Introducing Tiffany Co.’s latest ambassador Camille Cottin at the Opéra Garnier. On Wednesday, the French jeweler revealed the actress’ new role, just weeks after she was photographed snatching a Tiffany Co. ring from the Paris landmark’s monumental tarp. Continue reading
FIVE MORE TIME FOR VUITTON
FASHION RETAIL
The Fashion brands accounted for more than 40 percent of retail floor space leased across Europe. Other brands fast opening doors across the region include the French down-jacket retailer JOTT (Just Over the Top) and the U.S. sportswear retailer Lids.
Fashion also accounted for the largest share of leases for bigger spaces larger than 11,000 square feet in the period. While core retail sectors continue to dominate transactional activity, emerging trends are bringing new brands into the marketplace.
Health and beauty operators, particularly premium brands, were also highly acquisitive in the first half of 2023 with the volume of space transacted almost twice that of the corresponding period last year. Jo Malone, Aesop, Freshly Cosmetics, MAC and Space NK have been particularly active.
ANNE FONTAINE IN MADISON
BURBERRY A BAR IN NEW YORK
Burberry is taking its Streets to New York, opening the Knight Bar, a temporary takeover of Temple Bar in NoHo, and recreating a small corner of London.
For seven days, from Friday to Nov. 16, the bar will be decorated in a new Burberry red check and serve a special menu curated by Norman’s, the North London café famous for its English muffins, scrambled eggs, sausages, battered fish and hash browns. Continue reading
JORG G BUCHERER DEAD AT 87
Jörg Gerold Bucherer, the chairman and third generation of the now Rolex-owned watch and jewelry retailer Bucherer, died on Monday at the age of 87.
A grandson of watchmaker Carl-Friedrich Bucherer, who opened a shop in Lucerne, Switzerland, in 1888, distributing his own designs before launching his own brand in 2001, followed by timepieces from others.
In the 1920s, Carl Eduard and Ernst joined the business, and Ernst struck a deal with Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf to distribute the brand.
The son of Carl Eduard Bucherer, Jörg Bucherer took over the Switzerland-based business in 1977, expanding it to Austria in the following years then Germany in the 90s. Continue reading
FASHION AWARDS 2023
Last night, the fashion industry’s power players and their celebrity guests mingled to celebrate the honorees and winners of the 2023 CFDA Fashion Awards. Among the VIP guests were Serena Williams, Kim Kardashian, Gwyneth Paltrow, Anne Hathaway, Demi Moore, and many others…
In addition to caviar and broccoli sticks, glasses of champagne were passed around; the museum’s animal exhibits stayed illuminated, giving the big night of American fashion a rather eccentric backdrop, since animals were present in the ballroom.
Fashion icon Serena Williams’ winner, more expensive in fabric than the Diplodosore, was designed by Thom Browne, the new CFDA president.
DURAN LANTIK 2024
BEAUTY KERING RICHEMONT AND OTHERS
Richemont is building a Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie and Kering is taking beauty in-house. Building a business in this industry isn’t easy, and there is no one-size-fits-all approach. There are four main reasons why beauty is a lure today: growth, resilience, desirability, and margins.
Fragrance and cosmetics are a big, fast-developing business, with the category generating sales last year of approximately $430 billion. Whereas the fashion business, with its discretionary categories, has become more difficult, beauty is part of a daily routine, and people will keep buying beauty.
In addition to its frequency of use, beauty has a high perceived value. Despite difficult economic times, people continue to buy it because they are pleased with the value. As with handbags, beauty’s margins are among the highest in luxury.
Kering seems to be tearing a page out of the LVMH playbook by creating multiple avenues into the brands, and potentially spreading their marketing budgets across all the fragrance brands. Funny NO? Who will Kering include in its basket of perfumes?
A.I IN FASHION
Artificial Intelligence does not stop its expansion, and in fashion, the word intelligence is certainly badly used: creation of images, writing of texts, generation of music… This is a simple reuse of existing or real artistic creations. The question divides the profession and raises questions about the future of creators who are now in dire straits.
The fields of intervention of AI in the image sector are expanding more and more every day. It is possible to create your logo, your visual identity, your photographs and videos like “Jacques muse-muse”, to manipulate the consumer. The promise is to generate the design with little effort, which helps many designers like Rous-tintin and many others who do not know how to draw or make a pattern or dress worthy of the name with their hands.
Generative AI works on the principle of “machine learning”; technology based on experience acquired through the digestion of content from web databases. Thus, many artists are worried about the use of works in AI databases, because, in fact, many images have been retrieved from the internet for AI training and used without permission. consent of their Rights Holders. The lack of legal framework for the exploitation of these bases is a subject at the heart of numerous debates. Continue reading
TAPESTRY PLAY AGAINST LVMH
Tapestry, Inc. is an American multinational luxury fashion holding company. It is based in New York City and is the parent company of three major brands.
Tapestry Inc. has agreed to purchase Capri Holdings. Capri, owner of Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo, is expected to be valued at $8.5 billion after the acquisition. The company’s shares are purchased for $57 each. The LVMH garden will be endangered by this new luxury group.
The six brands now owned by the two companies generate more than $12 billion in annual sales.
We are excited to own these brands and maximize their value. We think we’re a good landlord, and we have a lot to offer.”, says Roe.
ZARA WILL SAVE THE PLANET
Zara parent company Inditex has committed to purchasing €70 million worth of textile-to-textile recycled polyester material from Ambercycle. By launching items 50% made with the Zara Athleticz range, the brand’s technical sportswear range for men is saving the planet.
A fundraising of $21.6 million in January 2022, with other fast fashion players, including H&M, Jack; Jones and Vero Moda, parent company Bestseller, and Zalando, as well as investment funds. Inditex also owns, among others, the brands Berhska, Massimo Dutti and Pull&Bear.
KERING SLOW DOWN
According to Kering’s third quarter sales figures, the group’s turnover fell by 13% at published exchange rates and by 9% on an underlying basis, to 4.46 billion euros.
Kering’s revenue is in line with analysts’ estimates, most of whom had already lowered their expectations for the quarter and their stock price targets.
Gucci, Kering’s largest brand, reported revenue of €2.22 billion, down 14% on a reported basis and 7% on an underlying basis. Bottega fell 13 percent and Yves Saint Laurent 16 percent.
François-Henri Pinault, said that beyond the difficult macroeconomic conditions and the slowdown in demand in the luxury industry, “our third quarter turnover reflects the impact of our decision to further raise our brands and our distribution”.
“Managing our homes in the current market environment and regaining our position and influence” with the organization put in place by Kering in July. Following the acquisition of Creed last week, one of the world’s most distinguished fine fragrance houses has joined our family, propelling our beauty ambitions.
CEO MONTBLANC EXIT
Montblanc’s CEO since 2016 Nicolas Baretzki will leave the Hamburg luxury house. He has had a turbulent tenure at Montblanc, part of Swiss luxury group Compagnie Financière Richemont, parent company of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Chloé, and Dunhill.
In March 2021, he hired veteran leather goods designer Marco Tomasetta to accelerate Montblanc’s transformation into a “luxury house with a professional lifestyle.” Continue reading
JENNIFER TIT
A capsule collection has been launched by Jennifer Lopez with Italian lingerie brand Intimissimi. Entitled “This Is Me Now”. You have to eat well! A new line inspired by the pop star’s upcoming ninth album is now available. Continue reading
ADIDAS A SMOKING GUN
In its ongoing battle with Thom Browne over the designer brand’s use of stripes, Adidas believes it has uncovered a smoking gun.
In court papers filed with the U.S. The District Court for the Southern District of New York found on Thursday that Thom Browne improperly withheld several e-mail chains which admitted that there was a likelihood of confusion between Adidas’s three-stripes and the company’s ‘four bar’ design.
Adidas alleges that four emails were exchanged between Browne and Rodrigo Bazan discussing the potential confusion in the market if four bars were used on sport-related products.
“Thom Browne’s concealment of these highly relevant and highly damaging e-mails denied Adidas a fair trial,” the brief stated. “Adidas is therefore entitled to relief under Federal Rule of Civil Procedure 60(b)(2), which provides for relief when a party uncovers evidence that likely would have changed the outcome of trial.”
CALVIN KLEIN GRABS A ZARA GIRL
Calvin Klein has named Eva Vidal Dans as chief product officer she succeeds Jacob Jordan who had been global chief merchant and product strategist since October, 2020, and left in May.
Eva Vidal Dans is a seasoned merchandising and product executive whose creativity, inspiration leadership style and deep fashion expertise will help strengthen and grow Calvin Klein's product offering.
RENNE IS NOT IN BRITTANY
The first name Davide comes from the Hebrew “daoud” which means “loved” or “cherished” a real program. As a result of Jeremy Scott’s recent departure, Moschino has appointed Davide Renne as its creative director. Aeffe, the Italian fashion group that controls brands such as Alberta Ferretti, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Pollini and Moschino, announced the news Monday morning.
In addition to leading Gucci’s women’s style office, Renne served as the brand’s head designer for womenswear for more than two decades. He will oversee Moschino’s womenswear, menswear, and accessories collections, reporting to Massimo Ferretti, executive president of Aeffe.
L.A. FASHION START BY UKRAINIAN DESIGNER
ETAM IS PALACE
Like every year, the Etam Live Show 2023 marks the start of Paris Fashion Week. For this 16th edition, the French brand pays homage to one of the capital’s greatest nightlife temples: the Palace and its supercharged atmosphere. Continue reading