GUILLAUME HENRY AT PATOU

Sidney Toledano, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Fashion Group, is spearheading the project and has already selected and signed on a designer to lead it: Guillaume Henry.

Last March, Henry exited Nina Ricci and he is said to be passionate about the legacy of Patou, a French designer who brought modernity and buzz to fashion in the Twenties —and innovated in business with fragrances, logos and sport clothes.

LVMH is now in the throes of building teams around Henry with a view to launching the first collection of ready-to-wear and accessories in the second half of 2019.

It is understood the group views Patou as something of a niche, rarified name and not its next megabrand. Consequently, LVMH will likely start with a single boutique, most likely in Paris, along with e-commerce and select wholesale partners.

The relaunch suggests the world’s largest luxury group is anticipating an easing of the streetwear craze, and a swing of the fashion pendulum back to sophisticated chic. Continue reading

YOHJI DIGITAL WORLD

International fans of the Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto now have a one-stop digital shop for all his goods in the form of “Yohji Yamamoto The Shop”.

While the designer made his products for sale online in a Japanese-language website in July, non-Japanese speakers were left out. On Thursday, the house debuted a global store bringing together products under the designer’s multiple lines.

That includes, Yohji Yamomoto Produce, which reproduces his signature hits; entry-level and web-only brand, S’YTE; the genderless Ground Y line; luxury accessories from discord Yohji Yamamoto; to casual wear offerings Yohji Yamamoto + NOIR, and Y’s. It will also sell LIMI feu, designed by his daughter Limi Yamamoto. Continue reading

SHISEIDO A DIRECTOR OF FRAGRANCE

Japanese cosmetics group Shiseido has recently appointed Isabelle Gex as President of Global Fragrances, a newly created post. She will start in her new role on 11th June.

Before joining Shiseido, Isabelle Gex founded and directed Stratlux, a French company specialised in mentoring start-ups in the fields of luxury, fashion and the arts. Between 2001 and 2017, she worked for the LVMH group, her latest role being Senior Executive Advisor on mergers and acquisitions. She also formerly worked as International Marketing Director Perfumes and Cosmetics at Chanel.

At Shiseido, Isabelle Gex will be in charge of the fragrance licences for Dolce & Gabbana, Narciso Rodriguez, Issey Miyake, Elie Saab, Zadig & Voltaire, Alaïa and Serge Lutens, the only brand which will continue to operate independently. Gex will report to Franck Marilly, the EMEA region’s CEO for Shiseido, and to Masahiko Uotani, the Shiseido group’s CEO, and will also be tasked with seeking external growth opportunities via brand and licence acquisition. She will oversee the Japanese group’s centre of excellence for fragrances, which is located in Paris. Continue reading

FIRST COVER FOR FIRST LADY

In Austria, Brigitte Macron showed once again that she is unafraid to experiment with fashion. Walking through Salzburg with Eveline Steinberger-Kern, wife of the Austrian president, Macron debuted a new red dress by Louis Vuitton, her go-to design house.

Emmanuel Macron was sworn in as France’s youngest ever President at the age of 39 in May, and credits his wife- and former teacher- Brigitte Trogneux (who has taken on his surname since they became France’s first couple) as one of his closest advisors.

Now the 64 year-old has become France’s “First Lady” (although there will be no official title for her) since Nicolas Sarkozy’s wife Carla left the Elysee Palace in 2012 – and she’s showcasing a wardrobe which proves she’s making the role her own. Continue reading

HENNEQUIN SOUL PHOTOGRAPHER

Yesterday I met a human being who was dripping with talent. Although the climb was treacherous to the hill of Saint-Cloud, the view from the top was worth it all.

A true artist from head to toe, he could even be the son of Patrick Demarchelier. His presence was piercing. “I have always been fascinated by the great painters” mused John, who crafts portraits with the grace of the renaissance painters. He interprets the light and the dark, the tonality and the relationships between the colours, the compositions and the general ambience in a way that only he can.

He is the Vermeer of photography. I adore his almost cinematic compositions, the movement in his photos brings the subject matter to life, creating a tangible sense of vulnerability. Continue reading

LOUIS VUITTON ON STRIKE

Leather workers from some of Louis Vuitton’s factory in France staged a strike the first in 15 years. The employees gathered in front of their production facilities between 7:30 and 8:30 a.m. local time to make a statement, one day before the brand’s annual salary negotiations were set to end.

According to a spokesman LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, less than 10 percent of the leather workers from fewer than one-third of the Vuitton ateliers countrywide took part in the demonstration.

French labor unions said the turnout stood at 30 percent of employees in Issoudun and Condé, and more than 50 percent in Asnières, according to press reports. Continue reading

AMAZON TOKYO FASHION WEEK

At Amazon Tokyo Fashion Week, more than 50 designers presented their creations at the Autumn/Winter 2017-18 collections.

Colorful embroidery, creative batik designs and fearless facial jewelry brightened the catwalks where Asian designers presented their collections.

Traditional Indonesian batik material – which applies wax-resistant dyeing to the cloth was the highlight of designer Michelle Tjokrosaputro’s collection, where it featured in vibrant jacket and skirt combinations as well as dresses.

Thai designer Linda Charoenlab added edgy motifs to colorful tartan outfits and complemented the looks with facial jewelry that dangled from models’ ears to their mouths.

CHANEL 2017

This season, Karl Lagerfeld chose to celebrate the French spationaut Thomas Pesquet and invited his guests to take board on the International Space Station. “Fly me to the moon in other Chanel World”

Staged in Grand Palais, the Chanel version of Apollo even appeared to take off at the finale – as booster rockets lifted the 30-meter high structure off the ground, as the rocket retracted into itself.

Karl Lagerfeld stated that “It’s in the spirit of times. Chanel joining a Frenchman in outer space. Besides it’s bound to be better than what we are experiencing down here,”

The runway was amazing as Lagerfeld injected a hipster technological edge into lots of the house’s classics. From the legendary four-pocket suit reimagined in stars-at-night shiny anthracite wool to the sleek super-heroine cocktails finished with mini capes, or coal-black galactic warrior sheathes done with white ruffles – like the Catherine de Medici style much admired by Gabrielle. Continue reading

IVANKA TRUMP MADE IN CHINA

Throughout his presidential campaign, one of the biggest platforms that Donald Trump ran on was, according to his website, his opposition to American companies that manufacture their products overseas. However, as his opponents quickly pointed out during election season, both Donald and Ivanka’s clothing lines are made in countries like Bangladesh and China.

Since Donald’s own eponymous apparel line essentially folded, the focus is now on his daughter Ivanka’s manufacturing practices. The New York Times reports that several products from Ivanka’s line are produced overseas. In fact, in 2016 alone, there were at least 193 shipments of imported goods for Ivanka Trump brands, according to a review the paper commissioned from trade database ImportGenius. A review of tags and financial documents from G-III Apparel Group revealed that Ivanka’s dresses and blouses are made in China, Indonesia, and Vietnam. Continue reading