In one of the deepest pools, Iris Van Herpen’s otherworldly dresses, sometimes resembling sea creatures, found themselves submerged. With a filmed presentation, the Dutch designer invited French free diver Julie Gautier to interpret her spring haute couture collection with a powerful political message.

Seeing Gautier writhe and sway in the depths, tangled in her long strands of red hair attached to her dress, was to witness solidarity with women in Iran, where morality police enforce strict dress and behavior codes.