Category Archives: Uncategorized

SABATO DE SARNO JOINT GUCCI

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From a super star Jesus Christ to a Cistercian monk. A 39-year-old man named Sabato De Sarno has been announced as Gucci’s new creative director. He was previously the fashion director at Valentino. Prada SpA was where he began his career before working for Dolce & Gabbana Srl. In 2009 he joined Valentino .

In November, Alessandro Michele stepped down as Gucci’s creative director, vacated by Sabato di Sarno. Much like Michele when she stepped into the Italian house seven years ago, Di Sarno’s career has largely been behind the scenes up to this point, albeit at various fashion houses. Continue reading →

LVMH SLEEP PEACEFULLY

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400 billion euros worth of ideas which follows President Xi Jinping’s decision to lift restrictions on COVID-19, LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton says it is cautiously confident as 2023 approaches, but why?

After LVMH’s record results, Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault said the signals from China were positive.

“I’m pretty confident that, because the Chinese leadership is very astute, they’re surely going to take advantage of the period that’s starting to revitalize Chinese growth. If that’s the case, and we saw signs of that in January, then we have every reason to be confident, even optimistic, about the Chinese market.”

According to the Forbes ranking, he and his family are the richest family in the world ahead of Tesla CEO Elon Musk, SpaceX CEO . During his speech, Bernard Arnault also mentioned that 5 billion euros of investments will be made in France, pointing out that “more than 500 stores and 100 craft production sites are located in the country.”
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IRIS VAN HERPEN 2023

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In one of the deepest pools, Iris Van Herpen’s otherworldly dresses, sometimes resembling sea creatures, found themselves submerged. With a filmed presentation, the Dutch designer invited French free diver Julie Gautier to interpret her spring haute couture collection with a powerful political message. Continue reading →

CHRONICLES OF NARNIA

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A spectacular display of Schiaparelli’s Surrealist aesthetic kicked off Paris Fashion Week. At the center of the firestorm were three outfits incorporating eerily realistic replicas of animal heads: a snow leopard, a lion and a wolf.

Shalom Harlow wore a snow leopard bustier dress, based on an archival 1938 design, while Irina Shayk wore a lion gown and Naomi Campbell wore a wolf coat. Some online commenters praised the reproductions’ artistry, while others accused the house of glamorizing trophy hunting.

The creatures were inspired by Dante’s “Inferno,” which provided the broad inspiration for the spring collection. However, the point was really Dante himself and this story about trial, tribulation, doubt, and the need to experience all of that in order to reach paradise,” the designer explained.

It’s understandable that Roseberry feels blank page anxiety after his creations were exhibited as part of Schiaparelli’s retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. A strap dress shimmied with sequins made of tin covered in leather, while a bustier with a dramatically horned neckline quivered with ecru glass bugle beads. Continue reading →

LOEWE EXCITING NEXT

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It’s exciting to see Jonathan Anderson explore the unknown in menswear the void of Lavoisier.

The Loewe men’s show was stunning, challenging in its directness, unorthodox in its use of copper colors and pewter and vellum, and often chic in a strange way I thought I was a plumber.

In the midst of a fall season filled with tailored wool coats, Anderson’s were exceptional in their elasticity, and even more intriguing when cut a little looser and buttonless, with a deep V-shaped opening into which the mannequins rested an arm.

Several models wore white and red contact lenses, adding eerie and disturbing moments to the show, which was framed by three large-scale paintings by Julien Nguyen. The zombies are back.

Crewneck sweaters tightened at the side seams, creating bulbous shapes, while trench coats puffed up like dresses seen in old master paintings sponsored by Michelin. A silver top with a bulging hem contained sand to create a new “modular” shape. Continue reading →

GIVENCHIC BECOME GIVENCHEAP

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In terms of savoir-faire, what is the difference between a man’s suit so peerlessly tailored in a couture atelier that there are no outseams on the trousers, and a windbreaker or puffer jacket that is garment dyed, producing unpredictable, uneven color variations?

Is it one of Matthew M. Williams’ best Givenchy men’s collections to date, showing his range as a designer and combining innovation in tailoring and sportswear? Probably not.

YSL MALE SINGULAR

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In the soft gloom of the new flagship of the Kering Group, the spotlights reflected in the azure eyes of the models, and like a kiss that makes us shiver, Vaccarello, the magician, makes our souls shiver in a gesture so neutral that we are all surprised. A grand piano, in the middle of the large round room, installed there for the actress Charlotte Gainsbourg who plays on the keys of melancholy.

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PRADA UNCONVINCING OUTERWEAR

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In a Milan men’s season lacking in excitement, especially as Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reinvent the ’70s pie collar

No applause broke out at the end of their sad Sunday show, an austere collection in a setting of Art Deco chandeliers was the only interesting thing about this show.

MUGLER MIDNIGHT IN PARIS

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Mugler, the French house, plans to return to the Paris runway on Jan. 26 with a stronger presence. It has scheduled a presentation for 8 p.m. on Jan. 26 at La Villette, a vast cultural complex on the northeastern edge of Paris will parade a see now, buy now collection.

Paris couture week runs from Jan. 23 to 26 this season, and there are always a few ready-to-wear events at either end of the schedule. An immersive experience across all channels, and in front of a live audience, is what Mugler offers as a new concept. Mugler’s last live runway show was for fall 2020.

During lockdowns, Cadwallader produced three fast-paced films featuring special effects; fierce, body-baring fashions, and cameos from Megan Thee Stallion, Chloë Sevigny, Hunter Schafer and Shalom Harlow.

As the designer reflected on the power of film to engage wider audiences, he expressed some hesitation about returning to a simple runway show after the trilogy ended. Mugler has always been a popular brand and we didn’t want to keep the show only for the happy few, he added. Continue reading →

THEY QUIT THE FASHION INDUSTRY

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In November, Alessandro Michele bowed out as creative director of Gucci, stating that “there are times when paths part ways because of the different perspectives each one of us may have. Revenue at Gucci almost tripled during this seven-year tenure, from roughly $4 billion in 2015 to $10 billion in 2021 (27 billion RMB to 69 billion RMB) And no sale in the boujtique !

In December, Miuccia Prada and her husband Patrizio Bertelli resigned as co-CEOs of the Italian luxury fashion house group.

After a star-studded presentation of its Spring 23 collection, British luxury brand Burberry announced that its chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci would step down by the end of September.

In August, Kasper Rørsted announced he would be leaving his CEO post at the end of the year, well before his contract expires in 2026.  The news came shortly after Rørsted stated in an interview that “we made mistakes in China,” which quickly dominated global headlines and became a trending topic on Weibo. Indeed, Adidas has faced an onslaught of challenges since the pandemic.

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A DRAG QUEEN FACTORY

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As part of its commitment to supporting emerging talents, AZ Factory is hosting an event during Paris Couture Week to showcase the work of Tennessy Thoreson, a recent fashion school graduate.

Having pivoted to a platform for collaborations with guest creatives, or “amigos,” following the untimely death of its founder Alber Elbaz in 2021, AZ Factory is set to present what it bills as a “theatrical show” on Jan. 23 featuring 12 looks by Thoreson inspired.

Mauro Grimaldi met Thoreson at the Geneva University of Art and Design (HEAD) in November 2021, where Thoreson won both the Eyes on Talents award and the bachelor Bongénie Prize.

A member of the drag community, Thoreson exemplifies the ethos of smart fashion at AZ Factory. The designs will be available for custom order, with fittings to be held at AZ Factory’s Paris atelier at Fondation Cartier.

THE BLOND STORM

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Lan Griffiths the designer revved up the house’s signature styles by referencing the ultimate icon, Marilyn Monroe. Not that the actress was a new inspiration in fashion or for Griffiths she’s already infused the brand’s narrative twice in the past but her influence is constantly revamped, and most recently by Ana de Armas’ interpretation in the “Blonde” movie.

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HOUSE OF ROLEX AND CHANEL

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By getting closer to the Rolex group, the Franco-British luxury group Chanel is taking a stake in the company Kenissi. A terse piece of information within the watchmaking profession, for a small earthquake in the Swiss watch industry. Although it may seem insignificant, this announcement takes on its full meaning when you know that Kenissi is the industrial arm of Tudor, the second brand in the Rolex group. This news is the result of a merger between two of the most important independent players in the global luxury industry.

Chanel continues to strengthen its position as a player in the prestige watch industry by taking a stake in this new Swiss manufacturer of automatic movements, and so the Wertheimers, without giving any figures or details, are getting up to speed.

Kenissi is a name that means almpost nothing for Beotians. It is in fact the Gemini project, as it was nicknamed by its initiators in the greatest secrecy, which will see the birth of a factory of about 150 meters long divided in two parts. One for Tudor, the other for Kenissi. The former vice-president of Breitling Jean-Paul Girardin will be in charge of the management of the factory and, more broadly, of Kenissi.

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PUCCI PACKAGE SKI

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Over a three-day experience here, Emilio Pucci’s artistic director, who unveiled the Pucci x Fusalp collection, explained, in an interview at Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, that she had known since Day One that she wanted to do a skiwear collection, despite the fact that it’s totally connected to the brand’s lifestyle philosophy. Continue reading →

THE DAKAR NOIR OF CHANEL

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A stunning collection, in three-day program of cultural events in Dakar Senegal marked Chanel’s first fashion show in sub-Saharan Africa, unveiling its Métiers d’Art collection on Tuesday.

Princess Caroline of Monaco and her daughter Charlotte Casiraghi attended the show along with Pharrell Williams, Naomi Campbell, Whitney Peak, and Nile Rodgers.

70s-inspired pantsuits topped with beaded vests and skirts in geometric motifs that nodded to the flamboyant Congolese style subculture of the sapeurs. The lineup, which included flared jeans, platform shoes and tiered skirts, was greeted with a roar of approval from the 850 guests in attendance.

It was a potentially perilous exercise for the French luxury brand, which sought to deflect any accusations of cultural appropriation by inviting a host of local creatives to cooperate on the event, as well as unveiling a series of long-term initiatives to promote craftsmanship and sustainable farming, including the first overseas exhibition by its 19M specialty workshop hub in Paris. Chanel finds the coridor of the lord to represent the Afro Europeans. Very intelligent but it does not deceive anyone.

ZARA SECOND HAND AHEAD

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With over 670,000 listings across major resale platforms, charity-linked discount finder Savoo identified Zara as the most popular secondhand brand. Aside from Nike, Adidas, H&M, Victoria’s Secret, Asos, Levi’s, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Chanel, other brands with high listings volumes are Nike, Adidas, H&M, Victoria’s Secret and H&M. Continue reading →

ALESSANDRO MICHELE QUIT GUCCI

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Is Gucci about to undergo a major transformation? Alessandro Michele is leaving the brand as creative director. According to a source who spoke anonymously, Michele “was asked to initiate a strong design shift” to revitalize the brand, but she didn’t.

In the past, Pinault has shaken up one of Kering’s key brands. In a surprise move last November, Pinault fired Daniel Lee from Bottega Veneta, despite his strong performance and critical acclaim.

Matthieu Blazy, who worked in Bottega’s studio before becoming creative director at Burberry, succeeded Lee at the brand. The artisanal roots of the brand have been returned by Blazy in just two seasons.

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RAF SIMONS FINALLY QUITS FASHION

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The Spring Summer 2023 collection is a conclusion of an extraordinary of 27 years journey and the final season of the Raf Simons’ Fashion brand. That was on the Raf Simons’s Instagram today.

Raf Simons has finally discovered that he has no talent to be a fashion designer. He said to his team: “Thank you all for believing in our vision and in me.” And if he had to tell the press something, he would surely say:

“Thank you for never having supported me” and I would have answered him: “If you had been a true designer we would probably have supported you.” Nevertheless, we wish you all the best for your retirement and you should know that we will not regret you. Same for your successor in dior Maria Grazzia.

This is the difference between a real designer and a fake one, the real one stays in his passion until his death. A Belgian story perhaps?