BALLOON INFLATES THE MARKET

After 20 consecutive months of declining exports, sales of Swiss timepieces saw a 7.5 percent uptick in March, reaching 1.6 billion Swiss francs, or $1.6 billion at average exchange.

Analysts estimated that adjusted for calendar effects, sales still dropped, by around 2 percent. Yet after nearly two years of declines impacted by the crackdown on luxury gifting in China and a slowdown in Hong Kong the biggest international market for Helvetic timepieces as Chinese tourists chose other travel destinations, the uptick was seen as reassuring. The March data is likely to be seen as a turning point in the destocking cycle led by Mainland China and Hong Kong.

While sales of watches made of precious metal continued to decline, falling 0.7 percent, revenues for steel watches grew 12.5 percent and jumped 15.1 percent for bi-metallic timepieces. Continue reading

DIOR NEWS

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said on Tuesday it has made an offer to buy Christian Dior Couture for 6.5 billion euros, or $7.06 billion at current exchange rates, in a move that will bring the brand into the fold of its fashion and leather goods division.

In tandem, Groupe Arnault, the investment firm controlled by LVMH chairman and chief executive officer Bernard Arnault, will make an offer estimated at 12 billion euros, or $13.04 billion, for the 25.9 percent stake in Christian Dior SA that it does not currently control.

Presently, the Christian Dior Group includes Christian Dior Couture and LVMH. Christian Dior Couture encompasses the brand’s apparel, accessory and jewelry businesses, while the perfume and cosmetics lines are exercised under the umbrella of LVMH.

The move by LVMH and Groupe Arnault will simplify the structure of the luxury behemoth, home to brands including Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Guerlain, Sephora and Moët & Chandon champagne. Continue reading

THE EMPEROR OF LUXURY HONORED

This week, France’s Emperor of Luxury, François Pinault, received France’s high distinction, the “Dignité de Grand Croix” in the “Légion d’Honneur”.

Last November the Italian government honored Pinault for his support for Italian luxury brands and his contribution to modern art, namely through his Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana in Venice.

Pinault founded the luxury conglomerate Kering, whose portfolio includes Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga. The company is now managed by his son François-Henri Pinault.

The “Legion d’Honneur”, or Ordre national de la Légion d’honneur, is the highest French order of merit for military and civil merits, established in 1802 by Napoléon Bonaparte. Continue reading

OH MY GOGH

Louis Vuitton unveils a new collection of bags and accessories designed with the artist In recent years, Louis Vuitton has affirmed its engagement with the world of art through a series of high-profile collaborations with the most influential artists of our times.

In the French House’s latest collaboration, Louis Vuitton is working with the New York-based artist Jeff Koons to create a new range of bags and accessories to be launched on 28th April.

One of the most widely recognised figures in contemporary art, Koons has brought imagery from his long-standing ‘Gazing Ball’ paintings a series of large-scale hand-painted reproductions of works by the Old Masters to a range of Louis Vuitton products. His re-creations of masterpieces by da Vinci, Titian, Rubens, Fragonard and Van Gogh have been transposed on to such iconic Louis Vuitton bags as the Speedy, the Keepall and the Neverfull. Continue reading

RIHANNA RE-INVENTS CHOPARD

The inspiring new collection of Chopard is built on the singer’s island roots Rihanna, mixing nods to the lush gardens of Barbados with the electricity of Carnaval.

“Rihanna and I collaborated closely on the collections, so you can feel her unstoppable energy, strong creativity and inherent sense of design in every piece”. “With her unique style, she redefines the way people see and wear jewelry.”

A nine-piece fine jewelry capsule also codesigned by the singer, and limited to 2,000 per design, will enter Chopard boutiques internationally in June. Offering a more minimalist, graphic direction, the line will be available for pre-order in Chopard boutiques and on the brand’s web site. Continue reading

MASSIMO LEAVES PUCCI

Massimo Giorgetti leaves his role as creative director of Emilio Pucci. The designer says he is leaving the LVMH-owned fashion house to focus on the growth of his own contemporary label, MSGM.

Giorgetti, hailed as one of the most promising young designers, was appointed creative director of Emilio Pucci in March 2015, succeeding Peter Dundas.

“This experience with Emilio Pucci, one of the most representative and historic brands in fashion was an inspiring journey, which has also contributed to my professional growth. Today my brand needs more and more of my attention and all my energy. I would like to thank Laudomia Pucci, the LVMH group, Mauro Grimaldi and all of the Emilio Pucci team, for supporting me in the beautiful adventure,” says Giorgetti. Continue reading

BULGARI THE MOST IMPORTANT MOMENTS

Last Friday, Carlo Calenda, Minister of Economic Development inaugurated the new Bulgari manufacturing plant and offices in Valenza, the historic jewelry hub located between Milan, Turin and Genoa. The Minister of Economic Development, Carlo Calenda stated that “International investments do help Made in Italy”.

When Bulgari was acquired by LVMH in 2011, Italian media worried about a possible decamping of talent and creativity outside the country. However last year Italy registered “record exports” of 417 billion euros, or $459 billion at average exchange, which were “drivers of development, showing what Italian and international entrepreneurs can do.” Continue reading

ISSEY MIYAKE IN MILANO

Issey Miyake has inaugurated yesterday its first Italian flagship. Located in Milan on Via Bagutta, the 5,381-square-foot store is the first commercial space to open in 19th century Palazzo Reina, which was recently restored by a real estate firm.

“It’s exciting to see the synergy creating between the historic building and the Issey Miyake collections,” said Issey Miyake designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae, who highlighted that the Milanese flagship carries seven of the company’s lines, including the Issey Miyake label for both men’s and women’s, as well as Pleats Please Issey Miyake and Bao Bao Issey Miyake. “It’s a wide offering and it will be fun to see how customers will mix the different labels.” Continue reading

BALENCIAGA

Lionel Vermeil is back at Balenciaga, as director of communication and image, effective Tuesday. He continues as director of fashion and luxury intelligence at Kering, Balenciaga’s parent, a role he’s held since September 2014.

Vermeil had been director of communications at Balenciaga between 2007 and 2014. In his expanded role, he is to define the communication strategy and image in concert with Balenciaga’s artistic director Demna Gvasalia.

He reports to Balenciaga chief executive Cédric Charbit and joins the house’s executive committee.

The top communications job has been vacant since mid-2015 when Demetria White rejoined Nike as senior director of global communications. Continue reading

JUNKO SHIMADA 伎 IN FASHION

In transit at the Palais de Tokyo today, Junko Shimada literally delivers a collection picked up from her suspended garden between Paris and Tokyo.

Lover of joyful contrasts Junko Shimada makes everything rhyme, day and night, long and short, hot and cold, matte and shiny. Enjoying the delightful shifts, she brings together the cool and the chic, the city and the countryside, the simple and the rich …

Perfecto suits, impeccable overcoats, pencil skirts in woolen cloth stripes, marine sneakers exacer- bated by sinuous pythons. Pristine crepe blouses and dresses with black pleated ridges. Continue reading

TONY WARD OUTDATED

Stuck in history. Tony Ward presented his spring-summer collection 2017 during Paris fashion week at the Orotoire du Louvre offering to his guest a mystic and romantic experience. The spirit of this collection was influenced by a story dating the Byzantine period. Ward tried to evoke a moment in history where clothes were very rich in colors and heavy decorated, using quality fabrics with vivid colors embroided with precious stones, crystals and floral laces.

Even thought this collection has a concept and it was well realized we must say that it is a little bit out dated. It is nice to reconnect with tradition and history. However, Ward could have gone further in his design to make it more contemporary by pushing the concept in a more recent vision. It is true that Ward is known for his timeless design which provides a classical image and it is clear that there is a quality of embroideries and fabrics but it is hard to imagine that a young lady or even a sophisticated and a modern woman of today would identify herself with this style. Continue reading

STEPHANE ROLLAND COUTURE 2017

Less is more? Stephane Rolland presented his collection spring-summer 2017 at Xinhua Gallery in the 8th district during Paris Fashion week.

Rolland provided to his guests the experience of a very minimalistic architectural space with the dresses exposed like sculptures in a podium, an idea which fits well with the concept of his design.

Stephane Rolland is well known for the pure style, minimalist approach and sculptural organic shapes in his couture. We must say this collection, even though it is not very different from what we have seen before from Rolland, it is still very pleasant to watch in terms of esthetics. This time some of the dresses gave an image of a princess-like dress. It gives a vision of a modern eastern princess coming out from a fairytale. Continue reading

JULIEN FOURNIÉ HAUTE COUTURE

Julien Fournié is inspired by kinetic art and the works of its masters in the 1960s. The new “permanent member” of the restricted circle of Haute Couture is pacing his collection with a dialogue between 2D and 3D with semi-geometrical, semi-physiological shapes. He is using them both in garment architecture and in graphic embellishments. Continue reading