LOUIS VUITTON 2022
Like a meteoric rise, it took him only a few years to conquer the fashion world, with exclusive collaborations with Nike, and … The consecration comes when he dies. Virgil Abloh brilliantly shook up the codes with his signature street style, while preserving the heritage and know-how of the French trunk maker.
In the front row to witness it all, Vuitton boss Bernard Arnault, and most of his children, along with the entire elite of black artists and musicians. Continue reading
EGONLAB 2022
It’s the beginning of Paris Fashion Week, with still a little parmesan sprinkled on my jacket, I fall from the style to the blonde Bimbos, so appreciated by the French luxury brands, who appreciate that they do not write anything at all. Graphic trend where cabalistic signs of Catholicism are printed to transmit us the word “the cross” but it was the banner in subliminal image, for a Devil at the beginning of the show.
Fashion should be a form of escape, not a form of imprisonment, the two designers told us. Its culture is the juxtaposition between masculine and feminine, modernity and historical know-how, romance and rebellion, sustainability and creativity.
You talk about religion and thinking it doesn’t imprison anyone is the message marketers give us to stigmatize and really (“Con Fu Cius. I’d make it shorter on its DNA “move on” and put your outrage back on the pissing machine. EGONLAB will probably have tomorrow the honors of Vogue, with this maxim “fun or interesting!”, as the English say when they do not like it at all. Welcome to Paris Fashion Week. Continue reading
LEON PASSED AWAY AT 73
Fashion journalist, New York Times bestselling author and former Vogue creative director and editor at large André Leon Talley has died at age 73, corona indeed.
Prior to the release of his 2020 memoir “In the Chiffon Trenches,” Talley told, “People have done things to me that I have forgiven them for. There are things in the book that you can’t imagine the racism, everything. You don’t even understand how much I’ve gone through.…”
He was best known for his time at Vogue where he was fashion director between 1983 and 1987, before becoming its creative director and later an editor at large. A front row fixture known for his flamboyant style and storytelling, Talley was a close confidant of Karl Lagerfeld,
Upon being notified as a recipient of the de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres of France in April 2021, Talley said, “Of all the education and experiences that I have had in this world, I think this represents a great deal to my race and my people. Continue reading
DAVID KOMA PRE-FALL 2022
LA PRADA FAMILIA 2022
Prada and the new fall-winter 2022 collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf “Si monster”, our favorite designer, the one who, at Dior, had raised the brand with brio! Day three of Milan Fashion Week, in the Fondazione Prada, for a fashion where leather and technical materials reign supreme, Waffen-SS style for trench coats with XXL shoulders.
Prada invited no less than a dozen movie stars to walk the runway! We could see Kyle MacLachlan, then Thomas Brodie-Sangster, Asa Butterfield, Jaden Michael, Damson Idris, Tom Mercier, Louis Partridge, Ashton Sanders, Filippo Scotti, but also Jeff Goldblum who closed the show. It was necessary to sublimate the pieces of clothing taken from the workers of Renault in 1960 with N.B.C. “Nuclear Biological Chemical” suits. For a collection, which bet on new trends, it is missed this year, because its flatness is absolute. Finally, the only interesting thing about this show is that it ended up stopping. When Ralf wants to be Nino, Continue reading
THE MAGNIFICENT NINO
Nino Cerruti died on Saturday at the age of 91 following complications from a surgery, Cerruti, who was born in Biella, one of Italy’s main textile hubs, was a key figure in the international fashion industry, well-respected and known for his elegance, kindness and courtesy.
The world looses a man of talent, an extraordinary designer, a visionary ahead of his time and a great mentor to whom many are indebted. His grandfather had founded a textile mill in Biella in 1881, the Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti. Drawing from his experience in producing excellent fabrics, Cerruti ventured into the production of clothing in the late 1950s.
Over the years, Cerruti offered women’s wear and men’s wear; the Cerruti 1881 diffusion line; a luxury ready-to-wear collection named Cerruti Arte; Cerruti Jeans; the Cerruti Brothers business collection for men as well as fragrances and accessories. Later the clothing lines were regrouped under the Cerruti 1881 name. Continue reading
BURBERRY PRE-FALL 2022
THOM BROWNE PRE FALL 2022
Thom Browne or the outward sign of inner wealth, for one of the most personal collections he has ever presented, bringing the public into the decor of his bedroom. With celadon green and azure blue floral wallpaper, the morning that promises to anyone who knows how to dream, mix of checks, plaids, intarsia to create images through the juxtaposition of hues and embroidery made without false note.
With her shimmering pastel sense of color, there is also an overcoat and pleated skirt that could nerf the Coco “Charnel” for a collection by an androgynous artist, which incenses my wandering mind. What a wonderful present that your poetry, from another time Sir, delivered in this sumptuous case, inaccessible and senseless to the uninitiated for an indefectible pleasure of the eye. Giving is a physical and psychic need, the adrenaline of a heart in search of the pleasure of sharing together the beauty of sewing. Thank you for that. Continue reading
A FAKE PRICE ADAM AND CREVE
French fashion competition ANDAM has created a special new prize worth 100,000 euros alongside its Grand Prize of 300,000 Euros. Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel fashion and president of Chanel SAS, who has been mentor of the ANDAM awards, since 2015, will offer one-year mentorships to the winner and the runner-up, coaching both on the creative and strategic dimensions of their startups.. Continue reading
ETRO PRE FALL 2022
Creative director Veronica Etro drew inspiration from the Nordic countries for her charming fall collection, which exudes a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere. Casual chic is back. Continue reading
CARDIN LOOKING AT THE SKY
Pierre Cardin will pay tribute to its founder at a fashion show event at Paris Fashion Week. Initially scheduled to take place one year after Pierre Cardin’s death, on December 29, 2021, the tribute show to the designer will finally take place on January 28. The show will feature the designer’s latest creations as well as a brand new collection.
For the occasion, the house has chosen the National Air and Space Museum. A place far from being insignificant in terms of the futuristic and experimental fashion of the designer. A few steps from Le Bourget airport, which has already gathered the fashion scene during the spring-summer 2022 show of Hermès a few months ago, it is easy to guess the references.
Pierre Cardin was happily dipping into the imagery of the space conquest for his creations, each more revolutionary than the other, until he made it his signature (we remember in particular his emblematic suits with futuristic metallic reflections of his spring-summer 1968 show). Continue reading
BALMAIN UNE MAISON DE POUPÉE
Very Bad taste for Barbie, Balmain’s creative director jumped at a chance to design a collection in collaboration with Barbie, allowing him to play with the famous doll on a grand scale and further his prioritization of female empowerment, diversity and inclusivity.
The limited-edition, 70-piece collection spanning from 195 euro T-shirts up to 29,990 euros for a couture-calibre evening gown is slated to drop on Jan. 13 at about 50 of its multibrand partners worldwide, with Neiman Marcus mounting a special pop-up in Dallas.
He describes the collection as a bridge between Barbie and the Balmain couture world, of a house born in Paris in 1945. Indeed, the budding designer found his grandmother much more accepting of his penchant for Barbies. Continue reading
FRENCH FASHION EXCLUSIVE
Will the apparent democratization of Paris Fashion Week prove a blip on the landscape, or a lasting trend?
Last Fall’s open-air shows by Rick Owens, Chloé and Saint Laurent drew curious onlookers, who were as thrilled by the spectacle as by sightings of celebrities like Blackpink’s Rosé and actress Demi Moore. Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli treated the streets of Paris like his runway, with models exiting the show venue to display his Spring 2022 creations in front of locals seated on restaurant terraces. Continue reading
ARMANI ANAGRAM DE YAMIA
The designer has decided to cancel both the Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani men’s Fall 2022 shows. This decision was made with great regret and following careful reflection in light of the worsening epidemiological situation, according to a statement from the Milan-based fashion house.
Armani has also opted to cancel his Privé haute couture Spring 2022 show planned for later this month in Paris. Haute Couture is slated to run from Jan. 24 to 27 in the French capital.
But no problem for the FHCM, Yamina couture will replace the Italian designer without any problem, will tell us the cropper analyst.
MAX MARA PRE-FALL 2022
NIKE BUYS THE START-UP RTFKT
After having imposed its brand on all sports fields, Nike is now interested in the virtual world. The launch of its virtual “Nikeland” in collaboration with the video game Roblox last month was a first step, the American equipment manufacturer is moving on to the second by buying the start-up RTFKT (“Artifact”), founded in 2020 by three associates including the French Benoît Pagotto.
The startup, which raised $8 million last May, designs limited-edition virtual wearables – including sneakers – in the form of NFTs (Non-Fungible Tokens) certified on the blockchain. It has achieved $100 million in revenue by 2021. Continue reading
JEAN ARNAULT PRINCE OF WATCHES
His LinkedIn profile lists Summer internships as an investment banking analyst at investment firm Morgan Stanley; as an engineering intern at Formula 1 team McLaren Racing; and as a sales Associate at Louis Vuitton.
He is Bernard Arnault’s youngest son, chairman and Chief Executive Officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has followed his four siblings and joined the family-controlled luxury goods giant. Jean Arnault quietly joined Louis Vuitton at the end of August as Marketing and Product Development Director, Watches.
He is based at Vuitton’s headquarters in Paris, as well as at La Fabrique du Temps near Geneva, Switzerland, one of Vuitton’s watch production sites. He reports to Catherine Lacaze, director of watches and jewelry at Vuitton.
In his new role with the watches team, he is involved across the value chain, including defining strategy, steering product development. Continue reading
CHANEL LIMITED NAIR
Chanel has named veteran Unilever executive Leena Nair its new London-based global chief executive officer, effective at the end of January 2022. The first female, first Asian, youngest ever CHRO of Unilever of the Unilever Leadership Executive Leena Nair (born 1969).
“This new partnership at the helm of the company, appointed by The Board of Chanel Limited (UK), will further ensure long-term success as a private company, believing in the freedom of creation, cultivating human potential and acting to have a positive impact in the world,” Chanel said in a brief statement.
Nair joins the French fashion and beauty giant from Unilever, where she had a 30-year career. She has served as the global consumer goods company’s chief human resources officer, and a member of the executive committee since 2016.
According to Chanel, Nair has “built a global reputation for progressive and human centered leadership, delivering significant business impact” and went on to describe her as a “highly respected as a visionary leader whose ability to champion a long-term, purpose-driven agenda is matched with a consistently strong record of business outcomes.” Continue reading
MOSHINO PRE-FALL 2022
I wanted to take…military codes and things that are so staid and formal, but do them in candy bonbon colors and make them feel more playful and surreal,” said designer Jeremy Scott.
Pop Art, Op Art and psychedelia; ’60s sci-fi dystopia and Sgt. Pepper band spirit all converged in Jeremy Scott’s color trip of a Moschino pre-fall 2022 men’s and women’s lineup.
I wanted to take those military codes and things that are so staid and formal, but do them in candy bonbon colors and make them feel more playful and surreal,” said Scott during a Zoom session from his Los Angeles home.
Two of his favorite films, “A Clockwork Orange” and “Blade Runner,” were also in the aesthetic blender, inspiring the bowler hats and the models’ exaggerated eye makeup. Continue reading
KIM AND DIOR HOMME
Prince of the Tailoring cut, adored by stars and millennials, Kim has always been immersed in his time. Following his insights, the British designer brilliantly took up the challenge of reinventing the Dior man, drawing followers to streetwear fashion with cutting-edge collaborations that proved to be masterful hits. Continue reading
MARIA AS A MUSEUM
Maria Grazia Chiuri will be honored alongside artist Judy Chicago and philanthropist Mellody Hobson by the National Museum of Women in the Arts, Dior revealed today.
The Washington, D.C., museum will hold its annual gala on April 8, 2022, where the house’s first woman designer will be recognized with the museum’s lifetime achievement award; Dior will also sponsor the black-tie affair as a happy coincidence.
The National Building Museum, as the NMWA is undergoing renovations until 2023. Hopefully the creator of the master of Grandville, will also do some work on her facade.
CHANEL AFTER CALENDAR
Chanel has responded to online controversy about its advent calendar after being mocked by influencers over the contents of the limited-edition box, resulting in a flood of negative comments on social media in the run-up to its annual Métiers d’Art runway show, due to take place on Tuesday.
Bruno said “YO” the French luxury house produced the calendar as part of this year’s celebrations of the 100th anniversary of Chanel No.5 perfume, and it did not expect the negative feedback, he who certainly does not have a TIKTOK account.
Chanel thought it would please some of its customers by offering this type of product. Evidently, we see that you have to be careful and therefore, in future, we will certainly be much more cautious.
Indeed, the influencers had denigrated this calendar because the content did not match the price. $825 for 27 boxes numbered from five to 31, containing full-size perfume and makeup products, miniatures and souvenirs all stamped with founder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s lucky number. By inviting influencers instead of journalists, Chanel gets the comments that the brand deserves. Continue reading
DSQUARED2 PRE FALL 2022
The elevator selfie trend appeals to Dean and Dan Caten, who are always quick to pick up on social media undercurrents.
Their pre-fall Dsquared2 collection was shot in an elevator mock-up, and every pic was quoted Twitter-style. So, was it intended as a slightly ironic commentary on our social media obsessions? Airport elevators, hotel elevators they’re just metaphors for the desire to hit the road again. Our boys and girls are travelers, globetrotters. They’re finally out of their closet and back on the planet.
