com with sizes ranging from a men’s 5 all the way up to a men’s 12. The shoe comes with a $150 price tag.

THE BEAUTY OF THE DEVIL

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Nike may have settled its lawsuit with MSCHF over the collective’s Lil Nas X “Satan Shoes,” but the controversy leaves lots of questions for both brands looking to be more litigious and for resellers.

After being granted a temporary restraining order on April 2 to halt the sale of 666 pairs of the $1,080 “Satan Shoes,” Nike’s settlement calls for MSCHF to initiate a voluntary buyback of the shoes, which were reimagined Nike Air Max 97s that featured an engraved bronze pentagram; the Bible passage Luke 10:18, which details Satan falling from Heaven, and one drop of blood in the sneaker’s air bubble sole that was provided by MSCHF staffers. Continue reading →

ALI BABA AND THE FORTY THIEVES

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Alibaba, China’s biggest e-commerce operator, was fined $2.78 billion, by China’s State Administration for Market Regulation for monopolistic behaviors, China's state media said Saturday morning, and has been ordered to stop its illegal conduct.

The penalty was calculated by deducting 4 percent of the group’s 2019 revenues, which totaled 455.712 billion renminbi. It is one of the largest penalties Chinese regulators have ever issued, exceeding the $975 million antitrust penalty that the Chinese government imposed on American chipmaker Qualcomm in 2015.

In years past, JD.com, a rival of Alibaba, complained of anticompetitive behavior and said brands had been pressured off of their platform by the larger firm. The firm also addressed the larger and growing trend of scrutiny around China’s tech companies. Continue reading →

L’ATELIER DE CHINE

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Here is the most sublime collection of Fashion Week and the theme is Art Nouveau, an artistic style that develops from the late nineteenth century, first in Belgium and then in France. It flourishes in architecture and decorative arts. The search for functionality is one of the concerns of architects and designers. Art Nouveau is characterized by forms inspired by nature, where the curve of nature dominates.

Unlike many other artistic movements, Art Nouveau does not seek to promote a precise system of artistic principles invented by an artist or a group of artists and theorists. The name itself is that of a store in Paris, the Maison de l’Art Nouveau, opened in 1895 by the German art dealer Siegfried Bing. For Bing, as for many of his contemporaries, European civilization was going through a period of great turbulence and was facing unprecedented political, social and technological changes; the world of art and decoration therefore had to respond to the demands of this evolution. Continue reading →

JASON WU 2021

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Purified images of the fading day, where China’s nocturnal resonance fogs, Europeans wake up. Here is the most orderly designer in his vision, he stigmatizes his memories of the landmarks of his life in counterpoint and from Shanghai sends us the image of the Middle Kingdom.

Jason Wu is not to worry about finding explanations for these dreams, he lets his imagination unfold in vision of the premise of the hot summer that is fast approaching. As if the madness of sewing made him shiver, he sews without ever stopping, like a poem on the catwalk, like a spiral that imposes itself over the minutes, like a sovereign evidence of his imagination. Before me floats an image of the universe of Flora, this ancient deity of Rome whose main role was to protect the flowering. Continue reading →

ERMANNO SCERVINO

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“I always wanted to be a stylist” Ermanno once announced. And from a young age, he dreamed of dressing the most beautiful women in the world. This is not a first for us, because we already talked about him in 2010. A collection of ultra-feminine style and the time was to highlight the curves and other feminine attractions, because down the masks, thus throwing the spotlight on dresses guipure for legs as long as compasses.

Guipure from Ireland, Flanders, Le Puy; making guipure for a sublime trench coat, collar, cuffs with lace ruffles, not too young they say, but it is the only material that silk likes for neighbor, and this one comes from China. This static show deserves nothing less than the epithet of Royal, at least for the atmosphere of the almost moving sculptures, of an intense presentation that in terms of eloquence sews to the maturity of a great, from the Huang Mountains. Continue reading →

HERMES ACQUIRES SEARS

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The luxury brand Hermes is set to open in 2023 a large, new store as part of a redevelopment and expansion of a mall in the Los Angeles Valley.

An expansion and redesign of a Westfield mall in the Los Angeles Valley is getting a big boost of luxury with Hermès signing on as its new anchor tenant.

Hermès just leased a 7,500-square-foot space at the Westfield Topanga, taking over a location formerly occupied by Sears, a longtime anchor tenant for malls and shopping centers throughout the country. This will be one of the first instances of a single luxury brand being an anchor tenant in a mall  historically, such a tenant is a department store that is offered a steep discount for a long-term lease. But such stores have been declining in popularity for several years. Continue reading →

CHINA YU PRIZE

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Chen Peng, the designer best known for his outsize down puffer jackets, took home the top award from the Yu Prize, the platform founded by Wendy Yu that seeks out China's best up-and-coming fashion talent.

Chen will receive funding of 1 million renminbi, or $152,000, in addition to a year’s mentoring from OTB Group, retailing at Harrods, and a showcase by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. The inaugural event grew from one prize, as it was originally announced, to four awards that grant the winners a total of 1.5 million renminbi, or $229,000. Continue reading →

SUPERMASK MEDICAL MUSIC

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Music group Black Eyed Peas introduces his newest tech innovation today: Xupermask. Pronounced “supermask,” the product is made in partnership with technology and manufacturing company Honeywell International.

The wearable face technology, launching April 8, is made using medical-grade silicone and an adjustable elastic strap, featuring three dual-speed fans and a Honeywell created filtration system, plus noise-canceling audio, a microphone, a magnetic earbud docking system, Bluetooth connectivity and a seven-hour battery. Produced in two colors and sizes, Xupermask retails for $299 and will be available in the U.S., Canada, the U.K. and E.U. at Xupermask.com.

The product offers newness as consumers adjust to COVID-19, its impact on everyday life today and moving forward. While the price point might prove prohibitive for some, especially when compared to the myriad cloth or Continue reading →

RALPH LAUREN AND SELFRIDGES

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Ralph Lauren Corp., which has been on course to build even stronger digital connections, has made some key changes in its creative department.

Jack Becht, most recently digital fashion director at Selfridges, joined last month as creative director, agency, at Ralph Lauren, overseeing the Polo, Luxury, Lauren, Home and RL content studio divisions.

He reports to Alice Delahunt, chief digital and content officer, who has been with the company for three years, having cut her teeth at Google, Snap Inc. and Burberry, where she worked for six years and rose to global director of digital and social.

Becht has more than 10 years of experience in advertising, branded content and editorial. Prior to his year at Selfridges, he spent three years as creative director at Condé Nast, where he led the Fashion/Luxury group creating advertising and content campaigns for client’s channels, as well as the print, digital and social platforms of Condé Nast’s brand portfolios.