LENNY NIEMEYER SAO PAULO

LENNYMEUYERBrazilian brand Lenny Niemeyer confirmed the trend with his low-cut one pieces featuring horizontal muticolored stripes in greens, blues and oranges. Rope detailing at the straps added a fun nautical twist to the look. “I create glamorous looks with distinctive elements”, says Lenny. “I design for the independent, chic woman and my suits are meant to highlight their femininity, beauty and charm.”

Lenny Niemeyer arrived in Rio de Janeiro, after moving from her childhood home in Sao Paulo. As she began her search for sophisticated bikinis with the sensual allure of a Carioca, she ended up finding a new talent. Lenny gave up trying to find bikinis that suited her style and took up a new career.

She hired a seamstress and with small amounts of fabric she started to Continue reading

VICTOR & ROLF

CANAL2Since their return to Haute Couture, the designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have presented a pink, plastic and black pebble-esque fabric collection. To add to their list of eccentric couture themes, the duo came up with a blooming flower garden this season. Imagine a gorgeous garden drenched with color from early Spring to the first frost of Autumn. A daydream, you say?

Among the twenty dresses the designers produced, they increasingly added color to a base print of an ink blue flower outline. Those who recall the pairs’ tulle topiary ready-to-wear show could see this couture collection as a high-end extrapolation of that same concept.

Because flowers bloom at varying times of the year, and some plants are annual, dying each Winter, the design of flower gardens take into consideration a sequence of bloom and even of consistent color combinations, through varying seasons.

Dress came embellished with giant stalks of wheat and sometimes veiled in outsized floral lace or whorls of paper flowers. It is fashion Haute couture or not ? Continue reading

MARCO DE VINCENZO

Marco de Vincenzo, Ready to Wear Collection, Spring Summer 2015 in Milan“Only in Italy could the silken fringes that were once associated with flapper girls in the Twenties seem so sophisticated. Marco de Vincenzo is a master of embellishment – especially for a relatively young designer. The exceptional skills at what he himself calls “controlled complication” brought him to the attention of Fendi, which offers support through its parent group LVMH.

As a designer he also seems intensely Italian in his desire to elaborate clothes in an artistic way, with the silken threads morphing into embroidered flowers. All that in one outfit? This compression is Marco de Vincenzo’s exceptional skill, so that a coat might have squares with woven strips of python and a skirt be interwoven with chiffon.

Each outfit would require a paragraph to describe, yet the clothes seemed so simple. And that is the originality and the strength of the Marco story.” Continue reading

THE VIRGIN SIBLING

Sibling Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2015 in New York

Sibling’s irreverent signature is even made sweeter this Spring/Summer 15 remembering “candy” sweet and bringing joyce on the catwalk. The collection served the 80’s optimism of New York City through the lenses of photographer Amy Arbus.

The spirit of dress and undress, in bed and out-of-bed that resonates deeply in Maripol’s work was keenly felt in the collection. Madge’s legendary “Like A Virgin” wedding dress was heavily referenced in the centre pieces of the collection.

Sibling’s theatrical treatment is unparalleled and, more impressively, the trio — Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCree — achieved high impact purely on the basis of their craftsmanship, proving season after season that resource is better spent on product than ostentatious presentation, especially among emerging brands.

LADIES LEATHER FASHION

 

BALMAIN2What is the common point between the fall-winter ready-to-wear collections for 2014-2015 from Anthony Vaccarello, Balenciaga, Balmain, Blumarine, Cedric Charlier, DKNY, Gucci, Guy Laroche, Jason Wu, Lanvin and Moschino ? All these brands rely on leather. On perfectos, dresses, skirts, belts, pants, chest protectors, Teddys, the skin is everywhere. It is used in super-soft variations, or can be rigid and sculptural. Leather means a return to natural materials and to manual labor from the past. It is combined with other materials such as fur, wool, big zips, cotton, cashmere and velvet.

On the whole, for this season, those designers have ignored print, except some Continue reading

HERMES DARES NADEGE VANHEE

nadegeNadège Vanhee is 36 years old. Famous both for her discretion, her talent and her efficiency, she seems to be the right person for that job.

She has been the Artistic designer for The Row, a label created by the Olsen Sisters. She worked as senior designer with Phebee Philo at Celine’s. Graduated in 2003 from the Antwerp Academy, she started her career at the famous belgian luggage brandname Delvaux and then at Martin Margiela’s in Paris.

Though the rumors no parties has confirmed her nomination but from our sources we know that it would be her.

SAINT LAURENT

1b-200x300 Mr. Slimane, I hated being sit on the ground like a student, and you know why? Just because I have 55 years old,  when we noticed that Mr Pinault sat also on the floor we remained silent and shut up. The designer gives us his vision on California in the 1970s, at the highlight of the anti-war movement.  He mixes all the influences; Hippy, Flower Power, Folk Music, Rock, Surf Culture, and war veterans to create one of the most diverse and sartorially disruptive moments in recent history.

Leather cow patchwork poncho, Baja hoodie or pony skin cape. There were perfectos, intricately embellished hippy vests and studded suede jackets.

Then he added the essential accessories such as neck scarves, silver jewelry. He mixed western gringos and flower power culture; very difficult to understand any way. Oh, by the way I could not see anything as the spotlights were in my face.

DIOR FOR DEVOTED CLIENTS

DIOR1BThe Designer Kris Van Assche gets points for coming up with a rather original interpretation of the used and abused style. The introduction of Breton-esque bumble bee striped tank tops first worn like vest with the suits and then later, on their own, and paired with comfy denim jeans.

Showing suits, jeans, and blazers covered in hand written musing of Mr. Christian Dior. It was featured on short sleeve shirts, denim jackets, and most captivating on cropped sweatshirts worn over shirts that peeked out from above and below. Van Assche once again produced a surprisingly novel offering for the devoted Dior customer, very devoted indeed.