FASHION RETAIL

The Fashion brands accounted for more than 40 percent of retail floor space leased across Europe. Other brands fast opening doors across the region include the French down-jacket retailer JOTT (Just Over the Top) and the U.S. sportswear retailer Lids.

Fashion also accounted for the largest share of leases for bigger spaces larger than 11,000 square feet in the period. While core retail sectors continue to dominate transactional activity, emerging trends are bringing new brands into the marketplace.

Health and beauty operators, particularly premium brands, were also highly acquisitive in the first half of 2023 with the volume of space transacted almost twice that of the corresponding period last year. Jo Malone, Aesop, Freshly Cosmetics, MAC and Space NK have been particularly active.

ANNE FONTAINE IN MADISON

Thirty years after starting her company, Anne Fontaine was understandably reflective before Thursday night’s launch party for her Madison Avenue store.

While guests mingled in the Gabriel Kowalski-designed space, the designer and her cofounder husband Ari Zlotkin detailed future plans and one life-changing experience that left an indelible imprint on Fontaine.

Some of last year’s gains were due to opening a Monaco store, relocating stores in Florence and Zurich and a revival in sales in the company’s Paris flagship, he added, adding that the number of high-end travelers from Russia, China and the Middle East have declined in Europe, due to ongoing military and political conflicts, including the Israel-Hamas war.

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BURBERRY A BAR IN NEW YORK

Burberry is taking its Streets   to New York, opening the Knight Bar, a temporary takeover of Temple Bar in NoHo, and recreating a small corner of London.

For seven days, from Friday to Nov. 16, the bar will be decorated in a new Burberry red check and serve a special menu curated by Norman’s, the North London café famous for its English muffins, scrambled eggs, sausages, battered fish and hash browns. Continue reading

JORG G BUCHERER DEAD AT 87

Jörg Gerold Bucherer, the chairman and third generation of the now Rolex-owned watch and jewelry retailer Bucherer, died on Monday at the age of 87.

A grandson of watchmaker Carl-Friedrich Bucherer, who opened a shop in Lucerne, Switzerland, in 1888, distributing his own designs before launching his own brand in 2001, followed by timepieces from others.

In the 1920s, Carl Eduard and Ernst joined the business, and Ernst struck a deal with Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf to distribute the brand.

The son of Carl Eduard Bucherer, Jörg Bucherer took over the Switzerland-based business in 1977, expanding it to Austria in the following years then Germany in the 90s. Continue reading

FASHION AWARDS 2023

Last night, the fashion industry’s power players and their celebrity guests mingled to celebrate the honorees and winners of the 2023 CFDA Fashion Awards. Among the VIP guests were Serena Williams, Kim Kardashian, Gwyneth Paltrow, Anne Hathaway, Demi Moore, and many others…

In addition to caviar and broccoli sticks, glasses of champagne were passed around; the museum’s animal exhibits stayed illuminated, giving the big night of American fashion a rather eccentric backdrop, since animals were present in the ballroom.

Fashion icon Serena Williams’ winner, more expensive in fabric than the Diplodosore, was designed by Thom Browne, the new CFDA president.

Paltrow was dressed in Goop’s G Label to receive her Innovation Award. “It’s very validating,” Paltrow said of being honored by the CFDA.

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BEAUTY KERING RICHEMONT AND OTHERS

Richemont is building a Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie and Kering is taking beauty in-house. Building a business in this industry isn’t easy, and there is no one-size-fits-all approach. There are four main reasons why beauty is a lure today: growth, resilience, desirability, and margins.

Fragrance and cosmetics are a big, fast-developing business, with the category generating sales last year of approximately $430 billion. Whereas the fashion business, with its discretionary categories, has become more difficult, beauty is part of a daily routine, and people will keep buying beauty.

In addition to its frequency of use, beauty has a high perceived value. Despite difficult economic times, people continue to buy it because they are pleased with the value. As with handbags, beauty’s margins are among the highest in luxury.

Kering seems to be tearing a page out of the LVMH playbook by creating multiple avenues into the brands, and potentially spreading their marketing budgets across all the fragrance brands. Funny NO? Who will Kering include in its basket of perfumes?

A.I IN FASHION

Artificial Intelligence does not stop its expansion, and in fashion, the word intelligence is certainly badly used: creation of images, writing of texts, generation of music… This is a simple reuse of existing or real artistic creations. The question divides the profession and raises questions about the future of creators who are now in dire straits.

The fields of intervention of AI in the image sector are expanding more and more every day. It is possible to create your logo, your visual identity, your photographs and videos like “Jacques muse-muse”, to manipulate the consumer. The promise is to generate the design with little effort, which helps many designers like Rous-tintin and many others who do not know how to draw or make a pattern or dress worthy of the name with their hands.

Generative AI works on the principle of “machine learning”; technology based on experience acquired through the digestion of content from web databases. Thus, many artists are worried about the use of works in AI databases, because, in fact, many images have been retrieved from the internet for AI training and used without permission. consent of their Rights Holders. The lack of legal framework for the exploitation of these bases is a subject at the heart of numerous debates. Continue reading

TAPESTRY PLAY AGAINST LVMH

Tapestry, Inc. is an American multinational luxury fashion holding company. It is based in New York City and is the parent company of three major brands.

Tapestry Inc. has agreed to purchase Capri Holdings. Capri, owner of Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo, is expected to be valued at $8.5 billion after the acquisition. The company’s shares are purchased for $57 each. The LVMH garden will be endangered by this new luxury group.

The six brands now owned by the two companies generate more than $12 billion in annual sales.

We are excited to own these brands and maximize their value. We think we’re a good landlord, and we have a lot to offer.”, says Roe.

ZARA WILL SAVE THE PLANET

Zara parent company Inditex has committed to purchasing €70 million worth of textile-to-textile recycled polyester material from Ambercycle. By launching items 50% made with the Zara Athleticz range, the brand’s technical sportswear range for men is saving the planet.

A fundraising of $21.6 million in January 2022, with other fast fashion players, including H&M, Jack; Jones and Vero Moda, parent company Bestseller, and Zalando, as well as investment funds. Inditex also owns, among others, the brands Berhska, Massimo Dutti and Pull&Bear.

This action will help the group achieve its nebulous objective of using 25% of its textile fibers from new generation materials by 2030. Zara dressed us in designer copies, now you will also be dressed with recycled materials with prices which would always be higher. Welcome to the world of Fast Fashion. But this is the result of the appearance of the giant Shein on the market.

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KERING SLOW DOWN

According to Kering’s third quarter sales figures, the group’s turnover fell by 13% at published exchange rates and by 9% on an underlying basis, to 4.46 billion euros.

Kering’s revenue is in line with analysts’ estimates, most of whom had already lowered their expectations for the quarter and their stock price targets.

Gucci, Kering’s largest brand, reported revenue of €2.22 billion, down 14% on a reported basis and 7% on an underlying basis. Bottega fell 13 percent and Yves Saint Laurent 16 percent.

François-Henri Pinault, said that beyond the difficult macroeconomic conditions and the slowdown in demand in the luxury industry, “our third quarter turnover reflects the impact of our decision to further raise our brands and our distribution”.

“Managing our homes in the current market environment and regaining our position and influence” with the organization put in place by Kering in July. Following the acquisition of Creed last week, one of the world’s most distinguished fine fragrance houses has joined our family, propelling our beauty ambitions.

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CEO MONTBLANC EXIT

Montblanc’s CEO since 2016 Nicolas Baretzki will leave the Hamburg luxury house. He has had a turbulent tenure at Montblanc, part of Swiss luxury group Compagnie Financière Richemont, parent company of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Chloé, and Dunhill.

In March 2021, he hired veteran leather goods designer Marco Tomasetta to accelerate Montblanc’s transformation into a “luxury house with a professional lifestyle.” Continue reading

ADIDAS A SMOKING GUN

In its ongoing battle with Thom Browne over the designer brand’s use of stripes, Adidas believes it has uncovered a smoking gun.

In court papers filed with the U.S. The District Court for the Southern District of New York found on Thursday that Thom Browne improperly withheld several e-mail chains which admitted that there was a likelihood of confusion between Adidas’s three-stripes and the company’s ‘four bar’ design.

Adidas alleges that four emails were exchanged between Browne and Rodrigo Bazan discussing the potential confusion in the market if four bars were used on sport-related products.

“Thom Browne’s concealment of these highly relevant and highly damaging e-mails denied Adidas a fair trial,” the brief stated. “Adidas is therefore entitled to relief under Federal Rule of Civil Procedure 60(b)(2), which provides for relief when a party uncovers evidence that likely would have changed the outcome of trial.”

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CALVIN KLEIN GRABS A ZARA GIRL

Calvin Klein has named Eva Vidal Dans as chief product officer she succeeds Jacob Jordan who had been global chief merchant and product strategist since October, 2020, and left in May.

Eva Vidal Dans is a seasoned merchandising and product executive whose creativity, inspiration leadership style and deep fashion expertise will help strengthen and grow Calvin Klein's product offering.

Dans was most recently with Inditex, where she led the product strategy for the Zara Group and its Sustainability Innovation Hub. Earlier, she oversaw the design, sourcing and product divisions, where she led a team of 100 and built successful product strategies for Zara’s more than 200 commercial markets.

RENNE IS NOT IN BRITTANY

The first name Davide comes from the Hebrew “daoud” which means “loved” or “cherished” a real program. As a result of Jeremy Scott’s recent departure, Moschino has appointed Davide Renne as its creative director. Aeffe, the Italian fashion group that controls brands such as Alberta Ferretti, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Pollini and Moschino, announced the news Monday morning.

In addition to leading Gucci’s women’s style office, Renne served as the brand’s head designer for womenswear for more than two decades. He will oversee Moschino’s womenswear, menswear, and accessories collections, reporting to Massimo Ferretti, executive president of Aeffe.

In a release, Renne described his approach as one of discovery and experimentation, we will see. The appointment of Davide Renne follows a series of new creative directors who have recently taken up their positions. Among them are Seán McGirr, who succeeds Sarah Burto at Alexander McQueen, and Chemena Kamali, who replaces Gabriela Hearst at Chloé.

L.A. FASHION START BY UKRAINIAN DESIGNER

Lever Couture, designed by Ukrainian-born, Los Angeles-based designer Lessja Verlingieri, kicked off Los Angeles’ busy fashion season Friday night.
Due to the violence in Israel and Gaza, Saturday’s Academy of Motion Pictures gala with a star-studded red carpet has been postponed. But other events will take place, such as Los Angeles Fashion Week, beginning Wednesday.

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