Category Archives: BREAKING MODE
MOSCHINO MENSWEAR 2019 ROME
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN LONDON 2019
Christopher Raeburn’s is celebrating his 10 years in business in which many of his contemporaries have fallen by the wayside. In large part, that’s doubtlessly due to the bracing reality of the clothes he creates: functional, intelligible, simple, desirable. But his philosophy – to make fashion in a responsible, open, and transparent way has gone from being a fringe concern to becoming a core part of the industry’s conversations with itself, and with a wider world. His anniversary show was dedicated to Raeburn’s greatest hits utility-focused outerwear, no-nonsence knits, streamlined joggers.
But there was a new, heightened transparency during the show quite literally, in the case of clear nylon puffer jackets, filled with multicoloured fabric offcuts, in taped-seam outerwear and cashmere sweaters patchworked with recycled knits.There might have been other, more visually futuristic collections on show yesterday, but Raeburn was perhaps offering the most Continue reading
GOLDEN HORRIBLE RED CARPET
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY LONDON 2019
NEW FAUX FUR COATS
Last year, an unprecedented number of fashion maisons – Gucci, Givenchy, and Michael Kors among them – decided to stop producing fur coats. With a brand new year ahead, now is the chance to pick up a new faux fur, Continue reading
DIOR’S WINDOW AT HARRODS
Dior celebrates the festive season where magical window scenarios, lighting and paper creations come together elegantly with a nod to their destination through iconic landscape representations such as the London Eye for Dior’s windows at Harrods.
There were two places I wanted to go during childhood visits to London: Hamley’s toy shop and Harrods, where the Brompton road windows seemed to expand into infinity and which still ignite in me a kind of happy retail hysteria. I wasn’t disappointed, then, last week when I happened upon these cracking displays by fashion house Dior.
It’s all part of “Dior at Harrods,” a spring salad of British retail ingenuity topped with French dressing that will keep until April 14. Continue reading
MOZAMBIQUE FASHION WEEK
MARINE DEVOS AND BIJORHCA
The Reed Expositions group entrusted Marine Devos with the management of Bijorhca Paris, the Jewelry trade show.
Marine Devos, who began her career 17 years ago in the tradeshows circuit, will officially succeed Aude Leperre on December 9, 2018. She will work under the direction of Jean-François Quentin, newly appointed Director of the Hospitality, Catering, Franchising, Jewelry and Technology. Continue reading
RICHEMONT JOINS ALIBABA’S
Compagnie Financière Richemont has become the latest international corporation to join Alibaba’s Anti-Counterfeiting Alliance, which aims to protect intellectual property rights on the e-commerce giant’s platforms.
Alibaba said this week that Richemont is now among 115 members from 16 countries and regions that are part of the AACA. Richemont said it would share its technology, expertise and other information to support the Alliance’s efforts.
Richemont has long been an anti-counterfeit crusader, with a robust in-house legal team that has gone after watch and jewelry counterfeiters and the sales platforms that sell their goods.
Richemont, New Balance, General Motors and McDonald’s, are the latest global brands to join the AACA, according to Alibaba. The alliance’s membership has more than tripled from the original 30 founding brands at its launch in 2017. Continue reading
KARL SKIES IN COURCHEVEL
Chanel has opened the door of the prestigious ski resort of Courchevel in the French Alps.
Far from Hamburg, the Kaiser promotes the boutique the most chic of south of France. Courchevel is similar to St Tropez. Let’s hope that Karl will not lose Choupette in the snow !
Between now and the end of April 2019, skiers will have the opportunity to shop for the brand’s famous handbags 255 and outfits, when they are not busy on the slopes or gorging in the village’s restaurants. 1600-square-foot space will also have a wide range of accessories, shoes, watches, and jewelry. Continue reading
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SCHEDULE
The next New York Fashion Week will see a dual-gender Tom Ford show bridge the official men’s and women’s calendars.
The Council of Fashion Designers of America released a preliminary schedule Tuesday night that includes Ford at 8:00 p.m. on Wednesday, Feb. 6, the last of the three-day men’s-specific schedule. His show will be co-ed, however. Continue reading
MY NAME IS BOND STREET
Cartier is stepping into its retail future, as it reopens the doors to its revamped London flagship on New Bond Street.
The boutique which is the result of an ambitious nine-month renovation project and even more years of planning offers an elegant and luxurious space that resembles a home and an exhibition space, as much as it does a shop floor.
"If you compare the historical boutique with the one we are opening, the base might be the same, but one has nothing to do with the other," said Laurent Feniou, Cartier’s U.K. managing director, during an interview. He added that the company has moved its London offices from Bond Street to Regent Street as part of the revamp process in order to dedicate the whole building to retail and reimagine what its London flagship can look like.
In line with Cartier’s overall ethos of marrying tradition and modernity, the new space emphasizes some of the listed building’s original features, including wooden panels and a grand wooden staircase that was previously hidden away. Continue reading
ORIBE CANALES DIES AT 62
Oribe Canales, a celebrity hairstylist who rose to fame before launching his eponymous line of styling products, has died, a company spokeswoman confirmed. He was 62.
Canales was known as one of the industry’s great hairdressers. He worked with celebrities including Jennifer Lopez and models including Naomi Campbell. He was a mainstay at fashion week, where he designed runway-ready locks for big names like Chanel, before going on to launch his product line.
Mally Roncal, the makeup artist behind Mally Beauty, wrote: “There are no words to express what you mean to me, all you did for me and the time we spent together.
The group Canal-Luxe expresses his sincere condoleances to your family.
A TRAIN NAMED DESIRE
LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said on Friday it had agreed to buy luxury travel operator Belmond Ltd., owner of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express train and hotels including the Copacabana Palace in Rio de Janeiro, for $2.6 billion, significantly widening its footprint in the hospitality sector.
Established over 40 years ago with the acquisition of Hotel Cipriani in Venice, Belmond operates in 24 countries with a portfolio of 46 luxury hotel, restaurant, train and river cruise properties. It posted revenues of $572 million and adjusted EBITDA of $140 million in the 12 months ended Sept. 30.
“Belmond delivers unique experiences to discerning travelers and owns a number of exceptional assets in the most desirable destinations,” said Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH. Continue reading
CIVIDINI PRE FALL 2019
CHAUMET AND JOSEPHINE
Joséphine arrived in Paris in 1779 from her native Martinique, soon to steal the heart of Napoleon Bonaparte, before being crowned empress of France. A woman of style and passion, Joséphine infused Parisian society with a sense of originality and audacity, which find fresh expression in the city today.
joséphine’s chateau, Malmaison, was where she indulged her passion for flowers and plants, becoming widely respected among the botanists of her day. Her love of nature helped spread the 19th-century fashion for gardens and greenhouses like the Bagatelle rose garden, the Auteuil Greenhouses and the Jardin des Plantes. Today, this lush, exuberant spirit lives on in Paris’s elegant rooftop and vertical gardens, while Malmaison welcomes thousands of visitors every year. Joséphine’s jeweler, Chaumet, celebrates this love of flowers in its Jardins collection. Continue reading
ROUSSEL QUITS LVMH
Longtime LVMH executive Pierre-Yves Roussel is to become chief executive officer at Tory Burch. Roussel left his role as chairman and ceo of LVMH Fashion Group earlier this year, and was initially said to remain with the group as a special adviser to LVMH chairman and ceo Bernard Arnault. Roussel has been linked romantically to Burch for years. They announced their engagement in 2016 and were finally married only weeks ago at Burch’s Antigua
As head of LVMH Fashion Group, Roussel oversaw the fashion houses Celine, Givenchy, Kenzo, Loewe, Marc Jacobs, Pucci, Rossi Moda and Nicholas Kirkwood. He is probably best known for recruiting Phoebe Philo for Celine, Jonathan Anderson for Loewe and retailers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon of Opening Ceremony for Kenzo. Roussel’s start date at Burch could not immediately be learned.”
WELCOME TO CANNABIS COUNTY
A burgeoning new retail industry is poised to quickly scale in Canada, where the government legalized marijuana marijuana on Oct. 17. While the Canadian Parliament in 2017 passed the bill legalizing the sale of cannabis, much of the regulation, including retail sales, has been left to the provinces.
Stores have begun to pop up in Alberta and Saskatchewan, two of the first provinces to legalize brick-and-mortar cannabis rentals.
Inner Spirit Holdings’ Spiritleaf lifestyle stores, upscale-looking units with weathered wood fixtures and seating areas for sampling, have opened locations in Brooks, St. Albert and Lethbrid Continue reading
KERING CLEANS THE PLANETE
Fashion is the second most polluting industry in the world after oil and gas, and more than 90 percent of the potential to improve its sustainability lies within the supply chain much of that within China. That formed the basis for Kering to launch a sustainability award.
The prize is a partnership with Silicon Valley accelerator Plug and Play, and replicates its European Kering Sustainable Innovation Award in this part of the world a fashion manufacturing capital and a growing consumer force in the luxury goods market.
The award will target and celebrate Chinese start-ups who are engaged in the fields of alternative raw materials, green supply chain, retail and use, and circular economy, with a top prize of 100,000 euros. The winner and two runners-up will be able to meet with Kering’s network of investors for mentorship, funding opportunities, as well as trips to Europe and the U.S. to meet with industry leaders. Continue reading
IS PARIS BURNING ?
Warnings and plans for store closures swept the capital; the government plans to deploy 8,000 troops and armored vehicles in the city
Tensions ran high in Paris saterday as the French capital braced for further mayhem from anti-government demonstrations over the weekend, with luxury groups Kering and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton joining department stores in protectively shutting all of their stores on Saturday, while authorities warned people steer clear of parts of the city.
A section of the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré will be entirely sealed off for the fourth weekend in a row to protect the Élysée presidential palace.
The lockdown comes at a time when the holiday shopping season is normally entering full swing; instead the city is gripped by the possibility of more violence, with the government pledging to employ 8,000 troops and a dozen armored vehicles in Paris, and 89,000 security forces around the country. Continue reading
BURBERRY MOSS WESTWOOD
The old bird Vivienne Westwood and Burberry have lifted the veil on their collaboration, with the release of their joint campaign that’s filled with an array of new and old faces dressed in head-to-toe vintage Burberry check.
The idea for the limited-edition collaboration, Riccardo Tisci’s first, was to take a unisex approach and create a “union of punk and tradition” by reinventing some of Westwood’s most famous pieces from berets, to lace-up platform shoes and kilts using a vintage variation of the Burberry check.
Kate Moss poses in a check shirt and matching high-waisted pants; Sistren, a group that creates podcasts about the stories of queer black women, are in mini kilts, knee-high socks and bucket bags all re-created in Burberry check, while musician Leonard Emmanuel wears an oversize T-shirt with the slogan “Cool Earth has a plan to save the rainforest.” Continue reading
PHARAOH PHARRELL WILLIAMS
This is not Elizabeth Taylor, anyway,” Karl Lagerfeld declared. Encamped in a suite at the Mercer Hotel which the Chanel entourage took over in full in preparation for the house’s Métiers d’Art show on Tuesday night Lagerfeld quickly dispelled any preconception of a luxe cheese fest of overdone makeup and tricked-out headdresses inspired by La Liz’s (albeit delightful) turn as Cleopatra.
There’s a timelessness to it, he said of the allure of ancient Egyptian imagery, noting that the idea for the collection crystallized before the location was secured. “I always was interested in the old Egypt, from 3,000 years before Jesus Christ. And then I said it would be great to show it in the Met, but I never thought it was possible
But then, if “impossible” exists within the world of Chanel, we’ve yet to see it. Here, the house booked the Met for the show (which necessitated closing public access to the Temple of Dendur for many days prior) and a nearby expanse of Central Park for the party.
Julianne Moore, Margot Robbie, Penélope Cruz, Lily-Rose Depp and Sofia Coppola. One celebrity wasn’t seated: Pharrell Williams walked the show, a vision all in gold, long sweater atop leather pants. Continue reading
EXCLUSIVE HOTEL BOUCHERON
Boucheron is set to open its newly restored Place Vendôme flagship Wednesday.
With its sweeping views of the famed Paris square and its spiraling column, the mansion, which covers nearly 20,000 square feet of space, now has a winter garden and an intimate perch to observe it from in addition to a succession of distinct, refurbished salons. Moving past the traditional realm of a high-end boutique, the upper floors house the label’s design studio and workshops, as well as an entire floor that can serve as an apartment to host its most elite clients overnight stays included.
For the Boucheron project, which coincided with the house’s 160th anniversary this year, the building’s historical stature took precedence, recounted Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, chief executive officer of the jeweler.
Least complicated, by Poulit-Duquesne’s account, was defining the mission of the Kering-owned jeweler with François-Henri Pinault, chairman and ceo of the luxury group. Continue reading