BLACK FAKE FOR GUCCI CEO

The Gucci ceo was in New York Wednesday evening for the Marvin Traub Lecture. What was meant to be an interview spanning his career and his tenure at Gucci became heavily dominated by talk of the fashion house’s recent faux pas a balaclava-style sweater that critics said evoked blackface.

“Gucci is often in the news for their extraordinary commercial success, but also for their commitments to communities around the world.
Explanation of what went wrong, telling the audience that the sweater was debuted at a February 2018 show, but “nothing happened” until it was recently linked to blackface on Twitter, which sparked the social media storm.

He admitted that when his team first told him about this, he didn’t know what they were talking about, which he puts down to ignorance on his behalf. Continue reading

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

The appeal of the Copenhagen fashion girl, often found riding a colorful bicycle and sporting pearl-encrusted hair clips, is here to stay.

Apart from charming the world with their flair for candy colors, cozy decorating and quirky accessories, the Danes mean business: Pioneers in the contemporary category, they are experts at offering trendy, fuss-free pieces at what they refer to as; honest price points. Now, they are ready to shift up a gear.

Sustainability in Denmark is less marketing ploy and more a way of life, so when Copenhagen Fashion Week’s newly appointed chief executive officer Cecilie Thorsmark laid out her ambitious plan of turning the three-day showcase into the most sustainable international fashion week, she found that local and international brands were quick to align with her mission.

British label Mother of Pearl opened Copenhagen Fashion Week, which ran from Jan. 29 to Feb. 1, with an intimate presentation of its seasonless, sustainably made range. Creative director Amy Powney said the growth of the brand in the Scandinavian market and customers; engagement with its sustainability mission encouraged her to get more involved. By showcasing a seasonless range, the idea was to make a statement that collections don’t need to be new to be exciting. Continue reading

GUO PEI DRAGON-NISSIMO

Guo Pei took to the temple, allowing her imagination to roam a spiritual safe haven of palatial proportions. With elaborate craftsmanship as the driving force, the designer offered a wide-ranging futuristic and Gothic-infused lineup, part warrior princess, part illustrious queen.

An unusual experiment with waders came at the start of the show, covered in golden-hued dragons and hanging open at the thigh to reveal a pair of bright blue HotPants. On top, more skin, with tasseled shoulder armor leaving an exposed bellybutton.

The complexity of her pieces can be overwhelming, even if they’re sent down the runway at a snail’s pace affording time for a good look. Models were perched on towering platform shoes  architectural pieces, too, like the garments.

Her dragons were everywhere, hailing from the Han dynasty, which had them slim and masterful at transforming themselves as was the clothing.

In an example of her East-meets-West aesthetic, Guo embellished a colorful tweed with large, randomly placed rhinestones, and used it to build one of the wider pieces, overlaying a body-fitting bustier.

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JACQUEMUS PARIS 2019

After launching men’s wear on a beach in the South of France last June, Simon Porte Jacquemus, is back to Paris. His new headquarters is four times bigger and he is entering a transitional phase as the brand grows. 69 Quai de Valmy, 75010 Paris

Simon Porte Jacquemus grew up in the countryside in Provence. He comes from a family of farmers and when he was a kid, he was fascinated by his dungarees which looked like a uniform. Continue reading

VUITTON SMOKES MARIJUANA IN PARIS

It is bingo for Bernard Arnault. He has bet on a new afro-american designer, Virgil Abloh. Yesterday he attended with his two sons at the front row. During the show there was a smell of marijuana. He was a choc between two worlds, as if a family of Boston was meeting an afro-american of Harlem. The mix gave a stunning collection. Continue reading

MY NAME IS BOND STREET

Cartier is stepping into its retail future, as it reopens the doors to its revamped London flagship on New Bond Street.

The boutique which is the result of an ambitious nine-month renovation project and even more years of planning offers an elegant and luxurious space that resembles a home and an exhibition space, as much as it does a shop floor.

"If you compare the historical boutique with the one we are opening, the base might be the same, but one has nothing to do with the other," said Laurent Feniou, Cartier’s U.K. managing director, during an interview. He added that the company has moved its London offices from Bond Street to Regent Street as part of the revamp process in order to dedicate the whole building to retail and reimagine what its London flagship can look like.

In line with Cartier’s overall ethos of marrying tradition and modernity, the new space emphasizes some of the listed building’s original features, including wooden panels and a grand wooden staircase that was previously hidden away. Continue reading

A TRAIN NAMED DESIRE

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said on Friday it had agreed to buy luxury travel operator Belmond Ltd., owner of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express train and hotels including the Copacabana Palace in Rio de Janeiro, for $2.6 billion, significantly widening its footprint in the hospitality sector.

Established over 40 years ago with the acquisition of Hotel Cipriani in Venice, Belmond operates in 24 countries with a portfolio of 46 luxury hotel, restaurant, train and river cruise properties. It posted revenues of $572 million and adjusted EBITDA of $140 million in the 12 months ended Sept. 30.

“Belmond delivers unique experiences to discerning travelers and owns a number of exceptional assets in the most desirable destinations,” said Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH. Continue reading

CHAUMET AND JOSEPHINE

Joséphine arrived in Paris in 1779 from her native Martinique, soon to steal the heart of Napoleon Bonaparte, before being crowned empress of France. A woman of style and passion, Joséphine infused Parisian society with a sense of originality and audacity, which find fresh expression in the city today.

joséphine’s chateau, Malmaison, was where she indulged her passion for flowers and plants, becoming widely respected among the botanists of her day. Her love of nature helped spread the 19th-century fashion for gardens and greenhouses like the Bagatelle rose garden, the Auteuil Greenhouses and the Jardin des Plantes. Today, this lush, exuberant spirit lives on in Paris’s elegant rooftop and vertical gardens, while Malmaison welcomes thousands of visitors every year. Joséphine’s jeweler, Chaumet, celebrates this love of flowers in its Jardins collection. Continue reading

PHARAOH PHARRELL WILLIAMS

This is not Elizabeth Taylor, anyway,” Karl Lagerfeld declared. Encamped in a suite at the Mercer Hotel  which the Chanel entourage took over in full in preparation for the house’s Métiers d’Art show on Tuesday night Lagerfeld quickly dispelled any preconception of a luxe cheese fest of overdone makeup and tricked-out headdresses inspired by La Liz’s (albeit delightful) turn as Cleopatra.

There’s a timelessness to it, he said of the allure of ancient Egyptian imagery, noting that the idea for the collection crystallized before the location was secured. “I always was interested in the old Egypt, from 3,000 years before Jesus Christ. And then I said it would be great to show it in the Met, but I never thought it was possible

But then, if “impossible” exists within the world of Chanel, we’ve yet to see it. Here, the house booked the Met for the show (which necessitated closing public access to the Temple of Dendur for many days prior) and a nearby expanse of Central Park for the party.

Julianne Moore, Margot Robbie, Penélope Cruz, Lily-Rose Depp and Sofia Coppola. One celebrity wasn’t seated: Pharrell Williams walked the show, a vision all in gold, long sweater atop leather pants. Continue reading

EXCLUSIVE HOTEL BOUCHERON

Boucheron is set to open its newly restored Place Vendôme flagship Wednesday.

With its sweeping views of the famed Paris square and its spiraling column, the mansion, which covers nearly 20,000 square feet of space, now has a winter garden and an intimate perch to observe it from in addition to a succession of distinct, refurbished salons. Moving past the traditional realm of a high-end boutique, the upper floors house the label’s design studio and workshops, as well as an entire floor that can serve as an apartment to host its most elite clients overnight stays included.

For the Boucheron project, which coincided with the house’s 160th anniversary this year, the building’s historical stature took precedence, recounted Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, chief executive officer of the jeweler.

Least complicated, by Poulit-Duquesne’s account, was defining the mission of the Kering-owned jeweler with François-Henri Pinault, chairman and ceo of the luxury group. Continue reading