ROLEX AND THE OTHERS

According to the French Competition Authority, Rolex has been ordered to pay 91.6 million euros (around 87 million francs at current prices) for prohibiting its authorized distributors from selling the watches online for more than ten years.

In a press release published Tuesday, the Competition Authority fined Rolex France, Rolex Holding SA, the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, the owner of the company (financially committed to the Aventinus Foundation, owner of Le Temps SA), as well as Rolex SA, for its capitalistic, organizational, and legal links. The fine is “accompanied by a communication and publication injunction”.

According to several sources, the crown brand is the most important player in the French market due to its notoriety and market share. Since the start of the year, France has been the eighth destination for Swiss watches, according to data from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH). Continue reading

THE THEATER OF FASHION

Despite her formidable workload as artistic director of Dior’s women’s collections, putting 200 small hands to work on her intimate collections, Maria Grazia Chiuri is working on a personal project to restore a historic theater in her hometown of Rome. She has to find something to do to retire.

The Teatro della Cometa, or Comet Theater, became dark as the black of his eyes and the designer purchased the 250-seat horseshoe-shaped hall in order to give it a second life. Thank you lord for your help.

An important part of Rome’s history, she called the investment “something to give back to my city, which I really love and also because it is a creative project.” She who spent most of her life in France and Caribbean.

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CHLOE AFTER AN ITALIAN A FRENCH MAN

Laurent Malecaze, chief executive officer of Dunhill since January 2022, is to take the management helm of Chloe.

As the architect of the Paris fashion house’s new business model based on purpose, sustainability and accountability, he succeeds Riccardo Bellini.

Chloé parent Richemont said Bellini's decision was made in full collaboration with the group to allow proper completion of his mission; and a smooth transition.

In his four years as president and CEO, the Italian executive recruited Gabriela Hearst to fast-track Chloé’s eco ambitions to B Corp status. He also found Hearst’s successor, Chemena Kamali, who is to stage her first fashion show during Paris Fashion Week next February. During Bellini’s tenure, Chloé grew both financially and creatively, according to Richemont.

MARGIELA EX NIHILO

A magical breath for a playful demonstration, in a balance which emerges at the same time as an evolution which is shaped by its history. Here is a true designer, and who will remain so, John Galliano, the emperor of couture seduces us. Spotlight on clothing, which is not just a consumer product valid for one season, but which is a story, a life, an evolution, and above all a redemption.

A collection which is the most beautiful, the most snobbish, the most intellectual, the most radical, the most influential, the most wearable too, but above all the most desirable… A radicality which recalls that of the writer Jack Kerouac, and ultimately, the ex-fashion pariah who goes to Margiela for a transplant which is taken, leaving in the process the questions left hanging by these gentlemen of the family, of the fashion institutions.

A fan of recovery, DIY and recycling, well before his time, we remember his collection at Dior and the terribly ingenious garbage bags. It’s bluffing, often astonishing, and there is humor, Dadaism in the diversions, the second-hand clothing becomes “Arty”, poetic too, imbued with experience and re-mastering with a mastery of technique which reveals itself under our eyes.

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BULGARI AND PRADA ACTRESS

Bulgari’s Christmas campaign embraces the past, present and future. If you don’t recognize Anne Hathaway, it’s normal, botox has been there.

Bulgari presents its holiday campaign and new collection, featuring the brand’s global ambassador our Devil Wears Parada actress.

In the campaign, Bulgari’s jewelry, watches, accessories and fragrances are influenced by iconic Roman art, history, jewelry, and architecture, including the Colosseum, imperial coins, beautiful mosaics, and much more.

The latest collection, Cabochon, celebrates the art of ancient silversmithing traditions from ancient Roman times. Blending the brand’s heritage with contemporary silhouettes, the Cabochon pendant and ring are inspired by the Cabochon cut. The new collection creates “a drop of pure molten gold,” perfect for the magical festivities to come.

BALENCIAGA AND L.A

Luxury brands now use almost every corner of Los Angeles for their runways, from Chanel at Paramount Studios to Burberry at the Griffith Observatory, Saint Laurent on the beach in Malibu to Gucci on Hollywood Boulevard. However, one truly iconic spot remained.

It’s like our Eiffel Tower an L.A. native said of seeing the 100-year-old Hollywood sign used as the backdrop for the fall 2024 Balenciaga show Saturday afternoon in Los Angeles.

Demna’s latest extravaganza was held on Windsor Street, which offers perhaps the best view of the landmark in the city. It was quite a culture shock to see the old monied neighborhood of Windsor Square, home to Gettys, Chandlers and the L.A. mayor’s residence, stormed by the all-black-clad, Spandex bodysuit-boot wearing, grill-sporting, avant-garde fashion set.

As Nicole Kidman deadpanned, posing in a knockout off-shoulder tweed couture coat dress that made her the day’s best dressed, Kim Kardashian, Kendall Jenner, François-Henri Pinault, Salma Hayek, and newly minted brand ambassador Nicole Kidman attended her first Balenciaga show on the street. Continue reading

DIS MOI CÉLINE

It is not easy to forget that Celine canceled her spring 2024 show after a teenager was killed by police in Paris.

Hedi Slimane, Celine’s artistic director and image director, returned to the venue “La Gaité Lyrique” the same month to film his models in tight leather pants and sparkly shirts or jackets as if they were rock stars of yore storming through a golden corridor.

Featuring ballet dancer Laurids Seidel leaping up a storm at the Opéra de Monte-Carlo, as well as a caped figure rotating atop Le Grand Rex cinema and concert venue in Paris, rebranded with Celine logos.

With black suits, white shirts, and skinny ties Slimane pioneered at Dior Homme earlier in his career, the collection felt like the greatest hits of one of the most influential menswear designers of the new millennium.

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LUXURY AND SUPERFAKE

Fashionphile’s “master” authenticators undergo more than 8,000 hours of rigorous training to weed out designer fakes at the luxe online marketplace. Name of school The RealReal

For example, trainees learn quickly to spot an error in the date format on a Louis Vuitton bag or the metal alloy makeup of a Cartier watch.

A $25k Hermès Birkin bag smells good, and its Barenia leather feels good, but the retailer’s first round of checks is conducted by artificial intelligence, which is trained on 30 million images to detect nearly imperceptible differences in stitching and hardware placement.

Additionally, an algorithm calculates a product’s risk based on everything from the consignor’s selling history to its popularity on the black market. But counterfeiting is making progress every day, who will win this race for cheap luxury?

A NEW CEO IN STELLA

Amandine Ohayon has been appointed CEO of Stella McCartney. She will be based in London and will replace Gabriele Maggio, who joined the company four years ago and will leave next month to pursue other opportunities, according to an anonymous source he will join the LVMH group.

Amandine was most recently CEO of Pronovias and has spent much of her career in the beauty industry, working with brands such as YSL Beauty and Armani Beauty.

In her new role at Stella McCartney, she will help elevate the house and accelerate its development based on its long-standing commitment to sustainable fashion, with a very corporate message.

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KIM KARDASHIAN NAMED MEN OF THE YEAR

The reality TV star turned into a businesswoman has been selected in GQ magazine’s prestigious “Tycoon of the Year” category.

FASHION RETAIL

The Fashion brands accounted for more than 40 percent of retail floor space leased across Europe. Other brands fast opening doors across the region include the French down-jacket retailer JOTT (Just Over the Top) and the U.S. sportswear retailer Lids.

Fashion also accounted for the largest share of leases for bigger spaces larger than 11,000 square feet in the period. While core retail sectors continue to dominate transactional activity, emerging trends are bringing new brands into the marketplace.

Health and beauty operators, particularly premium brands, were also highly acquisitive in the first half of 2023 with the volume of space transacted almost twice that of the corresponding period last year. Jo Malone, Aesop, Freshly Cosmetics, MAC and Space NK have been particularly active.

ZARA WILL SAVE THE PLANET

Zara parent company Inditex has committed to purchasing €70 million worth of textile-to-textile recycled polyester material from Ambercycle. By launching items 50% made with the Zara Athleticz range, the brand’s technical sportswear range for men is saving the planet.

A fundraising of $21.6 million in January 2022, with other fast fashion players, including H&M, Jack; Jones and Vero Moda, parent company Bestseller, and Zalando, as well as investment funds. Inditex also owns, among others, the brands Berhska, Massimo Dutti and Pull&Bear.

This action will help the group achieve its nebulous objective of using 25% of its textile fibers from new generation materials by 2030. Zara dressed us in designer copies, now you will also be dressed with recycled materials with prices which would always be higher. Welcome to the world of Fast Fashion. But this is the result of the appearance of the giant Shein on the market.

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KERING SLOW DOWN

According to Kering’s third quarter sales figures, the group’s turnover fell by 13% at published exchange rates and by 9% on an underlying basis, to 4.46 billion euros.

Kering’s revenue is in line with analysts’ estimates, most of whom had already lowered their expectations for the quarter and their stock price targets.

Gucci, Kering’s largest brand, reported revenue of €2.22 billion, down 14% on a reported basis and 7% on an underlying basis. Bottega fell 13 percent and Yves Saint Laurent 16 percent.

François-Henri Pinault, said that beyond the difficult macroeconomic conditions and the slowdown in demand in the luxury industry, “our third quarter turnover reflects the impact of our decision to further raise our brands and our distribution”.

“Managing our homes in the current market environment and regaining our position and influence” with the organization put in place by Kering in July. Following the acquisition of Creed last week, one of the world’s most distinguished fine fragrance houses has joined our family, propelling our beauty ambitions.

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CEO MONTBLANC EXIT

Montblanc’s CEO since 2016 Nicolas Baretzki will leave the Hamburg luxury house. He has had a turbulent tenure at Montblanc, part of Swiss luxury group Compagnie Financière Richemont, parent company of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Chloé, and Dunhill.

In March 2021, he hired veteran leather goods designer Marco Tomasetta to accelerate Montblanc’s transformation into a “luxury house with a professional lifestyle.” Continue reading

CALVIN KLEIN GRABS A ZARA GIRL

Calvin Klein has named Eva Vidal Dans as chief product officer she succeeds Jacob Jordan who had been global chief merchant and product strategist since October, 2020, and left in May.

Eva Vidal Dans is a seasoned merchandising and product executive whose creativity, inspiration leadership style and deep fashion expertise will help strengthen and grow Calvin Klein's product offering.

Dans was most recently with Inditex, where she led the product strategy for the Zara Group and its Sustainability Innovation Hub. Earlier, she oversaw the design, sourcing and product divisions, where she led a team of 100 and built successful product strategies for Zara’s more than 200 commercial markets.