BULGARI THE MOST IMPORTANT MOMENTS

Last Friday, Carlo Calenda, Minister of Economic Development inaugurated the new Bulgari manufacturing plant and offices in Valenza, the historic jewelry hub located between Milan, Turin and Genoa. The Minister of Economic Development, Carlo Calenda stated that “International investments do help Made in Italy”.

When Bulgari was acquired by LVMH in 2011, Italian media worried about a possible decamping of talent and creativity outside the country. However last year Italy registered “record exports” of 417 billion euros, or $459 billion at average exchange, which were “drivers of development, showing what Italian and international entrepreneurs can do.” Continue reading

ISSEY MIYAKE IN MILANO

Issey Miyake has inaugurated yesterday its first Italian flagship. Located in Milan on Via Bagutta, the 5,381-square-foot store is the first commercial space to open in 19th century Palazzo Reina, which was recently restored by a real estate firm.

“It’s exciting to see the synergy creating between the historic building and the Issey Miyake collections,” said Issey Miyake designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae, who highlighted that the Milanese flagship carries seven of the company’s lines, including the Issey Miyake label for both men’s and women’s, as well as Pleats Please Issey Miyake and Bao Bao Issey Miyake. “It’s a wide offering and it will be fun to see how customers will mix the different labels.” Continue reading

BALENCIAGA

Lionel Vermeil is back at Balenciaga, as director of communication and image, effective Tuesday. He continues as director of fashion and luxury intelligence at Kering, Balenciaga’s parent, a role he’s held since September 2014.

Vermeil had been director of communications at Balenciaga between 2007 and 2014. In his expanded role, he is to define the communication strategy and image in concert with Balenciaga’s artistic director Demna Gvasalia.

He reports to Balenciaga chief executive Cédric Charbit and joins the house’s executive committee.

The top communications job has been vacant since mid-2015 when Demetria White rejoined Nike as senior director of global communications. Continue reading

JUNKO SHIMADA 伎 IN FASHION

In transit at the Palais de Tokyo today, Junko Shimada literally delivers a collection picked up from her suspended garden between Paris and Tokyo.

Lover of joyful contrasts Junko Shimada makes everything rhyme, day and night, long and short, hot and cold, matte and shiny. Enjoying the delightful shifts, she brings together the cool and the chic, the city and the countryside, the simple and the rich …

Perfecto suits, impeccable overcoats, pencil skirts in woolen cloth stripes, marine sneakers exacer- bated by sinuous pythons. Pristine crepe blouses and dresses with black pleated ridges. Continue reading

TONY WARD OUTDATED

Stuck in history. Tony Ward presented his spring-summer collection 2017 during Paris fashion week at the Orotoire du Louvre offering to his guest a mystic and romantic experience. The spirit of this collection was influenced by a story dating the Byzantine period. Ward tried to evoke a moment in history where clothes were very rich in colors and heavy decorated, using quality fabrics with vivid colors embroided with precious stones, crystals and floral laces.

Even thought this collection has a concept and it was well realized we must say that it is a little bit out dated. It is nice to reconnect with tradition and history. However, Ward could have gone further in his design to make it more contemporary by pushing the concept in a more recent vision. It is true that Ward is known for his timeless design which provides a classical image and it is clear that there is a quality of embroideries and fabrics but it is hard to imagine that a young lady or even a sophisticated and a modern woman of today would identify herself with this style. Continue reading

STEPHANE ROLLAND COUTURE 2017

Less is more? Stephane Rolland presented his collection spring-summer 2017 at Xinhua Gallery in the 8th district during Paris Fashion week.

Rolland provided to his guests the experience of a very minimalistic architectural space with the dresses exposed like sculptures in a podium, an idea which fits well with the concept of his design.

Stephane Rolland is well known for the pure style, minimalist approach and sculptural organic shapes in his couture. We must say this collection, even though it is not very different from what we have seen before from Rolland, it is still very pleasant to watch in terms of esthetics. This time some of the dresses gave an image of a princess-like dress. It gives a vision of a modern eastern princess coming out from a fairytale. Continue reading

JULIEN FOURNIÉ HAUTE COUTURE

Julien Fournié is inspired by kinetic art and the works of its masters in the 1960s. The new “permanent member” of the restricted circle of Haute Couture is pacing his collection with a dialogue between 2D and 3D with semi-geometrical, semi-physiological shapes. He is using them both in garment architecture and in graphic embellishments. Continue reading

YANINA COUTURE

Haute couture in Paris has just started and we are excited to see what it is new, creative and original this year. Today I attended the Haute Couture show of Yanina Couture. Julia Yanina is a russian fashion designer. She has made an original approach by mixing two very different cultures together, russian and spanish. A combination which is very delicate to accomplish and not so evident.

In this collection she tried to achieve the creation of a love story between a russian ballerina and a spanish matador which was quite obvious on the use and combination of colors, patterns and embroided laces. The pieces varied from nude, to pastel colours and to end up with the strong matador red.

The black laces very elegantly embroided and carefuly transformed sometimes into images of ballerinas dancing, on a nude transparent texture it is not something new in her designs but this time, the same idea was applied with motives of the matador embroidery and the flamboyant symbols which made the transition and the fusion of the romantic ballerina to the dramatic matador. Continue reading

ITALIAN GOUV SUPPORTS FASHION

Italy’s government continues to support the country’s fashion industry and has pledged to channel 36 million euros, or $38.1 million, in the system this year through the Italian Trade Commission.

Opening Pitti Uomo in Florence on Tuesday, Carlo Calenda, Italy’s minister for economic development, announced the investment,

Emphasizing the importance of Calenda inaugurating the international men’s wear trade show, Marzotto said the minister showed confidence in the event and underscored the efforts organizers are making to attract buyers from new countries. Continue reading

SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE

Schiaparelli has officially been awarded Haute Couture status by the French Ministry of Industry and the French Couture Federation, confirmed the brand yesterday. Despite showing its collections during Couture Fashion Week each season since its high-profile has been relaunched in 2014, the fashion house has only enjoyed guest status until now.

A great couturier and visionary artist, Elsa Schiaparelli brought an artist’s sensibility to 20th century fashion. She was the first to assign a theme to her Haute Couture collections starting in the early 1930s.

As a child, Elsa felt a deep affection and immense admiration for her uncle, Giovanni Schiaparelli, the renowned astronomer. In her autobiography, Shocking Life, Elsa Schiaparelli recounts that her uncle told her the beauty marks on her cheek were arranged like stars forming the Ursa Major constellation. Continue reading

WE ARE NOT: GOING WELL !

Last May,the leather goods brand, WE ARE NOT, opened its first outlet 7 rue Malher in the 4th district of Paris. It was only six months ago, and six months later the companies is in liquidation.

WE ARE NOT was created with the objective of revolutionizing high-end leather goods by offering high-quality, sustainable and fashionable pieces at less than 300 euros.

To create beautiful, practical and sustainable  pieces, WE ARE NOT went to seek the know-where where it is, in a family workshop in Tunisia. Nappa calfskin was selected for its finesse of grain, its sophistication and its silky touch. Diving leathers, that is to say that the tint is produced by immersion, which ensures an excellent resistance of the coloring. Only precious skins can benefit from this technique. Continue reading

GANGTAI TAKES CONTROL BUCCELLATI

buccelati2Buccellati has a new owner. The historic Milanese jewellery label, in which Italian private equity firm Clessidra acquired a 67% stake in 2013, has been sold to Chinese conglomerate Gangtai, specialized in the consumer, culture, finance and health industries.

The Italian private equity firm and the Buccellati family, which held 33% of the capital, have announced in a press release that they have sold an 85% stake in the label to the Chinese group, while still holding the remaining 15%. The amount of the transaction was not disclosed.

Clessidra has been trying to sell Buccellati for several months, and Swiss luxury group Richemont was tipped as a potential buyer. Continue reading

CALLOT SISTERS STORY

callotCallot Soeurs (French pronunciation: (kalo) was one of the leading fashion design houses of the 1910s and 1920s.

Callot Soeurs opened in 1895 at 24, rue Taitbout in Paris, France. It was operated by the four Callot sisters: Marie Callot Gerber, Marthe Callot Bertrand, Regina Callot Tennyson-Chantrell and Joséphine Callot Crimont. The sisters were born in France to a Russian family.

The eldest sister, Marie, was trained in dressmaking, having earlier worked for Raudnitz and Co., prominent Parisian dressmakers, and they were all taught by their mother, a lacemaker. The sisters began working with antique laces and ribbons to enhance blouses and lingerie. Their success led to an expansion into other clothing.

In 1900, they were featured at the Paris World’s Fair. That year, they had a staff of two hundred and did two million francs in sales. By 1901, they had tripled their workforce and doubled their sales. Continue reading

FRANCA DIED AT 66

franca3The “Lady of Fashion.” Franca Sozzani died in Milan at the age 66 years old. She dedicated her life to support fashion and creativity in all its forms.

She was Vogue Italia editor in chief, born in Mantua, Italy, in 1950. Sozzani headed the Italian magazine for 28 years, shaping it into one of the most influential fashion titles in the world. Sozzani’s career unfurled at Condé Nast, as she started at Vogue Bambini in the Seventies, followed by women’s magazine Lei and men’s magazine Per Lui in the Eighties.

He pointed to her sense of humor and healthy distance from the industry. “She had a very transversal idea of life and would find the irony in vanity.” Continue reading

SIX FEET DEEP FASHION DESIGNERS

pafweeksNext Januray, six new fashion designers have been invited to the next edition of the Paris Haute Couture Week. Paris Fashion Week will host no less than six new names: Antonio Grimaldi, Galia Lahav, Georges Hobeika, Hyun Mi Nielsen, Maison Rabih Kayrouz and Xuan.

The Chambre Syndicale has also re-invited the members hosted in previous sessions: Aouadi, Francesco Scognamiglio, Guo Pei, Iris Van Herpen, Julien Fournié, Ralph & Russo, Schiaparelli, Ulyana Sergeenko, Vetements, Yuima Nakazato and Zuhair Murad.

The new foreign labels will benefit from a great deal of media exposure, offering a big boost to these  couturiers comprising both well-established names and emerging designers.

The most important is to find young talents and to support them. If you really want to boost your presentation, you have just to invite the group Canal-Luxe which represents today 21 millions of readers.

SUPER SATURDAY

fournieThe weekend wasn’t quite the knockout retailers hoped for because of frigid weather, snow and ice storms in the country. The key question was whether the last-minute rush over the weekend will be enough for stores to hit their holiday targets of 3 to 4 percent growth  and at what price to margins those sales will come.

Saturday was actually pretty busy. It was almost the equivalent to last year’s final Saturday. Although we were slightly behind in traffic, the malls had been lagging, mostly because the holiday selling season has been spread out, beginning before Black Friday and extending out due to the extra shopping weekend this year.

Typically for Black Friday, 50 percent off is almost always planned promotions. This past weekend, maybe a few were planned promotions. I would venture that because promotions were deeper, the management teams did not think this was a successful holiday. Continue reading

SANTA WATCH

canal2Each year at Christmas the same question comes back: what am I going to offer to my love?

Many ideas come to my mind. But this year I would like something special and different. I look for a present which beats regularly like my heart. What would be more natural than a watch which beats like a heart. Now my trouble is to find the right one. The choice is vast.

Now the question is: how to choose a true watchmaker to whom I can trust to give my heart. It is difficult to find a watch for a woman. Today, many girls love wearing men’s watch just to say: I have a man at home. The society is changing and the rules of consumption are changing as well. Continue reading