Category Archives: BREAKING MODE

CAVALLI FAUSTO COPY

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Roberto Cavalli Has Found Its New Creative Director, Fausto Puglisi . Roberto Cavalli has zeroed in on its new creative director, according to sources here, who believe Sicilian designer Fausto Puglisi has been selected for the job.

This isn’t the first time Puglisi’s name is associated with the brand, as he was rumored to join the company back in 2017, but Paul Surridge ended up nabbing the role, succeeding Peter Dundas.

Surridge exited last year, and the collections have been designed by an in-house team since then. Things have changed this time around as Cavalli has a new owner, Hussain Sajwani, who is looking to relaunch the brand with the help of Puglisi, sources say. Continue reading →

THE EXCEPTIONAL SALE OF PRADA AT SOTHEBY’S

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The luxury brand Prada had chosen to auction 40 looks from its autumn-winter 2020 collection as well as the decor of the fashion show in which it was presented last February. Entitled “Tools of Memory”, the operation enabled a donation to be made to UNESCO and the Global Coalition for Education, an educational response to covid-19 .

A Prada sale at 439,362 euros this Wednesday, around 4 p.m., the press release sent by the Prada press department had a taste of success. All the pieces were sold for a total amount of 439,362 euros. The sale brought together 72 items, participants from 27 different countries and a large majority of new bidders: 68 percent of them were first-time participants at Sotheby’s and 30 percent were 40 years old or younger. Continue reading →

FIRST AWARD AT 42 YEARS OLD

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The designer From the flat country, I mean from Belgium for uneducated people,  Tom Van Der Borght won the Première Vision Grand Prize at the 35th edition of the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography, which wrapped on Sunday, winning over a jury headed by designer Jonathan Anderson, founder of JW Anderson and creative director of Loewe.

In a break with its recent tradition of rewarding graduates fresh out of school, finealy. The Hyères jury selected a designer who is already established almost a retired fashion designer, It’s always better than Didier Grumler’s choices for his nights in Toulon. Van Der Borght started his fashion education at the age of 30 and established his label in 2013 after graduating from the Stedelijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten Sint-Niklaas, a fashion school located between Antwerp and his home base of Ghent. Continue reading →

ARNAUD SUPPORT LAGARDÈRE

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Bernard Arnault has again upped his stake in Lagardère SCA, as a French commercial court is expected to wade into a battle between French industry titans for control of the embattled publishing and retail company.

Acting in concert, Groupe Arnault and Financière Agache, the holding company controlled by Groupe Arnault, together with a group of companies controlled by Arnaud Lagardère, chief executive officer of Lagardère, now jointly hold 15.01 percent of the capital of Lagardère SCA and 16.93 percent of voting rights.

The move, revealed by stock market regulator AMF in a filing on Tuesday, comes as a Paris court is set to rule on Wednesday on a request from Vivendi, a media group controlled by French billionaire Vincent Bolloré, and activist investor Amber Capital for an exceptional shareholder meeting, part of their bid to gain board representation. Continue reading →

PERFUMES AND THE WINNER IS

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A variety of independent brands joined the likes of L’Oréal, the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. and Coty Inc., taking home several awards. Diptyque, for example, won both of the home fragrance categories, and Gucci took home three awards for three different scents. Kim Kardashian West even joined the webinar to accept her award for fragrance of the year: Popular.

Among the presenters were designer Jason Wu, Rob Smith, Cher, Lionel Richie and Wes Gordon of Carolina Herrera, each of whom introduced several categories.

Fragrance of the Year, Women’s Luxury: YSL Libre Eau de Parfum, L’Oréal, IFF, Anne Flipo, Carlos Benaïm. Continue reading →

PUMA’S HELPS KERING

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Kering is selling 8.8 million shares, representing 5.9 percent of Puma’s capital. Kering said on Monday it was selling about 8.8 million shares that it owns in Puma, representing 5.9 percent of the German sporting good-maker’s share capital, through a placement to qualified investors.

Since 2018, the group gradually reduced its stake in Puma after spinning off 70 percent of the company to its shareholders as part of a plan to refocus on its luxury division. That move left the Pinault family’s private investment arm Artémis with a 29 percent stake, and Kering with around 16 percent.

“The proceeds of this transaction will be used for the general corporate purposes of Kering and will further strengthen its financial structure,” the French luxury group said in a statement.

Kering’s share price has recovered to its levels at the start of 2020, after plummeting by as much as 39 percent in March as the coronavirus pandemic shut stores and brought factories to a halt. Continue reading →

RICK OWENS SPRING 2021

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That Owens showed in front of the Lido Casino with no audience and not in Paris was a function of the coronavirus pandemic. Venice is two hours away from Owens’ Italian factory, where he’s been holed up. And incidentally, the word quarantine originates from the Venetian language and the region’s response to the bubonic plague in medieval times.

For all of these reasons, his spring collection felt like the defiant fashion act we’ve all been waiting for, what Owens dubbed “an exaggerated middle finger to doom” expressed with major shoulders, thigh-high boots, “lurid” colors, crisp tunics, flowing robes and sculptural capes.

The display was exhilarating, and the free-flowing clothes newsy for Owens, especially the simple yet architectural tunics and the chiffon shrouds in bubblegum pink with trailing ribbons. As he did for his terrific men’s collection for spring, Owens revisited some old, but still good ideas: fishnet tank dresses and hoodies that wink back to the masks used for his fall 2012 show. Continue reading →

VUITTON SHOW ON ROOF TOP SAMARITAINE

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It only took 15 years for Nicolas Ghesquière’s next runway venue to finally be ready: Louis Vuitton will cap off Paris Fashion Week on Oct. 6 with a fashion show at La Samaritaine.

Ghesquière will parade his spring 2021 women’s collection on the top floor of the not-yet-completed complex under a glass dome known as La Rotonde; while those tuning in to the livestream will have a completely different experience thanks to green-screen technology and other digital razzmatazz.

Nicolas’ goal is to create a connection with the guests, according to Vuitton. It is a fashion show that has been designed for digital, but based on a live experience.  Continue reading →

CHANEL A PARIS

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A new exhibition in Paris aims to redress the balance, providing the most extensive overview so far of the creations of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, who revolutionized fashion with her sleek, fluid designs that helped to liberate women from their corsets.

Tweed suits, the little black dress, two-tone shoes and quilted handbags: Chanel’s signature codes are as synonymous with French luxury today as they were a century ago, at the risk of obscuring the woman who launched the brand.

“Gabrielle Chanel. A Fashion Manifesto,” which opens on Oct. 1, coincides with the reopening of the Palais Galliera fashion museum and the inauguration of its new basement space for permanent exhibitions, sponsored by Chanel. Surprisingly, it’s the first major Chanel exhibition to be staged in the French capital. Continue reading →

KHAITE RTW 2021

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While many designers have opted for escapist, feel-good fashion or tried their best to include clothes that work for life at home, Holsten showed a compelling lineup rooted in what one might call power dressing, and worn by models whose determined attitudes approached defiance, as though they’re up to whatever challenges 2020 and beyond throws at them. Continue reading →

FONDATION ELBAZ

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Laurent Malecaze joins Paris-based AZ Fashions from The Webster in New York, and so Alber Elbaz Finds CEO for Fashion Startup. Laurent Malecaze as chief executive officer of his fashion startup, currently ceo of luxury retailer The Webster in New York.

Elbaz confirmed his arrival exclusively and described an instant personal and professional rapport with Malecaze, who helped The Webster accelerate and widen its digital operations. AZfashion touted the hire in a brief statement, noting the two men would develop the overall strategy of AZfashion and oversee its implementation across the venture.

The development comes almost 11 months after Elbaz announced his comeback to fashion in a joint venture with Compagnie Financière Richemont, and should accelerate AZfashion’s launch, which has been delayed due to shutdowns and slowdowns related to the coronavirus crisis. Continue reading →

VIVIENNE HU NYFW 2021

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Hu later moved to the United States for her professional development. She worked at an investment bank for over three years, then attended Parsons School of Design and gained industry experience with Oscar de la Renta and Yigal Azrouel. Hu established her brand and debuted her spring/summer collection in 2012.[The label has two stores in Soho, New York, that opened in 2013 and 2016 respectively,[and its first China store opened in 2015.

A CASTLE FOR CHANEL

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The French fashion house plans to unveil its annual Métiers d’Art collection on Dec. 1 at the Château de Chenonceau, one of the jewels of the Loire valley. The current château was built in 1514–1522 on the foundations of an old mill and was later extended to span the river. The bridge over the river was built (1556-1559) to designs by the French Renaissance architect Philibert de l’Orme, and the gallery on the bridge, built from 1570–1576 to designs by Jean Bullant.

Traditionally a traveling show that has alighted in destinations including Shanghai, Rome, Edinburgh, Salzburg and Dallas, the Métiers d’Art show was held in Paris last December in the wake of the death of Chanel’s longtime creative director Karl Lagerfeld earlier in the year.

Chanel is expected to be one of the first major brands to return to the catwalk this fall, with its show at the Grand Palais on Oct. 6 scheduled to be one of the highlights of Paris Fashion Week, which should also see brands including Dior, Louis Vuitton and Hermès welcome guests in a socially distanced manner. Continue reading →

VIRTUAL FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION AWARDS

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Despite double-digit sales declines in the category over the course of 2020, the fragrance industry had a bright spot Thursday afternoon, thanks to the 2020 Fragrance Foundation Awards webinar, which revealed winners in 25 categories.

Here, see the winners for all categories of the 2020 Fragrance Foundation awards.

Fragrance of the Year, Women’s Luxury: YSL Libre Eau de Parfum, L’Oréal, IFF, Anne Flipo, Carlos Benaïm.

Fragrance of the Year, Women’s Prestige: Lancôme Idôle, L’Oréal, Givaudan, Adriana Medina, Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadege Le Garlantezec.

Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Luxury: Dior Sauvage Parfum, LVMH, Parfums Christian Dior, François Démachy.

Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Prestige: John Varvatos JV x NJ Silver Edition, Revlon, Symrise, Carlos Viñals, Nathalie Benareau. Continue reading →

KARL AND KIM FOR FENDI

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The K.K touch, Jones is to show his first collection for Fendi in February 2021, the Italian brand said in a brief press release.

“Kim Jones is a great talent and since joining, he has continuously proven his ability to adapt to the codes and heritage of the LVMH houses while revisiting them with great modernity and audacity; said Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer at LVMH. At Fendi, I am convinced that his vision and passion will highly contribute to the success of the women’s collections.”

Serge Brunschwig, chairman and ceo of Fendi added: “Kim is one of the most talented and relevant designers of today. With Silvia Venturini Fendi, who has virtuously carried on Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld legacy, Kim will bring his contemporary one of a kind point of view into the world of Fendi.”

It is understood Jones has harbored ambitions to design women’s wear for some time, and held discussions with Versace in Milan in recent years. He is the latest acclaimed men’s wear specialist to broaden his fashion universe to women’s wear, following on the heels of Hedi Slimane. Continue reading →

FROM COCA-COLA TO FRAGRANCE

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A whopper or not ?There’s a new executive structure at Sephora, with Martin Brok joining the world’s largest prestige beauty retailer as president and chief executive officer, reporting to Chris de Lapuente, who previously led the chain for 10 years.

Brok, who most recently was Starbucks Inc.’s president of Europe, Middle East and Africa, will start at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned Sephora on Sept. 14.

Arnault said Brok would be charged with creating the next breakthrough chapter at Sephora,” highlighting his "extensive international leadership experience in multiple fast-paced and client-oriented businesses at a crucial moment of change for global retailing.”

In a letter addressed to Sephora’s more than 35,000 employees, de Lapuente said the executive shake-up would fire up our innovation and accelerate our quest to be the world’s most loved beauty community. Continue reading →

LANVIN NEWS FROM THE EDGE

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Lanvin has tapped Arnaud Bazin as its new deputy general manager. The fashion house confirmed his arrival and said Bazin would work with Grace Zhao, its new deputy general manager for the Asia-Pacific businesses. “Together, Mr. Bazin and Ms. Zhao will oversee the overall strategy for the brand and its implementation globally,” .The lord of luxury dispatches his men everywhere in fashion and luxury groups.

Bazin was most recently senior vice president of collection merchandising at Versace, and has been in that role, a new one, a little over a year. Zhao joined Lanvin last November from Dolce & Gabbana, where she was senior vice president, Asia-Pacific.

“I am very glad that Arnaud has joined us and we will continue to drive the development of the company as a team,” said Joann Cheng, chairman of Lanvin.“We have seen significant growth in Asia-Pacific since Grace joined and we believe it is the second engine for us to display the growth trajectory globally,” she added. Continue reading →