VUITTON BY NC
It is in the brand new Louis Vuitton fondation looking like a large futurist clould ship, designed by the architect Frank Gehry that the fashion designer Nicolas Ghesquière presented his Spring-Summer 2015 collection which is a combination of the 70’s and fiction .
The light of the autumn sun reflected in the large sails of glass and steel that make up the building, located in the Bois de Boulogne in Paris. The eyes have to get used to the darkness that prevails in the room where the stars parade. Faces filmed in close-deliver messages of science fiction.
“The public is asked to sit in a place that does not exist yet, a vessel with a gigantic wooden (…) that serves as an incubator and stimulates creative minds,” set forth the faces . The parade starts with “The Sound of Silence” by Simon and Garfunkel, as of 1966.
The 1970s fashion, often called the “Me Decade”, began with a continuation of the mini skirts, bell-bottoms, and the androgynous hippie look from the late Continue reading
GALLIANO GOES TO ST MARTIN MARGIELA
According to our spie, John Galliano may return to fashion by the end of the year with Maison Martin Margiela. The former creative director of Dior may join the brand owned by Renzo Rosso, the head of Only The Brave (Diesel, Marni, Viktor & Rolf…), in order to design a Haute Couture collection. Discussions are ongoing, while Galliano has already hired five to six people for his atelier.
We have always been a supporter of John Galliano. According to us he is like “The Picture of Dorian Gray”. He expresses the desire to sell his soul, to ensure that the picture, rather than he, will age and fade. The wish is granted, and John pursues a libertine life of varied and amoral experiences; all the while his portrait ages and records every soul-corrupting sin. But over is over, it is like the phoenix bird which is cyclically regenerated or reborn.
In fact the flamboyant style he brought to Dior appears atodds with the somewhat austere designs at Maison Martin Margiela. But as a multifaceted Continue reading
LEONARD 2015
VERONIQUE BRANQUINHO
Dear Sir,
As promised, you will find hereafter the article on Véronique Branquinho. As you refused to invite us for purposes which are none, we are publishing what we sent you.
As key Opinion Leaders, when the times of the collections came, we asked for invitations to the shows. As over the last 5 years we had been receiving the same formated email from “students” having an internship at PR CONSULTING. Besides those emails were full of mistakes. We are really wondering why you are employing qualified people and ask students to do their jobs. Maybe those communication or PR Managers are not paid enough to fulfill their job?
In fact, the sad reality is that you employ “stagiaire2@…” to do the job to avoid recruiting qualified employees and without really briefing them on who to invite to satisfy your clients. What we are sure is that you have enough places for friends and friends of friends … Continue reading
YOHJI YAMASEXY
At 71 years old it seems as if Yohji has just discovered the women body. Till now his colletions were always made of loose clothing. Was it due to his shiness which would disappear with the age?
Anyway, this time the collection is sexy and glamour. We loved this undressed sensuality of silks against skin. The Musée de l’Orangerie was made for an intimate setting in which his women just glided past to the sound of tango.
After the show, Yamamoto said “I challenged what is sexy for me”. It isn’t the first time he’s done so recently, but it is the first where his entire collection revolved around such displays of Continue reading
BALMAIN
GARETH PUGH
MANISH ARORA
He is known for his astute craftsmanship and unique play on colors, such as his trademark palette of PINK and GOLD.
His designs are inspired by Indian heritage but with a contemporary vibe. He has collaborated with eminent brands such as Walt Disney, Swarovski, Swatch, Reebok, Barbie, Monoprix, Nespresso, Nivea, MAC Cosmetics, Pommery, Amrapali amongst others. Manish Arora also holds a Licensing agreement with Inspecs Eyewear UK.
His rich and colorful designs have been worn by bevy of international stars from Rihanna and Lady Gaga to M.I.A and Katy Perry.
As for his final parade, all girls clad in white t-shirt dresses in a range of activewear shapes and materials, simply emblazoned with a colorful motif, a palate cleanser, if you will; these will no doubt be the best lure to draw crowds to his brand new Parisian flagship store.
Manish sells his creations worldwide across prestigious stores such as Galeries Lafayette.
VIONNET PARIS 2015
Vionnet’s Roman Vestale. Vionnet’s 2015 Spring-Summer ready-to-wear collection strangely looks like those virgin roman Vestales protecting the Priest temples. Dressed in white robes as a sign of purity and aesthetics they walk on the runway like warriors.
CHRISTINE PHUNG
Christine Phung fashion shows was an exceptional and magic moments. The Paris Fashion week is a land of imagination. Many will speak of it as legend, as fantasy or even more as mythology. That is perfectly true.
However, her first show is a real and exclusive instant to experience and to share at least once in your life.
And, as you cross the “Bridge of Belief”, you can already imagine yourself lifting out of logic and out of reality, moving beyond time and space and beyond time-space, your imagination crosses Christine imagination land.
Christine Phung materializes a mysterious elegance but above all feminine and modern. It was a nice show and at Canal-Luxe we loved it.
We have noticed the presence of Stephane Warnier representing the newly appointed president Mr Tolenado.
Thank you Josianne for the organisation.
TODAY PARIS FASHION
BARBIE MOSCHINO
FASHION WEEK MILANO
MARCO DE VINCENZO
“Only in Italy could the silken fringes that were once associated with flapper girls in the Twenties seem so sophisticated. Marco de Vincenzo is a master of embellishment – especially for a relatively young designer. The exceptional skills at what he himself calls “controlled complication” brought him to the attention of Fendi, which offers support through its parent group LVMH.
As a designer he also seems intensely Italian in his desire to elaborate clothes in an artistic way, with the silken threads morphing into embroidered flowers. All that in one outfit? This compression is Marco de Vincenzo’s exceptional skill, so that a coat might have squares with woven strips of python and a skirt be interwoven with chiffon.
Each outfit would require a paragraph to describe, yet the clothes seemed so simple. And that is the originality and the strength of the Marco story.” Continue reading
ECCENTRIC GUCCI
Last Wednesday, the Gucci show launched the Milan Fashion Week. The designer Frida Giannini presented an Eccentric Hippy baba cool collection influenced from the 1970’s and really far from what we were due to expect.
Never forgets that quality is not in the fabric but also in the design. The Gucci’s brand ambassador, Charlotte Casiraghi as well as the face of Gucci’s newly launched cosmetics line and Kate Moss sat front row.
There is no question that the 70s roots of this show ran long and deep. But Giannini seemed to really be trying to bring her beloved decade forward. She did this mostly in her chosen proportions, by cropping her bell bottom boyfriend pants, inserting sexy broderie anglaise into her denim day dresses, and deciding to go with above-the-knee cocktail dresses (instead of a more traditional maxi) for her printed bead embellished silk numbers. In this way she was able to give a feather light fashion face-lift to all the hallmark looks that have a good 40 years on them.
MARIOS SCHWAB LONDON 2015
“PERSONALLY, I like the risk of creating something and making it successful… This is what a creator should be challenging himself to create something that people want to observe and learn more about. It’s not just fashion, it’s also an object that they want to invest in and own, have, look at.” – Marios Schwab (Business of Fashion)
In 2005, Marios Schwab launched his label. He rapidly was applauded by both the press and the buyers.
For the Spring/Summer 2015 his collection marked a decade on the schedule. The opening trench coat, actually box jacket with tone-on-tone pencil skirt. The clean cut and sculpted form apparently came from light cast across architectural landscapes, which accounted for the grays, grit and shots of azure sky. Masculine boxy jackets and city cuts were austere, yet the silhouette was softened with fluid and feminine in movement, particularly with the printed silk scarves and asymmetric hems.
Marios Schwab, your collection Spring/Summer 2015 was at risk but overcome the challenge. Congratulations.
CHRISTOPHER KANE LONDON 2015
LONDON FASHION WEEK
THE SPICY VICTORIA BECKHAM
Last week in New York, Victoria Beckam’s Ready-to-Wear collection was one of the most attended and expected as the former “Spice Girls” has made her way since she decided to launch her own brand a few years ago.
This collection was one of her best and revealed a true business women. She has successfully imposed her brand name on the fashion scene and it was announced that her label will soon open doors on its first retail space in London. The Spring/Summer 2014 show was also the debut for Beckham’s signature shoe line.
Regarding the collection, it was a mixe of new ideas and more familiar favorites made for a sold show that should attract more than a few costumers into Beckham’s new store.
Congratulations Mrs Beckham.
VICTORIA BECKHAM LONDON FASHION WEEK.
THE VIRGIN SIBLING
Sibling’s irreverent signature is even made sweeter this Spring/Summer 15 remembering “candy” sweet and bringing joyce on the catwalk. The collection served the 80’s optimism of New York City through the lenses of photographer Amy Arbus.
The spirit of dress and undress, in bed and out-of-bed that resonates deeply in Maripol’s work was keenly felt in the collection. Madge’s legendary “Like A Virgin” wedding dress was heavily referenced in the centre pieces of the collection.
Sibling’s theatrical treatment is unparalleled and, more impressively, the trio — Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCree — achieved high impact purely on the basis of their craftsmanship, proving season after season that resource is better spent on product than ostentatious presentation, especially among emerging brands.
RALPH LAUREN
ZANG TOI
Zang Toi established the, “House of Toi” collection in New York in 1989. Malaysian-born Zang Toi is a graduate of the famed Parsons School of Design. Toi burst onto the scene with vibrant hues and bold designs. Over the years, Toi’s designs have evolved from the bright and decadent of the 1990s to the timeless yet modern lines of the turn of the century. No matter what the trend, Zang Toi creations are chic and glamorous, always highlighting the beauty of the female form. All hand made in New York with the most luxurious materials, all unique, all Zang Toi.
Zang landed in New York City at the age of 20 where he studied at the distinguished Parsons School of Design. In 1990, Zang was awarded the Mouton Cadet Young Designer of the Year which recognizes the top, young, U.S. designer of the year.
Since that time, Zang’s work has been featured in major publications such as Canal-luxe, Vanity Fair, Time, Newsweek, The New York Times, Financial Times, etc. Not only has he dressed Hollywood celebrities such as Sharon Stone, Elizabeth Taylor, Farrah Fawcett, Kristie Alley, Patti LaBelle, Gong Li, Eva Longoria, Fergie (Black Eyed Peas) Continue reading