MARC JABOB’S AND NIETZSCHE

In the face of ever-changing resources, unexpected obstacles, and a world that is digitizing new standards of reality, my sentiment is that unwavering creativity is the essence of living.

The words of philosopher Nietzsche read on the show notes at Marc Jacobs’ latest runway show, “We share our choices with a world beyond our insulated but not impermeable walls.”.

With this collection, Jacobs took his enveloping, dystopian shapes to the next level, merging classic American sportswear silhouettes with couture-like sensibilities (fabrics included vinyl, rubber, plastic, plaster, glass, foil, and more). The fall of 2022 was an extension of the message of protection from spring and fall of 2021, with quirky, cool aesthetics.

“Reaching beyond the walls of the library and onto the big screens of Times Square, the show demonstrated the power of fashion and Jacobs’s creative ability that has made him a star.” is the critique of pure reason.

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THOM BROWNE 2023

The collection Thom Browne showed at Hôtel de Crillon on Sunday night. Male models, some with spiky punk hairdos, strode down the catwalk in a lineup tweed ensembles. Probably it was an homage to Chanel but also to Browne’s creativity: The fabrics were developed in France specifically for the brand, and many came edged in sequins or festooned with tiny white tufts, like bits of Peter Cottontail’s nether regions.

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LEONARDO DEL VECCHIO

Leonardo Del Vecchio pass away at 87. A genius, a visionary, an Italian who inspired many just left us. Thank you Leonardo for teaching us a lot.

It was, without doubt, a visionary man and one of the most successful Italian entrepreneurs of the past decades. Through his tireless work, he strongly influenced not only the luxury sector, but the entire Italian economic landscape.

Today we lost a man with and extraordinary humanity, capable of transforming great intuitions into successful entrepreneurial stories. Constantly in pursuit of absolute perfection, Leonardo Del Vecchio will remain a point of reference for Italian excellence all over the world.

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OWENS GREAT BALLS OF FIRE

The end of the world is depicted in Apocalypse Now and End of Days by Rick Owens. Three orbs about two meters across were set on fire, and then slowly raised high above us, then dropped to a sizzling impact in the fountain of the Palais de Tokyo.

The great balls of fire represent suns, arcing across the sky, and crashing to the ground.

Owens had been in Egypt and named the collection Edfu, after the site of the Ptolemaic Temple of Horus. However the only literal souvenirs of that journey on the runway today were the three top-to-toe tulle looks near the end.

Owens tweaked his own codes today, introducing a flared-upper version of his killer platform boot. Another novelty was technical wear, delivered in the loose pants, shirts, and inverted jackets cut in gray ripstop nylon shot through with Dyneema, a fiber Owens said was “apparently one of the strongest in the world.
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CHAPTER 11 FOR REVLON

The 90-year-old New York-based beauty company, whose brands include namesake Revlon, Elizabeth Arden and Almay, has been struggling with a hefty pile of debt listed as $3.7 billion that it spent much of 2020 renegotiating, which enabled it to avoid a more formal restructuring process then. But supply chain issues, soaring inflation and increased competition from the likes of The Estée Lauder Cos. and Coty Inc. and a plethora of digital start-ups have only exacerbated the situation, and these factors combined with loans coming up for renewal forced it to once again consider bankruptcy.

Today’s filing will allow Revlon to offer our consumers the iconic products we have delivered for decades, while providing a clearer path for our future growth.

In the filing, Revlon stated that it is receiving a $575 million in debtor-in-possession financing from its existing lender base, which in addition to the existing working capital facility, will provide liquidity to support day-to-day operations.

AHLUWALIA LONDON 2023

The label combines elements from the designer’s dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots. It explores the potential of vintage and surplus clothing by giving existing material a new life through various textile and patchwork techniques. This means that many Ahluwalia pieces are one of a kind.

Inspired by art, music and literature, much of the work created by Ahluwalia go beyond her collections and include collaborative campaigns, books and films.

Ahluwalia is deemed as a pioneer in the fashion industry and is regularly featured in press from all over the world, from the New York Times and i-D to Vogue and many more.

Ahluwalia is available in renowned stores worldwide, including Matches Fashion, Browns, Bergdorf Goodman, Ssense and Nordstrom.

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GUCCI JEWELRY

Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele is still amazed by the trajectory of this particular brand segment in presenting the brand’s third high jewelry collection.

Jewels are alive, I wanted them back to real life. They mark major milestones in our lives.  In addition to wearing them on the runway, I wear them everywhere I go, at work, for breakfast, on the street,” he continued, pointing out Gucci’s innovative step by presenting high jewelry designs alongside ready-to-wear.

According to Michele, the campaign art directed by Ezra Petronio and shot by Mert Marcus may seem counterintuitive, since the jewels are one-of-a-kind and may already be unavailable before the campaign is over.

He aims to create an imaginary world around the jewels by creating “unique and special pieces”. To wit, this collection is divided according to five themes. Continue reading

GUCCI HOUSE OF CARDS

After achieving its previous revenue target of 10 billion euros in 2021, Gucci has set its sights on revenues of 15 billion euros. Comparatively, Louis Vuitton, owned by rival French conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, generated revenues of 16.7 billion euros in 2021.

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THE CARBON FOOTPRINT OF LUXURY

After Elon Musk, Internet users can now follow the journeys of the personal plane of the prince of luxury. For several days, a website highlights the extremely polluting, and sometimes even useless, travels of the Lord, president of “Mouette and Psy”.

Indeed, the account reveals impressive CO2 emissions. Last month the private jet spent 176 tons of CO2, it means 17 years of consumption for an average French person. The CEO of the group owns a private jet “Bombardier Global Express” at an estimated value of 48M€, without options. Combining performance and comfort, this business jet is considered as one of the most efficient private jets in the world. It has a range of 13,000 km, allowing it to fly internationally to its 54-square kilometer island paradise in Bahamas.

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SKKN HIGHT PRICE FOR LOW CARE

It’s no surprise that Kim Kardashian’s new skin care brand, Skkn by Kim, has generated buzz. The line is also under scrutiny due to its price tag of $630 for a nine-step routine consisting of a toner, exfoliator, hyaluronic acid serum, vitamin C8 serum, face cream, eye cream, oil drops and night oil.

Kardashian’s line may not be available in your nearest drugstore, but it is actually quite affordable compared to some other skin care brands.

Those interested and with deep enough pockets can check out beauty’s most expensive skin care routines. Prepare to spend. But everyone knows that the margins are colossal, and that the same factories manufacture the same product whether it is Farmasi or KKS. So think about it before spending thousands of dollars.

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SEPHORA BROKE THE MANAGER

The only hamburger that the lord loves was Karl Lagerfeld. As of the end of the month, Martin Brok, who was appointed CEO and president in September 2020, will depart from the company. LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s chairman and CEO, Chris de Lapuente, who also oversees the group’s Perfumes and Cosmetics activities, will serve as president and chief executive officer of Sephora.

I have no comment, but according to an internal release obtained Brok’s departure is “due to a divergence of views.” Would the relationship with the lord be difficult?

Brok prior to that he was at Nike for eight years, where he oversaw the company’s direct to consumer business and was vice president of global product and merchandising operations and analytics.

His departure comes at a critical moment for Sephora, the only prestige beauty retailer with a global presence. Employment, how do you explain the labor shortage that threatens several sectors?