After 20 years, the show is back to his original theater at 11 Via Borgonuovo, an underground space at his storied headquarter where he showed his collections every season until he opened the new Tadao Ando-designed theater across town in 2001.

The models breezed down the catwalk in fluid silk trousers paired with collarless jackets or blazers and sheer blouses in fuchsia or marine blue with little ribbons tumbling down the back, or with ruffles at the front.

There was a rippling lightness to so much of this collection, which wrapped with a lineup of floaty tulle dresses dotted here and there with sparkles like droplets of sea water.