Category Archives: BREAKING MODE
KARL 30 YEARS AT CHANEL’S
“Karl Lagerfeld is almost as synonymous with Chanel as Coco Chanel herself today, but there was a time when the actual legendary designer was nervously working on his first Chanel collection, Couture for fall 1983. This being the notoriously work-centric Lagerfeld, he was toiling simultaneously for Chloé and Fendi and a “myriad of other clients.”
Not much has changed on that front as the infamously productive designer still heads up multiple houses, including Fendi and his namesake line, but when he first joined Chanel, only part time initially, he wasn’t welcomed with particularly open arms.
Lagerfeld made it through any tensions and overcame his frustrations with the slow production pace of couture and yanked Chanel into the Eighties with his first designs pulling inspiration from the Twenties and Thirties, while decidedly ignoring Chanel’s “comeback” era of the Fifties. But this was a risk, as was Lagerfeld’s decision to move away from the pastels and boxy suits the house had become more-or-less known for. Continue reading
MOST EXPENSIVE BULL GARY
Bulgari has announced the sale of the jewelery-fragrance “Opera Prima”, the most expensive perfume in the history of high perfumery like the publicity of Jean Patou for Joy fragance in 1950. The precious bottle, decorated with diamonds, was bought by a private customer, who paid more than 200 000 euros.
Launched in 2014, on the occasion of the 130th anniversary of the Bulgari House, which wanted to pay tribute to its origins and to the Italian know-how. The perfume “Opera Prima” created the buzz when it was revealed. The result of the encounter between the art of jewelery and the art of perfumery, the fragrance, which had been exhibited for a time at Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, was already estimated at an exceptional price of 200,000 euros and will probably be sold in the new concept store “La Samaritaine” of LVMH, new Hotel Cheval blanc in Paris.
Created by the master perfumer, Daniela Andrier, the juice of “Opera Prima” pays homage to the Mediterranean scents, with hints of lemon, orange blossom, musks and, of course, floral fragrances. However, the luxurious and unique character of the perfume comes primarily from its bottle, made in collaboration with the famous glass factory Venini. The bottle is inspired by Roman amphorae.
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CHRISTOPHE JOSSE COUTURE
GALIA LAHAV 2018 PARIS
ON AURA TOUT VU BEST SHOW 2018
This is at this time with dior the best show Paris Fashion Week 2018. Breaks introduced by the Haute Couture over the years to give their own interpretation codes. Diverting fashion and glamor. The designers Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov stand out for several years for their extravagant and original creations, far from conventional classic haute couture fashion.
The stars are crazy for their creations. The success of designers is immediate and unparalleled. Always on hand with their own unique and singular way of creativity.
Today, brand, presents each season during the Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week but is also invested in other areas such as ready-to-wear, accessories, design objects, decor, makeup, perfumes as well as costumes and scenography for ballet performances and music. At this time the best show in paris 2018. Continue reading
CELINE AND EASY SLIMANE
One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Hedi Slimane is to lead Céline into men’s wear, couture and fragrance as its new artistic, he is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week.
It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the Kering-owned house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, betweenr
2012 and 2016 all the while maintaining a close rapport with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior
In a curious twist of fate, Slimane will be reunited with Sidney Toledano, the legendary chief executive officer of Dior, who recruited the designer to propel the storied couture house into men’s fashion. Continue reading
MARGIELA PARIS 2018
The designer John Galliano added his dose of cinematic fantasy plastic overlayers and matching aviators figured among the styling tricks to the Maison Margiela men’s wardrobe. Introducing Artisanal pieces to the line, he put his own stamp on the relaxed suit, reinterpreted in a bias cut.
Skeletal structure in fur on an oversized yellow bomber, giving a harness effect. Shadows crept across a flocked navy bomber, while an orange rubber cardigan in an Aran knit motif that quivered down the runway was pure showpiece.
The collection also had its fair share of commercial pieces, like the sharply cut plain beige suit worn with patent leather cowboy boots, which was supercool, and a slim red nylon sports jacket tucked into pants like a shirt. Continue reading
LOUIS VUITTON MENSWEAR PARIS
VALENTINO MENSWEAR PARIS 2018
MOSCHINO WOMEN PRE MILAN 2018
ZALANDO DRUGSTORE & ROLF
Viktor & Rolf are taking their conscious couture philosophy to a wider audience with a collection for Zalando that is made from left over clothing.
It also marks the debut of Zalando’s new recycle project, which is aimed at raising awareness around sustainability in fashion and consumption.
“We have been working on the idea of recycling for a couple of seasons in our couture shows in various ways, and we feel quite strongly about it. We said to ourselves it would be so great to take this to a bigger audience. It was great fun to think about ways to translate a couture idea into a ready-to-wear idea, and to have it industrially produced.” Continue reading
ALIBABA AND THE 40 CHINESES
Xinhua, CEO of Chinese giant Alibaba, will soon sign an agreement with Paris to install a logistics center in France and to increase the sale of French products on its trading platforms online.
“We are planning to open a logistics center in France, we are currently looking for a site and partners,” said the founder of the Chinese number one of the e-commerce, on the sidelines of the meeting between French and Chinese presidents, Emmanuel Macron and Xi Jinping, at the People’s Palace in Beijing.
Jack Ma met Emmanuel Macron last Tuesday morning with also Richard Liu, boss of JD.com, number two of the Chinese e-commerce, which also announced to want to set up in France and promised to sell for 2 billion euros of French products on its platforms within two years. Continue reading
EDWARD CRUTCHLEY 2018 LONDON
TOURNE DE TRANSMISSION LONDON
Graeme Gaughan, Tourne de Transmission’s creative director, returned to foreign cultures for fall 2018, the inspiration material that fueled his rise on the men’s wear scene. “I got a bit distracted in the last few seasons, this season it was images in photographer Lee Gordon’s book, “Kanaval: Vodou, Politics and Revolution on the Streets of Haiti,” that galvanized his return to form.
Jacmel’s Carnival celebrations are famous across Haiti, and every year thousands of partygoers descend on the city to take part in this fantastic spectacle. Jacmel turns into one giant street theater for the event: it’s a world away from the sequins and sparkle of Carnival in Rio de Janeiro.
Gordon’s images of the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti, in the Nineties depict men smeared in paint or mud wearing dresses, and children in ill-fitting suits gathered to reenact a grisly story from their history. Continue reading
FASHION CAMPAIGNS 2018
Spring 2018 Ad Campaigns: Calvin Klein Jeans, Kaia Gerber, 16 and Presley Gerber, 18, children of Cindy Crawford and Rande Gerber.
Spring 2018 Ad Campaigns: Dior, Dior’s spring campaign features Sasha Pivovarova, the model and artist who opened Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring runway show wearing a T-shirt printed with the title of Linda Nochlin’s essay, “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?” Continue reading
EMILIO PUCCI PRE 2018
TRUMP TAX A BOOM FOR LVMH
The $1.5 trillion overhaul of the U.S. tax system that President Trump signed into law just before Christmas has put retailers and fashion brands into an unfamiliar situation with some extra cash coming and incentives to put it to work.
The experts agree that legislating a much-lower corporate tax rate, falling to 21 percent from about 35 percent, will give the corporate world of fashion a significant boost and might well help workers, too. The biggest beneficiaries will be U.S.-domiciled corporations that derive a majority of profits in the U.S.
Among the biggest gainers will be the department store operators such as Nordstrom Inc., Kohl’s Corp. and Macy’s Inc., which derive essentially all their profits from the U.S. It has been estimated that the tax overhaul would boost Nordstrom’s earnings per share 25.5 percent for 2018, while Kohl’s may gain 22 percent and Macy’s take would increase by 21 percent. Continue reading
A LAST MINUTE NEW YEAR’S
Years Eve might only be four days away, but you’d be forgiven for having not yet planned what you’re going to wear due to a whirlwind of office Christmas parties, present giving and mince pie eating. Continue reading
BETTY TRAN IN PARIS
WHAT NEXT PHILOSOPHY
According to a source with knowledge of the matter, Philo will not work for another label in the near future and her successor at the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned house will be named in the coming months.
She wants to take a break, as she has done in the past, after resigning from Chloé in 2006 and noting the emphasis she places on her private life. The fall 2018 collection to be presented in March, as well as pre-fall presented in January, will be the last collections crafted by the designer for the brand, who leaves the company in January.
In the interim, the label’s collections will be designed by Céline teams, “in keeping with the craftsmanship the house is renowned for,”. Continue reading
DEMMA GVASALIA SPITITUS
With irony you can ask questions that are delicate, but there’s a thin line between irony and sarcasm so I have to be careful not to overstep it. I made a bag for my first men’s show at Balenciaga, which was based on the classic Ikea bag. It was ironic but also authentic.
I used the blue Ikea bag during my four years as a student in Antwerp, due to its size and its price. Fifty percent of all students had the same bag for the same reasons, When I did it at Balenciaga I recycled leather that the company had on stock from previous collections, and I finished it as a luxury product. I meant it as an ironic gesture in part, taking something really cheap and moving it into the luxury realm. But it’s authentic too, and that’s why it’s been all over the internet by now. People can relate. Continue reading
MIREN ARZALLUZ
Congratulation to the Spanish Director Miren Arzalluz who has just been appointed at the head of Palais Gelliera.
She has a dozen years of experience in fashion conservation to the position, including eight years at the helm of the Cristobal Balenciaga Foundation. She has a fashion history degree from the Courtauld Institute of Art in London and worked on a number of fashion exhibits over the years, including “Fashion Mix.”
The Mayor of Paris, Anne Hidalgo, whose the french Parisian calls “Notre Drame de Paris” is delighted to welcome a compatriote. We wish her good luck and hope she will be the new “luz” light of the museum. Continue reading
GUCCI PLACES TO BE
Gucci reinvents “Instagram”. Earlier this year Gucci has launched an application called “Gucci Places” using geolocation services on user’s phones that sends them a push notification when they are near a Gucci shop. Once in the place, the user can earn corresponding badges and share them on social media.
The aim is to invite aficionados to discover unexpected stories about these places, and to form a community. The first Gucci Place was the Chatsworth in Derbyshire, England, where Gucci was supporting an exhibition of clothing and memorabilia baptized “House Style”, as well as where it realized its Cruise 2017 advertising campaign.
The latest Gucci places to discover include: The Angelica Library, in Rome, Italy; the Castello Sonnino, in Montespertoli, Italy; The Assouline House, in London, England; the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), in Los Angeles, California; Bibo restaurant, in Hong Kong; and the Waltz store in Nakameguro, Tokyo, Japan. Continue reading