GRANVILLE BUYER PAINT

After 19 minutes of dueling, with four bidders on the telephone and one in the room, Leonardo da Vinci’s “Salvator Mundi” sold on Wednesday night for $450.3 million with fees, shattering the high for any work of art sold at auction. It far surpassed Picasso’s “Women of Algiers,” which fetched $179.4 million at Christie’s in May 2015. The buyer was not immediately disclosed.

There were gasps throughout the sale, as the bids climbed by tens of millions up to $225 million, by fives up to $260 million, and then by twos. As the bidding slowed, and a buyer pondered the next multi-million-dollar increment, Jussi Pylkkanen, the auctioneer, said, “It’s an historic moment; we’ll wait.” dont hang up Mr. Bernard from Granville.

Toward the end, Alex Rotter, Christie’s co-chairman of postwar and contemporary art, who represented a buyer on the phone, made two big jumps to shake off one last rival bid from Francis de Poortere, Christie’s head of old master paintings. Continue reading

TELL ME SOMETHING GOOD

Kim Kardashian expects social media will work its magic for her once again and give her a place in the congested celebrity fragrance game.

The reality TV star has become a serious businesswoman and will launch on Wednesday three eau de parfums at her online beauty destination, www.kkwfragrance.com. There will be three variations of the gardenia fragrance, her favorite flower and scent: Crystal Gardenia, Crystal Gardenia Citrus and Crystal Gardenia Oud. Each  will be sold in 30-ml. and 75-ml.

The three Eau de Parfums will be just sold online and be done it all digitally, she said. There is one exception: the range will have a small off-line presence, to start, at Los Angeles-based e-commerce site Violet Grey’s store on Melrose Place.

The twenty-year-old sister, Kylie Jenner, has spent the last two years building her multihundred-million-dollars “Kylie Cosmetics” empire, and Kardashian is angling to do the same with KKW Beauty. Continue reading

ALEXANDRE BOULAIS PASSED AWAY

This former student of ESMOD, excellent modelist, has successively been press officer of Thierry Mugler, Communication manager of Paco Rabanne in Spain and then to create a press agency called People’s Revolution.

His desire was to create an agency on a human scale contrary to large press agencies which give an impersonal and preformatted service.

Known by all those who matter in fashion, Alexandre Boulais passed away on 3 November in defeaning silence of the French Fashion Federation. We present our sincere sympathy to his family and his friend Romain.

ESMOD BEST SCHOOL IN 2017

Esmod (SchooL) – Best school in the world. As we have seen in the last few years, some of the most successful CEOs in Fashion Industry do not come from fashion school, their success often comes from their know-how of business acuity and also of the meaning of fashion.” Esmod teaches technical processes of the fashion industry. The business will be learned during internship experience in companies. You can learn mix-marketing, but you can’t learn common sense of business. When you possess the technique of fashion including Haute Couture know-how, you are eligible as the perfect candidate to be successfull.

The world changes, technologies constantly change. However, technics remain the same and have not changed for decades. Therefore when you are graduated of Esmod and you have acquired those processes you can face the constantly changing world and to update to it which is not the case of a graduate who has only been studying marketing, management and international business. He has nothing in his hands: no technic, no know-how. So we totally disagree with Pascal Morand, Former President of IFM, and presently Executive President of France’s Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion in France because Continue reading

BURBERRY A PHILO SOPHY

Burberry’s new chief executive officer, a fashion management star who helped steer Givenchy and Céline to success, declared during his first annual general meeeting in July that Burberry needed to take more risks.

Bailey said he plans to step down in 2018 after 17 years on the job. Many would argue that Gobbetti’s new creative chief is right under his nose: Phoebe Philo, whose future at Céline has been the subject of speculation, and who’s said to be getting itchy feet after nine years at the LVMH-owned fashion house.

“Phoebe has the vision,” said Laura Vernier, partner at the Paris-based headhunter Jouve & Associés. “She is truly one of a kind, a highly intelligent artistic director and English.” Continue reading

COLETTE LAST CHANEL POP-UP

Karl Lagerfeld’s parting gift to Colette, the store that has counted him as its number-one customer for two decades.

Chanel will launch an Adidas Hu NMD shoe specially customized by Pharrell Williams for the house. The music star is featured in the advertising campaign for Chanel’s Gabrielle bag, has walked the runway for the brand and once composed a song for a Lagerfeld-directed Chanel film, but this marks the first time Williams has designed a product for the label.

Other exclusives include limited-edition T-shirts designed by Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel since 1983, and a music compilation by Michel Gaubert, who designs the soundtracks for its runway shows. Continue reading

CHINESE CURE OF YOUTH AT DIOR’S

Last Wednesday, in Shanghai, in presence of both brand ambassadors, the 29th year old actress Zhao Living and the Chinese model and actress Angelaby, Dior celebrated the reopening of its enlarged and revamped flagship in the major shopping of West Nanjing Road, which feature women’s and men’s collections, as well as fine jewelry and timepieces.

The presence of the young Ambassadors had a very positive impact on the young generation. Sidney Toledano, the CEO stated : We have seen that we are attracting more young people, but we are not a brand for teenagers. We want young people to dream about the brand.”

Far from changing Dior’s strategy in order to bow to the desires of younger consumers, Toledano counters that the brand’s heritage and authenticity that allow it to appeal to consumers of all ages in China and elsewhere. Continue reading

KARL LAGERFELD BACK HOME

Karl Lagerfeld has chosen one of Europe’s most amazing new buildings as venue for his next itinerant show for Chanel. It is his hometown: Hamburg. On December, 6th at the Elbphilharmonie, a hulking structure with a wavelike roofline designed by architects Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron.

Lagerfeld typically uses the destination to recount a chapter of the house lore, real or imagined, though he may be tempted to draw on his own history or a building he considers “stunning.”

According to the architects, the Elbphilharmonie takes inspiration from three structures: the ancient theater at Delphi, sport stadiums and tents which could all be fodder for Lagerfeld’s creativity.

The Elbphilharmonie, which opened last January, is located in Hamburg’s old working port. The new glass structure sits atop a hulking warehouse named the Kaiserspeicher originally built in 1875. Continue reading

HERMÈS DARE THE UGLY

The Spring-Summer ready-to-wear 2017 has the smell of an old sadler. The new artistic designer Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski failed with the code of Hermès. It seems that when she conceive the collection, she completely forgot who were the clients and in due fact the clients will forget Hermès.

The ugliness of the collection reflects the ill-being of the firm. More than an ill-being, it the industrialization and the change of economic model which disrupts the culture of the company. When the culture of a firm is not respected, the group becomes a MacDonald or in Vuitton. That’s the way it is.

In my opinion, the cocktail which consists to continuously give more money to the shareholders on less quality products is a cocktail which will lead the company to an end. It cannot happen in a brand like LVMH where brands in deficit rely on profitable brands. That cannot happen in a mono brand like Hermès. Continue reading

FATIMA LOPEZ PARIS 2018

The 38th Parisian collection of ready to wear created by Fatima Lopes get its inspiration by the amazing and magical aesthetic of Birds.

Enchanted by the harmony and the elegance of the colours association, often unexpected but always graceful, the designer created aerial and colourful silhouettes which combine lightness and nobility because of the choice of the fabrics, and strong architecture of the pattern which remind the steep lines of bird’s beaks.

The colours embrace each other in an explosion of bright and fruity colours such as raspberry, grapefruit, emerald green, red and so on.
Important is as well the utilisation of more neutral ones as nude and black, bringing balance to the palette through them pureness.

Among Beach and Cocktails, the superposition of silk’s chiffon layers plays with the transparencies and engage the clothing into a game a see through which show only lightly the body shapes.

Continue reading

LANVIN NO SHAW

The anagram of Lanvin is not lapidary but nival, the rich Chinese woman, Shaw-Lan Wang, who is in reality Taiwanese, recruits the new designer on feeling. But who would be the fashion designer of her dreams? It is a man, 100% straight, no salary expected, and supposed to have no integrity … For this first collection of Olivier Lapidus the emotion is egal at : nothing ! in the same way that you have no emotion when you go to Zara.

No observation of the world, superficial, outfashioned dresses, the common sewing and devoid of characteristics.

We leave the collection as the pigs emerge from a quagmire, stunned by displeasure. Even, Mrs. Imatoumi of the Qing dynasty, told me at the end of the show that she had never seen so much ‘duster cloth’. If you do not believe me, look at the pictures hereafter immersed in this abyss of diarrhea incubator, and you will stay without stifling or throw up, is prohibited, as a prisoner of the none creativity house Lanvin. Continue reading

NAMILIA TITS TILTE

Fashion Weeks are a real opportunity for new designers to make them known. Unfortunately, often we attend to presentation which will never be produced and are better suited for a conceptualized student show than one from a brand trying to sell product. It is a real debate which has been on for quite some time over the traditional fashion week runway format.

Namilia designers Nan Li and Emilia Pfohl seemed far from thoses concerns and have presented a collection inspired of the XVI/XVII centuries.

Therefore not only these clothes cannot be sold and technically there is a real lack of know-how. Those two designers should go back to a fashion school. Continue reading

PAUL KA AND PARTNERS

Change Capital Partners has sold a majority stake in French fashion brand Paule Ka to businessman Xavier Marie, and the brand will be parting ways with its chief executive officer and creative director.

Marie, founder and former ceo of furniture and home decor company Maisons du Monde, has acquired an 80 percent stake in Paule Ka, with Change Capital retaining the remaining 20 percent, a spokeswoman of the label said on Wednesday.

Catherine Vautrin, chairman and ceo of the house since February 2015, is leaving to explore new opportunities in Italy. Creative director Alithia Spurri-Zampetti will also be leaving the company after a two-year collaboration.

Paule Ka will not be presenting a spring collection during Paris Fashion Week. Instead, a capsule collection designed by its in-house studio will be shown to buyers at its showroom between Sept. Continue reading

DESIGUAL GOULD DEAL

Desigual has hired French artist, filmmaker, jean-Paul Goude as a creative director for the Spring Summer 2018 season.

Jean paul Goude, best known for his fashion illustrations and his work for Esquire Magazine, joins the Spanish brand . His debut as creative director will take place during New York Fashion Week on 7 September 2017, where he will present the first collection styled and selected by him.

The show will demonstrate Goude’s creative vision for Desigual, and will mark his arrival to the brand as creative director for the Spring Summer 2018 season. “I like challenges and helping Desigual on the process of updating its image while keeping faithful to its DNA it is extremely exciting.” said Goude. Continue reading

NY FASHION WEEK

Plenty of major names have skipped out of New York Fashion Week; Tommy Hilfiger is off to London for his show and the season has been shortened by one day. Nonetheless, despite, a five-brand departure.

Many designers have felt the allure of Europe; truly major global brands Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors and Tory Burch are still firmly committed to New York.

Proenza Schouler moved to Paris for the couture season in July. While Thom Browne took his menswear show all the way to the Beaux Arts. New York has also suffered the departure of Joseph Altuzarra who will take his spring 2018 show to the French capital. But Altuzarra’s is French nobody is perfect. Continue reading

LA REDOUTE NO DOUBT

Amazon will be in France the new digital retailers. That is why Galeries Lafayette announced on Thursday its control over the French clothing and home furnishing catalogue, La Redoute.

It is the start of a move of Department stores to face Amazon. Department stores like Galeries Lafayette are the right balance between physical stores and digital offerings.

La Redoute, which historically belonged to Kering, is a household name in France, selling a broad selection of clothing and furniture. Kering exited the business in 2014 as part of a broader strategy to focus on brands with global appeal, selling the company to La Redoute managers. Continue reading

CHANEL NEGATIVE RESULT

Unlike its main competitors, LVMH and Kering, which last year both posted record growth, in 2016 Chanel suffered a fall in sales and profits. After years of steady growth, Chanel indeed continues to slow down. As in 2015, last year the French fashion label, led since 1983 by Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld, saw its net income plummet by 34.8%, down to $874 million (€736 million), while its revenue lost 9%, reaching $5.67 billion (€4.77 billion).

According to the group, the downturn is chiefly explained by the sale of its Chanel Limited UK subsidiary, which accounts for approximately 11% of sales, to another Chanel-owned corporation. “On a like-for-like basis and at constant exchange rates, the results were on par with 2015,” wrote the group in its yearly report, noting also how, among other reasons, in the first part of the year Chanel was affected by the terrorist attacks in Europe, which “had a negative impact on tourist flows and consequently sales.” Continue reading

VANS AND KARL COOPERATION

Vans and Karl Lagerfeld have just signed a cooperation to design a footwear and apparel capsule set to be launched worldwide on September 7.

The two brands have fused their respective universes, the Vans’ hallmark checkerboard pattern is revisited using a cameo motif depicting Lagerfeld’s iconic profile.

There will be six interpretations of Vans footwear classics include the Sk8-Hi laceless platform and Old Skool laceless (old school, Karl knows well about it) styles outfitted in leather with the quilted letter-shaped detail atop white platform soles, and a solid black leather Classic Slip-On — also with the quilted letter K. Continue reading