VUITTON NET OF THRONES

Last week, Louis Vuitton joined the online market likes of Burberry, Gucci and Michael Kors still dominated by local China giants such as Tmall and JD.com.

“This was expected and somewhat overdue — clearly a good sign that the European megabrands are finally entering the Chinese luxury digital market,” said Luca Solca, head of luxury goods at Exane BNP Paribas.

Rogerio Fujimori, analyst at RBC Capital Markets, agreed it was a logical move, since Chinese consumers are increasingly making luxury purchases at home, taking advantage of narrowing price differentials and Chinese government initiatives to streamline customs procedures for e-commerce.

“There is a structural trend toward repatriation in general, and within China, like in any other market, there is a shift to omnichannel, a shift to mobile,” he said. “You have the Millennial segment that is more digital-influenced, that will grow older and they’ll carry on those habits, so I think they’re adapting.” Continue reading

NO ARM BANDIT FOR LINKS

Links of London is opening its fifth U.S. boutique at the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas on Saturday.

Links is offering an interactive experience both in the stores and online because “personalization and storytelling are at the core of the Links of London DNA” said Leela Petrakis, president of FF Group North America, the company that owns the brand.

The store will feature displays that incorporate elements unique like the Sweetie collection — bracelet and whimsical charms — that will be showcased in a display reimagined to look like a roulette table. You will also find an Engraving and Customization Bar which will allow customers to custom design their charm bracelets. Other services at the store include in-house engraving, restringing and polishing. Continue reading

THE FRANCO-ITALIAN LVMH CONNECTION

Louis Vuitton is extending its vocational training model to Italy through a partnership between the Institut des Métiers d’Excellence (IME) and the Italian fashion and design school Polimoda, aimed at training leather-goods artisans.

Founded in 2014, the IME program is involved in schooling more than 200 young people in areas including jewelry, dressmaking, winemaking, leather goods, culinary arts, watches, luxury retail and design together with partner institutions in France and Switzerland.

They include BJO Formation in Paris for jewelry, the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne for fashion and the Ferrandi Paris school for gastronomy. Polimoda becomes the first Italian school to join the initiative, beginning with the 2017-2018 school year. Continue reading

GEORGES KERN QUITS RICHEMONT

The recent management shake-ups at Richemont Group just took an unexpected turn. The luxury conglomerate, which owns brands the likes of Cartier, IWC and Vacheron Constantin, announced earlier today that its head of watchmaking, marketing and digital, Georges Kern, has resigned, effective immediately.

Kern, who has been with the Swiss luxury group for 17 years, only assumed this latest role less than four months ago.

He has also stepped down from the Senior Executive Committee and the Group Management Committee, and will no longer be standing for election to the Board of Directors of Compagnie Financière Richemont SA at the forthcoming annual general meeting of shareholders. Continue reading

LAPIDUS AND LANVIN

Olivier Lapidus from latin ‘lapideus’, meaning ‘made of stone, 59 years old, is a french designer quite known in France but almost unknown in the world has been appointed on Monday as the new artistic director of Lanvin.

He is expected to present his first Lanvin collection in September for the spring 2018 women’s ready-to-wear season,.

The company, founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889, has been majority owned since 2001 by Taiwan-based media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang. It has seen sales erode for several years which has been leading to financial difficulties.

Besides the minority shareholder Ralph Bartel and investment banker Pierre Mallevays of Savigny Partners, both board members, have submitted letters of resignation to disassociate themselves from Wang’s decisions and governance as Wang did not go through a proper process using professional advice from a talent search firm. Continue reading

LANVIN FIRED BOUCHRA JARRAR

Shaw-Lan Wang, the owner of the brand Lanvin which is in great financial difficulties has just decided to fire the actual artistic director Bouchra Jarrar after having fired the renowned designer Alber Elbaz

Bouchra Jarrar was very weakened by the lack of success of his collections. His departure had been acquired for a while already, “said the Reuter’s source.

The stylist was only appointed 15 months ago at the head of the artistic direction of the women’s fashion label. There will be no collection for the upcoming spring-summer season (scheduled for late September), said the source.

Taken in the turmoil since the departure of its former artistic director Alber Elbaz, Lanvin saw its sales fall by 23% in 2016, to 162 million euros, and recorded a net loss of 18.3 million, after a profit of 6.3 million in 2015. The trend was further aggravated in early 2017, with sales falling 32% in the first two months of the year compared to the same period in 2016,

Continue reading

CHANEL EFFECT TOWER

Stunning, the power of Wertheimer group who moved the Eiffel Tower under the dome of the Grand Palais. Lord Hamburger had even ordered clouds at the ceiling for this occasion, but he does not yet speak to God like the lord of the Arnaults. However, he has asked a German engineer, Herbert Von Wolke, to do this miracle.

Madame Gabrielle loved towers especially the Fernsehturm. Printed on our invitation, a painting by Delaunay that we had recognized and therefore we suspected that after the rocket we will have the most famous tower of the world.

In fact, the French house killed two birds with one stone: celebrating the emblematic founder of the house, and launching its new perfume named “Mademoiselle”. Then, we attended to the presentation of dresses in the shape of the perfume bottle. The Baroness of Cystitia Rheynale, told me that she had recognized in the first models the style of her friend, the great Chantal de Monteunez that she had not seen for a long time. Continue reading

DIOR 70 HAUTE COUTURE

Dior took place at Les Invalides, transformed for the occasion into a Garden of Eden located in the middle of Paris, place Vauban where the cohorts of limousines formed a fortress.

The Prince of Luxury surely spoke with God to ensure a sunny weather! The sky became blue with a few clouds from time to time to leave a slightly cool breeze caressing the bodies of women dressed for the occasion as if the air conditioning had been regulated by the nature. Dear Sir, you know that we enjoyed this tour de force, and we are aware that you like to speak to the Gods of Olympus to satisfy your audience.

Upon arriving, I came across the American actor Robert Pattinson, the couturier Alber Elbaz as well as a floor of people of TV reality series, Vicomtesses and Baronesses, who represented the society for the second collection Haute Couture of Maria Grazia Chiuri. Continue reading

MORE AND SIMPLE SPIRIT

The French Fashion Federation have simplified its name and changed the logo and the internet website. From now, the federation will be known as La Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. In the past the full name of the French Fashion Federation was : La Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode, especially long and not easy to translate in english. So the decision was made to simplify the name but still not really to translate…. This is the french organisation.

The story of the founding of the Federation’s respective trade associations dates back to 1868, when Paris-based British designer Charles Frederick Worth created the Chambre Syndicale de la Confection et de la Couture pour Dames et Fillettes. In 1911, the trade association became strictly couture-focused, shortening its name to the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. After World War II, it was changed once again to La Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Continue reading

CHANEL KNOCK-OFF

Last Friday, in California, federal judge condemned 30 sellers of counterfeit Chanel-logoed products that had been operating through Amazon.com. the famous luxury house

The court condemned $100,000 each seller-defendant for every knock-off item they sold leaving Chanel to collect somewhere around $3 million as a result of the decision.

Amazon must now disable the defending stores and take down images of any infringing product. Amazon Payments is this week supposed to transfer funds held in the accounts of the sellers to Chanel. Although details of the account holdings are not available, the totals are unlikely to equal the amount of damages.

 

RIMO WAY FOR SUCCESS

In June, the LVMH-owned brand hired Hector Muelas as Chief Brand Officer to oversee the brand’s global marketing and communications.

This month, Rimowa appointed Rocky Jacob as Chief Product Officer, marking as the second major appointment for the German luggage producer.

Rocky Jacob, Rimowa’s newest addition, headed the Alphabet-owned home automation producer that created the “learning” digital thermostat that adjusts room temperature based on patterns. At Nest, he served Head of Industrial Design, and now he will serve as an adviso. Continue reading

RON FRASCH JOINS BURBERRY’S BOARD

Formerly president and chief merchandising office of Saks Fifth Avenue, Ron Frasch has just been invited to join the Board of Directors of Burberry.

Burberry has tapped veteran retailer and private equity partner Ron Frasch as a member of its board of directors. He will serve as a non-executive director and a member of the remuneration and nomination committee, with effect from September.

Frasch is an operating partner at the Newton, Mass.-based private equity firm Castanea Partners. His focus is on the luxury space, which includes apparel, accessories, footwear and jewelry.

Frasch is also joining Burberry as it rethinks its strategy in the U.S., where it has a mix of wholesale and retail outlets. Sales have been shrinking in the region due to a variety of factors.

BRANQUINHO QUITS FASHION

Just a few sentences to say it is the end. Véronique Branquinho, who had successfully relaunched her feminine ready-to-wear brand five years ago, announces the ending clap.

The Belgian designer created her own couture house in 1998, parading for the first time in Paris at the age of 24. Alone at the head of her company, affected by the financial crisis, she had to stop her ready-to-wear collections (woman and man) for the first time in 2009.

In 2012, she started again with the women’s line in Spring-Summer 2013 thanks to Onward Luxury Group (ex-Gibò), which had always continued to produce its line of shoes. The European subsidiary of the Japanese group Onward, a reference in Italy for the production and distribution of very high-end collections, holds Jil Sander. Continue reading

FIRST VISION BY MALKOVICH

Première Vision Paris, Tuesday, September 19, 2017, 5:30 pm: meet at the heart of the Forum Première Vision Fabrics (Hall 6) to discover the winners of the ninth edition of the PV Awards.

The opportunity to reward the most remarkable, inventive and innovative creations and leathers selected from the exhibitors of Première Vision Fabrics and Première Vision Leather. In order to make its choice, the world’s first clothing and leatherwear trade fair meets in September each year with a prestigious jury made up of influential personalities from the international fashion scene. Continue reading

ROCHAS POP-UP STORE IN PARIS

With Paris men’s fashion week around the corner, Rochas has opened its first pop-up store dedicated to its fledgling men’s wear line under creative director Beatrice Ferrant.

Located at 420 rue Saint-Honoré, the minimalist space, with a décor mixing parquet flooring, linear black units and a black marble counter, offers a selection of picks from across the brand’s fall 2017 ready-to-wear and accessories lines. Spanning sweatshirts with craggy textures and crease-free tuxedo pant with elasticated waists. The urban-chic collection has been designed under Ferrant, who was tapped by the Inter Parfums-owned house last September to revive its men’s line after a 22-year hiatus. Continue reading

HERMES MADE IN FRANCE

Hermès will create 220 jobs in France with the inauguration of two new production sites for leather goods in Normandy, Val-de-Reuil and New Aquitaine, in Saint-Juvien.

On June 13, the company will inaugurate a new leather goods store in Val-de-Reuil (Eure), to host workshops formerly located on a site of Hermès Parfums and which are destined to develop. Eventually, the manufacture of leather goods will make 250 craftsmen work there.

All of our leather good items are made in France, notably highlighting that “the French craft tradition from which they are derived enhances their image with an international clientele. Continue reading

FASHION QATAR AIR WAVE

Stefano Sassi, chief executive officer of Valentino, responded about the political decision of Saudi Arabia, Egypt, Bahrain, United Arab Emirates, Yemen and Libya to cut diplomatic ties with Qatar: the Italian fashion group being controlled by Qatar Mayhoola for Investments.

The three Gulf countries and Egypt accused Qatar of supporting terrorism and destabilizing the region. Qatar which shares its only land border with Saudi Arabia has rejected the accusations, calling them “unjustified” and “baseless.”

Qatari citizens have been told they have 14 days to leave Saudi Arabia, Bahrain and the UAE, and those countries also banned their own citizens from entering Qatar. Continue reading

LINDBERGH CROSSING THE ATLANTIC

Ermanno Scervino has asked the photographer Peter Lindbergh to launch the fall advertising campaign of his label. Set in Paris, the images are fronted by Italian model Mariacarla Boscono.

Flanked by male model Victor Norlander, Boscono is captured strolling on the riverfront of the Seine in the black, white and colored images.

Scervino said Boscono was “perfect” for the campaign, explaining how “thanks to her personality, she is able to interpret all my creations in an original and authentic way.”

As the designer wanted a strong and independent woman to embody his fall collection, Boscono is styled in mannish garments a total-white suit and flat, lace-up shoes. More feminine light dresses, embellished with pleats and details in lace, are coupled with military-inspired, oversize coats with fur inserts. Continue reading

HENNEQUIN SOUL PHOTOGRAPHER

Yesterday I met a human being who was dripping with talent. Although the climb was treacherous to the hill of Saint-Cloud, the view from the top was worth it all.

A true artist from head to toe, he could even be the son of Patrick Demarchelier. His presence was piercing. “I have always been fascinated by the great painters” mused John, who crafts portraits with the grace of the renaissance painters. He interprets the light and the dark, the tonality and the relationships between the colours, the compositions and the general ambience in a way that only he can.

He is the Vermeer of photography. I adore his almost cinematic compositions, the movement in his photos brings the subject matter to life, creating a tangible sense of vulnerability. Continue reading

LUXURY SALES FORECASTS

Sales of personal luxury goods in 2017 will reach some 254 billion euros to 259 billion euros, up from last year’s 249 billion euros, according to the studies. By 2020, the personal luxury goods market is seen reaching 290 billion euros.

In terms of market expectations in the various geographies, there were also a couple of variations. The personal luxury goods market in North America, which in October was forecasting to grow by 3 percent this year, is now seen expanding by 2 percent, in part due to the continued crisis in the department store industry.

Latin America, last fall forecasted an expansion by 3 percent in 2017, is now seen growing by a modest 1 percent this year, in part due to less favorable currency conditions. Continue reading