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OWENS GREAT BALLS OF FIRE
The end of the world is depicted in Apocalypse Now and End of Days by Rick Owens. Three orbs about two meters across were set on fire, and then slowly raised high above us, then dropped to a sizzling impact in the fountain of the Palais de Tokyo.
The great balls of fire represent suns, arcing across the sky, and crashing to the ground.
Owens had been in Egypt and named the collection Edfu, after the site of the Ptolemaic Temple of Horus. However the only literal souvenirs of that journey on the runway today were the three top-to-toe tulle looks near the end.
Owens tweaked his own codes today, introducing a flared-upper version of his killer platform boot. Another novelty was technical wear, delivered in the loose pants, shirts, and inverted jackets cut in gray ripstop nylon shot through with Dyneema, a fiber Owens said was “apparently one of the strongest in the world.
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WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK’C
It was a show of his greatest hits. The Théâtre de la Madeleine was the place to see Walter Van Beirendonck’s fine tailoring, madcap prints, and sportswear elements for spring 2023.
A host of black ghost-like forms first appeared on the dark stage. As one by one, these dress fell off, revealing Beirendonck’s models.
It had wing-like sleeves and a gold color. Over a cotton shirt with ruffled sleeves and black suit pants, a black suit jacket was transformed into a vest. The necks were embellished with chunky sun charms, in reality a “fraise” that my neighbor calls neck jewel, which was at the beginning of the 16th century adopted in most of Europe it is the ancestor of all the collars, ruffles, ties, and collars that abound during the following centuries.
GIVENCHY THE WHITE CUBE
Men’s fashion week in Milan or Paris is one of the most anticipated events of the year! One of the leading European brands uncoupling from coed shows is Givenchy. This afternoon, outdoor display at École Militaire, a complex of grandiose 18th-century buildings not far from the Eiffel Tower, maybe a story about Ukraine.
MILAN FASHION WEEK
Before Paris, fashion week the most sleeping fashion week in EU, It was terrific to be back in Milan.
We saw the real strength of collections that epitomize the craftsmanship, creativity and supreme quality of the 'made in Italy moniker. There was an assertion of brands here doing what they do best, representing tradition with great development and forward thinking.
Designers opted for a more modern, nonchalant take on suits, often offered as separates. Soft fabrics and comfort were key, as was lightness and a sense of freedom and ease. There’s an underlying message about having fun getting dressed again.
Denim is back, washed and faded and in a new relaxed version no sign of stretch or body-hugging styles anywhere. Refreshing color palettes and plenty of Bermuda shorts contributed to the summery feel of the looks. Trends included fuller proportions, light knitwear and innovative luxurious fabrics.
THE DUKE OF ARMANI
Regé-Jean page Duke of Hastings has given to Armani the new Code of the men’s fragrance franchise launched 18 years ago, a new look and a new fragrance.Manu Cossu and Damon Baker are directing and shooting the campaign. It debuts in September.
The actor Regé-jean page after Audi, will star in a spot for Armani Code in December 2020, in which everything goes backwards. There are people walking the wrong way around, clock hands circling counterclockwise, and basketball players propelling themselves in reverse.
Despite this, Page continues to walk and run through the streets until he comes across a woman. As they gaze at each other, they catch a glimpse of the Armani Code Parfum bottle, and the world seems to turn around.
PRADA IMPACT ZERO
Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada were similarly enamored, dedicating much of their spring shows to short leather and denim shorts, with bare legs ending in cowboy boots with pointed toes, souvenir of Raf’s childhood and Macadam Cowboy, maybe
LECOANET HEMANT THE ART OF WEAVING THE DREAM
It is like a sun that suddenly breaks through the clouds to reveal a landscape or when a city flooded with light is transformed in one second, and so everything changes so that nothing changes.
Haute Couture transfigures not the real, but the perception we have of it. And it is in the city of lace and fashion of Calais that we are offered the first retrospective exhibition devoted to the house Lecoanet Hemant. By revealing more than 80 models of creation, combining the art of French couture to the spirit of the East, we can thus dive back into the poetry ride, and the secret garden of the two artists …
Like a magic note played on the silver string of a heart in summer, the caress of the eyes, all on Calais, a message that delivers the ineffable and exhilarating secrets of the past.
They are a duo of elusive globetrotters who bring back the many messages of the world around us, sometimes it is also poetry with them as with Franck Sorbier, and they show us a path that I particularly like. They often take us into an imaginary dream that is the reality of Rajasthan where princes and precious stones were one. Where the most precious culture of luxury was born, and which today exists nowhere else.
CHAPTER 11 FOR REVLON
The 90-year-old New York-based beauty company, whose brands include namesake Revlon, Elizabeth Arden and Almay, has been struggling with a hefty pile of debt listed as $3.7 billion that it spent much of 2020 renegotiating, which enabled it to avoid a more formal restructuring process then. But supply chain issues, soaring inflation and increased competition from the likes of The Estée Lauder Cos. and Coty Inc. and a plethora of digital start-ups have only exacerbated the situation, and these factors combined with loans coming up for renewal forced it to once again consider bankruptcy.
Today’s filing will allow Revlon to offer our consumers the iconic products we have delivered for decades, while providing a clearer path for our future growth.
In the filing, Revlon stated that it is receiving a $575 million in debtor-in-possession financing from its existing lender base, which in addition to the existing working capital facility, will provide liquidity to support day-to-day operations.
VTMBTS SPRING 2023
While visiting Zurich airport to scout locations for a Vetements photo shoot, Guram Gvasalia spotted a building under construction with rows of white, industrial beams slanting over a triangular void.
AHLUWALIA LONDON 2023
The label combines elements from the designer’s dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots. It explores the potential of vintage and surplus clothing by giving existing material a new life through various textile and patchwork techniques. This means that many Ahluwalia pieces are one of a kind.
Inspired by art, music and literature, much of the work created by Ahluwalia go beyond her collections and include collaborative campaigns, books and films.
Ahluwalia is deemed as a pioneer in the fashion industry and is regularly featured in press from all over the world, from the New York Times and i-D to Vogue and many more.
Ahluwalia is available in renowned stores worldwide, including Matches Fashion, Browns, Bergdorf Goodman, Ssense and Nordstrom.
GUCCI JEWELRY
Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele is still amazed by the trajectory of this particular brand segment in presenting the brand’s third high jewelry collection.
Jewels are alive, I wanted them back to real life. They mark major milestones in our lives. In addition to wearing them on the runway, I wear them everywhere I go, at work, for breakfast, on the street,” he continued, pointing out Gucci’s innovative step by presenting high jewelry designs alongside ready-to-wear.
According to Michele, the campaign art directed by Ezra Petronio and shot by Mert Marcus may seem counterintuitive, since the jewels are one-of-a-kind and may already be unavailable before the campaign is over.
He aims to create an imaginary world around the jewels by creating “unique and special pieces”. To wit, this collection is divided according to five themes. Continue reading
GUCCI HOUSE OF CARDS
After achieving its previous revenue target of 10 billion euros in 2021, Gucci has set its sights on revenues of 15 billion euros. Comparatively, Louis Vuitton, owned by rival French conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, generated revenues of 16.7 billion euros in 2021.
BREAKFAST AT CHRISTIE’S
Christie’s is set to auction de Givenchy’s estate in Paris next week, highlighting the eye of the designer and ambassador for French taste as Givenchy celebrates its 70th anniversary.
EMILO PUCCI WATERZOÏ
As the Florentine brand transitions to a see now, buy now presentation model and frequent product drops, she is expected to take the management helm in July.
LVMH Pucci’s parent company, said Debrouwere had been tasked with accelerating the brand’s development by combining Pucci’s lifestyle and resort roots with the creative modernity of Camille Miceli.
In a fashion-week-free weekend of lunches, yoga classes, and partying, Miceli unveiled her first designs for Pucci last April on Capri, the jet-set island where Emilio Pucci opened his first boutique in 1951.
THE CARBON FOOTPRINT OF LUXURY
After Elon Musk, Internet users can now follow the journeys of the personal plane of the prince of luxury. For several days, a website highlights the extremely polluting, and sometimes even useless, travels of the Lord, president of “Mouette and Psy”.
Indeed, the account reveals impressive CO2 emissions. Last month the private jet spent 176 tons of CO2, it means 17 years of consumption for an average French person. The CEO of the group owns a private jet “Bombardier Global Express” at an estimated value of 48M€, without options. Combining performance and comfort, this business jet is considered as one of the most efficient private jets in the world. It has a range of 13,000 km, allowing it to fly internationally to its 54-square kilometer island paradise in Bahamas.
SKKN HIGHT PRICE FOR LOW CARE
It’s no surprise that Kim Kardashian’s new skin care brand, Skkn by Kim, has generated buzz. The line is also under scrutiny due to its price tag of $630 for a nine-step routine consisting of a toner, exfoliator, hyaluronic acid serum, vitamin C8 serum, face cream, eye cream, oil drops and night oil.
Kardashian’s line may not be available in your nearest drugstore, but it is actually quite affordable compared to some other skin care brands.
Those interested and with deep enough pockets can check out beauty’s most expensive skin care routines. Prepare to spend. But everyone knows that the margins are colossal, and that the same factories manufacture the same product whether it is Farmasi or KKS. So think about it before spending thousands of dollars.
SEPHORA BROKE THE MANAGER
The only hamburger that the lord loves was Karl Lagerfeld. As of the end of the month, Martin Brok, who was appointed CEO and president in September 2020, will depart from the company. LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s chairman and CEO, Chris de Lapuente, who also oversees the group’s Perfumes and Cosmetics activities, will serve as president and chief executive officer of Sephora.
I have no comment, but according to an internal release obtained Brok’s departure is “due to a divergence of views.” Would the relationship with the lord be difficult?
Brok prior to that he was at Nike for eight years, where he oversaw the company’s direct to consumer business and was vice president of global product and merchandising operations and analytics.
His departure comes at a critical moment for Sephora, the only prestige beauty retailer with a global presence. Employment, how do you explain the labor shortage that threatens several sectors?
THE CIRCLE BUSINESS BY LVMH
British designer Steven Stokey-Daley, 25, has captured hearts and minds with his theatrical shows at London Fashion Week that view the British class system through a queer lens, gaining high-profile fans including Harry Styles, who wore his graduate collection in his “Golden” music video.
Oscar-winning actress Cate Blanchett revealed the winner at the Louis Vuitton Foundation in the presence of jury members including Kim Jones; Maria Grazia Chiuri; Nigo, the new artistic director of Kenzo; Silvia Venturini Fendi; Stella McCartney; Nicolas Ghesquière; Jonathan Anderson, and Delphine Arnault, the force behind the prize and a key talent scout at luxury giant LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
The Nigerian-born, London-raised designer Idris Balogun impressed the judges with his menswear brand Winnie, rooted in his experience as an apprentice on London’s exclusive Savile Row, and as a senior menswear designer for Burberry and Tom Ford.
The jury was moved by the mettle of a group of designers emerging in the midst of a global pandemic.
VIRGIL POST MORTEM
Vuitton announced Tuesday that it would stage a spin-off show in Thailand’s capital on June 1 at 7:30 p.m. local time. It is to be livestreamed on the brand’s website. In the original fall 2022 collection, nine never-before-seen pieces explore three ideas: the coming-of-age theme, the global perspective and the circle of creativity through circular motifs.
TIFFANY AND COLOR
Tiffany & Co’s new pop-up in Paris is hard to resist describing as a jewel box. With its circular rooms laid out like a couple of engagement rings or a drop earring, the boutique at 34 Avenue Montaigne serves as a mini museum and calling card for the American firm’s fine and high jewelry, as only gold and diamond baubles are available here.
Saturday marked the opening of the 650-square-foot space for a one-year residency. It used to be occupied by Dior Joaillerie, which moved into the Dior megastore across the street earlier this year.
Visitors wander through the archives, which are displayed under glass pyramids or in cases embedded in the walls and which display digital images and historical information. Upon viewing the jewelry set the eye is drawn to the densely stacked pearls, an unsigned design from Tiffany and Co. cofounder Charles Lewis Tiffany’s and JB Young’s heyday when they were selling fancy goods on Broadway in New York City as well as the elaborate gold charm depicting the Arc de Triomphe. Continue reading
CAVALLI 2023 RESORT
Since his appointment as creative consultant two years ago, Fausto Puglisi has been proving that the animal-printed universe of Roberto Cavalli suits.
Not only did the Sicilian designer help to rev up the label and put it back in the spotlight, with celebrities from Megan Thee Stallion to Dua Lipa but he seems to have cracked the code of making its strong identity and signature seductive aesthetics relevant for today
COCO FASHION MANIFESTO
Following the storming success of the “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams” exhibition, Chanel will do a exhibition for September 2023.
“Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto” will be the first U.K. exhibition dedicated to the work of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. It will look to chart the evolution of Chanel’s designs from the opening of her first millinery boutique in Paris in 1910, to the show of her final collection in 1971. 180 looks seen together for the first time, the exhibition will explore the designer’s democratic, offbeat approach to fashion, which paved the way for a new way of dressing.
Key pieces on display will include outfits created for British model Anne Gunning (later Lady Nutting) and Hollywood actresses Lauren Bacall and Marlene Dietrich.
Through eight themed sections, the exhibition will explore Chanel’s innovative approach to fabric, silhouette and construction and will examine how she drafted a new framework for fashion in the 20th century. Continue reading
CHANEL NO MORE RUSSIA
The retailer grew by double digits in the first five months of the year as strong sales in other parts of the world compensated for the closure of stores in Russia and China.
Chanel earns less than 1.5 percent of its revenue from Russia. There are 31 percent Chanel employees still under lockdown in mainland China. Five of its 16 boutiques there have closed, and 35 fragrance and beauty stores, roughly equivalent to a third of its network, have also been shuttered.
We’ve maintained our momentum despite the headwinds and uncertainties we face. Chanel outperformed competitors such as Kering, which reported an organic sales increase of 13 percent compared to 2019. Profitability at Chanel, which is privately owned and run by the Wertheimer family, improved significantly. A margin of 34.9 percent was logged, up from 20.3 percent in 2020.
Chanel announced in March that it was increasing the price of its four core handbag styles and spring rtw collection in multiple regions. Since the start of the Coronavirus pandemic, Chanel has raised its prices six times, including an adjustment last November.