JOSSE WORKCRAFT OF SPIRIT

From the rue Vivienne to Herculaneum, the main representative of neoclassical has raised this precision craft to a degree of unprecedented excellence between antique and baroque, like an immemorial style that I would call “the true style” . It is the desire for a return to the roots, which has its origin in the epistemology architect of fashion as Robert Adam, the duo Percier and Fontaine and as sculptors Antonio Canova and Bertel Thorvaldsen. Christophe Josse prints his mark on the amphiteatre de la mode.

Christophe Josse or the story of a passion, he began at Louis Féraud for which he was the assistant during three years. This experience makes him want to continue this job. Very shy, he refuses every interview, but no matter, the few people ever requested. Continue reading

DELVAUX OPENS STORE IN MILANO

Following the opening of a store on London’s Sloane Street last May, Belgian accessories label Delvaux, which was founded in Brussels in 1829, inaugurated on Tuesday its first boutique in Milan.

The flagship, which carries the house’s collection of luxury bags, is located on Via Bagutta, inside the historic Palazzo Reina, a recently restored palazzo in the heart of Milan’s Golden Triangle luxury shopping district.

Combing Belgian interior design with Italian decorative elements, the store welcomes visitors with a curved hallway conceived by Saint-Gilles’ fine arts academy Van Der Kelen, which leads to a space featuring an impressive bookcase by 20th-century Italian designer Ignazio Gardella.

HERMÈS NO SPORT IN THE CITY

The shapes were modern based on 181 years of Hermès savoir-faire and 30 years of Nichanian without experience from the School of Chambre Syndicale. So yes there was a tracksuit, but you couldn’t call it sportswear unless your sport of choice is looking like the ultimately understated contemporary man of leisure; the parisian “bobo”.

Cut, like much of the outerwear in this collection, in étrivière lambskin, almost black but with a slight teal hue, and featuring the same zippered detail at the cuffed hem that ran through many of the pants in this collection, it was outrageously neutral in its simpleness. The H-fronted sports sandal below it told you where it was from, if you didn’t have the eye to know already. There were some ridiculously difficult to achieve T-shirts, pants, and a knit cardigan with a front panel in four-color lines of water snake: again the straightforwardness of the silhouette was belied by the technique of the garment. And so it went.

Bags included what looked like an oversized Birkin in blue with gently off-color spray details and versions of the Plume in the same colorway, plus crocodile. Continue reading

VUITTON ABLOH AND WEST

As Virgil Abloh took his bow after his debut men’s wear show for Louis Vuitton, he embraced his mentor, Kanye West, and the two men openly wept tears of joy.
The designer from Rockford, Ill., who four years ago launched his streetwear label Off-White with the aim of revolutionizing high fashion, had a theory about what it meant for him to reach the top rungs of the industry.

The clothes themselves signaled the dawning of a new era. Neither pure streetwear, nor straightforward luxury, they sat somewhere in between, with all the trial and error that comes with mapping new territory.

In a preview at the Louis Vuitton studio, Abloh said he wanted to start with a blank slate. His color scheme was based on white light hitting a prism and separating into a spectrum of hues, with shades ranging from off-white (naturellement) to the multicolored palette of “The Wizard of Oz.”

Abloh likened himself to the character played by Judy Garland, the “farm girl from the Midwest transported to Oz, a fairy-tale land where she experiences things beyond the reach of her imagination.” Along his yellow brick road, he found transfigured basics: a jacket made of white mink; a camel double-faced cashmere hoodie, and a tie-dye T-shirt in white leather. Continue reading

GIVENCHY AND HUBERT FOREVER

Clare Waight Keller is to dedicate the Givenchy Fall 2018 couture show in Paris on July 1 to house founder Hubert de Givenchy, who died in March at age 91.

Givenchy said the collection would be “an homage to his iconic creations, technique and personal lexicon” and a “celebration of his timeless elegance and grace, imbued with Waight Keller’s fresh take on the Givenchy spirit.” Continue reading

A PALAZZO FOR ZEGNA

For his latest Milan tour, Alessandro Sartori at sunset on Friday led the fashion crowd to the Palazzo Mondadori, a monumental Oscar Niemeyer-designed structure rising out of a flat landscape and framed by a series of concrete arches.

Set in a nature reserve on the edge of the Idroscalo Lake, the spectacular waterside building combining concrete and stone was commissioned in 1968, the same year in which Zegna’s ready-to-wear line was launched. And Sartori saw it as the perfect architectural incarnation of the design principles of his spring collection: “graphic and voluminous, but without weight.”

In his quest for weightlessness, Alessandro Sartori in his development of an athletic sartorial journey experimented with performance fabrics to the lightest of nylons

A bridge stretching across the water, with schools of small fish darting through, had been transformed into a mirrored catwalk bordered with benches, giving guests the feeling of walking on water as they took to their seats. Continue reading

DRIES VAN NOTEN ACQUIRED BY PUIG

Puig, the family-owned Spanish fragrance and fashion firm, has just been acquired by the Belgian fashion label known for its dignified and elegant designs.

“Puig will be the majority owner alongside Dries, who remains, over the long term, a significant minority shareholder,” the companies said jointly in a statement on Thursday. “Additionally, Dries Van Noten will continue as chief creative officer and chairman of the board.”

Dries, baron Van Noten (born 12 May 1958 in Antwerp) is a Belgian fashion designer and an eponymous fashion brand. In 2005, the New York Times described him as “one of fashion’s most cerebral designers”. His style is said to be “eccentric”, and fell out of favor during the long period of minimalistic fashion in the early 1990s, only to make a comeback towards the mid-2000s,culminating with Van Noten’s winning of the International Award of the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 2008. Continue reading

RED COLOR FOR LOUBOUTIN

The designer Christian Louboutin claimed an important victory in his ongoing battle to trademark red soles, after the European Court of Justice on Tuesday supported the company’s claim that the use of a specific shade of red on the underside of its shoes constitutes a recognizable characteristic of the brand.

The ruling by the European Union’s highest court comes in the context of a dispute between Louboutin and Dutch high street shoe brand Van Haren dating back to 2012. A Dutch district court in The Hague asked the European Court of Justice to rule on the nature of Louboutin’s trademark before it settles the matter.

Louboutin’s lawyers argued, on the contrary, that the trademark consisted of “the color red (Pantone 18‑1663TP) applied to the sole of a shoe,” regardless of the shape of the sole.

At issue was whether Louboutin’s trademark should be considered a shape trademark or a position trademark an important distinction as European trademark law does not protect signs consisting exclusively of the shape of a product. Continue reading

BE AN INFLUENCER IN SORBIER

Franck Sorbier, in his constant conceptual research on the future of Haute Couture and luxury, maintains his strategy in a post-apocalyptic area. By himself, he maintains the whole values of Haute Couture in this world, to keep the fundaments than others try to erase and to level down in order to be able to raise themselves by a mechanical effect.

We are not at the limit of poetry but we are in pure poetry; a fashion concept looking like a Manet or a Van Gogh. More specifically a moment to forget this world so unfair.

Beautiful memories are also the quintessence of fashion and as Camus used to say: “the way you name things can add to the misery of the world.”

THE NEXT ÉDITION AUTOMNE-HIVER 2018-2019. To book a ticket for Haute couture click here

CHANEL DA SVIDÁNIYA

This is how Chanel last presented a fashion show in the Russian capital in 2009, then, its Métiers d’art Paris-Moscou collection and its traveling photo exhibition “Little Black Jacket” in Moscow in 2012.
But fashion show in Moscow on Thursday night, parading his Paris-Hamburg Art Crafts collection in a vast industrial space for Chanel. The factory touch of our preferred powdery  dandy. Continue reading

SHISEIDO A DIRECTOR OF FRAGRANCE

Japanese cosmetics group Shiseido has recently appointed Isabelle Gex as President of Global Fragrances, a newly created post. She will start in her new role on 11th June.

Before joining Shiseido, Isabelle Gex founded and directed Stratlux, a French company specialised in mentoring start-ups in the fields of luxury, fashion and the arts. Between 2001 and 2017, she worked for the LVMH group, her latest role being Senior Executive Advisor on mergers and acquisitions. She also formerly worked as International Marketing Director Perfumes and Cosmetics at Chanel.

At Shiseido, Isabelle Gex will be in charge of the fragrance licences for Dolce & Gabbana, Narciso Rodriguez, Issey Miyake, Elie Saab, Zadig & Voltaire, Alaïa and Serge Lutens, the only brand which will continue to operate independently. Gex will report to Franck Marilly, the EMEA region’s CEO for Shiseido, and to Masahiko Uotani, the Shiseido group’s CEO, and will also be tasked with seeking external growth opportunities via brand and licence acquisition. She will oversee the Japanese group’s centre of excellence for fragrances, which is located in Paris. Continue reading

LÉTRANGE MISTER BAG

The artistic direction of the brand Létrange, Mathias Jaquemet, wants the brand name to be recognized as a seal of excellence in leather goods”.

Létrange was founded in 1838 by Auguste Lespiaut, a saddler at the former stables of the Palais du Louvre, and was recognised as bigger than Hermès in size,

As the company grew, the range of goods increased ranging from hunting, travel accessories, molded leather bicycle to photography equipment. The brand’s atelier is located in the eastern Paris suburb of Montreuil. Continue reading

AGANOVICH HAUTE CONNECTIONS

Aganovich is the only new fashion house set to showcase on the Fashion Week Haute Couture calendar that has been elected as guest member by the Board of the Chambre Syndicale.

Founded in 2005 by Irish writer Brooke Taylor and Danish designer Nana Aganovich, a graduate of Central Saint Martins School, the Paris-based house has been showcasing for years its pure elegance, inspired by the movements of futurism, constructivism and Bauhaus, giving rise to collections mostly in a palette of black and white.

Aganovich has also recently ventured into ‘Made in America’ production for its line of t-shirts, dubbed the ‘LA t-shirt project’, created in collaboration with Los Angeles Apparel (the new brand and production studio of Dov Charney, the founder of American Apparel).

Last year, they have also launched an “ethical laboratory” called “Invisible Acts”. A line focused on slow fashion as well as its first fragrance. Good luck and welcome in Paris Haute Couture. Continue reading

J’ADIOR MYKONOS

Dior is opening a Pop-up shop in Mykonos in June. Maria Grazia Chiuri has designed exclusive pieces, including Dior Book Tote bags featuring the name of the island woven into the canvas.

Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of women’s collections at the French fashion house, has designed a collection of exclusive pieces for the occasion, including striped bodysuits and sweaters, silk cravats and cotton pareos bearing the slogan “J’adior Mykonos.”

The boutique will also carry advance items from Dior’s fall collection, including Dior Oblique zipped pouches, baseball caps and berets, and a Dioraddict bag that can be accessorized with a choice of five straps. These items will be available in Dior boutiques worldwide from mid-July.

The Greek influence could be felt in his designs from 1953, with dresses carrying names such as Athènes, Corfou and Rhodes. Maria is reinventing in copying looks in the archives of the Fashion House! At Myconos, Dior is becoming Iconos!

BURBERRY GOOD THE LEATHER

Burberry is buying out its longstanding Italian manufacturer CF&P. Employees, including the team of craftsmen who have worked closely with Burberry for more than a decade, will transfer to the company on completion of the transaction, which is expected later this year.

Marco Gobbetti, Burberry’s chief executive officer, called the acquisition a major milestone for the brand and “a statement of our ambition in this strategically important category.” He said the purchase would create a “center of excellence” for Burberry’s leather goods. “This will give us greater control over quality, cost, delivery and sustainability of our leather goods,” Gobbetti said. Continue reading

TATIANA V LYALINA

On May 9, a fashion show of a successful and young Russian designer Tatiana V. Lyalina will be held in Dubai. The fashion designer will demonstrate to the public her collection called Dolce Vita which was inspired by Maria Antoinette – a real connoisseur of luxury, the queen of France and glamour. Continue reading