BAILEY FINAL REVERENCE

Goodbye Burberry – On Saturday night guests entered the west London venue to the chants and screeches of fur protesters  who came out in even larger numbers than last season  and entered a vast and largely vacant brick venue where the designer’s guests and friends were gathering to watch his last show for the brand.

The collection was meant to be a support to the LGBT community.

“I’m proud and sad ” said Sienna Miller, who starred in Burberry’s 2016 Christmas campaign, a short film that also featured Dominic West. “All the Burberry girls had to be here tonight.” They came out in force: Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Keira Knightley and Naomi Watts joined Michelle Dockery, Naomie Harris, Lily James and Daphne Guinness.

Chelsea Clinton, who is best friends with Bailey’s husband Simon Woods, sat in the friends and family section. “It was Simon who brought Christopher into our lives and we’re so thankful for that. There was nowhere else we wanted to be tonight” said Clinton, who was accompanied her husband Marc Mezvinsky.

FOSUM AND LANVIN JUST MARRIED

Chinese conglomerate Fosun International has beat Qatari’s rival Mayhoola Group to win control over the French fashion house Lanvin. The sale agreement leaves Taiwanese media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang, who previously held 75% stake, on board as a minority shareholder with 20%. Swiss businessman Ralph Bartel is apparently holding 25% share in  the house’s capital.

Lanvin which was facing a liquidity crises was under pressure to find an investor by the end of the month. Fosun has pledged to bring 100 million euros to the table, although they cautioned that this would only provide temporary relief, given Lanvin’s deepening losses.

The oldest French fashion house, still in activity, has seen its sales erode since a peak of 235 million euros in 2012. In 2016 revenues fell 23 percent to 162 million euros, with a net loss of 18.3 million euros, marking its first red ink in nearly a decade. Continue reading

KARL 30 YEARS AT CHANEL’S

“Karl Lagerfeld is almost as synonymous with Chanel as Coco Chanel herself today, but there was a time when the actual legendary designer was nervously working on his first Chanel collection, Couture for fall 1983. This being the notoriously work-centric Lagerfeld, he was toiling simultaneously for Chloé and Fendi and  a “myriad of other clients.”

Not much has changed on that front as the infamously productive designer still heads up multiple houses, including Fendi and his namesake line, but when he first joined Chanel, only part time initially, he wasn’t welcomed with particularly open arms.

Lagerfeld made it through any tensions and overcame his frustrations with the slow production pace of couture and yanked Chanel into the Eighties with his first designs pulling inspiration from the Twenties and Thirties, while decidedly ignoring Chanel’s “comeback” era of the Fifties. But this was a risk, as was Lagerfeld’s decision to move away from the pastels and boxy suits the house had become more-or-less known for. Continue reading

FRANCK SORBIER PARIS 2018

When the show started, I immediately thought : “Live as a man, but remain a woman”. Right in the trend, the poet of fashion, Franck Sorbier is listening to our time, and it is precisely what the Haute Couture should be.

In 1920, women discovered not only the power of seduction but also their own body. As Isadora Duncan, famous dancer in the 1920’s, developed a style of free and natural movements or as the “Garçonnes” that Madame Chanel dressed to slum it, the designer has re-established the balance in delivering an undisputed collection inspired by “Les Années Folles”. Franck Sorbier always listens and catches the magic breath of this world.

On a music played by Manu Dibango, the dancers of the Paris Opera, wearing dressed inspired by the “Années Folles” flited from one room to the other one to present the collection. The Sorbier Haute Couture show is always one of the most expected moment of the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. You feel like a cocoon far away from Fashion industry and closed to the soul of fashion. Continue reading

ON AURA TOUT VU BEST SHOW 2018

This is at this time with dior the best show Paris Fashion Week 2018. Breaks introduced by the Haute Couture over the years to give their own interpretation codes. Diverting fashion and glamor. The designers Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov stand out for several years for their extravagant and original creations, far from conventional classic haute couture fashion.

The stars are crazy for their creations. The success of designers is immediate and unparalleled. Always on hand with their own unique and singular way of creativity.

Today, brand, presents each season during the Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week but is also invested in other areas such as ready-to-wear, accessories, design objects, decor, makeup, perfumes as well as costumes and scenography for ballet performances and music. At this time the best show in paris 2018. Continue reading

CELINE AND EASY SLIMANE

One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Hedi Slimane is to lead Céline into men’s wear, couture and fragrance as its new artistic, he is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week.

It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the Kering-owned house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, betweenr
2012 and 2016 all the while maintaining a close rapport with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior

In a curious twist of fate, Slimane will be reunited with Sidney Toledano, the legendary chief executive officer of Dior, who recruited the designer to propel the storied couture house into men’s fashion. Continue reading

MARGIELA PARIS 2018

The designer John Galliano added his dose of cinematic fantasy plastic overlayers and matching aviators figured among the styling tricks to the Maison Margiela men’s wardrobe. Introducing Artisanal pieces to the line, he put his own stamp on the relaxed suit, reinterpreted in a bias cut.

Skeletal structure in fur on an oversized yellow bomber, giving a harness effect. Shadows crept across a flocked navy bomber, while an orange rubber cardigan in an Aran knit motif that quivered down the runway was pure showpiece.

The collection also had its fair share of commercial pieces, like the sharply cut plain beige suit worn with patent leather cowboy boots, which was supercool, and a slim red nylon sports jacket tucked into pants like a shirt. Continue reading

MARIO AND WINTOUR DIVORCE

Face to allegations of sexual exploitation and harassment, Fashion brands and magazine titles quickly decided to stop working with famed photographers Mario Testino and Bruce Weber.

During the men’s fashion show in Milan, speculation raged over other well-known photographers who might be caught up in the scandal. Sexual exploitation and harassment has long been known to take place during fashion shoots for the last several decades, but unfortunately both brands and magazine editors have generally turned a blind eye to it.

Both Testino and Weber made their careers and fortunes on shooting ad campaigns. Last Saturday, both Michael Kors and Stuart Weitzman said they would no longer be working with Testino on future advertising campaigns. Continue reading