ON AURA TOUT VU

Soldiers disarmed, here is the conquest of the imagination and the mythology of childhood, this couple in perpetual creation deserves to be in the pantheon of fashion, they who dress all the most famous singers of the planet for their concerts, while the Lord of the Arnault pays these same singers to attend his presentations.

Both coming from the Balkans, they are marked by the military. Intimacy is the standard well hidden behind the extravagance of these two creators, a unique vision beyond good and evil, it tells the story of a life, a past that influences their sewing, just as Saint-Saint-Exupéry, in his time, was inspired by his travels in the desert. They are the little Prince of fashion.

Feathers and shimmering crystal sparkles of a lightness of being, when dawn takes flight here are the tightrope walkers of the needle in balance on the rainbow of challenges that invites us to Paradise but Latin. The last pure ones who row against the wind, because true artists are like that: always against the current. We have never seen a great painter being in the usual suitability of Panurge’s sheep. Continue reading

SORBIER THE RIO GRANDE OF HAUTE COUTURE

And the horse rode along my page with his rider and shaded what I wrote. Slowly he turned its head, and as if it was afraid that I would read into its beastly heart, stretching out its muzzle to touch the Mexican sun. It sets off like a king playing with its eternal freedom, galloping even faster without worrying about the world around and brushing against the aficionados of Fashion Week, mixing the wind with its golden hair, but above all coming without knowing how to make Franck Sorbier’s dress undulate in the horizon of Neptune.

Today the space is splendid, without bridle or spur, but above all without restraining our spirit. Like two angels tortured by an implacable silk of organza, in the crystal blue of the morning. Oh, What a beautiful Mexican Amazon! Her young forehead radiates with pride, and the pleasure burns her feet with the happiness of galloping in such a place. Amazons born as daughters of “La Caballera” by Mario Luraschi’s Warrior Nymph, it’s not something you can make up. In the past, they lived near the Rio Grande and here they are alone to defend our poet of Haute Couture, Franck Sorbier.

I keep in my heart the tenacious imprint of the Maestro of Haute Couture, a French cultural exception, of which he remains to this day the sole custodian. You are a Great One, Sir, and no one will be able to take your place, so be it. Continue reading

DIOR, BLAME ON YOU !

He was the eccentricity although there was no snobbery in him. He created his accessories by recycling everything he had on hand; already an ecological visionary. Judy Blame was a sweet, punk London nutter of his own kind. Judy… for Judy Garland and Blame came to cling to his name, laughing about it, he said, because it’s better to laugh than to cry. Here is a wink from Kim John, who has drawn heavily on this legacy for her collection. And, because of the designer’s passion for sewing, the show was a parade of dandies wearing moiré silks cut with large cocards, precious wools both knitted and used for bulky coats, and Opera gloves that complemented every look. The first thing you could see was the jewelry (characteristic elements of Judy Blame’s look). Continue reading

VIKTOR AND ROLF IS BACK

Five years after shuttering their ready-to-wear business, Viktor & Rolf are returning to men’s wear with a new collection that combines their signature dandy style with a more conscious approach to design.

The label, which belongs to Italian entrepreneur Renzo Rosso’s OTB SpA group, has entered into a worldwide licensing partnership with Tokyo-based Shiffon Co. Ltd. for the production and distribution of the new Mister Mister line, which will be presented to buyers from Jan. 15 to 22 during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris.

In addition, Viktor & and loungewear for women and men that is 100 percent compostable billed as the first of its kind. The line is due to be presented at the Salon International de la Lingerie in Paris from Jan. 18 to 20.

ONE BILLION BEAUTY DEAL OVER

Shiseido has acquired Drunk Elephant for $845 million. The deal underscores the Japanese buyer’s ambitions to globalize its beauty offerings, but also indicates that purchase prices for beauty brands may be calming down.

Industry sources had originally speculated that Drunk Elephant, a popular indie skin-care brand that was said to have about $100 million in net sales for 2018, could be sold for $1 billion or even more. The auction process was said to have attracted a slew of big-name bidders, including Colgate, L’Oréal and the Estée Lauder Cos.

Source said it was never clear where the $1 billion idea came from, but that with the Shiseido sale, Drunk Elephant has achieved one of the highest sales multiples for a beauty brand. Continue reading

SIR LAUREN KBE

On Wednesday, Lauren was given an honorary KBE, or Honorary Knight Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire, for services to fashion during a private ceremony at Buckingham Palace.

Because he’s an American citizen, the title is an honorary one and Lauren won’t be able to use “Sir” ahead of his name unless he becomes a British citizen.

Other honorary American KBEs include Michael Bloomberg, Bill Gates, Steven Spielberg, Bob Hope, Alan Greenspan, Ted Kennedy and Douglas Fairbanks Jr. Lauren is the first American fashion designer to receive the accolade.

This isn’t the first time the Brits or the royal family have feted Lauren: In 2016, the British Fashion Council honored the designer with its Outstanding Achievement award at the Fashion Awards in London. Continue reading

HERMES CROCODILE DANDY

There will be color, teased Axel Dumas, chief executive officer of Hermès International, revealing a few details about plans by the French luxury firm to launch a makeup line next year. Color is the only thing he can analyse!

For the moment, we are starting with makeup, it’s a long-term plan, we will launch in 2020, with an announcement when we are ready we still have to finish the products. Nobody launches an unfinished makeup line !

The perfumes division accounted for around 5 percent of the company’s annual sales of nearly 6 billion euros last year.

Asked about conditions for slaying crocodiles, Dumas said that the company has veterinary guidelines that are “much more demanding than local regulation so that animal well-being is respected in each farm it’s essential, part of Hermès’ projects.” Now you understand why Hermès carries on killing crocodile in top secret farm. Continue reading

LVMH BUYS RODEO DRIVE

Louis Vuitton, is ramping up activity in the hospitality sector, eyeing three recently purchased properties on and around Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills for the opening of a Cheval Blanc hotel.

In March 2018, LVMH bought a 6,200-square-foot empty retail space at 456 North Rodeo Drive for $110 million. Then, in September, the luxury powerhouse headed by billionaire Bernard Arnault purchased 468 North Rodeo Drive, the massive 22,250-square-foot, multistory building at the corner of Santa Monica Boulevard that was previously occupied by Brooks Brothers, for $245 million from the trust of the family of Margaret J. Anderson, who built the pink stucco Beverly Hills Hotel. In November, LVMH scooped up the 26,523-square-foot Paley Center for Media museum behind the store, at 465 North Beverly Drive, from New York private real estate investment firm Jenel Management for $80 million. Continue reading

NOT JUST A PRETTY FACEBOOK

Wednesday afternoon, a number of Facebook and Instagram users were having trouble accessing their accounts. According to DownDetector.com, tens of thousands of users haven’t been able to access their social media accounts since roughly noon Eastern Standard Time.

For Facebook, DownDetector.com states that out of reported problems, 34 percent can’t log in to their accounts, 33 percent can’t access their newsfeed and 32 percent are experiencing a total blackout. In its live outage map, it shows that the Facebook outage is being primarily experienced in the U.S. and Western Europe. Continue reading

CHANEL SNOWBALL IN HELL

Karl Lagerfeld’s last show for Chanel opened with a moment of silence, and the vast Grand Palais was as hushed as the mountain village depicted in the set, rows of wooden chalets, their chimneys smoking, set among pine trees and mounds of fake snow.

Lagerfeld loved snow  he would rush out to take photos whenever it dusted Paris and his finale looks were white “snowball” sweater dresses with fluffy skirts, the first modeled by Penélope Cruz, who strolled out smiling and twirling a flower.

Chanel tucked a sketch into the press kits on each seat in Lagerfeld’s inimitable hand. It shows him standing with Gabrielle Chanel, and his handwritten caption read “The beat goes on…”

Claudia Schiffer, Janelle Monáe, Kristen Stewart, Stella Tennant, Ellie Bamber, Brandi Quinones and Naomi Campbell were among the bold-faced names to attend the show, along with international press and VIP clients

GUILLAUME HENRY AT PATOU

Sidney Toledano, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Fashion Group, is spearheading the project and has already selected and signed on a designer to lead it: Guillaume Henry.

Last March, Henry exited Nina Ricci and he is said to be passionate about the legacy of Patou, a French designer who brought modernity and buzz to fashion in the Twenties —and innovated in business with fragrances, logos and sport clothes.

LVMH is now in the throes of building teams around Henry with a view to launching the first collection of ready-to-wear and accessories in the second half of 2019.

It is understood the group views Patou as something of a niche, rarified name and not its next megabrand. Consequently, LVMH will likely start with a single boutique, most likely in Paris, along with e-commerce and select wholesale partners.

The relaunch suggests the world’s largest luxury group is anticipating an easing of the streetwear craze, and a swing of the fashion pendulum back to sophisticated chic. Continue reading