CHINESE DRIVE LUXURY

Over the coming months, China’s reopening will partly fuel a rebound in luxury consumption in the Middle East. Chinese tourists are expected to boost Middle East luxury sales over the next six to 12 months, starting in the second quarter.

Pre-pandemic, Chinese tourism accounted for about 10 to 15 percent of Dubai’s luxury sales. Due to higher flight capacity and targeted marketing campaigns from Dubai toward Chinese tourists, it is clear that travel from mainland China to Dubai is recovering much faster than travel to Europe.

Major events in the Gulf this year, including Formula 1 Grand Prix races in March and October, and Expo 2023 in Doha, Qatar, launching in October, will drive tourism.

Also this year, the Red Sea Project, an ambitious tourist hub with bewildering landscapes and ultra-luxurious hotels, will begin to open in phases. Middle Eastern collectors, among the most enthusiastic in the world, continue to demand high-end watches from a watch dealer in Riyadh.

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DIOR MADE IN INDIA

On Wednesday, huge logistical and security measures were put in place as Dior teams worked around the clock, sets for the show were put together over the past five days and flights arrived with celebrities planning to attend the show.

More than 850 guests are expected to attend the event, which will be the first global launch of this scale in India of a calendar collection versus a capsule collection. Chanakya has created an enrichment of embroidery. “Dior has been extremely committed and generous. Lesage would have said thank you very much!.

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LVMH RELAUNCH GENTA BRAND

He has designed and created watches for some of the greatest names in modern luxury watchmaking, including IWC, Omega, Universal Genève, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Gérald Genta is nicknamed by Christie’s the “Fabergé of watches

Gérald Genta was born in Geneva in 1931 to a Swiss mother and a father of Piedmontese origin. At the age of 20, he completed his studies in jewelry and goldsmithing and obtained a Swiss federal diploma. Recruited by Universal Geneva, he created the Polerouter model for the airline in 1954.

Gérald Genta has created many iconic watch models: Constellation for Omega (1959), Golden Ellipse for Patek Philippe (1968), Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet (1972), Ingenieur for IWC (1976), Nautilus for Patek Philippe (1976), the Pasha watch for Cartier (1985). Continue reading

HOMICIDE FOR DESIGNER KATIE GALLAGHER

A homicide verdict has been rendered in the death of Kathryn “Katie” Gallagher, an independent designer based in New York. Police officials at the New York Police Department said no arrests have been made and the investigation is ongoing.

According to the New York City chief medical examiner’s office, the death was caused by a combination of fentanyl, p-fluorofentanyl, and ethanol intoxication.

A 35-year-old woman was found dead in her Lower East Side apartment on Eldridge Street on July 24. A few minutes before 9 p.m. on July 24, NYPD responded to a 911 call and found the designer unconscious and unresponsive on a bed in a bedroom, according to the police report that was filed last summer. There were no signs of trauma. EMS responded and pronounced Gallagher deceased.

Upon asking if Gallagher’s death was being investigated as a drug-facilitated theft, as one news outlet reported Friday, a NYPD spokesperson replied, “The investigation continues.” Continue reading

L’OREAL AND GEMO

The quest for sustainable ingredients is picking up pace at L’Oréal. One of the world’s largest beauty companies announced Monday that it has invested in a Geno-led initiative to develop and commercialize biotechnology-based alternatives to key ingredients in beauty products.

A founding member of the initiative is Genomatica Inc., known as Geno, along with Unilever and Kao.

According to Barbara Lavernos, L’Oréal deputy chief executive responsible for research, innovation, and technology, Geno is among the most powerful biotech start-ups.

Geno develops sustainable materials from plant- or waste-based feedstocks rather than fossil fuels. A wide range of products are made from its materials, including cosmetics, carpets, performance foods, drinks, and home cleaners. Continue reading

A STINKY SMELL PERFUME

In many member states, the European Commission conducted unannounced inspections of companies and an association involved in the perfume industry. A collusion investigation is being conducted regarding the supply of perfumes and fragrance ingredients.

According to the Commission, which did not reveal the names of the companies and associations it inspected, it has also sent formal requests for information to several companies in the same sector. But knowing that few companies produce perfumes we can easily guess which ones.

“The inspection and requests for information concern possible collusion in the supply of perfumes and fragrance ingredients,” the European Commission said in a statement. “Fragrances are used in the manufacture of consumer products, such as household products and personal care products.

The Commission stressed that these inspections do not imply that the companies are guilty and do not prejudge the outcome of the investigation.

In exchange for reporting the conduct and cooperating with the Commission throughout its investigation, companies that participated in a secret cartel may receive immunity from fines or a significant reduction in fines under the European Commission’s leniency program. Continue reading

IN THE EYES OF PASSION

Here is the most glaring contradiction of this new world of fashion, new status and pillar of popular culture, a show that anyone can follow or even practice by commenting for the most part without any knowledge. A large part of the audience on Instagram is dominated by fashionistas in slippers often having unemployed neurons.

However, they believe they have a true devotion, for fashion, not out of passion, but out of a desire to shine from Andy Warhol’s 15 minutes of fame. Some of them think they are indispensable, like the bimbo who works for 1,200 euros gross at LVMH, and who, with a business card with the “Vuitton” logo, thinks she is the top of the fashion week. One of them told me one day: “fashion is me! She was a saleswoman at Sephora. Continue reading

FASHION BUYERS FLEE THE FRENCH CAPITAL

According to a study, the majority of Buyers leave the French capital. It was not until 508 that Paris became the capital of the Franks for the first time. And it is still the work of Clovis who resides in the thermal bath, as its name indicates, in Paris built by the Romans.

And despite the history of the capital, the fact is there, Russian, Chinese, American and Italian who represent 85% of the fashion buyers coming usualy in Paris during the Fashion Week, were on vacation this year. Since the French capital has begun works in the street it has made traffic more difficult and leds to heavy traffic and if you add strikes of all sorts plus garbages left on the pavements of the streets as well as a lack of services in the restaurants you discouraged people to come and work in Paris

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A HOTELKEEPER FOR PERFUME

LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s Perfumes and Cosmetics division has appointed Stephane Rinderknech chairman and CEO. Stéphane Rinderknech joined L’Oréal in 2001 in the United States within Travel Retail.

He oversees the group’s 15 beauty brands, grouped under Parfums Christian Dior, Guerlain, LVMH Fragrance Brands, and Kendo. Rinderknech also leads LVMH Hospitality Excellence, which includes Hôtels Cheval Blanc and Belmond Hotels. He remains a member of the group’s executive committee as well.

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BALENCIAGA BACK IN STYLE

In love with black, purity and cuts, the unpredictability is a substantial element of the dissymmetrical creation. It creates an effect of surprise favorable to the eye, and the ignorance of the public is an asset in the hands of the Georgian designer.

To this factor is added the anxiety of creating by the uncertainty of a non-repetition of acts, the anxiety is further increased when the designer immerses us in his structures and the memory of the mud and water of his last collection.

Sunday’s fashion show at the Carrousel du Louvre, the meeting place par excellence of the old school, where Jacques Mouclier wanted, in his time, to gather the whole profession in view of the traffic problems to come, but visionaries are never recognized in their time. The show went off without a hitch, as minimalist as possible with rows of black chairs in a long room lined with white canvas, a tool that workshops like for their test canvases.

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COPERNI TOO ROBOT TO BE REAL

Coperni designers Sebastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant sought to create more impactful images by sending robot dogs down the runway, which led to a confrontation between model Rianne Van Rompaey and a quadruped that created a palpable sense of unease. After the plastic painting on mannequin a robot that undresses the mannequins.

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DRIES VAN NOTEN PARIS 2023

Intimacy. That’s what inspired Dries Van Noten’s fall 2023 women’s collection, which was dedicated to the love of clothes and cultivating relationships.Van Noten elevated dressmaker and mending details to the stage of Le Dôme de Paris (Palais des arts). Porte de versailles.

Some of the classics had special touches, such as a trench coat with gold paint rolled around the waist, as if it had been embellished by hand.

There were also feminine, lingerie-inspired pieces that contrasted with the masculine tailoring, including slipdresses embroidered with French lace or strapped with old necklaces, organza layered skirts with raw edges, and dusters with subtle floral prints over bra tops.

“We wanted pieces to look antique but not dusty,” he said, noting that a gold lamé floral was adopted from an archival piece found in a mill in Como, and another fabric was Continue reading

SCHIAPARELLI PARIS 2023

The Paris calendar is jam-packed with shows this season, so our backstage spy reporter will have more shows to cover, including big names like Christian Dior, Loewe and Givenchy as well as newcomers like Paco Rabanne and Y/Project. Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli show is always a viral hit, and this season he’ll show ready-to-wear for the house for the first time. Wise very wise…

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PARIS FASHION GUERILLA

As K-pop stars take over the front rows and crowds of fans follow in the streets, as well as guerrilla invitations aimed at the general public, fashion week draws bigger crowds every year. Organizers face unique challenges this season because of a nationwide strike called on the final day to “shut down the country.”

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MOSCHINO 2023 MILANO

At Moschino the surrealism that is the DNA of the brand, is undeniably transformed into a new facet of the Italian label, with a spirit of rebellion for a Chanel-lisation of the brand the posh in the anarchic vision of the punk cool for bourgeoises walk in Milan.

PRONOUNCE RTW 2023

Founded by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, Shanghai-based Pronounce’s fall 2023 collection was inspired by Chinese oracle bone scripts and knots, two of humanity’s oldest ways of storing information.

The suits and coats of the Mao regime resembled bones dug up from the ground, while tops, trousers, and outerwear featured giant ancient Chinese characters.

Giant knots danced around the sweaters in red, white, and brown, and oversize decorative patterns were made by knotting.

They said the collection represents their reflection of the information overload of the digital age, and how looking back might be the best course of action.

Their instincts were correct. This collection offered a fresh take on Chinese culture that wasn’t cliché. For those seeking Chinese identity, the collection has it all, and for those looking for great clothes, the brand has a lot to offer.” Continue reading

JW ANDERSON LONDON

UNITED COLOR OF ANDERSON; Looking at his archives, Anderson added the colors and images created by one of his heroes, pioneering dancer and choreographer Michael Clark. (In 2004, he staged the Alexander McQueen fashion show, which was more of an artistic performance than a fashion Show)

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SIMONE ROCHA

Simone Rocha used Lughnasadh in Westminster’s cavernous Central Methodist Hall yesterday. Models walked around the first level of the hall before carefully descending the ornate central staircase to skirt the rows below.  An ensemble of musicians performed a brooding, sometimes sinister, and very Celtic-sounding composition on stage.

You could imagine the venue’s founding fathers feeling aflutter as the looks unfolded and the soundtrack’s tempo gathered melodic urgency. The red ribbons that fell from the hair, garments, and sometimes eyes of certain models were meant to represent blood traditionally daubed on children’s faces to ward off ill spirits and bad luck.

Their ostensible primness and tumbled suggestion of their fabrication created a richly contradictory tension.

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WILLIAMS MIDDLE FINGER FOR KANYE WEST

Louis Vuitton appoints Pharrell Williams as creative director for men, you now have to be a thug, athlete or rapper to be a fashion designer, so why make fashion schools? Pharrell Irish name which means brave,  half black and not designer, after the achitechs the singers now!

In a bold move that confirms its positioning as a “cultural” brand, Louis Vuitton has appointed American Pharrell Williams as creative director of its men’s division. Yes, the one with the ridiculous glasses he wore at Chanel.

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RODARTE GLAM GOTHIC

Wednesday From Tim Burton, Gothic at Rodarte, animal at Collina Strada: two universes opened Friday the Fashion Week of New York, little provided in big names of fashion but full of young designers and emerging signatures, its trademark now.

Rodarte, the brand of the Californian sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, one of the most upscale to make its return in the New York calendar.

The two sisters, who had already made a detour into haute couture in Paris, and whose pieces are already featured in American museums, offered a gothic and mystical show, around a large table with tablecloths, dishes and silver candlesticks, in a landmark building in Brooklyn, the “Williamsburg Savings Bank Tower”.

The Rodarte show also reveals sublime dresses evoking both the fashion of the 30s with pieces adorned with bangs but also the golden age of Hollywood through dresses in silk and glamorous lace. Continue reading