CHLOÉ THE GREAT WHITE WAY

The Chloé fashion show, carried out by its new artistic director, Gabriela Hearst was held on the banks of the Seine at the Port de la Tournelle, next the restaurant the “Cheval Blanc” owned by the Lord of Arnault. Walking down the quay of the Pont de la Cité, the clouds chased by the breeze and cleaned from the rats by the city, for the circumstance, we waited quietly as “baliste” ready to shoot. I see a small swallow twirling back into town, then the noise calms down around us. On the Seine, hardly a wave, and the show begins for Gabriela who is not Mistral, not more Neruda, the educated will understand.

Long and ample silhouettes, dresses in raw silk of cream color, fringed like the Indian “komants” or Comanches, which means “those who always fight”. So the devil is in the details, like these hand-painted glazed ceramic buttons or these laces-fringes, recovered from sneakers, decorated with stones and metal parts, a way to tell us that here we recycle and we take care of the planet. We always recognize the degree of a civilization at the way it does not pollute its environment Continue reading

YVES SAINT FROSTY

Saint Laurent is finally back on the official Paris Fashion Week schedule . The Eiffel Tower is a finger pointing to the sky, a universal beacon to make the group of the Prince of Venice sparkle, it was Tuesday night at the Trocadero. The tower indifferent to the cycles that give rhythm to elegance, this may explain it, standing like a spear it crosses the centuries, a sign certainly for St Laurent.

Frosty glamour is perhaps the best way to describe Vaccarello’s severe, polished brand of chic, this season hinged on mannish, square-shouldered jackets, skimpy disco catsuits and evening gowns and dresses with the shrugged-on ease of a polo shirt.

Big sunglasses, leather gloves and major gold jewelry heightened the 1980s allure and winked to Paloma Picasso, whose theatrical sense of dress a turban and big gemstones here, an austere bustier gown there was said to have inspired house founder Yves Saint Laurent and nudged his creativity out of bourgeois codes. Continue reading

GUCCI THE TWILIGHT ZONE

Vault is a programming tool that allows you to create, manage and store project-specific secrets. Alessandro Michele loves the word so much it’s the name he has given to Gucci’s new online concept store. “It’s such a pregnant word,” he enthuses. “It can be pregnant with everything you know.” He is certainly doing his best to guarantee that Vault arrives with a bellyful of wonders. “An online storage of beautiful things,” he calls it, like a virtual

Vault, which launches Saturday, is described by Gucci as “a time machine, an archive, a library, a laboratory, and a meeting place.” It is also the latest manifestation of Michele’s appetite for experimentation.

A time machine has always been my dream. Not so much for Michele, though he admits he would really love to have “a beautiful dinner or maybe just a quick coffee” with Federico Fellini and Anna Magnani. In fact welcome  to the twilight zone.

FENDI 2022 MILANO

Kim Jones since joining Fendi a year ago has fully embraced the family, the brand’s DNA and its entire heritage, including the rich and unprecedented contribution of the late Karl Lagerfeld, who designed the fur and ready-to-wear for the Roman house. -to -wear for 54 years. Continue reading

INGLOURIOUS MASTAR

The Italians are rebelling, and by not wanting to give in to the group of Lord Arnault, mark a turning point in acquisitions. It would have been brilliant for LVMH, to continue to build progressively its portfolio of high-end wines, which did not yet have any Italian brands worthy of the name. Banfi is a vineyard. “It is known as the hop”, this great wine of Tuscany. An ideal brand for the Lord’s group, associated with a historic castle, the cornerstone of the image of authentic luxury that the group seeks to spread to sell the story of history. Continue reading

IPHONE 13 VENDREDI

The subtle aesthetic changes in Apple’s latest collection of iPhones, iPads and Watch hold no carrot for a fashion set that craves newness.

But the company, which held its virtual “California streaming” product announcement on Tuesday, is betting that its beefy camera upgrades and other under-the-hood improvements will keep its smartphones in high demand. Continue reading

CAROLINA HERRERA 2022

Despite the ridiculous gestures more incongruous than couture, at Carolina Herrera the task does not matter as long as you have drunk. But it is true that with “Gordon who did not invent the Gin”, the creation and the filiform girls follow each other and look alike, these thin as nails, never make me hammer. “My eye is used to seeing beautiful things” he likes to say, he comes from Chicago Illinois, and builds dresses like the buildings of the city of Al Capone. If you attended the last presentation of his collection in New York, we had trouble seeing the beautiful and sublime being non-existent! A color palette of stains and gingham a la Tati, on suits that set the tone of a collection not very shiny.

Far, very far from this young boy so charming who, at the time, gave us his copy without inhibition. We thought then that his age would outweigh his youth to become a real designer, but it is not so. We have before us the finest example of couture cheating, imitation and false art, as well as the triumph of failure, the apotheosis of puffism. Continue reading

FRENCH WORDS

Did you know that onomatopoeia makes words from a sound? Coquelicot, which appeared in the 16th century, is derived from cocorico, because the red flower is reminiscent of a rooster’s crest. Click, which in 1306 meant “to make a dry noise” had disappeared from the French language. It came back in 1980, reported by the English as “To click” to designate the use of the computer mouse. But there are many other terms derived from onomatopoeia such as chuintement, claque, hibou, hiccup or even zézaiement…

Over the course of time, we will also discover that words are sometimes taken from proper names. As early as the 16th century, the “truism”, in other words “an obvious fact that is unnecessarily specified”, was known. It comes from Jacques de la Palissade, who had nothing to do with this posthumous glory. Continue reading

FENTY NAKED AND CULLOTATED

The Lord’s newest recruit, the oh-so-creative Rihanna, is getting ready for her next show. After making men’s and women’s jackets, she’s moved on to lingerie. The muse entrepreneur announced on Thursday that she will present “Savage x Fenty Show Vol. 3” on September 24 on Amazon Prime Video.

Sharing the news on her Instagram with a video of her dressed in various pieces of “Klein blue” lingerie with the caption, “Oh, you think you’re ready?”. Bottle green eyes and breasts at “half mast”, it is said that at the bank in Zurich, the banker asks her: “How much does she want to deposit? Three million,” the Barbadian whispers, not wanting to be noticed. “You can speak up,” the banker replies. “Here in Switzerland, poverty is not a shame.

The fashion show will include a previously unknown “line-up of models, stars and artists”. Past celebrities have included Paris Krypton, Cara Two Lines, Rosalía land, Bella Indead , Demi Maure, Big Sin and Normani, a beautiful blonde who believes that synovial effusion is the son of Sy Novial. Continue reading

A SMILE NAMED DESIRE

For bimbos who look at themselves for hours on end, it’s easy to find flaws that they can focus on with their mono-neurons. Moreover, the selfie has made this practice, which seems to have been initiated by plastic surgeons, more and more common. The myth of Narcissus or the complex of teeth and their alignment are part of these new obsessions of the great horizontals of the planet, and men are not left out. Continue reading

SUPERSTITION MODE

Gabrielle Chanel’s lucky number was five, for Karl Lagerfeld it was seven, and for Riccardo Tisci it is 17. That’s apparently why he puts that number on his T-shirts and at the end of his Instagram handle. This is the tip of the iceberg, because when it comes to superstition in the fashion industry, fortune tellers, fortune tellers, lucky talismans and even shamans have been around for ages. Friday the 13th is still considered a bad luck day.

Irrational beliefs with supernatural influences that would be at the origin of the perfume of the late Alber Elbaz; created in 2017 and named “Superstitious”. Former Dior designer Gianfranco Ferré never included a No. 17 look in his collections. It was always 16 bis, which is also why four-leaf clovers and evil eye motifs became so popular in his jewellery collections.

Superstitions in fashion, say psychologists, are due to a predisposition especially to people in insecure situations. Fashion is an industry that goes through ups and downs; you can be the star of the catwalk one day and totally out of favour the next. Part of the superstition comes from a lack of autonomy and anxiety, and people in the fashion industry think it helps them to choose when to present their collection. Continue reading

FIVE BEACH BOOKS ON PERFUME

Le Dictionnaire Amoureux du Parfum, by Elisabeth de Feydeau

From Adam and Eve to Chanel N°5, from the still to orientalism, the historian Elisabeth de Feydeau, who has already written many books on perfume, wanted to add a novelistic dimension to the words and characters she tells. Historical references and unpublished anecdotes are combined in this book, which reads almost more like a short story than a dictionary.

Editions Plon, 27 €.

Les 5 parfums de notre histoire, by Laure Margerand

No, this is not a book about the five most mythical fragrances, but a novel. An olfactory novel about anosmia and the quest for a taste for life after a family tragedy. Bonus: a bookmark with 6 scents linked to key moments in the story. A card with repositionable stickers designed by Arcade Beauty and put in smell by the perfumer Irène Farmachidi of TechnicoFlor.

Editions J’ai lu, €19.90 Continue reading