GOLD SAVE THE QUEEN

Burberry’s Kerry Centre Line–Following up its runway presentation in Shanghai last week, we take a look at Burberry’s Kerry Centre exclusive collection. The limited-edition line of trench coats, dresses and accessories will be made available exclusively Continue reading

DIOR IN HONG KONG

Dior gives to Haute Couture a whole new meaning, with a couture runway show set to the Hong Kong skyline. The Spring/Summer 2014 Haute Couture season gets a replay; creative heads decided that the couture show would be presented again for those who missed the January runway in Paris. The show was held at an exquisite and breathtaking infrastructure known as the West Kowloon Heliport venue. Continue reading

CHARLES JAMES

Charles James (American, born in England, 1906–1978). “Butterfly” Dress, 1955. Smoke gray silk chiffon; pale gray silk satin; aubergine, lavender, and oyster white tulle. Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009, Gift of Mrs. John de Menil, 1957 (2009.300.816) .

This design invites multiple interpretations. The form alludes to the extreme bustles of the 1880s and at the same time can be imagined as a transformation of the female body into that of a butterfly with iridescent wings that shimmer when they move. References to the past aside, it was a form hitherto unknown in the history of fashion. Twenty-five yards of tulle were used in its making. Continue reading

GRANVILLE FROM DIOR

Villa “Les Rhumbs”, Christian Dior’s childhood home in Granville, is a Belle Epoque style 19th century clifftop villa overlooking the sea. It is the only “Musée de France” labeled French museum dedicated to a couturier and has been presented, for ten years already, Haute Couture garments on three floors.

The exhibit titled “The Legendary Images: Great Photographers and Dior” will be a tribute to the esteemed shutterbugs who have captured the storied maison’s couture and ready-to-wear designs over the years. By the numbers, there will be 200 images from 80 iconic photographers that encompass 60 years of design, alongside 60 couture gowns, and a handful of significant documents to round out the presentation that features designs by Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, John Galliano, and the most recent looks from Raf Simons and Kris Van Assche.

Among the selected photos featured in the exhibit: Patrick Demarchelier, who launched a Continue reading

ROITFELD INSPIRED BY MAPPLETHORPE?

Robert Mapplethorpe (November 4, 1946, New York City – March 9, 1989, Boston, Massachusetts) was an American photographer, known for his sometimes controversial large-scale, highly stylized black and white photography. His work featured an array of subjects, including celebrity portraits, male and female nudes, and still-life images of flowers. His most controversial work is that of the underground bondage and sadomasochistic BDSM scene in the late 1960s and early 1970s of New York. The homoeroticism of this work fuelled a national debate over the public funding of controversial artworks. There is no doubt now that Mrs Roitfeld surely found her porn chic inspiration from Mapplethorpe. Continue reading

EMPRISE BY LVMH

The Iconic fashion house, Louis Vuitton, introduces its new Emprise jewelry and watch collection with this trippy short named after the line, which explores Parisian origins of the range by taking the viewer through a seemingly never-ending labyrinth of rooms.

You got to wonder how they did it. Louis Vuitton showed its new Emprise collection in an “infinite mirror” installation by contemporary artist Mathias Kiss. The brand unveiled its new video celebrating the collection, an homage to Kiss’ work courtesy of director Raphaël Gianelli-Meriano and the Surface to Air studio. It’s a fast-paced mise en abyme—a telescoped sequence Continue reading

SHIATZY CHEN

Shiatzy Chen is a Taiwanese fashion house, often referred to as the Chanel of Taiwan, and is the eponym of her luxury brand.

She was born in 1951 in Changhua, Taiwan and founded the company in 1978. The brand spirit for Shiatzy Chen is “neo-Chinese chic”, which transfers historical Chinese aesthetics into modern fashion design.

The brand is known for its distinctive design features drawn from Chinese culture such as qipao collars, knot buckles or patterns in a Chinese ink painting. The ink stone, along with paper, brush and ink stick, make up what is called the “Four Treasures of Scholarly Study”.

The ink stone from which the collection gets its name is a large water-holding reservoir and mortar used for the grinding and containment of ink. Flowers are imprinted on boxy jackets as well as on fluid skirts.

When they appeared in 3D Chanel of Taiwan and black ink, I try to understand if that girl could be the next Karl Lagerfeld of the Wertheimer Group?

PACO RABANNE DARE UGLY

I have looked at all the photos of the Paco Rabanne’s Fashion Show to find something that would not destroy the design of the blog. I found nothing. The owner of Paco Rabanne, the Puig Group, once again, makes a copy quite below the brand it wants to give to the world of fashion industry.

Indeed, “dare ugly” – it may be a new marketing concept? There is really no reason for this collection to be sold or shown to an audience of professionals because, obviously, we can not in any case judge a collection that clearly seems to have been made by students of first year of the Chambre Syndicale.

Mrs. Julien Dossena checks out, does like other foreign designers in France and copies the Haute Couture collections.
Over the last 30 years, thanks to Mr. Karl Otto Lagerfeldt, we have already experienced a revisitied German style. Therefore, Madam, after the ugly, dare beautiful !

FOCUS ON SACHA WALCKHOFF

The French-Swiss designer worked with Lacroix during 17 years until the famous fashion house was shuttered in 2009. The label was reopened and Walckhoff was appointed as the new creative director.

“The last year has been all about rethinking and rebuilding strategies and finding new ways to express the skills of our wonderful house and finding new partners to do it,” says the designer. “We have been travelling a lot for that: London to work on our home fabrics line made with The Designer Guild, New York for our stationary line by Libretto and Paris, of course as always, so the collection is the reflection of our last year of new ventures. Continue reading

SCHIAPARELLI – SIX FEET DEEP

Zanini killed for the second time Schiaparelli 60 years later the last brand fashion show. Today, Schiaparelli, owned by Diego Della Valle is back in the fashion arena with a first Haute Couture collection. The pencil of Marco Zanini was not convincing and it would probably be his first and last fashion show.

In the front row, Jean-Paul  Gaultier, Bruno Frisoni, Elle MacPherson, Ines de la Fressange and former first Lady of France, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy… – not really a fashion show, more a red carpet show – where were the real fashion people:  Wintour, Menkes, Canal-luxe, etc. Continue reading

DIOR READY TO HAUTE COUTURE


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When the ready-to-wear means Haute Couture! When Dior has just reached the depth of the non-absolute creation. Zara and its prohibitive prices on the French market will pass through out Dior. Zara will become the Paramount ready to Haute Couture.

Absolute cynicism from LVMH to make us believe that Haute Couture is ready-to-wear and vice-versa. Last year, the collection was better. Unfortunately this year, it is pathetic, boring and without any creativity.

Copy-paste, Continue reading