CHAKRA L’HOMME QUI AIME LES FEMMES
BRUNO SIALELLI NEW DESINER AT LANVIN
Lanvin has appointed Bruno Sialelli artistic director, signaling new direction for the historic French house. “His singular and very personal vision, his audacity, his culture, his energy and ability to build a strong creative team definitely convinced us,” said Lanvin chief executive officer Jean-Philippe Hecquet.
The Fosun Fashion Group-owned label cited the designer’s “youthful translation” of its storied heritage along with his ability to navigate between men’s and women’s wear among reasons for settling on the designer in a process that involved an “incredible array” of candidates for the position.The former Loewe men’s wear designer worked under the direction of J.W. Anderson. He has also worked at Balenciaga, with Nicolas Ghesquière and Alexander Wang, as well as Acne Studios, where he was the senior designer for women’s wear, and Paco Rabanne. Continue reading
JACQUEMUS PARIS 2019
After launching men’s wear on a beach in the South of France last June, Simon Porte Jacquemus, is back to Paris. His new headquarters is four times bigger and he is entering a transitional phase as the brand grows. 69 Quai de Valmy, 75010 Paris
Simon Porte Jacquemus grew up in the countryside in Provence. He comes from a family of farmers and when he was a kid, he was fascinated by his dungarees which looked like a uniform. Continue reading
THOM BROWNE DOGGY BAG
VUITTON SMOKES MARIJUANA IN PARIS
It is bingo for Bernard Arnault. He has bet on a new afro-american designer, Virgil Abloh. Yesterday he attended with his two sons at the front row. During the show there was a smell of marijuana. He was a choc between two worlds, as if a family of Boston was meeting an afro-american of Harlem. The mix gave a stunning collection. Continue reading
CEO BUT ALSO NEW HUSBAND
Tory Burch and Pierre-Yves Roussel have joined forces at work and at home. Tory Burch (née Robinson; born June 17, 1966) is an American fashion designer, businesswomant.
On Tuesday Tory Burch named Pierre-Yves Roussel, a former LVMH Moët Hennessey Louis Vuitton executive, as her chief executive, moving herself into the role of chief creative officer and executive chairman. That Mr. Roussel also happens to be her new husband (they were married in November after becoming engaged in 2016) is both par for the course in the industry and something of a redesign.
And while Ms. Burch has been both C.E.O. and designer since founding her brand in 2004, increasingly conventional wisdom has it that it is better for a leader to focus on one area than try to be all things to all parts of their brand (see: Christopher Bailey and his brief experiment with being both chief creative officer and C.E.O. of Burberry). Continue reading
HERON PRESTON OPENS PARIS FASHION
Streetwear on the runways of Paris has always been that vision that I’ve shared with my friends, the ultimate opportunity to present some new fresh ideas in a city and platform that we have always looked up to,” said Heron Preston, who today at the Palais de Tokyo will present the first runway show of his namesake label, as part of the official calendar of Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Call him a quick learner. Preston, who was “raised” by the skate culture in San Francisco where he grew up, and who first started making noise in 2012 with his art-project bootleg spins on the Givenchy Rottweiler T-shirt, said that it was only around four years ago, when he started working with Kanye West, that he was introduced to the world of Paris fashion.
A former art director for West, Preston who’s considered a post-Internet Renaissance man worked at Nike and was also a part of the Been Trill art and DJ collective with Virgil Abloh, Justin Saunders and Matthew Williams. Continue reading
VUITTON TRANSGENDER SHOW
Nicolas Ghesquière showcased his designs on stars ranging from Jennifer Connelly and Chloë Grace Moretz to transgender actress Indya Moore. Louis Vuitton has tapped an all-star cast for its pre-fall look book, cementing a growing trend for pre-collections traditionally viewed as commercial filler between runway shows to act as major communications platforms for luxury brands. Continue reading
PRADA MENSWEAR 2019 MILAN
GLAMOUR IS OVER
As canal-luxe first reported in September, the 80 year old beauty glossy magazine is ceasing to be a traditional print publication at the start of 2019. The move comes as a surprise to no one as simply looking at the latest issue of the magazine, pamphlet size at barely more than 100 pages with roughly 40 pages of third-party ads, is a clear indicator that things in print are far from what they once were.
Glamour for many decades was a huge money-maker for Condé, frequently referred to internally as the publisher’s “cash cow.” Payments for placements and ads poured in from the beauty industry, making the magazine’s shift away from print all the more striking. Beauty brands have been some of the fastest to adapt and thrive in the Instagram age of advertising none need the approval of a magazine editor when they can have an cadre of influencers posting praise of products. Continue reading
BEYOND CLOSET KOREA FLORENCE 2019
MOSCHINO MENSWEAR 2019 ROME
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN LONDON 2019
Christopher Raeburn’s is celebrating his 10 years in business in which many of his contemporaries have fallen by the wayside. In large part, that’s doubtlessly due to the bracing reality of the clothes he creates: functional, intelligible, simple, desirable. But his philosophy – to make fashion in a responsible, open, and transparent way has gone from being a fringe concern to becoming a core part of the industry’s conversations with itself, and with a wider world. His anniversary show was dedicated to Raeburn’s greatest hits utility-focused outerwear, no-nonsence knits, streamlined joggers.
But there was a new, heightened transparency during the show quite literally, in the case of clear nylon puffer jackets, filled with multicoloured fabric offcuts, in taped-seam outerwear and cashmere sweaters patchworked with recycled knits.There might have been other, more visually futuristic collections on show yesterday, but Raeburn was perhaps offering the most Continue reading
GOLDEN HORRIBLE RED CARPET
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY LONDON 2019
NEW FAUX FUR COATS
Last year, an unprecedented number of fashion maisons – Gucci, Givenchy, and Michael Kors among them – decided to stop producing fur coats. With a brand new year ahead, now is the chance to pick up a new faux fur, Continue reading
DIOR’S WINDOW AT HARRODS
Dior celebrates the festive season where magical window scenarios, lighting and paper creations come together elegantly with a nod to their destination through iconic landscape representations such as the London Eye for Dior’s windows at Harrods.
There were two places I wanted to go during childhood visits to London: Hamley’s toy shop and Harrods, where the Brompton road windows seemed to expand into infinity and which still ignite in me a kind of happy retail hysteria. I wasn’t disappointed, then, last week when I happened upon these cracking displays by fashion house Dior.
It’s all part of “Dior at Harrods,” a spring salad of British retail ingenuity topped with French dressing that will keep until April 14. Continue reading
MOZAMBIQUE FASHION WEEK
MARINE DEVOS AND BIJORHCA
The Reed Expositions group entrusted Marine Devos with the management of Bijorhca Paris, the Jewelry trade show.
Marine Devos, who began her career 17 years ago in the tradeshows circuit, will officially succeed Aude Leperre on December 9, 2018. She will work under the direction of Jean-François Quentin, newly appointed Director of the Hospitality, Catering, Franchising, Jewelry and Technology. Continue reading
RICHEMONT JOINS ALIBABA’S
Compagnie Financière Richemont has become the latest international corporation to join Alibaba’s Anti-Counterfeiting Alliance, which aims to protect intellectual property rights on the e-commerce giant’s platforms.
Alibaba said this week that Richemont is now among 115 members from 16 countries and regions that are part of the AACA. Richemont said it would share its technology, expertise and other information to support the Alliance’s efforts.
Richemont has long been an anti-counterfeit crusader, with a robust in-house legal team that has gone after watch and jewelry counterfeiters and the sales platforms that sell their goods.
Richemont, New Balance, General Motors and McDonald’s, are the latest global brands to join the AACA, according to Alibaba. The alliance’s membership has more than tripled from the original 30 founding brands at its launch in 2017. Continue reading
KARL SKIES IN COURCHEVEL
Chanel has opened the door of the prestigious ski resort of Courchevel in the French Alps.
Far from Hamburg, the Kaiser promotes the boutique the most chic of south of France. Courchevel is similar to St Tropez. Let’s hope that Karl will not lose Choupette in the snow !
Between now and the end of April 2019, skiers will have the opportunity to shop for the brand’s famous handbags 255 and outfits, when they are not busy on the slopes or gorging in the village’s restaurants. 1600-square-foot space will also have a wide range of accessories, shoes, watches, and jewelry. Continue reading
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SCHEDULE
The next New York Fashion Week will see a dual-gender Tom Ford show bridge the official men’s and women’s calendars.
The Council of Fashion Designers of America released a preliminary schedule Tuesday night that includes Ford at 8:00 p.m. on Wednesday, Feb. 6, the last of the three-day men’s-specific schedule. His show will be co-ed, however. Continue reading
MY NAME IS BOND STREET
Cartier is stepping into its retail future, as it reopens the doors to its revamped London flagship on New Bond Street.
The boutique which is the result of an ambitious nine-month renovation project and even more years of planning offers an elegant and luxurious space that resembles a home and an exhibition space, as much as it does a shop floor.
"If you compare the historical boutique with the one we are opening, the base might be the same, but one has nothing to do with the other," said Laurent Feniou, Cartier’s U.K. managing director, during an interview. He added that the company has moved its London offices from Bond Street to Regent Street as part of the revamp process in order to dedicate the whole building to retail and reimagine what its London flagship can look like.
In line with Cartier’s overall ethos of marrying tradition and modernity, the new space emphasizes some of the listed building’s original features, including wooden panels and a grand wooden staircase that was previously hidden away. Continue reading