GOD SAVE BENETTON

Benetton is back. After having revamped its operations, cleaned up & refurbished its stores and refocused on its product offers to redevelop the United Colors of Benetton brand.

“I think it is the right time to start having fun.”  Benetton has called back Oliviero Toscani to launch its new communication campaign that is expected to be launched on December 1st. The The Italian fashion company is thus renewing a collaboration with the photographer that made history in the Eighties and Nineties for its controversial photos and campaigns that shines a light on issues such as the death penalty, AIDS, racism and homosexuality. The old receipes make successful businesses. Continue reading

MORAND GUEST MEMBERS

Two new couture houses, Christophe Josse and Noureddine Amir have been elected as guest members of the official calendar by the membership committee of the famous and worldwide known Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.

The invitation is a much sought-after approval by fashion houses and guarantees the two couturiers a slot on the official catwalk schedule during Paris couture week. The next season will take place over four days from Monday, January 22 to Thursday, January 25, 2018.

Amir is a Moroccan-born designer, noted for making film costumes in the 1990s and known for creating “wearable sculptures”, who received the distinct honor of an exhibition in the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent in March 2016.

For Josse, the annoucement could be seen as a comeback. French-born Josse is an experienced designer, who, after studying art history, joined the house of Torrente, where he eventually became the creative director of its couture collection. Continue reading

DIOR MAKE UP COVENT GARDEN

Dior invites you to step into the captivating world of beauty at the Dior Beauty Boutique in the Market Building. The essential trend destination for beauty lovers. Discover the latest Dior look, direct from the runway; from couture to ready-to-wear with Dior’s very own Covent Garden Boutique colour experts.

The boutique offers a complete makeup collection, exclusive products, bespoke services, exceptional events, and more. Discover Dior’s Backstage Universe and learn the most cutting-edge techniques hot off the runway, with lessons from the Dior Makeup Experts. 15 minutes, complimentary. Walk-ins only and subject to Artist availability. Continue reading

VERY SECRET VICTORIA

The Victoria’s Secret show has been steeped in controversy this year, amid reports that several models have been denied entry to China where the show is taking place, and angry locals protesting the event.

Yet Bella Hadid, Alessandra Ambrosio, Romee Strijd and Candice Swanepoel ensured that all would go well during one of the biggest fashion moments of the year as they lead the host of models taking to the runway for the 22nd annual show which was held at the Mercedes-Benz Arena in Shanghai on Monday.

Flaunting their enviable physiques in skimpy lingerie and of course their famed Angel wings, the stunning supermodels were serenaded down the runway with musical entertainment provided by Harry Styles, Miguel, Jane Zhang and Leslie Odom Jr.

 

FASHION DESIGNER ALAÏA DIED

Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, died in Paris of heart failure last Saturday.

The Tunisian-born designer  gained international fame in the Eighties because of the success of his evening dresses, snug knits and sculpted leathers. He was nicknamed “The King of Cling” because his clothes fit like a second skin.

Alaïa counted among his friends and customers Sozzani, Naomi Campbell, Tina Turner, Madonna, Michelle Obama, Grace Jones, Raquel Welch, Victoria Beckham, Lady Gaga and Miley Cyrus. Continue reading

ALEXANDRE BOULAIS PASSED AWAY

This former student of ESMOD, excellent modelist, has successively been press officer of Thierry Mugler, Communication manager of Paco Rabanne in Spain and then to create a press agency called People’s Revolution.

His desire was to create an agency on a human scale contrary to large press agencies which give an impersonal and preformatted service.

Known by all those who matter in fashion, Alexandre Boulais passed away on 3 November in defeaning silence of the French Fashion Federation. We present our sincere sympathy to his family and his friend Romain.

SCHEINSTEIN BY KARL ?

Karl Lagerfeld Skewers Harvey Weinstein in Cartoon, the sketch is to appear in the monthly supplement of Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung.

In his latest “Karlikature” for the monthly supplement of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung newspaper, Lagerfeld depicts the disgraced Hollywood producer, embroiled in widening accusations of sexual misconduct, in the manner of Babe, Wilbur or Porky.

With his inimitable wit and penchant for word play in multiple languages, the headline in German reads, “Do you know Schweinstein?” schwein being the German word for swine or pig.

“I never liked this man,” Lagerfeld commented. The designer has often contributed caricatures with political themes to the monthly since it launched in February 2013. Continue reading

SIDNEY LEAVES DIOR

Sidney Toledano is leaving Dior and will take over as chairman and ceo of LVMH Fashion Group.. The longtime CEO spent almost 20 years at the helm of the fashion house. He will be replaced by Fendi’s Pietro Beccari.

In a wide-ranging reshuffle, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has appointed Pietro Beccari chief executive officer of Christian Dior Couture.

Toledano will thus replace Pierre-Yves Roussel, who held the title of chairman and ceo of LVMH Fashion Group, and who will remain with the group as a special advisor to LVMH chairman and ceo Bernard Arnault.

The heads of Céline, Givenchy, Kenzo, Loewe, Marc Jacobs, Pucci, Rossi Moda and Nicholas Kirkwood will report to Toledano.  Continue reading

SNEAKER BRANDS FACE OFF THE FUTURE

Wale, whose real name is Olubowale Victor Akintimehin, highlighted what a difference a year makes, and in 2016 Adidas seemed to own the spotlight at the shopping festival. This year, Virgil Abloh’s take on the Air Jordan 1s as part of his The Ten project with Nike won the top spot  last year Kanye West’s Yeezy 350 V2s were a top contender  and out of the 10 sneakers discussed, only one style came from Adidas, which was the Yeezy Boost 700 Wave Runner that’s yet to be released.

Nike dominated the ComplexCon show floor with a sizable booth that commemorated the 35th anniversary of the Air Force 1s. The space featured a center court speaking area, retail store and separate section where attendees could customize Air Force 1s. Other activations included Master Classes from brand partners including Abloh and Errolson Hugh, a surprise performance from Rich the Kid, and a talk between Kobe Bryant and Kendrick Lamar. Continue reading

HERMES OPENS FAKESTORIES IN FRANCE

Hermès International plan to open two new manufacturing sites to its French network by 2020.

The luxury brand will build plants in Bordeaux, in southwestern France, and in Montereau-Fault-Yonne, southeast of Paris, where it has been present since 1996 following the acquisition of the Gordon Choisy tannery. Each site will eventually employ 250 craftspeople specializing in leather goods.

Today the maker of Birkin bags and silk scarves has 15 plants in France, most of which employ between 250 and 300 people. In 2016, Hermès invested 71 million euros in its production facilities and secured its supply chain. Continue reading

COLETTE LAST CHANEL POP-UP

Karl Lagerfeld’s parting gift to Colette, the store that has counted him as its number-one customer for two decades.

Chanel will launch an Adidas Hu NMD shoe specially customized by Pharrell Williams for the house. The music star is featured in the advertising campaign for Chanel’s Gabrielle bag, has walked the runway for the brand and once composed a song for a Lagerfeld-directed Chanel film, but this marks the first time Williams has designed a product for the label.

Other exclusives include limited-edition T-shirts designed by Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel since 1983, and a music compilation by Michel Gaubert, who designs the soundtracks for its runway shows. Continue reading

OCCITANE DECLINES

The French company L’Occitane International reported unaudited first-half sales declined by 0.6% year-over-year, dampened by business in the U.S., U.K. and Japan.  A few decade ago Reinold Geiger, former AMS company, transformed his plastic money and petroleum industry into a supposed natural perfume & cosmetic products from Provence. Lie is not always successfull!

The company, which did not disclose profit figures, said net sales in the six months ended Sept. 30 were 548.2 million euros. Revenues in the U.S. and U.K. declined by 11.1% and 11.4%, respectively. Japan, the group’s largest single market, posted a 4.8% decrease.

Emerging markets China and Brazil made up for some of the weakness, though. L’Occitane in China, its third largest market, saw a 18.2% surge in sales, continuing on from a strong first quarter. Continue reading

VUITTON TEXAS INSTRUMENT

LVMH has just signed a purchase agreement for an approximately 300 acre ranch located in Alvarado, Tex., an outer suburb of Dallas with a population of roughly 4,000.

The purchase price is estimated at 111 acres of land for $832,500 in that region.

The land acquired by Louis Vuitton is set to become the site of its newest leather goods manufacture, the third of its kind in the U.S. The first two are in California.

Bernard Arnault, LVMH’s chairman and chief executive officer, earlier this year said during a meeting with then President-elect Donald Trump that his company was looking to expand its manufacturing presence in the U.S.

While Texas may not be the most obvious choice for a luxury brand so steeped in French culture, Johnson County alone is composed of half a dozen cattle farms, and cattle ranching is one of the state’s biggest industries. Continue reading

CHINESE CURE OF YOUTH AT DIOR’S

Last Wednesday, in Shanghai, in presence of both brand ambassadors, the 29th year old actress Zhao Living and the Chinese model and actress Angelaby, Dior celebrated the reopening of its enlarged and revamped flagship in the major shopping of West Nanjing Road, which feature women’s and men’s collections, as well as fine jewelry and timepieces.

The presence of the young Ambassadors had a very positive impact on the young generation. Sidney Toledano, the CEO stated : We have seen that we are attracting more young people, but we are not a brand for teenagers. We want young people to dream about the brand.”

Far from changing Dior’s strategy in order to bow to the desires of younger consumers, Toledano counters that the brand’s heritage and authenticity that allow it to appeal to consumers of all ages in China and elsewhere. Continue reading

DUMAS OR NOT DUMAS?

Lucia Dumas (nothing to see with Dumas of Hermès) has been named Executive Vice President of Communication and Public Affairs at L’Oréal and will join the group’s executive committee in January.

She is succeeding to Isabel Marey-Semper, who will be leaving the company. Since 2012, Lucia Dumas has served as Vice President of Communication at Essilor. She formerly held the same post in the Rhodia Group during five years, and took part in the implementation of the merger with Solvay, having been in charge of its press relations.

She began her career at Moulinex Group, where she had international and external communications roles, and prior to that graduated from the European Business School in marketing and international strategies. In statement, L’Oréal highlighted Dumas’ diverse expertise and knowledge of industrial sectors where innovation and technology play a key role. Continue reading

MOROCCO AND ST LAURENT

“I am sure that they are watching us from heaven and that they are insanely proud,” said Betty Catroux, at the inauguration of the Yves Saint Laurent museum in Marrakech.

It is in Morocco that he found the range of colors he used: the zelliges, zouacs, djellabas and caftans. The boldness seen in his work is owed to this country in which he drew his forceful harmonies, his audacious combinations, to the fervor of its creativity. He absorbed the culture, transformed and adapted it.

The institution opened to the public on Oct. 19, a little more than a month after the death of Pierre Bergé.

When Yves Saint Laurent first discovered Marrakech in 1966, he was so moved by the city that he immediately decided to buy a house here, and returned regularly. It feels perfectly natural, 50 years later, to build a museum dedicated to his oeuvre, which was so inspired this country. Continue reading

V. CONSTANTIN A NEW DEAL

American consumers might have a weakness for watches that are large and geared to the outdoors, but with the right emphasis, Vacheron Constantin chief executive officer Louis Ferla thinks the dressy, upscale brand can find stronger resonance in the country.

“I think for us, with a bit more focus and explanation, we should be able to properly develop that market,” .The Swiss label, which belongs to Richemont, has just launched three new watch models, the latest additions to a two-decade practice of reissuing historic styles.

From the Twenties, the American 1921 model features a round face set in a cushion shape and was designed at a slightly skewed angle, making it possible to read the time with minimal wrist movement.

Like many players in the industry, Vacheron Constantin faces the challenge of finding the right balance between highlighting the house’s deep history and securing its pertinence in a future with a crowded landscape of offers that include models connected to the Internet. Continue reading