HERETIC LAUNCHES DIRTY VIOLET

The drag artist and burlesque performer is the latest muse to partner with Heretic, a genderless fragrance brand whose scents are made with naturally derived ingredients and do not contain synthetics. Heretic previously unveiled a scent with burlesque star Dita Von Teese. Called Scandalwood, the scent also came in the form of a striptease candle that showed Von Teese in various states of undress.

Today, Heretic launches Dirty Violet, an eau de parfum with notes of, fittingly, violet leaf, jasmine sambac, patchouli, cedarwood and labdanum. The composition, said Chachki, makes for a genderless scent that embodies what she typically gravitates toward.

Chachki’s Heretic campaign shoot was inspired by John Willie, the pseudonym of John Alexander Scott Coutts, a subversive illustrator from the Thirties. Coutts was also the publisher of Bizarre, an underground magazine centering around BDSM and fetish. Continue reading

THE 200 BILLION DOLLARS MAN

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s market capitalization shot past the 200 billion euro mark Monday, closing at 397.50 euros per share. The market capitalization of French rivals Hermès International and Kering, meanwhile, stood at 68.85 billion euros and 65.56 billion euros, respectively. Swiss-based Compagnie Financière Richemont trailed behind its French competitors, with a market capitalization of 41.52 billion Swiss francs, or 37.77 billion euros.

Recently, investors seem to have shrugged off disruption to the LVMH’s business in Hong Kong an important market for high-end goods over the third quarter. Looking to grow further, the group has offered $14.5 billion for Tiffany & Co. The outcome of the bid remains uncertain, however, even if no counter offers have emerged. Continue reading

IT’S MAKES SCENTS

The lors opened for Celine a store in Paris dedicated to its new line of niche perfumes, and the space is as art-centric as its clothing boutiques.

Works by Luisa Gardini, Rochelle Goldberg, Camilla Reyman and Søren Sejr are dotted throughout the store located at 390 Rue Saint-Honoré, whose design mirrors the Art Deco influences in the perfume bottles designed by Celine’s creative director Hedi Slimane. Continue reading

QUEEN FASHION HALLOWEEN

In the 20 years that Heidi Klum has hosted her annual Halloween party, the infamous “queen of Halloween” has always kept spectators guessing what outlandish costume she’s going to wear.

This year, Klum gave fans a peak at her Halloween transformation, camping out at the 34th Street Amazon Books store’s windowfront all day Thursday where spectators witnessed the hours of makeup and prosthetics applications that transformed the German model into what she later explained as a bionic alien.

Klum’s grand entrance began at precisely 11:23 p.m., where she arrived at the new Cathédrale Restaurant in East Village with husband Tom Kaulitz in a hazmat truck. On the red carpet, she hissed and clawed at cameras, showing off her costume’s organ-like prosthetics, stitching and wires. Continue reading

DESIGNER MACCARI STEPS DOWN

The Michael Maccari era at Perry Ellis has come to an end. In a surprise announcement Tuesday morning, the company said Maccari, who had headed the creative efforts of the brand since 2013, has resigned to “pursue other opportunities.”

Oscar Feldenkreis, chief executive officer of the Miami-based company, said Maccari is “a great guy and did a lot of great things for the brand. He was instrumental in getting Perry to where we are today. We wish him the best of luck.”

Maccari, who was fashion director and senior vice president of design for Armani Exchange, also worked at Polo Ralph Lauren, J. Crew, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan New York before joining Perry Ellis. He is a graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology. He could not be reached for comment on his future plans. Continue reading

ABASI AND ROSBOROUGH

Abasi and Rosborough lost touch for several years following school. They reconnected three years later over coffee and an idea Rosborough had formulated.

While working at Ralph Lauren, Rosborough had asked the senior Italian tailors how they thought the men’s suit would evolve over time, and what it might look like in 50 years. The tailors told him that the suit was perfect, and it would never change. As a young designer just beginning his career, Rosborough found it confounding that in his entire lifetime as a designer, the hallmark of menswear, the suit, would not change. Continue reading

KIM AND VIRGIL A RACES

Kim Jones likes to think of himself as low-profile, but scroll through his Instagram account, and you’ll find images of the designer with Donatella Versace, Kate Moss, David Beckham or Naomi Campbell  all people he considers close friends.

With 701,000 followers  twice as many as when he joined Dior as men’s artistic director in April last year Jones still lags behind fellow designers like Versace (4.7 million followers) or Virgil Abloh (4.4 million), but more than makes up for it in influence.

So many VIPs attended his debut show for Dior in June 2018 that the brand struggled to find front-row seats for top editors. The guest list included Moss, Campbell, Robert Pattinson, Bella Hadid, Kelly Osbourne, A$AP Rocky, Victoria Beckham, Christina Ricci, Joe Jonas, Lenny Kravitz and Russell Westbrook. Continue reading

BREAKFAST AT MELANIE’S

The Lord of luxury is looking at acquiring the famous American jeweller “Tiffany”, known for its engagement rings and diamonds, but also its precious stones. The house, which has the world on the horizon, and many paths that remain to be explored through the shadows of luxury, to the edge of the night, but above all, until the stars are finally all lit by all the diamonds of the earth, continues its colonisation.

Breakfast at Melanie , and a few days earlier, we were wondering how the Lord could bear the company of this uncultivated Donald Trump! He says of François Pinault that the only diploma he has to his credit is his driving licence, so we can imagine what he has to say about Trump Avenue Montaign. Continue reading

VUITTON LONDON NEW STORE

It’s like a gallery in here, the swanky top floor of Louis Vuitton’s refurbished, brightly lit New Bond Street store in London, which is wall-to-wall with color-drenched works by artists including Jim Lambie, Tracey Emin.

“It’s like a nightclub in here,” said Delevingne, who attended with her husband James Cook and who recalled the first party, too. “I used to collaborate with Louis Vuitton when I was a wee little thing,” said the model and actress. Continue reading

SOPHIE LABBÉ JOINED FIRMENICH

Sophie Labbé has joined Firmenich as principal perfumer of the fine fragrance team, based here. She spent the last 27 years of her career at IFF, creating scents for brands including Calvin Klein, Givenchy, Ferragamo, Nina Ricci, Versace and Yves Saint Laurent.

“In recent years, we have been transforming our fine fragrance team to prepare for the future and anticipate new market demands,” Jerry Vittoria, president, fine fragrances worldwide at Firmenich, said in a statement. “Sophie Labbé’s talent is recognized by all our partners, and her vast experience across international markets will help ensure our longterm sustained leadership in fine fragrance.”

“Like many perfumers, joining the team and accessing its unique palette of ingredients remains a career dream,” Labbé said. “I was also deeply impressed by the company’s commitment to greater environmental and societal respect, and its creative strength through innovation.” Continue reading

PARIS TEXAS AND VUITTON

Nicolas Ghesquiere, creative director of Louis Vuitton, branded Donald Trump a “joke,” just days after the U.S. president visited the fashion company’s new leather workshop in Texas.

French fashion designer Ghesquiere, creative director for Louis Vuitton’s women’s collections, posted an image of Evelyn Thomas’ 1984 hit “High Energy” on Instagram alongside the caption: “Standing against any political action. I am a fashion designer refusing this association #trumpisajoke #homophobia.”

It comes after Trump visited the company’s new leather workshop in Johnson County, Texas, on Thursday. The site is part of LVMH’s commitment to create 1,000 jobs in the region as part Trump’s Pledge to America’s Workers initiative, the Business of Fashion reported.

Louis Vuitton and its parent company LVMH have not responded to Ghesquiere’s comment. LVMH’s billionaire owner Bernard Arnault stopped short of calling Trump a friend at the factory opening but acknowledged that the two had known each other since the 1980s, Continue reading

SHANGHAI FASHION GREAT PROSPECTIVE

According to the Shanghai Fashion Week committee, Shanghai had its best season to date. More than 60,000 designers, editors, buyers and creatives gathered there to showcase the latest fashion and ideas and explore what role they can play in the world’s largest fashion and luxury market.

Shanghai hosts the biggest fashion week trade show business in Asia. Some 101 brands showed on schedule and more than 1,700 brands participated in seven of the official showroom and trade show events this season. Each event  Mode, Ontimeshow, Showroom Shanghai, DFO, Tube, Alter and Not Showroom.

While the majority of the business in Shanghai caters to the mass market, some brands managed to attract attention from top buyers from big cities like Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Guangzhou and Shenzhen. Buyers from second and third-tier cities such as Chengdu, Chongqing, Wuhan, Changsha, an, Zhengzhou, Taiyuan are also on the rise, though these markets have very different tastes. Continue reading

DIOR A GEOPOLITICAL HUMOUR

A brand representative showcased a map of China, which illustrated the number of stores in the country, but excluded the disputed region of Taiwan during a Dream in Dior internship program campus talk, according to a video, which began to surface on Weibo, China’s own Twitter.

When asked about why Taiwan was missing on the map by a university student, the representative responded: “I think it’s maybe because the picture is too small and Taiwan is too small.”

After that, the brand representative further explained the difference between mainland China, Hong Kong and Taiwan region, and stressed that the Hong Kong and Taiwan markets are not under their management. “Because we are in China, we look after mainland China,” the representative said. Continue reading

HEMU SPRING SHANGHAI 2020

HEMU was founded in Shanghai, China in 2010, with Oriental element and humanity as the origin of design. It adheres to the belief of originality, zen and inheriting Oriental culture, and is committed to creating an excellent Chinese original designer brand. HEMU takes the vast Chinese culture as its design inspiration and adheres to a low-key and concise design attitude. Continue reading

C + PLUS OF CHINA

The waves of desire and poetry were present and counterbalanced the vulgarity that had sat beside me, an Afida, an error of nature, was a stain in the ambient poetry, but all the disgust is in nature. Among the birds, there are also crows and chickens.

A cape shirt for a breath of beauty, in these days of grey fashion week in the Middle Kingdom, I will want to say “The Middle of the Downer”. This young Japanese man, where the Samurai of sewing makes war on the beautiful, tries to interpret the human heart and uses the sounds of a 35-ton truck to express the most nuanced feelings. He wishes to evoke images that should resonate powerfully in our imagination, but that only resonate in the Gobi desert. Continue reading

FASHION WEEK SHANGHAI

In addition to the four major fashion weeks, Shanghai has established itself as one of the most important fashion hubs in the East. Although the country’s best-known names such as Masha Ma and Uma Wang prefer to perform in Europe, Shanghai Fashion Week offers a platform for young independent labels such as Xuzhi, Oude Wang, and Shushu/Tong.

It is also an opportunity for foreign journalists and buyers to discover new local talent and to engage in a massive but often complex market. Among the labels to watch in the coming days are Ximon Lee, Anaïs Jourden (from Hong Kong and regularly in Paris), Staff Only, Oude Wang, and Shushu/Tong.

The Chinese scene of independent designers is young, but very lucrative, as young Chinese consumers are looking for local brands, which makes it Gen Z’s strong point.

Anonumode

A CHOO CAN HIDE A CHIC

Strictly speaking, Chinese art is understood as a European style of decoration whose origin expresses artistic exchanges between very distant civilizations and fundamentally different in their perception of the world. The term itself appeared in the French language around 1845, with a distinctly pejorative connotation that has long been disturbing. Continue reading

HONG KONG AND LVMH

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said sales rose 17 percent in the third quarter, fueled by rapid growth in fashion and leather goods. Sales totaled 13.32 billion euros in the three months ended Sept. 30, up 11 percent on an organic basis, the company said. Analysts had banked on a 9 percent rise in like-for-like revenues.

LVMH’s performance was driven by its key fashion and leather goods division, which includes Louis Vuitton, Dior and Fendi. It saw revenues rise by 19 percent on a like-for-like basis to 5.45 billion euros during the third quarter, again sharply exceeding consensus estimates.

Wines and spirits were up 8 percent, while perfumes and cosmetics recorded organic growth of 7 percent. Selective retailing, which includes duty free operator DFS and beauty retailer Sephora, grew 4 percent, and watches and jewelry posted a 5 percent increase. Continue reading

KERING AND RICHMONT

During a visit to Kering Eyewear’s headquarters at the 17th-century Villa Zaguri here, about an hour away from Venice, Vedovotto spoke of the newly inaugurated logistics center unveiled by Kering chief François-Henri Pinault during Milan Fashion Week last month  and provided an update on the performance of the company, which he set up in 2014, launching a new business model.

Today, Kering Eyewear develops and distributes collections for 15 brands: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Alaïa, Brioni, Boucheron, Pomellato, McQ and Puma.

In March 2017, Compagnie Financière Richemont became a stakeholder in Kering Eyewear, which led to the production of Cartier eyewear. Collections for Montblanc, Courrèges and Balenciaga have been added since January. From 33 employees in December 2014, Kering Eyewear now has around 1,300 employees, of which 60 percent are women. Out of the total, 55 percent hail from countries outside Italy. Continue reading

CHANEL AT THE CONTEMPT OPERA

As a reminder of the links between Gabrielle and the world of dance, Chanel is a sponsor of the opening gala of the 2019/20 Paris Opera dance season, which was held last week. And it is clear that there are many uneducated people today! Indeed, the Paris Opera has paid tribute in its own way to Serge Lifar and rehabilitating within the choreographic heritage is that reasonable! The most controversial man after the war and the mix of genres between Coco Chanel, a great lover of “artistic” collaboration, did not surprise anyone! An educated person will probably have slipped the information into the hands of a “Dir Conne” who is infertile to culture.

It should be noted that when France signed the Armistice in 1940, Lifar chose to collaborate by becoming a great friend of the Nazi party. He became one of the “stars” of Parisian cultural and social life, and twenty times on the job he handed over his outrage, between German officers and collaborators with whom he was in contact, he congratulated Germany after the capture of Kiev. Continue reading

MARINE SERRE PARIS 2020

Last week in Longchamp, it was not the oil cat walk as Marine Serre had promised, but rather the Black Marine, and in addition to the rain falling on Paris as the new products of the LVMH group would. Here is the designer dressed by the Lord of Fashion Ring Bernard Arnault, for whom the red carpet was pulled out, and who unrolls his oil black carpet for us.

Being offered Longchamp before Dior, the Granville master would have been very upset. And all this for a very dull collection despite all the money spent and the advisers of the Lady of the Châtelet.

Dubbed “Marée Noire” (“Black Tide” in French), the collection is rife with signature Serre designs, updated with moody hues appropriate for the disquieting theme black jumpsuits, jackets and bags referenced both the oil that hastens environmental shifts and the shades worn by protestors, while splashes of red are an ode to drawn blood. Tiny, delicate bags and clutched pooches hint at bourgeoisie ladies escaping mutating landscapes, while tailored suiting is upended by tonal camouflage and towel-like textiles, speaking to the utilitarian needs of a post-apocalypse society. Continue reading

SLIMANE OUTSIDE THE IMAGINATION

The lobotomized imagination, already in the case of Saint Laurent, he thought Celine was a sophisticated lady of the upper middle class who had undergone a genetic manipulation of botox with a bohemian. Really, the 70s shine with pink chiffon dresses, blue buttoned heels and blazers with a trench coat and the classic plaid jacket, spread over the past two years by Alessandro Michele at Gucci.

The bourgeoisie of Parck Avenue, with their hands in their pockets, in jeans, basketball, shirts open to miscellaneous medals or a bourgeois fashion post 60 from the great century.

The leather jackets and scarves of Loulou de la Falaise, Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic muse coming out of his latest “Detintox-Botox” treatment, fans of the designer will surely appreciate, but, for us, Slimane’s signature is still linked to the memories of the years when Paris was the epicentre of this glamour and celebration, and when Saint Laurent was the cornerstone of fashion but with collections that were created in the workshops and outside nightclubs. Continue reading