THE KORS OF MY ENNEMY

After years of intermittent protests against Michael Kors, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals said the company is going fur-free. Kors chief executive officer John Idol confirmed that the brand would indeed be going fur-free by December 2018, noting the decision “marks a new chapter as our company continues to evolve its use of innovative materials.”

Kors has produced a small collection dedicated to fur for several years, but chief creative officer Michael Kors echoed Idol’s sentiment, adding: “We now have the ability to create a luxe aesthetic using nonanimal fur.”

With the advances in faux fur and the introduction of other innovative materials, it’s becoming clear that there is simply no reason to continue using a product that causes so much pain and suffering.

Michael Kors is the second major designer to reveal a fur-free policy in recent months, following in the footsteps of Gucci, which unveiled its plans in October. The decision marked a significant change by Gucci and its creative director Alessandro Michele. The decision aligned the Italian brand with the practices of its Kering stablemate Stella McCartney, who has long eschewed the use of fur and leather. Continue reading

ALAIA GRAVE IN LONDON

From May 10th to October 7th an exhibition planned by Alaia himself will be presented by the Design Museum as Azzedine Alaia. The exhibition will explore his passion and energy for fashion as he himself intended it to be seen showcasing more than 60 pieces personally selected by the iconic designer.

Azzedine Alaia was recognised throughout his life as a master couturier who expressed the timeless beauty of the female form in the most refined degree of haute couture.

Alaia was born to a farming family in Tunisia in 1940 and studied sculpture at the fine arts school in Tunis before working at a modest neighbourhood dressmaker’s shop. He rose to fame in the 1980s, refusing to march to the beat of international fashion weeks and instead releasing his collections, like Franck Sorbier in his own time, with scant concern for publicity. Continue reading

FERRAGAMO WAREHOUSE

Salvatore Ferragamo has inaugurated a new advanced artisanal laboratory inside his Osmannoro plant.

The 12,916-square-foot space, which is dedicated to the development and realization of men’s and women’s leather good samples, will enable the company to further expand its leather accessories offering through the combination of a traditional artisanal approach and the use of innovative machineries and techniques. The new laboratory has been realized with eco-friendly materials and was designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes.

“In keeping with the brand’s philosophy, focused on the development of artisanal products celebrating Made in Italy craftsmanship, the new leather goods laboratory will enable our artisans to grow their passion and skills with an approach based on innovation and research, always in the respect of tradition,” said Salvatore Ferragamo chief executive officer Eraldo Poletto. Continue reading

SCHEDULE PARIS MEN’S WEEK

Tough the dates and times have not yet be confirmed, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode on Monday released the list of the official runway schedule for Paris Men’s Fashion Week from January 17th to 21th.

The maverick fashion label as well as France’s Niuku, Germany Gmbh and Britain’s Dunhill London plan to stage at the next show for the fall 2018 season on Jan. 19 in the French capital.

New highlights on the official presentation lineup, meanwhile, include Myar, the solo project of Andrea Rosso, son of entrepreneur Renzo Rosso and the creative director of Diesel licenses, as well as cult Japanese label Takahiromiyashita the Soloist, which earlier in the month will stage a runway show back-to-back with Undercover as fellow guest designers of Pitti Uomo, marking its first show outside of Japan. Continue reading

DONATELLA LONDON BIO BOUTIQUE

The new store, located on Sloane Street, is taking a sustainable approach to design. After paying tribute to Gianni Versace’s legacy with a high-energy spring 2018 show in September, Donatella Versace has kept the celebratory spirit alive and brought it to London.

On Monday night, she accepted the Fashion Icon prize at the Fashion Awards here and the following day she marked the opening of the new Versace boutique on Sloane Street.The store is located a few yards away from the previous one, and Versace made the move in order to secure a bigger space.

“London means a lot to me, all the young, creative talent is here who I try to work a lot with,” said Versace at the boutique’s opening party, where she was joined by one of those young talents, Christopher Kane, who used to design the Versus line. Other guests included models Natasha Poly and Irina Shayk. “I wanted a bigger space, and I’m particularly proud of this store because of the sustainability approach we are taking.” Continue reading

AFTER A COMA CASEY

American designer Casey Cadwallader as its new artistic director of women’s ready-to-wear, succeeding David Koma, who is leaving the house after four years at the helm. The 38-year-old studied architecture at Cornell University and has 17 years of experience, including positions as design director of rtw and accessories at Narciso Rodriguez and director of design at J.Mendel. He has also held positions at Loewe and Tse.

“The Clarins Group is very happy to welcome Casey Cadwallader to Mugler,” said Sandrine Groslier, chief executive officer of Clarins Fragrance Group and Mugler fragrances and fashion.

“His determination and unique sensitivity to Mugler’s artistic and experimental heritage will enable us to pursue the renewal of the house in the long term. We are confident that his personal vision and talent will position Mugler among the most sought-after avant-garde fashion brands of today,” she added. Continue reading

NOBUYOSHI ARAKI X SAINT LAURENT

Saint Laurent will reveal 16 unique pieces at Colette, which are part of a special art and photography project by world renowned Japanese artist Nobuyoshi Araki.

The artist captured Anja Rubik, integrating photography and painting techniques, exclusively for Saint Laurent and Anthony Vaccarello. The series, titled “Saint Laurent Shiki-in” (lust for color), merge elements of the world of Saint Laurent with the traditional themes of Araki’s work, a key figure in the modern world culture.

All of the pieces can be pre-ordered at Colette through the Taka Ishii Gallery and will then be sent from Tokyo along with Araki’s label signature and certificate of authenticity. Continue reading

GUCCI TAX INVESTIGATION

On Saturday, Reuters released a report saying that  Gucci is under investigation for tax evasion. Italy’s Guardia di Finanza, the national police force specializing in financial crimes late this week visited the fashion house’s offices in Milan and Florence for fiscal checks.

Mentioning an anonymous senior source with direct knowledge on the matter, Reuters reported checks started because Milan prosecutors suspected Gucci may have paid taxes on profits generated by sales in Italy in another country with a more favorable tax structure.

Reached for comment, Gucci released a statement saying the company is providing its full cooperation to the respective authorities and is confident about the transparency of its operations. Continue reading

KIMONO EXHIBITION

A new Kimono exhibit will be held in Tokyo to bring together traditional craftsmanship, high-tech robotics, and leading contemporary artists from all over the world. Dubbed Kimono Roboto, the project is being led by Hong Kong-based company Melco Resorts and Entertainment.

“This is a passion project — plain and simple. Japanese arts and culture have been an inspiration of mine since I was young, and I’m glad to be able to say that it’s an enthusiasm shared throughout the Melco family today,” Lawrence Ho, chairman and chief executive officer of the company was quoted as saying in a release. “We could not be more honored or excited to celebrate the heritage, culture and arts of Japan alongside our partners and these kimono artisans.

21 LOGO GUCCI FOREVER

Forever 21 isn’t giving up an effort to cancel Gucci’s trademarks for its classic, two-tone stripe design detail, and it’s using the designs of numerous other brands to support its case.

More than 40 brands and retailers across a range of price points, including Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s and from Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga to Tory Burch, J. Crew and Urban Outfitters, were cited in Forever 21’s updated complaint against Gucci, arguing several trademarks covering the house’s blue and red as well as green and red stripe designs should be canceled.

“All of the Gucci registrations feature three parallel stripes colored blue-red-blue or green-red-green,” Forever 21 pointed out in a new complaint filed last week. “Many clothing and accessory items adorned with decorative stripes colored blue-red-blue or green-red-green are sold by countless third parties. Continue reading

ARTEMISSION DARE VALLI

Giambattista Valli is launching an activewear capsule collection and gearing up for a retail push, marking the first steps of his label’s planned expansion under its new partnership with the billionaire Pinault family.

Following the end of his decade-long partnership with Italian luxury outerwear firm Moncler as creative director of its Gamme Rouge line, he will unveil his namesake activewear collection of 50 to 60 pieces to buyers in January.

With core prices ranging from 1,100 euros to 2,500 euros, the line will be delivered in June 2018 in tandem with pre-fall. Identified by a color-coded label, it will be sold in Giambattista Valli boutiques and select specialty stores.

“It’s a capsule collection where we will express a more functional side of the brand, while remaining faithful to the atmosphere of contemporary chic that is part of its DNA,” Continue reading

GOD SAVE BENETTON

Benetton is back. After having revamped its operations, cleaned up & refurbished its stores and refocused on its product offers to redevelop the United Colors of Benetton brand.

“I think it is the right time to start having fun.”  Benetton has called back Oliviero Toscani to launch its new communication campaign that is expected to be launched on December 1st. The The Italian fashion company is thus renewing a collaboration with the photographer that made history in the Eighties and Nineties for its controversial photos and campaigns that shines a light on issues such as the death penalty, AIDS, racism and homosexuality. The old receipes make successful businesses. Continue reading

MORAND GUEST MEMBERS

Two new couture houses, Christophe Josse and Noureddine Amir have been elected as guest members of the official calendar by the membership committee of the famous and worldwide known Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.

The invitation is a much sought-after approval by fashion houses and guarantees the two couturiers a slot on the official catwalk schedule during Paris couture week. The next season will take place over four days from Monday, January 22 to Thursday, January 25, 2018.

Amir is a Moroccan-born designer, noted for making film costumes in the 1990s and known for creating “wearable sculptures”, who received the distinct honor of an exhibition in the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent in March 2016.

For Josse, the annoucement could be seen as a comeback. French-born Josse is an experienced designer, who, after studying art history, joined the house of Torrente, where he eventually became the creative director of its couture collection. Continue reading

DIOR MAKE UP COVENT GARDEN

Dior invites you to step into the captivating world of beauty at the Dior Beauty Boutique in the Market Building. The essential trend destination for beauty lovers. Discover the latest Dior look, direct from the runway; from couture to ready-to-wear with Dior’s very own Covent Garden Boutique colour experts.

The boutique offers a complete makeup collection, exclusive products, bespoke services, exceptional events, and more. Discover Dior’s Backstage Universe and learn the most cutting-edge techniques hot off the runway, with lessons from the Dior Makeup Experts. 15 minutes, complimentary. Walk-ins only and subject to Artist availability. Continue reading

FASHION DESIGNER ALAÏA DIED

Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, died in Paris of heart failure last Saturday.

The Tunisian-born designer  gained international fame in the Eighties because of the success of his evening dresses, snug knits and sculpted leathers. He was nicknamed “The King of Cling” because his clothes fit like a second skin.

Alaïa counted among his friends and customers Sozzani, Naomi Campbell, Tina Turner, Madonna, Michelle Obama, Grace Jones, Raquel Welch, Victoria Beckham, Lady Gaga and Miley Cyrus. Continue reading

GRANVILLE BUYER PAINT

After 19 minutes of dueling, with four bidders on the telephone and one in the room, Leonardo da Vinci’s “Salvator Mundi” sold on Wednesday night for $450.3 million with fees, shattering the high for any work of art sold at auction. It far surpassed Picasso’s “Women of Algiers,” which fetched $179.4 million at Christie’s in May 2015. The buyer was not immediately disclosed.

There were gasps throughout the sale, as the bids climbed by tens of millions up to $225 million, by fives up to $260 million, and then by twos. As the bidding slowed, and a buyer pondered the next multi-million-dollar increment, Jussi Pylkkanen, the auctioneer, said, “It’s an historic moment; we’ll wait.” dont hang up Mr. Bernard from Granville.

Toward the end, Alex Rotter, Christie’s co-chairman of postwar and contemporary art, who represented a buyer on the phone, made two big jumps to shake off one last rival bid from Francis de Poortere, Christie’s head of old master paintings. Continue reading

TELL ME SOMETHING GOOD

Kim Kardashian expects social media will work its magic for her once again and give her a place in the congested celebrity fragrance game.

The reality TV star has become a serious businesswoman and will launch on Wednesday three eau de parfums at her online beauty destination, www.kkwfragrance.com. There will be three variations of the gardenia fragrance, her favorite flower and scent: Crystal Gardenia, Crystal Gardenia Citrus and Crystal Gardenia Oud. Each  will be sold in 30-ml. and 75-ml.

The three Eau de Parfums will be just sold online and be done it all digitally, she said. There is one exception: the range will have a small off-line presence, to start, at Los Angeles-based e-commerce site Violet Grey’s store on Melrose Place.

The twenty-year-old sister, Kylie Jenner, has spent the last two years building her multihundred-million-dollars “Kylie Cosmetics” empire, and Kardashian is angling to do the same with KKW Beauty. Continue reading

ALEXANDRE BOULAIS PASSED AWAY

This former student of ESMOD, excellent modelist, has successively been press officer of Thierry Mugler, Communication manager of Paco Rabanne in Spain and then to create a press agency called People’s Revolution.

His desire was to create an agency on a human scale contrary to large press agencies which give an impersonal and preformatted service.

Known by all those who matter in fashion, Alexandre Boulais passed away on 3 November in defeaning silence of the French Fashion Federation. We present our sincere sympathy to his family and his friend Romain.

SCHEINSTEIN BY KARL ?

Karl Lagerfeld Skewers Harvey Weinstein in Cartoon, the sketch is to appear in the monthly supplement of Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung.

In his latest “Karlikature” for the monthly supplement of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung newspaper, Lagerfeld depicts the disgraced Hollywood producer, embroiled in widening accusations of sexual misconduct, in the manner of Babe, Wilbur or Porky.

With his inimitable wit and penchant for word play in multiple languages, the headline in German reads, “Do you know Schweinstein?” schwein being the German word for swine or pig.

“I never liked this man,” Lagerfeld commented. The designer has often contributed caricatures with political themes to the monthly since it launched in February 2013. Continue reading