DIOR CROISIÈRE 2018
CAVALLI A NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR
On Wednesday the British designer Paul Surridge was appointed as the new creative director of Cavalli. Sir Paul, who has previously worked at Clavin Klein, Burberry and Jil Sander, will head all of the group’s lines and he will showcase his first season in Milan in September 2017, with the spring-summer 2018 collection, Cavalli said.
Chief Executive Gian Giacomo Ferraris, who launched a deep restructuring of the group seven months ago including cutting staff by nearly a third and shutting down stores, said the appointment of Surridge is part of “ambitious development plans” for the brand.
An alumni of London’s famed fashion institute Central Saint Martins, Surridge most recently headed one of the lines of Italian luxury tailor Zegna and was creative consultant of Swedish fashion house Acne Studios. Continue reading
SITUATIONIST TBILISI 2017
KARL AND PESQUET
Karl Lagerfeld has revealed his true inspiration behind his space-themed show for Chanel last March: French astronaut Thomas Pesquet, who has kept the nation in thrall with his regular reports from the International Space Station since November.
The designer hooked up with the cosmonaut for a remote interview broadcast on French radio France Info. “I admire him. In fact, I was indirectly inspired not only by where he is, but also by his personality, because I think he is more charismatic than his predecessors,”.
Asked if he would like to trade places with Pesquet, Lagerfeld demurred. “No, I think it’s a little late for that. And the training is terrifying, on top of which I only speak four languages, and he must speak six, so you see, it’s not enough,”.
The designer did have one special request. “Is there a way to design a room in my house where I float around? I would quite enjoy that.
ARNAULT ENDORSES MACRONECONOMIC
Last Friday, Bernard Arnault became the first major fashion industry executive after Pierre Berger, to support French presidential candidate Emmanuel Macron.
Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton provides weight support to the center-left politician and former economy minister in an opened column published in French newspaper Les Echos.
Recently the magnate feared another major economic crisis, stating record-low interest rates; high stock prices; geopolitical uncertainty, with potential conflicts in the areas of trade, customs and currencies, and continued low growth in Europe. Continue reading
MONIQUE L’HUILLIER IN PARIS
Monique Lhuillier will join American labels Rodarte and Proenza Schouler in showing its spring ready-to-wear collection during the Paris haute couture shows. While the U.S. brands are not officially on the haute couture schedule, both Rodarte and Proenza Schouler have been invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture to show as guest designers at the upcoming edition this July.
Monique Lhuillier is the latest in a string of American designers who will be leaving New York Fashion Week to show their collections in Paris. The designer, who is headquartered in Los Angeles, is best known for her evening, bridal and red carpet gowns.
Monique Lhuillier designs capture the essence of sophisticated luxury by provoking femininity, allure and glamour that have made her renowned in the world of design. Monique’s innate sense of style is prevalent throughout her ready-to-wear, accessories and bridal collections. Continue reading
CHANEL GREECE IN PARIS
For his latest Chanel cruise collection, Karl Lagerfeld couldn’t find a venue in Greece that he liked so he brought Greece to Paris instead. The designer built a replica of the Temple of Poseidon in the Galerie south west of the Grand Palais.
BANDERAS PRESIDENT
Miami Fashion Week, which was relaunched last year under new management, has evolved into an entirely new event featuring cruise collections. The event is slated for May 31st to June 4th.
All runway shows will take place at Ice Palace Film Studios at 59 NW 14th Street in Miami.
Eight designers are participating among whose Attila Kiss of Balenciaga and Orsola de Castro of Fashion Revolution will lead conferences to raise awareness of ethical production, labor and environmental policies in the creation of fashion.
Miami Fashion week honorary president, Antonio Banderas, is expected to welcome celebrities, models and influencers to the Master Classes, runway shows, after parties and pop-up events. The events are scheduled to be broadcasted in two television specials; both programs are set to air internationally in the weeks following the event. Continue reading
ZUHAIR MURAD BRIDAL SPRING 2018
CHANEL KNOCKOFF
Chanel, a fierce protector of its intellectual property, is taking action against 30 Amazon sellers, all of which allegedly had been actively selling a range of counterfeit Chanel products, such as handbags, T-shirts and cell phone covers emblazoned with the brand name.
Chanel is facing some pushback in its $60 million suit against a set of Amazon sellers that have been suspended from the online marketplace for allegedly offering counterfeit merchandise.
Two of the sellers identified as “Angela Pasecha” and “Juanjuan Liu” asked Chanel to drop the claims against them.
Brands such as Gucci and Moose Knuckles, which makes luxury parkas, have recently received default judgments in similar actions due to the total non-response of defendants. Continue reading
BALLOON INFLATES THE MARKET
After 20 consecutive months of declining exports, sales of Swiss timepieces saw a 7.5 percent uptick in March, reaching 1.6 billion Swiss francs, or $1.6 billion at average exchange.
Analysts estimated that adjusted for calendar effects, sales still dropped, by around 2 percent. Yet after nearly two years of declines impacted by the crackdown on luxury gifting in China and a slowdown in Hong Kong the biggest international market for Helvetic timepieces as Chinese tourists chose other travel destinations, the uptick was seen as reassuring. The March data is likely to be seen as a turning point in the destocking cycle led by Mainland China and Hong Kong.
While sales of watches made of precious metal continued to decline, falling 0.7 percent, revenues for steel watches grew 12.5 percent and jumped 15.1 percent for bi-metallic timepieces. Continue reading
INST MARANGONI & MAURIZIO PECORARO
DIOR NEWS
LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said on Tuesday it has made an offer to buy Christian Dior Couture for 6.5 billion euros, or $7.06 billion at current exchange rates, in a move that will bring the brand into the fold of its fashion and leather goods division.
In tandem, Groupe Arnault, the investment firm controlled by LVMH chairman and chief executive officer Bernard Arnault, will make an offer estimated at 12 billion euros, or $13.04 billion, for the 25.9 percent stake in Christian Dior SA that it does not currently control.
Presently, the Christian Dior Group includes Christian Dior Couture and LVMH. Christian Dior Couture encompasses the brand’s apparel, accessory and jewelry businesses, while the perfume and cosmetics lines are exercised under the umbrella of LVMH.
The move by LVMH and Groupe Arnault will simplify the structure of the luxury behemoth, home to brands including Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Guerlain, Sephora and Moët & Chandon champagne. Continue reading
DIOR COUTURE TOKYO 2017
KARL AND JOHN B
Karl Lagerfeld one of the world’s most famous, prolific and admired designers receive the 2017 John B. The recognition for Lagerfeld comes as the multitasking designer readies Chanel’s cruise collection for a Paris runway on May 3 and amidst an illustrious career that has spanned more than 60 years.
The German designer is most closely associated with Chanel, where he has been its couturier since 1983. He is also the creative force behind the furs and ready-to-wear at Fendi, which he has designed since 1965, and his signature fashion house, now best known for handbags in the burgeoning affordable luxury segment.
He is also an accomplished photographer, shooting ad campaigns for the Chanel, Fendi and Karl brands, plus a diverse roster of outside clients. He also does editorial shoots for many fashion magazines and has recently taken on a host of interior design projects, including condominium lobbies and hotels. Continue reading
INSTITUTO MARANGONI & MAURIZIO PECORARO
FTC INFLUENCES CELBRITIES
After reviewing Instagram posts by celebrities, athletes and other influencers, the Federal Trade Commission has sent out 90 letters to various influencers and marketers reminding them to clearly disclose their relationships to brands when promoting products on social media.
The FTC is taking a harder look at how media companies are working with influencers amid the rise of paid or branded content. In the past, influencers, such as the Kardashian sisters, have been called out for not labeling promoted products.
The FTC has sent to the 90 influencers and marketers its guides, which the agency hopes will serve as a tool. Still there is no set way to label paid posts, which some have argued is part of a larger problem.
THE EMPEROR OF LUXURY HONORED
This week, France’s Emperor of Luxury, François Pinault, received France’s high distinction, the “Dignité de Grand Croix” in the “Légion d’Honneur”.
Last November the Italian government honored Pinault for his support for Italian luxury brands and his contribution to modern art, namely through his Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana in Venice.
Pinault founded the luxury conglomerate Kering, whose portfolio includes Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga. The company is now managed by his son François-Henri Pinault.
The “Legion d’Honneur”, or Ordre national de la Légion d’honneur, is the highest French order of merit for military and civil merits, established in 1802 by Napoléon Bonaparte. Continue reading
HUSSEIN BAZAZA DUBAI 217
OZ FRENCH GROUP
Magi is already closely linked to Kookaï, since it produces part of the fashion retailer’s range in its factories in Sri Lanka and Fiji, and also sells them via 38 Australian stores. Magi is seeking to go more upmarket, and also to start establishing itself in North America.
Vivarte Group is reportedly going to sell fashion retailer Kookaï to Australian group next June. Pataugas and Chevignon became official in summer 2016. Then, in January, Vivarte’s management announced the decision to put Naf Naf and André on the market too.
After the sale last December of the Compagnie Vosgienne footwear company, and once the sale of André, Naf Naf, Pataugas, Chevignon, Kookaï and Merkal will have gone through, the Vivarte group will own the retail chains La Halle, Caroll, Minelli, San Marina, Besson and CosmoParis.
LVMH ANNUAL POLISH
“In my opinion, it is at times like these, when the results are excellent, that you need to be most attentive, most vigilant and most cautious. Indeed, experience shows there is nothing worse in a successful company than self-satisfaction, and this tends to have an effect that is both numbing and demotivating, ” Arnault told on Thursday at a meeting at the Carrousel du Louvre, not so fare from the Vuitton exposition by Koons.
At the group’s full-year results press conference at the beginning of the year, Arnault startled analysts by warning that the luxury sector could be headed for its biggest correction since the 2008 collapse of Lehman Brothers.
Arnault sidestepped a question about his relationship with U.S. President Donald Trump and Russian President Vladimir Putin, both of whom he has met in recent months, but said demand was picking up in both countries. Continue reading
TOM FORD WINTER 2017
OH MY GOGH
Louis Vuitton unveils a new collection of bags and accessories designed with the artist In recent years, Louis Vuitton has affirmed its engagement with the world of art through a series of high-profile collaborations with the most influential artists of our times.
In the French House’s latest collaboration, Louis Vuitton is working with the New York-based artist Jeff Koons to create a new range of bags and accessories to be launched on 28th April.
One of the most widely recognised figures in contemporary art, Koons has brought imagery from his long-standing ‘Gazing Ball’ paintings a series of large-scale hand-painted reproductions of works by the Old Masters to a range of Louis Vuitton products. His re-creations of masterpieces by da Vinci, Titian, Rubens, Fragonard and Van Gogh have been transposed on to such iconic Louis Vuitton bags as the Speedy, the Keepall and the Neverfull. Continue reading