TRUMP TAX A BOOM FOR LVMH

The $1.5 trillion overhaul of the U.S. tax system that President Trump signed into law just before Christmas has put retailers and fashion brands into an unfamiliar situation with some extra cash coming and incentives to put it to work.

The experts agree that legislating a much-lower corporate tax rate, falling to 21 percent from about 35 percent, will give the corporate world of fashion a significant boost and might well help workers, too. The biggest beneficiaries will be U.S.-domiciled corporations that derive a majority of profits in the U.S.

Among the biggest gainers will be the department store operators such as Nordstrom Inc., Kohl’s Corp. and Macy’s Inc., which derive essentially all their profits from the U.S. It has been estimated that the tax overhaul would boost Nordstrom’s earnings per share 25.5 percent for 2018, while Kohl’s may gain 22 percent and Macy’s take would increase by 21 percent. Continue reading

LI EDELKOORT REPLACES COLETTE?

Having first opened a private art salon in Paris more than three decades ago, Trend Union Founder, Li Edelkoort, will soon take her career full circle by unveiling a public design gallery in her company’s headquarters.

Set to open its doors Jan. 18 at 30 Boulevard Saint-Jacques, the space will showcase design and arts and crafts. To that end, a Heartwear pop-up shop will be among the planned events.

With the assistance of department stores and magazines, Heartwear develops high-level goods with broader distribution. The nonprofit’s aim is to create a lasting connection with a collective or region. Khadi cotton from India and indigo-colored textiles from Benin are two of the projects that have been executed. To try to help the specific regions become self sustainable, profits are reinvested in those where the artists are based. Continue reading

MIREN ARZALLUZ

Congratulation to the Spanish Director Miren Arzalluz who has just been appointed at the head of Palais Gelliera.

She has a dozen years of experience in fashion conservation to the position, including eight years at the helm of the Cristobal Balenciaga Foundation. She has a fashion history degree from the Courtauld Institute of Art in London and worked on a number of fashion exhibits over the years, including “Fashion Mix.”

The Mayor of Paris, Anne Hidalgo, whose the french Parisian calls “Notre Drame de Paris” is delighted to welcome a compatriote. We wish her good luck and hope she will be the new “luz” light of the museum. Continue reading

THE KORS OF MY ENNEMY

After years of intermittent protests against Michael Kors, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals said the company is going fur-free. Kors chief executive officer John Idol confirmed that the brand would indeed be going fur-free by December 2018, noting the decision “marks a new chapter as our company continues to evolve its use of innovative materials.”

Kors has produced a small collection dedicated to fur for several years, but chief creative officer Michael Kors echoed Idol’s sentiment, adding: “We now have the ability to create a luxe aesthetic using nonanimal fur.”

With the advances in faux fur and the introduction of other innovative materials, it’s becoming clear that there is simply no reason to continue using a product that causes so much pain and suffering.

Michael Kors is the second major designer to reveal a fur-free policy in recent months, following in the footsteps of Gucci, which unveiled its plans in October. The decision marked a significant change by Gucci and its creative director Alessandro Michele. The decision aligned the Italian brand with the practices of its Kering stablemate Stella McCartney, who has long eschewed the use of fur and leather. Continue reading

ALAIA GRAVE IN LONDON

From May 10th to October 7th an exhibition planned by Alaia himself will be presented by the Design Museum as Azzedine Alaia. The exhibition will explore his passion and energy for fashion as he himself intended it to be seen showcasing more than 60 pieces personally selected by the iconic designer.

Azzedine Alaia was recognised throughout his life as a master couturier who expressed the timeless beauty of the female form in the most refined degree of haute couture.

Alaia was born to a farming family in Tunisia in 1940 and studied sculpture at the fine arts school in Tunis before working at a modest neighbourhood dressmaker’s shop. He rose to fame in the 1980s, refusing to march to the beat of international fashion weeks and instead releasing his collections, like Franck Sorbier in his own time, with scant concern for publicity. Continue reading

FERRAGAMO WAREHOUSE

Salvatore Ferragamo has inaugurated a new advanced artisanal laboratory inside his Osmannoro plant.

The 12,916-square-foot space, which is dedicated to the development and realization of men’s and women’s leather good samples, will enable the company to further expand its leather accessories offering through the combination of a traditional artisanal approach and the use of innovative machineries and techniques. The new laboratory has been realized with eco-friendly materials and was designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes.

“In keeping with the brand’s philosophy, focused on the development of artisanal products celebrating Made in Italy craftsmanship, the new leather goods laboratory will enable our artisans to grow their passion and skills with an approach based on innovation and research, always in the respect of tradition,” said Salvatore Ferragamo chief executive officer Eraldo Poletto. Continue reading

SCHEDULE PARIS MEN’S WEEK

Tough the dates and times have not yet be confirmed, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode on Monday released the list of the official runway schedule for Paris Men’s Fashion Week from January 17th to 21th.

The maverick fashion label as well as France’s Niuku, Germany Gmbh and Britain’s Dunhill London plan to stage at the next show for the fall 2018 season on Jan. 19 in the French capital.

New highlights on the official presentation lineup, meanwhile, include Myar, the solo project of Andrea Rosso, son of entrepreneur Renzo Rosso and the creative director of Diesel licenses, as well as cult Japanese label Takahiromiyashita the Soloist, which earlier in the month will stage a runway show back-to-back with Undercover as fellow guest designers of Pitti Uomo, marking its first show outside of Japan. Continue reading

DONATELLA LONDON BIO BOUTIQUE

The new store, located on Sloane Street, is taking a sustainable approach to design. After paying tribute to Gianni Versace’s legacy with a high-energy spring 2018 show in September, Donatella Versace has kept the celebratory spirit alive and brought it to London.

On Monday night, she accepted the Fashion Icon prize at the Fashion Awards here and the following day she marked the opening of the new Versace boutique on Sloane Street.The store is located a few yards away from the previous one, and Versace made the move in order to secure a bigger space.

“London means a lot to me, all the young, creative talent is here who I try to work a lot with,” said Versace at the boutique’s opening party, where she was joined by one of those young talents, Christopher Kane, who used to design the Versus line. Other guests included models Natasha Poly and Irina Shayk. “I wanted a bigger space, and I’m particularly proud of this store because of the sustainability approach we are taking.” Continue reading

NOBUYOSHI ARAKI X SAINT LAURENT

Saint Laurent will reveal 16 unique pieces at Colette, which are part of a special art and photography project by world renowned Japanese artist Nobuyoshi Araki.

The artist captured Anja Rubik, integrating photography and painting techniques, exclusively for Saint Laurent and Anthony Vaccarello. The series, titled “Saint Laurent Shiki-in” (lust for color), merge elements of the world of Saint Laurent with the traditional themes of Araki’s work, a key figure in the modern world culture.

All of the pieces can be pre-ordered at Colette through the Taka Ishii Gallery and will then be sent from Tokyo along with Araki’s label signature and certificate of authenticity. Continue reading

GUCCI TAX INVESTIGATION

On Saturday, Reuters released a report saying that  Gucci is under investigation for tax evasion. Italy’s Guardia di Finanza, the national police force specializing in financial crimes late this week visited the fashion house’s offices in Milan and Florence for fiscal checks.

Mentioning an anonymous senior source with direct knowledge on the matter, Reuters reported checks started because Milan prosecutors suspected Gucci may have paid taxes on profits generated by sales in Italy in another country with a more favorable tax structure.

Reached for comment, Gucci released a statement saying the company is providing its full cooperation to the respective authorities and is confident about the transparency of its operations. Continue reading

21 LOGO GUCCI FOREVER

Forever 21 isn’t giving up an effort to cancel Gucci’s trademarks for its classic, two-tone stripe design detail, and it’s using the designs of numerous other brands to support its case.

More than 40 brands and retailers across a range of price points, including Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s and from Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga to Tory Burch, J. Crew and Urban Outfitters, were cited in Forever 21’s updated complaint against Gucci, arguing several trademarks covering the house’s blue and red as well as green and red stripe designs should be canceled.

“All of the Gucci registrations feature three parallel stripes colored blue-red-blue or green-red-green,” Forever 21 pointed out in a new complaint filed last week. “Many clothing and accessory items adorned with decorative stripes colored blue-red-blue or green-red-green are sold by countless third parties. Continue reading

ARTEMISSION DARE VALLI

Giambattista Valli is launching an activewear capsule collection and gearing up for a retail push, marking the first steps of his label’s planned expansion under its new partnership with the billionaire Pinault family.

Following the end of his decade-long partnership with Italian luxury outerwear firm Moncler as creative director of its Gamme Rouge line, he will unveil his namesake activewear collection of 50 to 60 pieces to buyers in January.

With core prices ranging from 1,100 euros to 2,500 euros, the line will be delivered in June 2018 in tandem with pre-fall. Identified by a color-coded label, it will be sold in Giambattista Valli boutiques and select specialty stores.

“It’s a capsule collection where we will express a more functional side of the brand, while remaining faithful to the atmosphere of contemporary chic that is part of its DNA,” Continue reading

GOD SAVE BENETTON

Benetton is back. After having revamped its operations, cleaned up & refurbished its stores and refocused on its product offers to redevelop the United Colors of Benetton brand.

“I think it is the right time to start having fun.”  Benetton has called back Oliviero Toscani to launch its new communication campaign that is expected to be launched on December 1st. The The Italian fashion company is thus renewing a collaboration with the photographer that made history in the Eighties and Nineties for its controversial photos and campaigns that shines a light on issues such as the death penalty, AIDS, racism and homosexuality. The old receipes make successful businesses. Continue reading

MORAND GUEST MEMBERS

Two new couture houses, Christophe Josse and Noureddine Amir have been elected as guest members of the official calendar by the membership committee of the famous and worldwide known Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.

The invitation is a much sought-after approval by fashion houses and guarantees the two couturiers a slot on the official catwalk schedule during Paris couture week. The next season will take place over four days from Monday, January 22 to Thursday, January 25, 2018.

Amir is a Moroccan-born designer, noted for making film costumes in the 1990s and known for creating “wearable sculptures”, who received the distinct honor of an exhibition in the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent in March 2016.

For Josse, the annoucement could be seen as a comeback. French-born Josse is an experienced designer, who, after studying art history, joined the house of Torrente, where he eventually became the creative director of its couture collection. Continue reading

DIOR MAKE UP COVENT GARDEN

Dior invites you to step into the captivating world of beauty at the Dior Beauty Boutique in the Market Building. The essential trend destination for beauty lovers. Discover the latest Dior look, direct from the runway; from couture to ready-to-wear with Dior’s very own Covent Garden Boutique colour experts.

The boutique offers a complete makeup collection, exclusive products, bespoke services, exceptional events, and more. Discover Dior’s Backstage Universe and learn the most cutting-edge techniques hot off the runway, with lessons from the Dior Makeup Experts. 15 minutes, complimentary. Walk-ins only and subject to Artist availability. Continue reading

VERY SECRET VICTORIA

The Victoria’s Secret show has been steeped in controversy this year, amid reports that several models have been denied entry to China where the show is taking place, and angry locals protesting the event.

Yet Bella Hadid, Alessandra Ambrosio, Romee Strijd and Candice Swanepoel ensured that all would go well during one of the biggest fashion moments of the year as they lead the host of models taking to the runway for the 22nd annual show which was held at the Mercedes-Benz Arena in Shanghai on Monday.

Flaunting their enviable physiques in skimpy lingerie and of course their famed Angel wings, the stunning supermodels were serenaded down the runway with musical entertainment provided by Harry Styles, Miguel, Jane Zhang and Leslie Odom Jr.

 

FASHION DESIGNER ALAÏA DIED

Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, died in Paris of heart failure last Saturday.

The Tunisian-born designer  gained international fame in the Eighties because of the success of his evening dresses, snug knits and sculpted leathers. He was nicknamed “The King of Cling” because his clothes fit like a second skin.

Alaïa counted among his friends and customers Sozzani, Naomi Campbell, Tina Turner, Madonna, Michelle Obama, Grace Jones, Raquel Welch, Victoria Beckham, Lady Gaga and Miley Cyrus. Continue reading

ALEXANDRE BOULAIS PASSED AWAY

This former student of ESMOD, excellent modelist, has successively been press officer of Thierry Mugler, Communication manager of Paco Rabanne in Spain and then to create a press agency called People’s Revolution.

His desire was to create an agency on a human scale contrary to large press agencies which give an impersonal and preformatted service.

Known by all those who matter in fashion, Alexandre Boulais passed away on 3 November in defeaning silence of the French Fashion Federation. We present our sincere sympathy to his family and his friend Romain.

SCHEINSTEIN BY KARL ?

Karl Lagerfeld Skewers Harvey Weinstein in Cartoon, the sketch is to appear in the monthly supplement of Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung.

In his latest “Karlikature” for the monthly supplement of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung newspaper, Lagerfeld depicts the disgraced Hollywood producer, embroiled in widening accusations of sexual misconduct, in the manner of Babe, Wilbur or Porky.

With his inimitable wit and penchant for word play in multiple languages, the headline in German reads, “Do you know Schweinstein?” schwein being the German word for swine or pig.

“I never liked this man,” Lagerfeld commented. The designer has often contributed caricatures with political themes to the monthly since it launched in February 2013. Continue reading

SIDNEY LEAVES DIOR

Sidney Toledano is leaving Dior and will take over as chairman and ceo of LVMH Fashion Group.. The longtime CEO spent almost 20 years at the helm of the fashion house. He will be replaced by Fendi’s Pietro Beccari.

In a wide-ranging reshuffle, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has appointed Pietro Beccari chief executive officer of Christian Dior Couture.

Toledano will thus replace Pierre-Yves Roussel, who held the title of chairman and ceo of LVMH Fashion Group, and who will remain with the group as a special advisor to LVMH chairman and ceo Bernard Arnault.

The heads of Céline, Givenchy, Kenzo, Loewe, Marc Jacobs, Pucci, Rossi Moda and Nicholas Kirkwood will report to Toledano.  Continue reading

SNEAKER BRANDS FACE OFF THE FUTURE

Wale, whose real name is Olubowale Victor Akintimehin, highlighted what a difference a year makes, and in 2016 Adidas seemed to own the spotlight at the shopping festival. This year, Virgil Abloh’s take on the Air Jordan 1s as part of his The Ten project with Nike won the top spot  last year Kanye West’s Yeezy 350 V2s were a top contender  and out of the 10 sneakers discussed, only one style came from Adidas, which was the Yeezy Boost 700 Wave Runner that’s yet to be released.

Nike dominated the ComplexCon show floor with a sizable booth that commemorated the 35th anniversary of the Air Force 1s. The space featured a center court speaking area, retail store and separate section where attendees could customize Air Force 1s. Other activations included Master Classes from brand partners including Abloh and Errolson Hugh, a surprise performance from Rich the Kid, and a talk between Kobe Bryant and Kendrick Lamar. Continue reading