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SACAI AND JONES IN DIOR RESTAURANT

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The Dior men’s artistic director tapped Sacai designer Chitose Abe to work on a capsule line of 57 items that will bear a logo fusing the identities of both labels, with the Sacai name written inside the “i” in Dior a first for the French fashion house. The collection, dropping in November, is sure to be one of the most anticipated this year.

Abe is part of a loose collective that includes Jones, Virgil Abloh, Matthew Williams and Yoon Ahn who are responsible for transforming streetwear into a luxury category.

Both Abe and Jones are serial collaborators. Sacai has partnered with brands ranging from sportswear behemoth Nike to emerging designers like Tomo Koizumi, but Abe said it was important that the balance of power should be equitable.

“Dior is a very respected heritage brand which I’ve admired ever since I decided to become a designer, so it’s a huge honor. It’s also a brand that has historically demonstrated the importance of innovation, but I’m sure that for a maison like this, the decision to add another brand name to its own is not taken lightly. Continue reading →

FERRARI DIVERSIFICATION

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In an exclusive preview, creative director Rocco Iannone and chief brand diversification officer Nicola Boari mapped out their vision and strategy as Ferrari prepares to hold its first luxury fashion show on Sunday.

Ferrari is mythical, said the brand diversification creative director. Ferrari’s community recognizes itself in a series of values that is unique to the label and that need to be understood to be translated into fashion.

First runway fashion show in Maranello, at the headquarters of the storied luxury sports car maker. Iannone, who was tapped to the role in November 2019, will present the brand’s fashion manifesto with a collection for men, women and children. We will see.

VUITTON DANS QUEL MONDE ?

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Nicolas Ghesquière will unveil Louis Vuitton’s cruise 2022 collection with a livestream scheduled for June 15 at 2 p.m.

Perhaps far from the most famous Parisian monuments, the Expiatory Chapel allows us to explore one of the darkest facets of Paris: the French Revolution and the Terror. Built on the very spot where Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette were buried, it is one of the most secret monuments of the capital. Hotel Cheval should be a good idea.

The French luxury brand is keeping the location and other details under wraps, although it is understood the collection has already been paraded and filmed somewhere in the vicinity of Paris. The content will be viewable on Louisvuitton.com and its main social media. Continue reading →

YANA BESFAMILNAYA

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Nothing is constant in this world. Everything changes, evolves and transforms each day and everyday. Transformation is everything and everything is transformation. Take a risk and transform, invent, switch looks, play fashion, be badass, make a statement and be sexy.

“I started designing kids clothes when my first child Sophia was born and became a designer. Now looking back into the past, I realize that this was not the beginning. As a child I used to draw models in beautiful dresses in cla “I started designing kids clothes when my first child Sophia was born and became a designer.

Now looking back into the past, I realize that this was not the beginning. As a child I used to draw models in beautiful dresses in classes. Fashion design was always my passion” says Yana Besfamilnaya, the founder and designer. She started with local sewing courses, design courses then graduated Central Saint-Martin’s and NABA Milan fashion courses and ran her first womenswear collection. This was followed with a lot of self-seeking, great amount of hand embroidery, couture design and hard working on searching of the brand identity. Continue reading →

FOCUS ON 3 ANDAM PRIZE COMPETITORS

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To my opinion, there are only 3 out of 14th competitors to eventually win the ANDAM Grand Prize, The winner will receive 300,000 euros and a year of coaching from Balenciaga’s chief executive officer Cédric Charbit who is  the president of the jury this year. You will more information on the 3 finalists to be followed hereafter

GMBH

Berlin is known for its free and uninhibited underground parties. It is in the clubs of this temple of techno that the founders of GmbH, Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, meet.

Serhat Işık and Benjamin A. Huseby established the Berlin-based label GmbH in 2016, quickly gaining a reputation for sustainable practices and an aesthetic that references underground club culture, migration, politics, queerness and more. Their gender-fluid collections are known for innovative tailoring, streetwear cool and subversive touches, with their fall 2021 collection boasting sensual off-the-shoulder coats and jackets worn by men.

Last month, Işık and Huseby were named creative directors of Trussardi and will present their first Fall collection on 2022.

Işık is a first-generation German of Turkish descent and Huseby, of Norwegian-Pakistani heritage, grew up in Norway. Cultural mixes and a sense of otherness have informed GmbH, and the city and cultural scene of Berlin have also shaped their approach. Last year GmbH was a finalist for the Woolmark Prize. Continue reading →

SAMARITAINE ET CHEVAGE BLANC

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It turns out the reopening of La Samaritaine remains a moving target. Having announced that the Right Bank department store would open its doors on June 19, following a 750-million-euro refurbishment, luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said on Tuesday the reopening would finally take place on June 22 or 23, due to internal scheduling conflicts. Continue reading →

COURRÈGES BACK IN 1986

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Courrèges is marking its return to men’s collections, joining the official calendar of the next edition of Paris Fashion Week for men’s wear.

Under new artistic director Nicolas Di Felice, the brand will present a dedicated men’s in a show without guests, due to be unveiled online on June 23 at 2:30 p.m. CET.

Among the returning brands are Dunhill, Facetasm and Gamut, according to the provisional calendar published on Friday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, French fashion’s organizing body. The men’s shows, debuting collections for spring 2022, are scheduled for June 22 to 27.

As France progressively lifts pandemic-related restrictions, the men’s wear week has been cleared for physical shows and presentations, although the calendar did not specify the format of each show.

RATS ARED DESERTING THE FASHION SHIP

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Saint Laurent intends to stage a physical fashion show in Venice in July, featuring an installation by artist Doug Aitken commissioned by the label’s creative director Anthony Vaccarello.

Known for his site-specific installations and happenings, Aitken won the International Prize at the Venice Biennale in 1999 for his hypnotic video installation Electric Earth, which explored a black man’s journey though the contemporary American landscape.

The timing would suggest that it will be a men’s collection. In recent years, Saint Laurent has skipped Paris Men’s Fashion Week, instead staging annual itinerant shows in New York City and Malibu.

The brand, owned by luxury conglomerate Kering, was the first to announce last year that it would drop out of Paris Fashion Week .It’s like rats deserting a sinking ship. Continue reading →

MILAN MEN’S FASHION WEEK

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Milan Fashion Week is expected to make a major comeback with a rich schedule of physical events in September only. For the time being, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro and Giorgio Armani are the only brands hosting physical runway shows during the week, on June 19, 20 and 21, respectively.

The week, which will involve a total of 63 brands, will also see the official debut of Glenn Martens as creative director of the Diesel label, as well as the launch of a capsule designed by Andrea Pompilio for casualwear brand Harmont & Blaine.

Ermenegildo Zegna will kick off the week with a digital event on June 18 and, among others, Fendi and Prada will also continue to opt for the digital format, scheduled on June 19 and 20, respectively.

TRUSSARDI NEW DIRECTION

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Trussardi the Milan-based company has appointed Serhat Işık and Benjamin A. Huseby as new creative directors of the brand, tasked with overseeing all aspects of design, image and branding. Their first collection for Trussardi will bow for fall 2022.

Işık and Huseby are known for their own label, the Berlin-based GmbH, launched in 2016, and which they plan to continue to design.

Işık is a first-generation German of Turkish descent and Huseby, of Norwegian-Pakistani heritage, grew up in Norway. Işık, who had been teaching fashion at the university in Berlin, was making collections on a noncommercial basis. Huseby had been a photographer and artist, who as a child sketched fashion looks and made his own clothes as a teenager. Cultural mixes and a sense of otherness have informed GmbH, and the city and cultural scene of Berlin have also shaped their approach. Continue reading →

RICHEMONT AND KERING

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With a surge in fourth-quarter sales and Compagnie Financière Richemont in recovery post-pandemic, the last thing on Johann Rupert’s mind is selling the company he founded more than 30 years ago.

Rupert, chairman, founder and shareholder of reference, said the group has invested and reaped far too many rewards for the company to sell or merge now with a competitor. If that happened, he said, then all of the shareholders would suffer.

Profits climbed 38 percent to 1.29 billion euros, with the company confirming a “strong start” into the new financial year, “with accelerating trends across all business areas. Continue reading →

DIOR 2022 BY KIM

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Kim Jones for his resort collection, skipped forward a decade to Dior’s successor Marc Bohan, whose graphic patterns inspired the laid-back, sporty lineup.

Roomy pants that pooled around the ankles anchored most of the looks, from relaxed tailoring in a warm palette of chocolate, forest green, caramel and dusty pink, to casual pieces in tactile materials.

Subtle variations on the Dior Oblique pattern, perhaps Bohan’s most lasting contribution to the house’s visual identity. But the former Dior designer’s lesser-known logos also provided fodder for inspiration: the CD initials, shaped like a heart, came embroidered on jackets and shirts.

As the world emerges from the coronavirus pandemic, that pragmatic approach felt both grounded and optimistic: packing a suitcase never felt so good.

FRANCOIS PINAULT’S MUSEUM

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More than 20 years after first floating the idea of creating an art institution in Paris, billionaire François Pinault will finally open the doors of his private museum to the public on Saturday. The Bourse de Commerce is the latest venue to house the Pinault Collection, after the Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana in Venice, Italy.

The museum is housed in a historic building in central Paris that can trace its roots back to the 16th century. At one point it served as a grain exchange, with an imposing circular floor that is the centerpiece of a renovation led by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, who has erected a concrete cylinder in the central rotunda.

Project began in 2017 and was completed in March 2020, the new museum features more than 75,000 square feet of exhibition space, in addition to a restaurant, the Halle aux grains, run by award-winning chefs Michel and Sébastien Bras. Continue reading →

IT BAG FROM OLYMPIA

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Burberry is banking on the Olympia bag, with a new star-studded campaign and global pop-up concept. The leather shoulder bag, known for its crescent moon shape and minimalist flair, was introduced on the brand’s fall 2020 runway and has been making appearances in Burberry collections ever since. Continue reading →

SORAYA THE EMPIRE OF PERCEPTION

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I like the memory of this time when the women in bikini surveyed the beaches. We enjoyed then without lie and without anxiety of this so soft vision, that the loving sky caressing their spine allowed to look with pleasure these pieces of fabrics which was masking everything and hiding nothing.

Soraya is a beautiful name for a princess. Her name in Persia means “the beauty of the stars” and whispers to us the charm of Romy in the movie “La Piscine”, as well as the loincloth that “La Pérouse”, in the description of his travels, designates more widely as “a cloth which serves to wrap the body of a Vahiné”. Flaubert also describes, in his work, the subtle envelope used by the simple-hearted African women just in front of Kilimanjaro and its eternal snows. Continue reading →

HEARST AND THE EARTH

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I wanna see bags and dresses, not bees reads one comment on Chloé’s Instagram account, which was recently scrubbed clean to make way for a radical visual narrative, so far focused on insects, plants, fruits and the occasional freckled nose.

To be sure, some of the French brand’s 9.5 million followers on the photo-sharing platform wondered if its account had been hacked, with users describing the nature closeups as super strange, stupid or weird.

Over Zoom on Friday, Chloé’s creative director Gabriela Hearst cited a deep and ambitious reason: A wish to rewire people’s brains and reconnect them to all the things the planet gives us.

It’s healing, she said. I feel that it’s doing something we never thought we could do on social media. It does have this healing vision for the eyes, as we go through the journey together of understanding where things come from. Continue reading →

GUCCI NEXT SHOW L.A

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Michele will present his next collection for Gucci with an in-person fashion show in Los Angeles on Nov. 3. The show will coincide with the occasion of the 10th LACMA Art+Film Gala, taking place on Nov. 6, for which Gucci is the founding and presenting sponsor.

Michele, however, has now changed the pace of Gucci's collections. In 2020, five years after his debut at the fashion house, in the midst of the global pandemic, the designer decided to abandon what he has called “the worn-out ritual of seasonalities and shows to regain a new cadence, closer to my expressive call. We will meet just twice a year, to share the chapters of a new story.” He conceived new names for the collections, inspired by the music world.

After Epilogue, the conclusive chapter of Michele's previous narrative, presented in July last year during Milan Digital Fashion Week, Michele directed with Gus Van Sant a series of seven episodes for his collection “Ouverture of Something That Never Ended” shown in November 2020, tapping the likes of Billie Eilish, Harry Styles and Florence Welch, among others.

On the occasion, the designer told that he felt “free,” giving “a natural rhythm” to the collections. “Of course, there is more responsibility in this self-pacing, and I want to be attentive to the company and position the brand in a respectful way. Continue reading →

VANS DIED AT 90

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Paul Van Doren has died at age 90. Born in Depression-era Randolph, Mass., he moved to sunny Southern California in the 1960s, where he built a checkerboard shoe empire that harnessed the power of skate and surf culture to become a global streetwear player with a little help from the cult Hollywood film “Fast Times at Ridgemont High and actor Sean Penn, who wore the classic Vans checkerboard slip-on sneaker on-screen and sent its popularity soaring. Continue reading →

GUCCI A FAMILY SAGA

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Gucci marks its centenary in 2021, passing through family feuds, take-over attempts, a near-bankruptcy, a public listing, storybook turnarounds and even a murder which has sparked the Ridley Scott film “House of Gucci” Just like the long-lived mythological phoenix, Gucci has cyclically regenerated, reaching its centenary in 2021.

Guccio Gucci, who in 1897 found work at London’s prestigious Savoy Hotel as a bellboy. Famously, the tale goes that he was inspired to create his company by the luxurious suitcases and trunks carried by the aristocrats staying at the hotel. In 1921, Gucci’s first stores opened in Florence, where he founded the company. The boutique in Rome’s luxury shopping street Via Condotti opened in 1938.

As a result of a League of Nations embargo against Italy, Gucci he found alternatives to imported leather and other materials in the 1935-1936 period, developing a specially woven hemp from Naples, printed with the first signature print. Continue reading →

UMOJA SNIKER

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The young brand Umòja is launching Mmea, a sneaker designed between France, Burkina Faso and Portugal, featuring traditional know-how.

Combining traditional know-how and innovative raw materials, Lancine Koulibaly and Dieuveil Ngoubou, founders of the brand have been thinking about creating a shoe that is “100% traceable, from the lace to the eyelet” since 2018. The two collaborators then looked for partners capable of designing all the elements of a shoe from eco-friendly materials.

In 2021, the results are in: the Mmea shoe, which means plant in the Swahili language, is composed of an upper made of organic raw cotton, hand-woven in Burkina Faso. The outsole is made of hevea milk, designed by a Lyon-based company that has also developed hevea foam reinforcements for Umòja. The midsole, the reinforcements and the heel are made of hemp fiber and come from Rouen.

Finally, the braids and laces are made of linen and everything is assembled in Portugal with a natural latex glue. According to Lancine Koulibaly, the shoe can go into industrial compost. Continue reading →