From the rue Vivienne to Herculaneum, the main representative of neoclassical has raised this precision craft to a degree of unprecedented excellence between antique and baroque, like an immemorial style that I would call “the true style” . It is the desire for a return to the roots, which has its origin in the epistemology architect of fashion as Robert Adam, the duo Percier and Fontaine and as sculptors Antonio Canova and Bertel Thorvaldsen. Christophe Josse prints his mark on the amphiteatre de la mode.

Christophe Josse or the story of a passion, he began at Louis Féraud for which he was the assistant during three years. This experience makes him want to continue this job. Very shy, he refuses every interview, but no matter, the few people ever requested. Continue reading →

The shapes were modern based on 181 years of Hermès savoir-faire and 30 years of Nichanian without experience from the School of Chambre Syndicale. So yes there was a tracksuit, but you couldn’t call it sportswear unless your sport of choice is looking like the ultimately understated contemporary man of leisure; the parisian “bobo”.

Cut, like much of the outerwear in this collection, in étrivière lambskin, almost black but with a slight teal hue, and featuring the same zippered detail at the cuffed hem that ran through many of the pants in this collection, it was outrageously neutral in its simpleness. The H-fronted sports sandal below it told you where it was from, if you didn’t have the eye to know already. There were some ridiculously difficult to achieve T-shirts, pants, and a knit cardigan with a front panel in four-color lines of water snake: again the straightforwardness of the silhouette was belied by the technique of the garment. And so it went.

Bags included what looked like an oversized Birkin in blue with gently off-color spray details and versions of the Plume in the same colorway, plus crocodile. Continue reading →

As Virgil Abloh took his bow after his debut men’s wear show for Louis Vuitton, he embraced his mentor, Kanye West, and the two men openly wept tears of joy.
The designer from Rockford, Ill., who four years ago launched his streetwear label Off-White with the aim of revolutionizing high fashion, had a theory about what it meant for him to reach the top rungs of the industry.

The clothes themselves signaled the dawning of a new era. Neither pure streetwear, nor straightforward luxury, they sat somewhere in between, with all the trial and error that comes with mapping new territory.

In a preview at the Louis Vuitton studio, Abloh said he wanted to start with a blank slate. His color scheme was based on white light hitting a prism and separating into a spectrum of hues, with shades ranging from off-white (naturellement) to the multicolored palette of “The Wizard of Oz.”

Abloh likened himself to the character played by Judy Garland, the “farm girl from the Midwest transported to Oz, a fairy-tale land where she experiences things beyond the reach of her imagination.” Along his yellow brick road, he found transfigured basics: a jacket made of white mink; a camel double-faced cashmere hoodie, and a tie-dye T-shirt in white leather. Continue reading →

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Clare Waight Keller is to dedicate the Givenchy Fall 2018 couture show in Paris on July 1 to house founder Hubert de Givenchy, who died in March at age 91.

Givenchy said the collection would be “an homage to his iconic creations, technique and personal lexicon” and a “celebration of his timeless elegance and grace, imbued with Waight Keller’s fresh take on the Givenchy spirit.” Continue reading →

For his latest Milan tour, Alessandro Sartori at sunset on Friday led the fashion crowd to the Palazzo Mondadori, a monumental Oscar Niemeyer-designed structure rising out of a flat landscape and framed by a series of concrete arches.

Set in a nature reserve on the edge of the Idroscalo Lake, the spectacular waterside building combining concrete and stone was commissioned in 1968, the same year in which Zegna’s ready-to-wear line was launched. And Sartori saw it as the perfect architectural incarnation of the design principles of his spring collection: “graphic and voluminous, but without weight.”

In his quest for weightlessness, Alessandro Sartori in his development of an athletic sartorial journey experimented with performance fabrics to the lightest of nylons

A bridge stretching across the water, with schools of small fish darting through, had been transformed into a mirrored catwalk bordered with benches, giving guests the feeling of walking on water as they took to their seats. Continue reading →

Franck Sorbier, in his constant conceptual research on the future of Haute Couture and luxury, maintains his strategy in a post-apocalyptic area. By himself, he maintains the whole values of Haute Couture in this world, to keep the fundaments than others try to erase and to level down in order to be able to raise themselves by a mechanical effect.

We are not at the limit of poetry but we are in pure poetry; a fashion concept looking like a Manet or a Van Gogh. More specifically a moment to forget this world so unfair.

Beautiful memories are also the quintessence of fashion and as Camus used to say: “the way you name things can add to the misery of the world.”

THE NEXT ÉDITION AUTOMNE-HIVER 2018-2019. To book a ticket for Haute couture click here