HEARST AND THE EARTH

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I wanna see bags and dresses, not bees reads one comment on Chloé’s Instagram account, which was recently scrubbed clean to make way for a radical visual narrative, so far focused on insects, plants, fruits and the occasional freckled nose.

To be sure, some of the French brand’s 9.5 million followers on the photo-sharing platform wondered if its account had been hacked, with users describing the nature closeups as super strange, stupid or weird.

Over Zoom on Friday, Chloé’s creative director Gabriela Hearst cited a deep and ambitious reason: A wish to rewire people’s brains and reconnect them to all the things the planet gives us.

It’s healing, she said. I feel that it’s doing something we never thought we could do on social media. It does have this healing vision for the eyes, as we go through the journey together of understanding where things come from. Continue reading →

GUCCI NEXT SHOW L.A

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Michele will present his next collection for Gucci with an in-person fashion show in Los Angeles on Nov. 3. The show will coincide with the occasion of the 10th LACMA Art+Film Gala, taking place on Nov. 6, for which Gucci is the founding and presenting sponsor.

Michele, however, has now changed the pace of Gucci's collections. In 2020, five years after his debut at the fashion house, in the midst of the global pandemic, the designer decided to abandon what he has called “the worn-out ritual of seasonalities and shows to regain a new cadence, closer to my expressive call. We will meet just twice a year, to share the chapters of a new story.” He conceived new names for the collections, inspired by the music world.

After Epilogue, the conclusive chapter of Michele's previous narrative, presented in July last year during Milan Digital Fashion Week, Michele directed with Gus Van Sant a series of seven episodes for his collection “Ouverture of Something That Never Ended” shown in November 2020, tapping the likes of Billie Eilish, Harry Styles and Florence Welch, among others.

On the occasion, the designer told that he felt “free,” giving “a natural rhythm” to the collections. “Of course, there is more responsibility in this self-pacing, and I want to be attentive to the company and position the brand in a respectful way. Continue reading →

VANS DIED AT 90

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Paul Van Doren has died at age 90. Born in Depression-era Randolph, Mass., he moved to sunny Southern California in the 1960s, where he built a checkerboard shoe empire that harnessed the power of skate and surf culture to become a global streetwear player with a little help from the cult Hollywood film “Fast Times at Ridgemont High and actor Sean Penn, who wore the classic Vans checkerboard slip-on sneaker on-screen and sent its popularity soaring. Continue reading →

GUCCI A FAMILY SAGA

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Gucci marks its centenary in 2021, passing through family feuds, take-over attempts, a near-bankruptcy, a public listing, storybook turnarounds and even a murder which has sparked the Ridley Scott film “House of Gucci” Just like the long-lived mythological phoenix, Gucci has cyclically regenerated, reaching its centenary in 2021.

Guccio Gucci, who in 1897 found work at London’s prestigious Savoy Hotel as a bellboy. Famously, the tale goes that he was inspired to create his company by the luxurious suitcases and trunks carried by the aristocrats staying at the hotel. In 1921, Gucci’s first stores opened in Florence, where he founded the company. The boutique in Rome’s luxury shopping street Via Condotti opened in 1938.

As a result of a League of Nations embargo against Italy, Gucci he found alternatives to imported leather and other materials in the 1935-1936 period, developing a specially woven hemp from Naples, printed with the first signature print. Continue reading →

UMOJA SNIKER

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The young brand Umòja is launching Mmea, a sneaker designed between France, Burkina Faso and Portugal, featuring traditional know-how.

Combining traditional know-how and innovative raw materials, Lancine Koulibaly and Dieuveil Ngoubou, founders of the brand have been thinking about creating a shoe that is “100% traceable, from the lace to the eyelet” since 2018. The two collaborators then looked for partners capable of designing all the elements of a shoe from eco-friendly materials.

In 2021, the results are in: the Mmea shoe, which means plant in the Swahili language, is composed of an upper made of organic raw cotton, hand-woven in Burkina Faso. The outsole is made of hevea milk, designed by a Lyon-based company that has also developed hevea foam reinforcements for Umòja. The midsole, the reinforcements and the heel are made of hemp fiber and come from Rouen.

Finally, the braids and laces are made of linen and everything is assembled in Portugal with a natural latex glue. According to Lancine Koulibaly, the shoe can go into industrial compost. Continue reading →

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

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The Ermenegildo Zegna Group is taking another step toward a more sustainable future.
The Italian men’s wear company has signed a deal with Stellantis, the Amsterdam-based automotive company created in 2021 from the merger between Italian-American Fiat Chrysler Automobiles and French PSA Group, to develop a sustainable mobility program.

Zegna Group will implement a strategy to make its company’s fleet, which \ includes 200 cars, fully green by 2025 by progressively introducing plug-in hybrid and full electric vehicles to significantly reduce CO2 emissions and air pollution.

According to Stellantis CEO Carlos Tavares, the car company will put at the disposal of Zegna 30 different models between affordable plug-in hybrid and battery electric vehicles.

Today’s announcement is a perfect illustration of the capacity of Stellantis to support the Zegna Group toward a zero emission objective for its employees and its supply chain, with state of the art green cars; said Stellantis chairman John Elkann. “Today, environmental, social and corporate governance is at the core of every responsible management decision and it is our common objective to demonstrate that companies have a clear role to behave against global warming. Continue reading →

RITZ AND CHANEL SIDE BY SIDE

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François Perret, head pastry chef at the Ritz Paris, is opening a street-facing shop to make his sweet treats available to a wider audience. The star Perret of the Netflix series “The Chef in a Truck,” is bringing his sweet treats to a wider audience with the opening of a street-facing pastry shop at the Ritz hotel in Paris next month.

Wearing a white chef’s jacket and a surgical face mask, as he surveyed construction work at Ritz Paris Le Comptoir, the gourmet boutique with a white-and-peach interior that is due to open its doors on June 7 at 38 Rue Cambon, a stone’s throw from the historic Chanel flagship. Continue reading →

CHINESE SOON MASTER OF THE LUXE

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Fosun Fashion Group, the Chinese owner of Lanvin, Wolford, St. John and Caruso, has formed a strategic alliance with e-commerce firm Baozun, Activation Group and other industry players to strengthen its ability to capture China’s fast-growing demand for luxury brands.

As a part of the partnership, Baozun and Activation will both become minority shareholders in Fosun Fashion Group, and the preferred partners for all brands in FFG’s portfolio, as well as in exploring new business models and solutions for brand expansion.

Fosun’s unprecedented alliance in China is also a sign of further consolidation in the luxury sector that ‘s been accelerated by the pandemic. Traditional competitors are now joining hands to protect their shared interests.

Last November, Farfetch inked a mega partnership deal with Alibaba and Compagnie Financière Richemont. Kering’s Pinault family is also putting funds into the new luxury retail venture that’s targeting China’s online luxury market. Continue reading →

PANDEMIC AFFECTS PUIG PROFITS IN 2020

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It was the first time in recent history that Puig closed a year with a loss. Due to lockdowns and social distancing, consumption of fragrance, makeup and fashion, but the Spanish family-owned beauty and fashion company expects its business to amp up, and aims for sales to double in three years and triple in five years.

In the 12 months ended Dec. 31, 2020, the Barcelona-based group posted a net loss of 70 million euros, versus a gain of 226 million euros in 2019. Profit before tax came in at minus 72 million euros, against an increase of 304 million euros in the prior year.

There are two big changes in the industry the smartphone revolution and China,” the company’s portfolio has historically been heavily skewed toward fragrance, which is invisible, thus not seen in the ubiquitous online selfie culture, and has grown less quickly than the skin care and makeup categories.

BUILGARI NEW FRAGRANCES

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The Allegra collection of five fragrances comes with Magnifying essences enabling customers to personalize their perfumes. Bulgari Taps Into the Customization Trend With New Fragrances

Long gone are the days when Bulgari hosted lavish parties across Italian dreamy destinations and venues. The company’s physical events might be a victim of the pandemic, but the Roman jewelry house instilled its passion for conveying the multiple facets of the Italian lifestyle in its new collection of fragrances, called Allegra or joyous in English.

Allegra can resonate with many types of customers, as it was designed to evoke Italian experiences and emotions via different olfactory families, ranging from floral-oriental scents that for Gonzalez Sebastiani could appeal to European and Middle Eastern clients, to citrusy fragrances that could work best for the Chinese and American clientele. Continue reading →

FASHION MERCATO 2021

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Designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista who brought a sophisticated and artistic touch to Kenzo over a two-year stint is to step down from his role of artistic director, and his exit from the Paris-based fashion house, will take effect on June 30 when his employment contract will arrive at its term.

Sylvie Colin, chief executive officer of Kenzo, expressed her gratitude to the designer “for his talent, creativity and contribution to the artistic development of our house.”

It is understood a successor will be named in due course, and that the brand is likely to pursue a new direction.

Oliveira Baptista was partial to enveloping, nomadic silhouettes, and had returned the brand to the women’s calendar of Paris Fashion Week. His tenure coincided with the death last October of founder Kenzo Takada, due to complications from COVID-19, and he let color, pattern and energy erupt on the runway for fall 2021 as an ode to the Japanese fashion maverick. Continue reading →

ALBER ELBAZ DIES AT 59

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His death, due to COVID-19, was confirmed by Compagnie Financière Richemont, his joint venture partner in AZ Factory, his latest fashion venture.

Alber had a richly deserved reputation as one of the industry's brightest and most beloved figures. I was always taken by his intelligence, sensitivity, generosity and unbridled creativity," Rupert said. "He was a man of exceptional warmth and talent, and his singular vision, sense of beauty and empathy leave an indelible impression. Continue reading →

HERMES WHAT ESLE

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The figures add to evidence the luxury sector is on the upswing, Hermès reported that first-quarter revenue jumped 44 percent, at constant rates, beating expectations and fueling optimism for leaders in the sector.

This is a confirmation of a buoyant luxury goods demand environment worldwide, following recent reports from luxury peers LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Kering, as well as an uptick in exports of Swiss watches in March.

Asia was feeling the full brunt of the coronavirus crisis this season last year. But even as the second and third quarters bring tougher comparisons in Asia, they will become less challenging in Europe and the Americas where business declined at a later stage last year. Continue reading →

MY FAVORITE DESIGNER

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Brunello Cucinelli has long spoken of his admiration for Amazon founder Jeff Bezos, who he has hosted on several occasions to talk about humanity and the future. But who does he admire among his fellow designers?

My favorite designers,  Ralph Lauren , Giorgio Armani and Yohji Yamamoto.

Ralph Lauren tops the list, "a great master, who has created a visual merchandising unique in the world, Cucinelli said of the American designer, whom he met in 2019. He has always been a true, great inspiration for me,Cucinelli said.

Cucinelli described Giorgio Armani as "a genius," and also pointed to Yohji Yamamoto and "his shapes that are the most fascinating that I have ever known," and Chanel.

"You create style through ready-to-wear," continued Cucinelli, whose business mainly relies on apparel, "and I have been inspired by the big names that have a recognizable taste that lasts in time. [King] Edward VIII believed in a certain pleasure in dressing well, and his taste is still recognizable after so many years. Continue reading →

LVMH, RICHEMONT AND PRADA JOIN FORCES

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Three European rivals are joining forces in an unprecedented collaboration to help consumers trace the provenance and authenticity of luxury goods. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which in 2019 initiated the Aura platform, will be joined by Prada Group and Compagnie Financière Richemont in the Aura Blockchain Consortium, which will promote the use of a single blockchain solution open to all luxury brands worldwide.

Bulgari, Cartier, Hublot, Louis Vuitton and Prada are already keyed into the platform, which will give consumers direct access to a product’s history, proof of ownership, warranty and maintenance record.

According to a joint release revealing the creation of the consortium, it is in advanced discussions with several independent brands, and "brands within founder groups; to join soon since the blockchain offers flexibility to support companies of various sizes and to adapt to individual needs. Continue reading →

KANAE PASSED AWAY

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Kanae Taniwaki is entering the Pantheon of Haute Couture. This man, so discreet, came to France under the impulse of Jacques Mouclier with Kenzo, Issey Miyake, Yijo Yamamoto. He was the eminence grise of Loris Azzaro and was also the best Premier d’Atelier at Franck Sorbier.

Here is the last of the Samurai of Haute Couture who passes away. He knew all the stitches and techniques, and he was a master in the art of converting a fabric into a straight thread for a full bias garment. Like an open book on the past and on the future, he was at the same time breathing humanity. Professor at Esmod International de Haute Couture, the students he had, including my daughter, speak of him with affection and emotion.

When a loved one has just passed away, one feels the loss darkly, but the present death is disconcerting and the stupefaction closes the soul and the mouth. Incredulously at this grief, one looks at the bottom of the grave, without understanding anything, this coffin which is going to vanish under the surface of a world which was for him so poetic. It is to the first sight of his family that the fashion around his last podium will say goodbye. Continue reading →

SHANGHAI INSTITUTE OF VISUAL ARTS

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Founded in September, 2005, Shanghai Institute of Visual Arts is a university offering undergraduate programs distinctive for art nature. Mainly invested by state-owned enterprises,it is also sponsored by other social capital. It was affiliated to Fudan University in its initial stage. After eight years of development, it because independent of Fudan University in April, 2013 with the ratification of the Ministry of Education. Continue reading →

AIR OF TIME BY PUIG

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Nina Ricci Closes Historic Flagship Boutique in Paris, owned by Spanish fragrance and fashion group Puig, the brand is pivoting to a digital-first.

The brand, founded in 1932 and known for its bestselling fragrances, including L’Air du Temps, is expected to launch an e-commerce site this fall. Ricci is carried by around 80 retailers worldwide, including Le Bon Marché, Printemps, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Isetan, Joyce and Lane Crawford. It is also sold online via Net-a-porter, Farfetch and Ssense.

The store, opened in 1979, will be taken over by Paco Rabanne which, like Nina Ricci, belongs to Spanish fragrance and fashion group Puig, the parent company of brands including Carolina Herrera, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries Van Noten and Penhaligon’s.

The boutique at 39 Avenue Montaigne, across the street from Dior, is closed and its windows are covered with stickers bearing the Paco Rabanne logo. Continue reading →

ADDIDAS AND MARVEL

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Adidas just dropped a new sneaker that’s perfect for fans of Marvel Comics. The German sportswear giant has partnered with Marvel to give its ZX 2K Boost shoe a new look by taking inspiration from the iconic comic book character Iron Man and his fictional company Stark Industries.

The look of the Marvel x Adidas ZX 2K Boost “Stark Industries” is executed with a black-based textile upper that’s paired with white panels at the forefoot and heel counter. Adding to the style is the text “Stark Industries” on the lateral side, an orange heel tab, and a full-length Boost midsole. According to the shoe’s product description, glow-in-the-dark details appear on the upper’s overlays and on the outsole reminiscent of Iron Man’s armored suit while the tongue is designed in the shape of his mask. In addition, the sneaker comes packaged with a special box printed with various Marvel comic book characters.

The Marvel x Adidas ZX 2K Boost “Stark Industries” collab is available now at Adidas.com with sizes ranging from a men’s 5 all the way up to a men’s 12. The shoe comes with a $150 price tag.

THE BEAUTY OF THE DEVIL

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Nike may have settled its lawsuit with MSCHF over the collective’s Lil Nas X “Satan Shoes,” but the controversy leaves lots of questions for both brands looking to be more litigious and for resellers.

After being granted a temporary restraining order on April 2 to halt the sale of 666 pairs of the $1,080 “Satan Shoes,” Nike’s settlement calls for MSCHF to initiate a voluntary buyback of the shoes, which were reimagined Nike Air Max 97s that featured an engraved bronze pentagram; the Bible passage Luke 10:18, which details Satan falling from Heaven, and one drop of blood in the sneaker’s air bubble sole that was provided by MSCHF staffers. Continue reading →