VOROZHBYT & ZEMSKOVA KIEV 2017

Tetyana Zemskova and Olena Vorozhbyt are among the leading designers of Ukraine. The style of their tandem is faultlessly recognizable at Ukrainian Fashion Show. It is built on contrasts: intellectuality and severity with a keen sense of humor.

There is a preciseness of the silhouettes and patterns, with love to details and little parts. Classic textiles with newfangled fashions. They work with contrasts of colors and tones, heat and chillness, risk and official styles, trying to combine uncombined. Since 1997 designers are working under their own brand «V&Z».

By this time they began to show two every year season collections within Ukrainian Fashion Week. They are not just participants of the most sounding fashion festivals in Europe, but also act as judges of national competitions. Their clients are the elite of Ukrainian society. Continue reading

IVANKA TRUMP MADE IN CHINA

Throughout his presidential campaign, one of the biggest platforms that Donald Trump ran on was, according to his website, his opposition to American companies that manufacture their products overseas. However, as his opponents quickly pointed out during election season, both Donald and Ivanka’s clothing lines are made in countries like Bangladesh and China.

Since Donald’s own eponymous apparel line essentially folded, the focus is now on his daughter Ivanka’s manufacturing practices. The New York Times reports that several products from Ivanka’s line are produced overseas. In fact, in 2016 alone, there were at least 193 shipments of imported goods for Ivanka Trump brands, according to a review the paper commissioned from trade database ImportGenius. A review of tags and financial documents from G-III Apparel Group revealed that Ivanka’s dresses and blouses are made in China, Indonesia, and Vietnam. Continue reading

TONY WARD OUTDATED

Stuck in history. Tony Ward presented his spring-summer collection 2017 during Paris fashion week at the Orotoire du Louvre offering to his guest a mystic and romantic experience. The spirit of this collection was influenced by a story dating the Byzantine period. Ward tried to evoke a moment in history where clothes were very rich in colors and heavy decorated, using quality fabrics with vivid colors embroided with precious stones, crystals and floral laces.

Even thought this collection has a concept and it was well realized we must say that it is a little bit out dated. It is nice to reconnect with tradition and history. However, Ward could have gone further in his design to make it more contemporary by pushing the concept in a more recent vision. It is true that Ward is known for his timeless design which provides a classical image and it is clear that there is a quality of embroideries and fabrics but it is hard to imagine that a young lady or even a sophisticated and a modern woman of today would identify herself with this style. Continue reading

STEPHANE ROLLAND COUTURE 2017

Less is more? Stephane Rolland presented his collection spring-summer 2017 at Xinhua Gallery in the 8th district during Paris Fashion week.

Rolland provided to his guests the experience of a very minimalistic architectural space with the dresses exposed like sculptures in a podium, an idea which fits well with the concept of his design.

Stephane Rolland is well known for the pure style, minimalist approach and sculptural organic shapes in his couture. We must say this collection, even though it is not very different from what we have seen before from Rolland, it is still very pleasant to watch in terms of esthetics. This time some of the dresses gave an image of a princess-like dress. It gives a vision of a modern eastern princess coming out from a fairytale. Continue reading

JULIEN FOURNIÉ HAUTE COUTURE

Julien Fournié is inspired by kinetic art and the works of its masters in the 1960s. The new “permanent member” of the restricted circle of Haute Couture is pacing his collection with a dialogue between 2D and 3D with semi-geometrical, semi-physiological shapes. He is using them both in garment architecture and in graphic embellishments. Continue reading

ITALIAN GOUV SUPPORTS FASHION

Italy’s government continues to support the country’s fashion industry and has pledged to channel 36 million euros, or $38.1 million, in the system this year through the Italian Trade Commission.

Opening Pitti Uomo in Florence on Tuesday, Carlo Calenda, Italy’s minister for economic development, announced the investment,

Emphasizing the importance of Calenda inaugurating the international men’s wear trade show, Marzotto said the minister showed confidence in the event and underscored the efforts organizers are making to attract buyers from new countries. Continue reading

SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE

Schiaparelli has officially been awarded Haute Couture status by the French Ministry of Industry and the French Couture Federation, confirmed the brand yesterday. Despite showing its collections during Couture Fashion Week each season since its high-profile has been relaunched in 2014, the fashion house has only enjoyed guest status until now.

A great couturier and visionary artist, Elsa Schiaparelli brought an artist’s sensibility to 20th century fashion. She was the first to assign a theme to her Haute Couture collections starting in the early 1930s.

As a child, Elsa felt a deep affection and immense admiration for her uncle, Giovanni Schiaparelli, the renowned astronomer. In her autobiography, Shocking Life, Elsa Schiaparelli recounts that her uncle told her the beauty marks on her cheek were arranged like stars forming the Ursa Major constellation. Continue reading

WE ARE NOT: GOING WELL !

Last May,the leather goods brand, WE ARE NOT, opened its first outlet 7 rue Malher in the 4th district of Paris. It was only six months ago, and six months later the companies is in liquidation.

WE ARE NOT was created with the objective of revolutionizing high-end leather goods by offering high-quality, sustainable and fashionable pieces at less than 300 euros.

To create beautiful, practical and sustainable  pieces, WE ARE NOT went to seek the know-where where it is, in a family workshop in Tunisia. Nappa calfskin was selected for its finesse of grain, its sophistication and its silky touch. Diving leathers, that is to say that the tint is produced by immersion, which ensures an excellent resistance of the coloring. Only precious skins can benefit from this technique. Continue reading

GANGTAI TAKES CONTROL BUCCELLATI

buccelati2Buccellati has a new owner. The historic Milanese jewellery label, in which Italian private equity firm Clessidra acquired a 67% stake in 2013, has been sold to Chinese conglomerate Gangtai, specialized in the consumer, culture, finance and health industries.

The Italian private equity firm and the Buccellati family, which held 33% of the capital, have announced in a press release that they have sold an 85% stake in the label to the Chinese group, while still holding the remaining 15%. The amount of the transaction was not disclosed.

Clessidra has been trying to sell Buccellati for several months, and Swiss luxury group Richemont was tipped as a potential buyer. Continue reading

CALLOT SISTERS STORY

callotCallot Soeurs (French pronunciation: (kalo) was one of the leading fashion design houses of the 1910s and 1920s.

Callot Soeurs opened in 1895 at 24, rue Taitbout in Paris, France. It was operated by the four Callot sisters: Marie Callot Gerber, Marthe Callot Bertrand, Regina Callot Tennyson-Chantrell and Joséphine Callot Crimont. The sisters were born in France to a Russian family.

The eldest sister, Marie, was trained in dressmaking, having earlier worked for Raudnitz and Co., prominent Parisian dressmakers, and they were all taught by their mother, a lacemaker. The sisters began working with antique laces and ribbons to enhance blouses and lingerie. Their success led to an expansion into other clothing.

In 1900, they were featured at the Paris World’s Fair. That year, they had a staff of two hundred and did two million francs in sales. By 1901, they had tripled their workforce and doubled their sales. Continue reading

FRANCA DIED AT 66

franca3The “Lady of Fashion.” Franca Sozzani died in Milan at the age 66 years old. She dedicated her life to support fashion and creativity in all its forms.

She was Vogue Italia editor in chief, born in Mantua, Italy, in 1950. Sozzani headed the Italian magazine for 28 years, shaping it into one of the most influential fashion titles in the world. Sozzani’s career unfurled at Condé Nast, as she started at Vogue Bambini in the Seventies, followed by women’s magazine Lei and men’s magazine Per Lui in the Eighties.

He pointed to her sense of humor and healthy distance from the industry. “She had a very transversal idea of life and would find the irony in vanity.” Continue reading

SIX FEET DEEP FASHION DESIGNERS

pafweeksNext Januray, six new fashion designers have been invited to the next edition of the Paris Haute Couture Week. Paris Fashion Week will host no less than six new names: Antonio Grimaldi, Galia Lahav, Georges Hobeika, Hyun Mi Nielsen, Maison Rabih Kayrouz and Xuan.

The Chambre Syndicale has also re-invited the members hosted in previous sessions: Aouadi, Francesco Scognamiglio, Guo Pei, Iris Van Herpen, Julien Fournié, Ralph & Russo, Schiaparelli, Ulyana Sergeenko, Vetements, Yuima Nakazato and Zuhair Murad.

The new foreign labels will benefit from a great deal of media exposure, offering a big boost to these  couturiers comprising both well-established names and emerging designers.

The most important is to find young talents and to support them. If you really want to boost your presentation, you have just to invite the group Canal-Luxe which represents today 21 millions of readers.

SUPER SATURDAY

fournieThe weekend wasn’t quite the knockout retailers hoped for because of frigid weather, snow and ice storms in the country. The key question was whether the last-minute rush over the weekend will be enough for stores to hit their holiday targets of 3 to 4 percent growth  and at what price to margins those sales will come.

Saturday was actually pretty busy. It was almost the equivalent to last year’s final Saturday. Although we were slightly behind in traffic, the malls had been lagging, mostly because the holiday selling season has been spread out, beginning before Black Friday and extending out due to the extra shopping weekend this year.

Typically for Black Friday, 50 percent off is almost always planned promotions. This past weekend, maybe a few were planned promotions. I would venture that because promotions were deeper, the management teams did not think this was a successful holiday. Continue reading

ON AURA TOUT VU AND ISADORA

isadora-dore-caron-par-on-aura-tout-vuON AURA TOUT VU loves to distort Couture, fashion and glam, everyday accessories, bags, glasses, jewels…

In association with the famous brand Caron, Livia & Yassem have revisited a spray of sequins and preciosity, with flaches of crystal, nacre and magical stuff. The spirit of the designers of On Aura Tout Vu redesigns our daily life, showing us new facets, giving it sparkle, and offering it back to us shiny precious and rafinated.

In 1910 while the elegant women, who adore Caron perfume from all over Europe, do not hesitate to travel to Paris, buying their bottle. Ernest Daltroff developed a wonderful fragrance called “ISADORA” in honour of Isadora Duncan, infamous dancer in the 10’s, early Art Deco era. Continue reading

THERESA MAY BE

Here, Theresa May attends the funeral of Margaret Thatcher in London, in 2013.At 10 Downing Street a war of words has been declared between David Cameron’s former education secretary, Nicky Morgan and Prime Minister Theresa May. Morgan accused May of Profligacy in her purchase of a pair of brownish-gold Amanda Wakeley leather trousers, which she wore at home during a recent shoot for The Sunday Times of London — and more recently for work at No. 10 Downing Street.

May is famous for loving fashion and promoting British Fashion Designers. She has long been wearing designer brands including Roland Mouret, Anya Hindmarch, and Russell & Bromley.

In September, May even hosted a cocktail at Downing Street to usher in London Fashion Week and give the industry a pep talk. “Thank you for what you are doing for British business out there, and across the world,” she told designers and industry leaders. “Long live British fashion. Let’s go from success to success.” Continue reading

DIOR IN MELBOURNE

dior1The National Gallery of Victoria will stage a Christian Dior retrospective next year to commemorate Dior’s 70th anniversary. Christian Dior designed under his own name for only a decade, but his influence is everlasting.

Although Dior declined to confirm or deny that other similar exhibitions are in the pipeline for 2017, NGV senior curator fashion and textiles Katie Somerville said she understands the Melbourne show is one of three retrospectives that Dior has in development for its 70th anniversary year, with a Paris show at the Louvre and another in New York yet to be announced.

Showcasing 140 couture garments spanning 1947 until the present day and exclusive to the NGV, "The House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture" will run from Aug. 27 through Nov. 7, 2017 at the Melbourne museum. Continue reading

CHANEL MÉTIERS D’ART 2017

canalWhen Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld took over the Ritz Paris and sent beauties like Mariacarla Boscono striding across the thick carpets in sophisticated French fashions, the Italian model in a sultry, fluted dress with a skirt composed of golden eyelash tinsel.

You must be convinced that you are the most beautiful and chicest woman in the world, Said Lagerfeld during a fitting on Monday for his latest Métiers d’Art collection. He dubbed it “Paris Cosmopolite” to evoke a time when elegant women from the world over converged on the mythic Place Vendôme hotel, established in 1898, the Ritz.

The soul of Paris and Gabrielle Chanel, the Ritz, and the Hemingway bar. This is the kind of Paris everyone would like to bring back. Karl confessed to fleeting references to the Twenties and Thirties, when the founding designer took up residence at the famous hotel a stone’s throw from her Rue Cambon headquarters. Continue reading

THE BIG BANG LVMH

hublot-big-bang-watchFerrari and Hublot, the Swiss watchmaker controlled by LVMH, unveiled the result of their latest collaboration at the Italian luxury car manufacturer’s factory in Maranello.

Called “Big Bang Ferrari,” it is a limited edition re-design and a customization of Hublot’s signature Big Bang watch, first launched in 2005. Available in three variations – titanium, carbon fiber and King Gold – the “Big Bang Ferrari,” features Hublot’s patented Unico movement with details inspired by Ferrari’s car designs.

The two companies started their partnership in 2011 when Hublot became the licensee of Ferrari’s watches and the official timekeeping partner of all the Italian brand activities.

“This watch is the natural result of the synergy between the Ferrari design team and Hublot, since we met many times to design each single detail,” said Flavio Manzoni, senior vice-president of Ferrari design. Continue reading

JONATHAN SIMKHAI RESORT 2017

canalJonathan Simkhai is a New York based women’s wear designer. Since launching his eponymous label in 2010, he has designed unique pieces capturing a balance between masculine strength and feminine sensuality.

Jonathan’s love affair with fashion began at age 14 working as buyer and merchandiser at a local boutique. Jonathan Simkhai was a member of the CFDA {Fashion Incubator} inaugural class and in 2015, Simkhai showed his first runway collection and was inducted into the CFDA. In November 2015 Jonathan Simkhai was named a winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.

Inspired by the iconic glass ceilings of the Grand Palais and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Simkhai filled his gowns with transparencies, gilded details and fantastical elements. Continue reading