VALERIE HERMAN IS LEAVING RALPH

Valérie Hermann, president of global brands at Ralph Lauren Corp., is leaving the firm, effective Sept. 30. Ralph Lauren, chairman and chief creative officer, said, “Valérie is a talented leader who has made many valuable contributions to our company”
Hermann added, “After six years, I have decided to step down from my position of president of Global Brands at Ralph Lauren. I leave with a great sense of accomplishment, having put in place a team that can continue the mission we are dedicated to.

Prior to joining Ralph Lauren, Hermann was president and ceo of Reed Krakoff, having helped establish that business. Earlier, she was ceo of Yves Saint Laurent in Paris and before that was with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, where she was president of John Galliano and director of women’s ready-to-wear at Dior. Continue reading

FOCUS ON KNOOP

Christian Knoop designers The secret of a successful makeover is to have the right idea at the right time. “The Richemont brands offer an unbelievable treasure trove of cultural and artistic heritage that sets a leading example and provides an endless source of inspiration for today’s designers. Creativity remains a key asset of each Maison and one of the most precious values held by the Richemont Group.

Mechanical watches have a rich and fascinating history and many of them become iconic products within the world of luxury accessories. In our Maisons, designers team up with craftsmen, artists and experts combining traditional artisanal techniques with cutting-edge technology and manufacturing benchmarks. Continue reading

THE LORD OF THE CHIC

Luxury Tycoon Bernard Arnault has overtaken Bill Gates as the world’s second richest person.

The chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has to third position on the Bloomberg Billionaires Index with a net worth of $107.6 billion on Tuesday. Arnault’s fortune has grown by $39 billion this year, meaning he likely added another $197 million to his coffers overnight. Continue reading

CAVALLI SOLD TO DAMAC OF DUBAI

After weeks of speculation, the name of the new owner of Roberto Cavalli S.p.A. has been revealed: It is Vision Investment Co. LLC, controlled by Hussain Sajwani, the founder and chairman of the Damac Properties Group.

Vision Investment has signed a binding contract with the Florence-based fashion company and its shareholder Varenne 3 to acquire 100% of the firm. Financial details and the amount of the debt were not disclosed, although sources peg the transaction at around 160 million euros.

Damac Properties was ranked number one on the Forbes 2017 Global 2000 list of the fastest growing global companies based on the compound annual growth rate of revenues from 2013 to 2016, according to Wikipedia. In the Forbes 2018 rankings, Sajwani was the world’s fourth richest Arab with a net worth of $4.1 billion.

ELVIS IS ALIVE

Elvis is alive Authentic Brands Group, the owner of the rights to the late singer’s name, and Bellevue Brands have partnered to launch the Elvis Presley fragrance collection this fall, a line of scents for men and women.

The initial collection is comprised of four fragrances under the names Legend and Forever. The men’s Legend scent has musky and spicy ingredients such as pink pepper, amber and cedarwood, while Forever features black pepper, incense and fir balsam. For women, Legend has floral notes of hibiscus water, lavender buds, orange flower and rose, while Forever for Her has mandarin, apple blossom, pink pepper and ebony woods.

The bottles containing the fragrances nod to Elvis’ music history. Legend features a gold-plated mold of the entertainer on stage and Forever is a record-shaped bottle with a gold or silver vintage microphone top. Continue reading

SAMANTA LEATHER GROUP

Chanel has acquired a stake in Italian tannery Samanta, a specialist in printed leather, as it continues to secure its supply chain in the face of a growing shortage of high-quality leather.

In a rapidly changing luxury market and leather industry, the two companies have decided to join forces to help Samanta further develop its unique offering, recognized by the biggest names in luxury. For Chanel, Samanta’s expertise and technical know-how represents a real added value for the leather industry as a whole.

Samanta’s expertise in printed leather will be especially useful for Chanel, which announced last year that it would no longer use exotic skins including crocodile, lizard, snake and stingray, and would instead rely on the know-how of its in-house ateliers to create high-end products. Continue reading

L’ORÉAL TALKS WITH CLARINS

L’Oréal is diving deeper into the designer perfume business, disclosing Tuesday that it’s in exclusive talks to acquire the Mugler fragrance and fashion businesses, and the Azzaro fragrance brand and accessories. It sets the stage for the world’s biggest beauty company to dabble in fashion once more, while Groupe Clarins will exit the perfume and ready-to-wear markets altogether to focus on skin care.

“The perfume category is at the heart of our global strategy for growth at L’Oréal Luxe,” said Cyril Chapuy, president of that division. “In this context, we would be thrilled to welcome Mugler and Azzaro: These signatures, with a long history in fashion and olfaction, would perfectly complete our portfolio of brands.”

“This is a strategic move, whose goal is to refocus and reinvest to unleash the full potential of Clarins. Mugler’s portfolio of perfumes includes the blockbuster Angel women’s scent, which pioneered the gourmand olfactive family when it launched in 1992, and Alien, that’s now an even a bigger bestseller. Continue reading

BELLETINI PRESIDENT

Francesca Bellettini succeeds Chanel’s Bruno Pavlovsky as president of the governing body of women’s fashion in France. Saint Laurent chief executive officer Francesca Bellettini has been elected president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Féminine, the governing body of women’s fashion in France.

Bellettini succeeds Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel and president of Chanel SAS. Pavlovsky and Chloé ceo Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye were voted in as vice presidents at a meeting of the Chambre Syndicale’s general assembly on June 20. Continue reading

THE BIRD BY CLARE WAIGHT KELLER

With the Givenchy collection she showed on Tuesday night, Clare Waight Keller indicated a shift from the more clearly clinical perspective from which she created her first three couture collections for Givenchy, creating some quite beautiful clothes along the way, to that of a storyteller who now also buys into the wonderment of couture. Backstage post-show, she didn’t lead with the importance of precision cuts or modernist restraint. Rather, she dubbed the collection Noblesse Radicale.

“I wanted to kind of step it up a notch for myself,” she said. “I wanted to push it into something that has a little more theater.”

Waight Keller went back and forth between the smart elegant tailoring that she’s made a priority at Givenchy to beautifully crafted gowns, some constructed to nth degree, some more deliberately haphazard, their voluminous sleeves or skirts festoons of fabric taken from those imaginary curtains and secured by drawstrings. Continue reading

DIOR LAST DAY AV MONTAIGNE

A giant Jack and the Beanstalk faux redwood in charcoal creeping up four floors up through the stairway, fabulous black and white paintings and a string quartet in white Grecian robes playing Vivaldi. Ironically, the show was staged just days before the house begins a massive reconstruction of its historic headquarters on Avenue Montaigne. Continue reading

JOSSE LA FEMME DES SABLES

MINZOO BRAND SHANGHAI

The MINZOO brand is dedicated to creating a stylish IP with ethnic characteristics and bringing it to the international market. Apply intangible cultural heritage to modern daily life design, digg up new design power, make Chinese national culture fashionable, meet fashion and related industry insiders to find and inspire while at the same time promote the national special handicraft culture to the international market. Continue reading

PYER MOSS 250 $

Following its debut in pink, the Reebok Experiment 3 by Pyer Moss will be returning in a white colorway.  Pyer Moss was founded in 2013 by Kerby Jean-Raymond. Jean-Raymond describes the brand as an “art project” or “a timely social experiment” at times. Pyer Moss aims to use its voice and platform to challenge social narratives and evoke dialogue.

Pyer Moss continues to redefine itself every season with collections and runways that combine storytelling, activism, debate, theatre and social commentary; all while using collaboration with artists and brands as a medium to further the dialogue around seasonal themes. Continue reading

PARIS GOOD FASHION

Following the launch of the sustainable initiative Paris Good Fashion in January, founder Isabelle Lefort received a flood of reactions to the project, which was sparked by the city of Paris and supported by the Institut Français de la mode, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and the Galeries Lafayette.

Six months later, Kering, Chanel, Richemont and SMCP are also now on board, as well as both the French couture and ready-to-wear federations, textile trade show Première Vision and even fashion model Arizona Muse.

"It revealed there has clearly been a global awakening, but now everyone needs to sit round a table to discuss and exchange ideas for concrete actions’s Continue reading

KENZO GOOD BYE, LES LIM

Carol Lim and Humberto Leon were bidding a poignant farewell after nearly a decade as creative directors. The moving retrospective, which opened and closed the show, was choreographed by Léo Lerus. Some 5,000 guests attended, including members of the public, fashion students and Kenzo staff.

Fluttery strips of fabric, like little waves, lined the front and back of a navy dress, while halter tops with puff sleeves had a liquid sheen. One hoodie came with a toile de jouy like design and a big sailing ship, while sailor collars or fishing net panels adorned jackets.

This farewell should have come as no surprise to those familiar with Lim and Leon, whose shows have long included live bands, dance troupes and traditional Japanese theater, in a nod to the house’s founder, Kenzo Takada. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has so far been mum on its succession plan in order not to taint Leon and Lim’s final show.

But according to sources, Kenzo is zeroing in on a contract with Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who last year wrapped an eight-year tenure as creative director of Lacoste. Continue reading

FIRST DAY PFW BY OFF WHITE

Off-White opened the second day of Paris Fashion Week with a controversial show. The subject of the debate wasn’t the clothes but the end of the presentation. Rewind.

The set was a huge stage mounted inside the Carreau du Temple made of plywood: people were sitting all around a big flower bed with musk and white carnations.

But the finale shook up the entire audience. The models came out in groups stomping on the flowers and devastating the bucolic atmosphere. We could naively interpret this as bad boys that violate the “keep off the grass” sign. Continue reading