TIFFANY AND COLOR

Tiffany & Co’s new pop-up in Paris is hard to resist describing as a jewel box. With its circular rooms laid out like a couple of engagement rings or a drop earring, the boutique at 34 Avenue Montaigne serves as a mini museum and calling card for the American firm’s fine and high jewelry, as only gold and diamond baubles are available here.

Saturday marked the opening of the 650-square-foot space for a one-year residency. It used to be occupied by Dior Joaillerie, which moved into the Dior megastore across the street earlier this year.

Visitors wander through the archives, which are displayed under glass pyramids or in cases embedded in the walls and which display digital images and historical information. Upon viewing the jewelry set the eye is drawn to the densely stacked pearls, an unsigned design from Tiffany and Co. cofounder Charles Lewis Tiffany’s and JB Young’s heyday when they were selling fancy goods on Broadway in New York City as well as the elaborate gold charm depicting the Arc de Triomphe. Continue reading

CAVALLI 2023 RESORT

Since his appointment as creative consultant two years ago, Fausto Puglisi has been proving that the animal-printed universe of Roberto Cavalli suits.

Not only did the Sicilian designer help to rev up the label and put it back in the spotlight, with celebrities from Megan Thee Stallion to Dua Lipa but he seems to have cracked the code of making its strong identity and signature seductive aesthetics relevant for today

COCO FASHION MANIFESTO

Following the storming success of the “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams” exhibition, Chanel will do a exhibition for September 2023.

“Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto” will be the first U.K. exhibition dedicated to the work of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. It will look to chart the evolution of Chanel’s designs from the opening of her first millinery boutique in Paris in 1910, to the show of her final collection in 1971. 180 looks seen together for the first time, the exhibition will explore the designer’s democratic, offbeat approach to fashion, which paved the way for a new way of dressing.

Key pieces on display will include outfits created for British model Anne Gunning (later Lady Nutting) and Hollywood actresses Lauren Bacall and Marlene Dietrich.

Through eight themed sections, the exhibition will explore Chanel’s innovative approach to fabric, silhouette and construction and will examine how she drafted a new framework for fashion in the 20th century. Continue reading

CHANEL NO MORE RUSSIA

The retailer grew by double digits in the first five months of the year as strong sales in other parts of the world compensated for the closure of stores in Russia and China.

Chanel earns less than 1.5 percent of its revenue from Russia. There are 31 percent Chanel employees still under lockdown in mainland China. Five of its 16 boutiques there have closed, and 35 fragrance and beauty stores, roughly equivalent to a third of its network, have also been shuttered.

We’ve maintained our momentum despite the headwinds and uncertainties we face. Chanel outperformed competitors such as Kering, which reported an organic sales increase of 13 percent compared to 2019. Profitability at Chanel, which is privately owned and run by the Wertheimer family, improved significantly. A margin of 34.9 percent was logged, up from 20.3 percent in 2020.

Chanel announced in March that it was increasing the price of its four core handbag styles and spring rtw collection in multiple regions. Since the start of the Coronavirus pandemic, Chanel has raised its prices six times, including an adjustment last November.

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BALENCIAGA THE COINS OF FETISHISM

The show invitation was a wad of fake $100 bills (sadly fake, but amazingly realistic). Money is America’s obsession, for better or worse.  This vision of perverted power dressing, which had models in full latex suits, was rooted in fetishism.

In a world filled with stock symbols, their ponytails, braids, and thick eyelashes poked out of slits as they walked around Wall Street’s money pit.

For the last two years, we have been sitting at home trying to come up with digital things.  Fashion is a reflection of our terrifying world, and if it triggers fear or terror, it is the fault of the human being. Strip away the drama, and what becomes clear is that Balenciaga is becoming a true powerhouse among the fashion designers.

There was a fabulous 1980s-nostalgic double-breasted black blazer in a triangle silhouette over a skirt; a black-and-white polka dot pleated silk plisse dress with padded shoulders and flared sleeves, or a long, lean camel coat.

The outerwear was uniformly strong, from oversize, drape-y trenches to collarless robe coats and beautiful wrap coats to be a a package, well almost. Finally the only star here was Adidas.

DIOR LORD OF DOGTOWN

Thursday night, here is the diction of a remarkable fashion of Dior, Kim and the other. The house had closed two L.A. avenues, even adding its own letters “ERL Dior” to the historic “Venice” on the neighborhood sign. A collection presented on an ocean blue runway with two waves with foam crest, as elements of decor, symbolizing the new wave that is currently tearing fashion and its slow mutation, the dark luminosity for one and the soft clarity for the other.
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LUXURY IS THE FUTURE FOR BURBERRY

Burberry as reporte record revenue and higher-than-expected profits in fiscal 2021-22 despite the lockdowns in China, war in Ukraine and rocketing inflation in the U.K., its home market.

Although Burberry’s new chief executive officer Jonathan Akeroyd didn’t reveal much about his strategy, it’s clear the future will be about gaining traction in the luxury market, focusing on the full-price business and wooing younger customers with fresh ideas and further strides in the environmental and social space.

It was the first time in two years that the company staged a live presentation at its London headquarters, and Akeroyd and Brown were in a bullish mood, optimistic about the future and the prospect that China will rebound mightily once local lockdowns lift.

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PATRIK FRISK FRISKED NEW JOB

After the close of the stock market, the Baltimore-based sports brand announced Frisk will leave the position on June 1. He has been CEO and president for just over two years.

While an internal and external search for a permanent CEO is underway, Frisk will be replaced on an interim basis by Colin Browne, chief operating officer. Brown joined the company as president of global sourcing in 2016 and was elevated to his current role in February 2020. Previously, he served as vice president and managing director for VF Corp. and worked for Li & Fung as well as Pentland Brands plc.

Sweden-born Frisk, who had held executive roles at The North Face, Timberland and Vans in addition to his experience at Aldo Group, instituted a $200 million, five-year turnaround plan with the aim of returning Under Armor to its original purpose as a sports brand. Continue reading

GUCCI THE LEGEND OF MACBETH

It was a stunning show staged by Alessandro Michele and his team Monday night, with old maps of constellations and shooting stars lighting up the 13th-century Castel del Monte in Italy. There were cascades of sequins embroidered on a few medieval gowns and on cool baggy denim jeans as the moon shone over the Apulian castle perched on a hill.

The hot Maneskin band attending the show and performing at the after-party might appreciate his all-leather trenchcoat and thigh-high boots, and the sequined tailored pantsuit could appeal to Elle Fanning or Dakota Johnson who were also at the event.

Gucci a brand that reported 2021 sales of 9.73 billion euros and while he realizes fashion reflects life and Gucci speaks to a global customer. Although the harlequin motif was a bit of a stretch, the medieval references ran from the multicolor graphic patterns to the collars with Elizabethan necklines.

A blue velvet embroidered gown was a stunner, but there were also prim ladylike suits and coats with mock-fur details. He also played up optical black and white patterns in body hugging dresses. But Michele’s Gucci woman is no wallflower and there were a few nude looks and flimsy chiffon minidresses.

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JACQUEMUS FEEL NIKE

On Monday, Simon Porte Jacquemus teased his upcoming collaboration with Nike on Instagram after hanging out with his pal Dua Lipa over the weekend.

A world where outdoor pursuits and court sports converge in a new, integrated aesthetic was imagined by Porte Jacquemus for this collaboration, which spans apparel and footwear as well as “a variety of iconic Nike designs.”

The items will drop on his brand’s e-commerce on June 28 and will be rolled out globally across Nike’s retail network throughout the summer. The Nike x Jacquemus collection is described as “comfortable anywhere and anytime.”

Jacquemus has just opened his eyes on the real world. Time after time he goes back to the real life, between the machines to deliver products and the store with no products inside, he realizes now that women do sports, it is true that on women he does not really know.

VUITTON CALIFORNIFASHION

When the Louis Vuitton resort collection was ready for its debut on Thursday at the Salk Institute of Biological Studies plaza overlooking the Pacific Ocean in La Jolla, California, all eyes turned skyward to watch a flock of seagulls chase camera drones hovering over the runway. Nature does put on a good show!

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SANTA MARIA CROSS THE ATLANTIC OCEAN

The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella will introduce its first eau de parfum, dubbed “L’Iris,” eight centuries after it was founded. The brand will launch the new fragrance on May 25 in Europe, South Korea, and the United States, and it will be the first in a new collection of eau de parfums to be developed by the brand.

Santa Maria Novella already offers skin care, soaps, pomades, colognes, candles, ambient fragrances, and liqueurs in its signature, old-school packaging, which explains its popularity.

To commemorate their roots, the company chose the iris for their inaugural eau de parfum, as it is the emblem of Florence and the symbol of purity, in addition to being one of the premium ingredients used in fragrance creation.

The floral fragrance adds iris to its drydown, along with musk and gray amber, along with neroli and Sichuan pepper in its top notes and geranium, magnolia and jasmine in its heart.Presented in the brand’s signature squared glass flacon with velvety purple label, “L’Iris” retails for 140 euros for 50 ml and 210 euros for 100 ml.

BAMBOO IS BACK

In 1947, in the midst of the post-war era, when traditional materials were hard to find, Guccio Gucci and the House’s Florentine artisans came up with the idea of using lightweight, durable bamboo for the handle of a new bag that immediately became a classic.

The bamboo handle bag is perhaps most memorably Gucci bag who beginning in 1947 when Gucci introduced its bamboo collection as a solution to leather shortages at the time.  Over 70 years later, it continues to evoke a unique feeling.

For 2022, a swath of designers have incorporated the bamboo handle into their accessory collections, with standout options coming from Loewe, Jil Sander, and of course, Gucci.

It’s also found its way into boutique brands that feel particularly well-suited for the summer months, like a raffia purse from Cult Gaia and a crochet tote from La Milanesa.

ADI DASSLER IN CHINA

While a slowdown in China weighed heavily on Adidas in the first quarter, the company’s executives remained optimistic, predicting a return to growth. Adidas net sales rose only 0.6 percent to 5.3 billion euros in the first quarter and EBIT fell 38.5 percent to 437 million euros.
In the first quarter, revenues from Greater China fell 34.6 percent to generate 1 billion euros, and revenues in the rest of Asia Pacific dropped 15.7 percent to make 506 million euros.
Currently, 45 cities in China are under lockdown due to the country’s & COVID-19 policy, Rorsted noted. Compared to other brands, like Puma, the speedily growing but smaller German sportswear brand, Adidas is much more exposed to the Chinese market.
Around a quarter of Adidas stores in China are currently closed. Adidas expects revenues in China to continue to decline right up until the third quarter of this year,
The numbers in all other territories were far healthier than those in China, with the categories soccer, running and outdoor doing particularly well over the first quarter, Adidas reported.

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MET GAL 2022 AFTER PARTIES

A cloud of birds flying in Manhattan almost naked, it was the after parties of the Met gala in the Big Apple. The Met Gala has just ended, and you slayed the biggest red carpet of the year. Now what? Hit the dancefloor of course! While head-to-toe Prada or Valentino is undoubtedly chic, it’s not exactly the best thing to wear on a Monday when you feel a bit of a Monday night fever. Continue reading

CHANEL TO CATCH A CHIEF

For the last century, Chanel has played an integral role in the life of the tiny principality, beginning with the opening of founder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s first subsidiary here in 1913. Since Lagerfeld’s death in 2019, Virginie Viard has committed to writing the next chapter of the story with her cruise collection, which is equal parts homage to Princess Caroline and tongue-in-cheek wink to pop culture.

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THOM BROWNE FALL 2022

For his big return to the New York catwalks, the designer Thom Browne offers a fall-winter collection inspired by the animated film for children “Rudolph The Little Red-Nosed Reindeer”, comparing the city of New York to the fantasy world of the film. Welcome to Thom Browne’s Island of fashion Misfit Toys.

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SALAM ALAYKOUM KAMARA

Ibrahim Kamara has been appointed art and image director of the brand founded by Virgil Abloh, whose death last year. Ibrahim’s relationship with Virgil, blossomed both personally and professionally in the last three years creating a strong bond based on mutual respect and shared values. From Sierra Leone, Ibrahim Kamara grew up in The Gambia, and will be trained at Central Saint Martins “Cool”, then he joined i-D magazine in 2018, and in January 2021, he was appointed Editor-In-Chief of Dazed magazine.
Kamara has been part of the Off-Whitefor years, styling the shows of the brand in addition to being the stylist of  many other fashion designers, ranging from Riccardo Tisci to Erdem Moralioglu.

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LVMH LUXOTTICA CEO GUERRA LEAVE LVMH

The gérard jugnot of glasses quit LVMh, It is the escape of human brains from luxury groups, for a better and especially less stressful life. The former head of Italian eyewear giant Luxottica is leaving LVMH after leading its hotel business for the past two years, the French luxury goods group said on Thursday.

Guerra, who had also taken on leadership of the group’s Fendi and Loro Piana Italian brands as well as LVMH’s Thelios Eyewear division, will step down at the end of May and become senior adviser to the French group.

“I am glad that he will remain my advisor,” LVMH Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault wrote in a note. A decade later, Guerra led Ray-Ban owner Luxottica until 2014, when he fell out with founder and major shareholder Leonardo Del Vecchio and moved on to high-end food retailer Eataly.

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TED BAKER STREET STYLE

Ted Baker is making progress in finding a new owner, confirming it has asked a handful of prospective bidders to conduct due diligence before making a final offer.

The company did not specify which prospective buyers it selected, only that it had received “a number of nonbinding proposals” from potential buyers and invited “a focused selection” of interested parties to sign NDAs and take a look at the books.

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KNOCKOFF IN CHINA

Thanks to Salvatore Ferragamo and Amazon, Chinese authorities raided a warehouse and seized counterfeit belts.

Amazon.com Inc. announced Tuesday that its Counterfeit Crimes Unit, or CCU, worked with Ferragamo to report a counterfeiter of Ferragamo’s signature Gancini belt to the Market Supervision and Administration, or MSA, authorities located in Yiwu City, Zhejiang Province, China. The raid led to the seizure of hundreds of counterfeit belts and buckle accessories from the criminal’s warehouse.

This is part of Amazon and Ferragamo’s worldwide investigation efforts. Last year, the companies filed two lawsuits in the U.S. Against four individuals and three entities in the Western District of Washington for counterfeiting Ferragamo’s products, alleging that the defendants conspired to use the company’s trademarks without permission.