ALESSANDRO MICHELE QUIT GUCCI

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Is Gucci about to undergo a major transformation? Alessandro Michele is leaving the brand as creative director. According to a source who spoke anonymously, Michele “was asked to initiate a strong design shift” to revitalize the brand, but she didn’t.

In the past, Pinault has shaken up one of Kering’s key brands. In a surprise move last November, Pinault fired Daniel Lee from Bottega Veneta, despite his strong performance and critical acclaim.

Matthieu Blazy, who worked in Bottega’s studio before becoming creative director at Burberry, succeeded Lee at the brand. The artisanal roots of the brand have been returned by Blazy in just two seasons.

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RAF SIMONS FINALLY QUITS FASHION

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The Spring Summer 2023 collection is a conclusion of an extraordinary of 27 years journey and the final season of the Raf Simons’ Fashion brand. That was on the Raf Simons’s Instagram today.

Raf Simons has finally discovered that he has no talent to be a fashion designer. He said to his team: “Thank you all for believing in our vision and in me.” And if he had to tell the press something, he would surely say:

“Thank you for never having supported me” and I would have answered him: “If you had been a true designer we would probably have supported you.” Nevertheless, we wish you all the best for your retirement and you should know that we will not regret you. Same for your successor in dior Maria Grazzia.

This is the difference between a real designer and a fake one, the real one stays in his passion until his death. A Belgian story perhaps?

CHIVAS FOR A SHIVA

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Alcohol is brown but reddens the face, while yellow gold always blackens the heart.  A whiskey to start seeing double like Gucci or see blurred to appreciate the “Wonder Toy” fashion in David yellowstone. After Evian by Balmain, the house really needs cash flow, it must sell something! So Evian water for Qatar is still better than whiskey forbidden to Muslims. A “Shiva” or nothing had confused the designer, confusing Chivas and Shiva, the god of the destruction of illusion and ignorance: it suits him so well.

Rousteing is like this sultan, who betrayed by his companion, is persuaded of the infidelity of all men. So he swears to conquer one of them every night and to have his head cut off the next day. For three years, this barbarism consumes the city, and to stop the course of this gay genocide, Whisky’s “Shérazade” proposes marriage to him, much to his father’s dismay.

But the son of the Vizir has more than one tale in his bag, and night after night, he maintains the interest of the king of kings of Quatar, he tells him that he was a dressmaker in another world, thus transforming Pierre Balmain into Pierre I’m no coward. What finally “turlute pine” him now is to be put in a coffin without alcove … Especially in case of sudden death! No ?

FASHION UNDER COVER

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Between the official sponsors of the soccer world cup and the vertigo of endless wealth,  they are torn between their will to shine without alienating dictatorships, with the risk of scratching their image by associating themselves with a world cup truly tainted with accusations that hint at the trampling of Human Rights. But, in the world of fashion, we are used to these counterfeit humans, and they perform daily a balancing act so perfect.

RICHEMOND AND THE LORD

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The answer is hard to determine, say principals at Compagnie Financière Richemont. Consumer behavior is still impacted by COVID-19, China remains volatile, and U.S. growth is slowing.  Are storm clouds gathering over luxury?

The demand for high-end watches, jewelry, and accessories remains robust, resulting in solid results for the first half of the fiscal year. Richemont’s sales increased 24 percent to 9.68 billion euros at actual exchange rates, and its profit from continuing operations increased 40 percent to 2.11 billion euros.

On Friday, Richemont’s shares surged more than 10 percent to close at 118.10 Swiss francs.One thing is certain: COVID-19 continues to change consumption patterns worldwide, for better and for worse. Richemont managers discussed volatility and a lack of visibility in the market.

In fact, Richemont says consumption patterns have changed so dramatically since COVID-19 that no single geography is driving revenue or dominating the balance sheet. Continue reading →

DIOR AND SANTA CLOSE

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Harrods is transforming into a gingerbread world as Dior takes over its flagship store with a larger-than-life holiday takeover. In the absence of Santa’s Grotto at Harrods this year, who needs the North Pole contingent anyway?

There has never been a collaboration between Dior and a department store of this scale before, and this is Harrods’ largest brand takeover. A warm cookie brown, caramel, cinnamon and powdered sugar white replace the season’s usual red and green hues inside and outside Dior’s stores.

Christian Dior’s life and the evolution of the couture house are traced through an immersive experience. There is a 17-meter-high mega-star above the Brompton Road entrance, which is part of a lavish 3D display inspired by sketches by Roman artist Pietro Ruffo for the Dior cruise 2023 collection.

UOTANI TIME TO GO

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Shiseido’s president and CEO Masahiko Uotani announced succession plans on Thursday that will see him step down within two years. As of Jan. 1, Uotami’s role will change to representative director, chairman and CEO, while Kentaro Fujiwara will assume the position of president and chief operating officer.

“Fujiwara and I will work closely together for two years managing the company jointly, and then we will see what happens after that. I don’t want to just pass the baton on suddenly,” Uotani said. 

Shiseido’s business grew 19 percent on a like-for-like basis in 2021, despite continued lockdowns in China. The growth of the business in China has been a cornerstone of Uotani’s globalization strategy. Continue reading →

FERRAGAMO OR FERRAGAME ON

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Marco Gobbetti has full confidence in Maximilian Davis’ design skills as he leads the Ferragamo turnaround. During the first nine months of the year, it has reached a 17.2% increase in revenues, the chief executive officer and general manager touted the success of Davis’ first collection, shown in Milan last September for spring 2023.

His style is now out in the open, he is an elegant designer, his clothes are elegant, and they have a high component of sexiness, said Gobbetti of Davis, who was appointed creative director of Ferragamo in March.

Gobbetti trumpeted continued growth in revenues in the third quarter, “ensuring especially the quality of sales throughout all our distribution channels” at full price. “We delivered progress in our operating profit and cash flow for the first nine months, while implementing the planned increase of marketing and communication expenses.

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MUGLER IN SELFRIDGES

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With Body Spaces, French luxury brand Mugler will take over Selfridges Corner Shop until December. The brand’s fall 2022 and spring 2023 collections, along with festive gifts, will be featured in the space, along with its signature scents Angel, Alien and Alien Goddess.

In partnership with Random Studio, The Corner Shop features reflective silver surface sculptures depicting the contours of the human body. The brand has never set up an immersive pop-up before. It’s a unique approach that is accompanied by a strong architectural gesture.

Chrome hues will be available in a limited number of fragrances. Mugler is offering 30 hand-blown, hand-sculpted bottle variations of Angel, one of Mugler’s bestselling fragrances.

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FRANCOIS BAUFUMÉ PASSED AWAY

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French fashion executive François Baufumé the Kenzo and Christian Dior Couture businesses in the 80 and & 90 died suddenly on Friday in Saint-Jean-de-Luz at age 77.

Services are scheduled for Wednesday in Urrugne, France, according to a family announcement signed by his two daughters. He was a visionary, who recently stepped down as president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

A great and bold entrepreneur, an outstanding executive and a charismatic leader, and despite his famous temper tantrums, he was a very warm and endearing character who knew how to enjoy life.

He built Kenzo into a fashion and perfume company with combined sales of roughly $150 million by 1992, extending the brand into menswear, jeans and childrenswear, and opening many key boutiques.

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TOM CATCH ME IF YOU CAN KERING

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A deal to buy U.S. fashion brand Tom Ford from the American designer is said to be in advanced stages between Kering, the French luxury giant that owns Gucci. Estée Lauder, who is also rumored to be in the running to secure Tom Ford, is in a close race with Kering for Tom Ford.

 A deal could be reached as soon as next week, according to sources. As of now, François-Henri Pinault’s luxury giant has yet to confirm any deal.

It will be the largest acquisition ever made 3 billion  of dollard,  it is possible that the price has fallen, given today’s precarious market environment and current geopolitical crisis, which has led to almost unprecedented inflationary pressures and dramatically increased procurement costs around the world.

However, Kering has been able to ride a sort of post-pandemic surge in sales, particularly across its Gucci, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga brands, as wealthy customers wanted revenge and a return to normality; those who have shown themselves to be more resilient, despite the exponential rise in inflation, and continue to purchase expensive clothes, bags, and watches.
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CELINE SPRING IN DECEMBER

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Hedi Slimane may have been a little late unveiling Celine’s spring 2023 collection, but he will be way early with the collection he’s designing for fall 2024.

A fashion show will be held in Los Angeles, California, on Dec. 8 to unveil the fall 2023 collection over two months before New York, London, Milan, and Paris fashion weeks.

In the meantime, Celine’s spring 2023 collection will be showcased as a film to be streamed on its website and social media platforms sometime during November.

Filming for Celine’s spring 2023 collection took place in the south of France, but the exact timing and other details are not yet known. The exact location of Celine’s runway event in Los Angeles was not disclosed either.

Ralph Lauren, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent are among the brands that have mounted runway displays in California recently. Is Paris burning?

CHINA AND FRENCH BRANDS

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For emerging designers and established brands alike, navigating China’s copyright protection system might seem like a daunting task. In China, your rights are protected as long as your trademark is registered. But in the U.S., Last month the French luxury label Louboutin successfully defended its red-sole stilettos from copycats without a trademark registration.

Article 6 of the Anti-Unfair Competition Law of China was readily applied because it addresses the scenario where the brand owner has not yet acquired a prior registered trademark in China.

Louboutin proved that its red sole shoes as a commodity and its sole red decoration have a high fame and influence in the market, and therefore protected its rights according to the Unfair Competition Law.

The rampage of bad-faith trademark squatters in the market, who are quick to snatch up any popular corporate names, signs and designs, then gain a profit from trademark buybacks, is another common issue that brands and creators face in the China market. Continue reading →

BURBERRY LONDON 2023

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Adventure begins in the face of unknown horizons. Burberry’s history has always been marked by the pursuit of opportunities in uncharted worlds. The company’s founder, Thomas Burberry, enabled the most daring adventurers of his time to go beyond the beaten path. From the explorers of the past to the pioneers of today, Burberry coats and jackets are for those who aspire to step boldly into uncharted territory.

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ART AND HAUTE COUTURE

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The world’s largest art gallery, Gagosian, denies talks with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. LVMH was rumored to be in discussions to invest in Gagosian, a Los Angeles mega-gallery founded by Larry Gagosian in 1980. However, a Gagosian representative vigorously denied the existence of any deal on Tuesday. The company declined to comment.

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YE DON’T LIVE MATTER FOR ADDIDAS

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“After a thorough review, the company has taken the decision to terminate the partnership with Ye immediately, end production of Yeezy branded products and stop all payments to Ye and his companies. Adidas will stop the Adidas Yeezy business with immediate effect,” it added.

The German sporting goods firm, which had come under growing pressure to renounce its seven-year partnership with the rapper formerly known as Kanye West.

It expects a short-term hit of up to 250 million euros to its net income as a result. Adidas does not tolerate antisemitism and any other sort of hate speech. Ye’s recent comments and actions have been unacceptable, hateful and dangerous, and they violate the company’s values of diversity and inclusion, mutual respect and fairness,” Adidas said in a statement.

A VAMPIRE AT DIOR’S

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Dior’s spring pre-collection will be presented by Robert Pattinson. It was photographed by Rafael Pavarotti, with art direction by Ronnie Cooke Newhouse and styling by Melanie Ward and Ellie Grace Cumming.

Since 2013, Pattinson has been the face of Dior Homme. “Twilight” actor also appeared in Karl Lagerfeld’s spring 2017 and fall 2016 menswear campaigns for the French fashion house.

The actor read lines from Jack Kerouac’s work on the soundtrack of Dior’s pre-fall men’s fashion show in London last December, in addition to attending dozens of fashion shows over the years.

The British actor recently starred in “The Batman”. Among his next projects is a science fiction film based on the novel by Edward Ashton “Mickey7”, directed by the Oscar-winning South Korean director Bong Joon Ho . Science fiction for Dior ! It make sens.

RIMOWA’S NEVER STILL

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A series of celebrities, including Rihanna, Patti Smith, and other VIPs, are chosen as ambassadors for Rimowa’s “Never Still” campaign

In a short film format, the “Never Still” campaign of RIMOWA gives life to a new era of travel by taking into account the extremely personal perspectives of four global legends. In collaboration with four exceptional brand ambassadors, Rimowa encourages us to travel with a new spirit and new awareness: Rihanna, Patti Smith, LeBron James, and Roger Federer. Continue reading →

KERING STELLAR GROWTH

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Kering said sales increased by 14% in its third quarter, driven by strong results in Europe, although Gucci revenues lagged behind overall growth.

With the dollar strong in Europe and the Chinese market recovering from COVID-19 restrictions, luxury giants are disregarding concerns that the industry’s post-pandemic boom may cool.

With overall sales of 5.137 billion euros in the three months to September, Kering also benefited largely from that trend. Analysts had predicted a 12% increase on a comparable basis, which strips out currency fluctuations. However, Gucci’s sales grew by 9%, below a consensus forecast of 11%.

The label’s performance in China was “mixed” and “has yet to normalize,” said Kering’s finance chief Jean-Marc Duplaix. Following years of stellar growth, Gucci has underperformed rivals Louis Vuitton and Hermes in terms of its sales, which accounts for the bulk of profits at Kering. Too bad the turnover is not like Gucci’s collection this season, a double vision.