Category Archives: BREAKING MODE

HEARST QUITS CHLOÉ’S HEART

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Gabriela Hearst is to leave the house of Chloé after three eventful, and above all acerbic years with the influential newspaper magazine Canal Luxe.

Hearst planned a collaboration between Chloé and actress Angelina Jolie, who recently announced her intention to launch a new fashion house. Naturally, Angelina Jolie, who knows nothing about couture, is taking on a designer who knows nothing about it either. Great evil spirits always meet, too.

The Uruguayan-born designer of the low-impact Nama sneaker, it is normal as she sew like a foot. She thought she’d invented upcycling: what a lack of modesty! The Lord of the Luxury group finally realized that it deserves better than a pseudo designer. Perhaps the next one will come from the chat GPT. It is far better than a “Cat on a hot tin roof”.

A VISIONARY IN EYEWEAR

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Safilo’s industrial plant in Longarone, Italy may have found its white knights. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Marcolin are in advanced discussions with Safilo to take over the plant and its employees whose future, as reported, is uncertain.

The eyewear manufacturer, licensee for brands including Boss, Dsquared2, Missoni and Tommy Hilfiger, among others, said that it had “given the management a mandate to explore alternative solutions for the Longarone plant.”

A total of 468 employees are based at the storied Longarone site, in Italy’s Veneto region, one of the country’s key eyewear manufacturing hubs.

Antonio Belloni sharing the luxury conglomerate’s willingness to hire 250 people currently employed at the Longarone plant through its Thélios eyewear manufacturing company. Continue reading →

LUXURY GOODS SECTOR FALLS

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Paris Stock Exchange and its luxury goods sector reacted badly to Chinese data on Wednesday May 31. The leading CAC 40 index was down 0.54%, or 39.05 points, at 7,170.27 points at around 10am.

Chinese data weigh on luxury sector. Paris Stock Exchange retreated on Wednesday, May 31, showing little satisfaction with the latest Chinese economic statistics, which once again point to a less vigorous economic recovery than expected, weighing on luxury goods stocks.

The leading CAC 40 index was down 0.54%, or 39.05 points, at 7,170.27 points around 10 a.m., again at its lowest level since the end of March. On Tuesday, it had fallen sharply by 1.29%.

DIOR RETURN IN 1949

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Saturday night, during the rise of the steps of the actress Natalie Portman in a dress from the archives of the house Dior. Between reinterpretation and iconic creation, we reveal the underside of this mythical dress.

And for good reason! This unique piece is a reinterpretation of a Dior model from the fall-winter 1949 Haute Couture collection.

This strapless dress, reworked for the occasion by the workshops of the house of Dior, is composed of tulle fully embroidered with sequins shaded.  Here is all the creativity of the Italian, take a vacation in Mexico and make a dress from the archives.
FM

MYSTERY HAS ALWAYS SURROUNDED CONSUMERS

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There has always been a mystery surrounding consumers.In the $20 trillion U.S. economy, personal consumption expenditures account for 70.8 percent.Due to inflation rates, bank failures, and other factors, consumers are skittish right now.Retail’s leaders are left guessing where shoppers are and where they’re going.

Now is a great time to be a merchant. Consumers are spending more on food and consumables, which saw sales increase in the low double digits, while general merchandise sales declined in the mid-single digits.

Consumer shifts show just how fast retail is changing right now as consumers are changing dramatically.The good news here is that new shoppers seem to be sticking at least for the time being but the less good news is that their activity is mostly confined to staples and necessities.

There is a widespread sense that a tougher consumer environment is on the way. Even Johann Rupert, chairman of Cartier-parent Compagnie Financière Richemont, is looking for a volatile year ahead in the U.S. and described the Fed’s sudden move to higher interest rates as “reckless.”

“The United States will not be as buoyant as a year ago,” Rupert said last week. “Will it return?Consumers are spending more, but they may not be getting more, since inflation is at generational highs and eroding purchasing power.With luxury continuing to thrive while economic concerns push more shoppers to the value channel, the space in between has only gotten trickier, with brands really having to stand out. Continue reading →

CANNES IN VENISE WITH BVLGARI

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Here Bulgari unveiled its latest high jewelry collection, Mediterranea, a tribute to the company’s origins, inspired by founder Sotirio Bulgari’s journey from Greece to Italy. During a conversation at Palazzo Soranzo Van Axel, a hidden gem in Venice, a private building dating back to the 15th century, where Bulgari set up a showroom to show off is collection.

This inclusivity was reflected by the brand ambassadors who attended the show for press and American clients on Tuesday evening, held at the city’s Palazzo Ducale, including Lisa of Blackpink, Zendaya, Anne Hathaway, Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Crystal Liu, Hikari Mori, Yang Yang and Lashana Lynch.

In 2023, Bulgari held its event in Venice, as the crossroads of Mediterranean influences, “where the Roman Byzantine Empire fused with the Roman Western Empire to give rise to inclusive and unrivaled arts and architecture.”

VALENTINO RETURNS TO ITALY

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Dubbed Valentino The Narratives, the show will take place on June 16 at 2 p.m. at the Università degli Studi di Milano Statale. The event will kick off Milan Fashion Week, which runs through June 20.

While the women’s and couture collections are traditionally unveiled in Paris, this is actually a return to the roots, since founder Valentino Garavani presented his first men’s show in Milan in January 1985. No more Paris and its traffic jams.

In 2022, the house launched Valentino House Essentials, a selection of timeless but ever-changing staples that serve as codes for Piccioli’s creative vision, and the project will continue this year.

Other luxury brands, from Gucci to Versace to Givenchy to Moschino, have moved away from the mixed-use format, where women’s clothing often distracts from men’s clothing. It’s likely to move away from Paris Fashion week as well.

DIOR CRUISE IN MEXICO

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After its pre-fall show in Mumbai in March, the French fashion house revealed that it will unveil its 2024 cruise collection in Mexico City on May 20. Probably the house had not yet used all its carbon tax.

Maria Grazia will therefore continue its tradition of collaborating with and copying local artisans.Through this exciting dialogue, the artistic director will highlight the art and some emblematic figures of this country dear to the heart of Dior since the beginnings of the house in 1947, said the brand in a statement. Jacquemus’ big hat popularized by Pancho Villa. Immersion in the heart of the mythical couple Frida & Diego who formed in the 1930s, the most iconic couple in the history of Mexican art.

But also Porfirio Diaz, former head of state, who built many buildings and reorganized the city into neighborhoods. It is in the one of the “Roma” that he impels real changes with a very innovative architecture for the time and the Roman will take us there.For a Fashion the Ruins of Calakmul a must in perspective.

Pancho Villa était connu comme l’un des meilleurs cavaliers de son temps. On l’appelait pour cette raison « Le Centaure du Nord ». Maria aura lu le “CentDior du Nord “.
FM

BEST-DRESS AT THE CORONATION

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The three best-dressed guests at the coronation of King Charles III.Parisian chic was infused into the coronation by Brigitte Macron, who attended with her husband, French President Emmanuel Macron. A pastel pink midi dress and matching Louis Vuitton coat completed her look.

Pippa Middleton, the younger sister of the Princess of Wales, chose a pastel yellow coat dress by British brand Claire Mischevani. She paired it with a matching hat.

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PINAULT STARVES TO DEATH

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In the wake of Balenciaga’s ad scandal, a portion of Kering chairman and chief executive officer François-Henri Pinault’s pay will be indexed on the French luxury group’s efforts to protect the reputation of its brands.  Perhaps there should also be a sanction for parents who merchandise their children.

Speaking at the group’s annual general meeting in Paris on Thursday, Véronique Weill, an independent board director at Kering, said it was one of two new criteria determining the variable salary of the group’s top two executives, Pinault and group managing director Jean-François Palus, in 2023. Another new element is linked to the reduction of the group’s carbon footprint, Weill said.

Addressing the situation on Thursday, Pinault took responsibility for the error, but emphasized that Kering’s brands are bigger than the inviduals who run them.

Balenciaga triggered outrage with two ad campaigns in November, the effects of which continue to impact the revenues of Kering’s “other houses” division, which recorded a 9 percent sales decline in the first quarter.

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NEW ICONS AT DIOR

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The official NewJeans Instagram account announces Haerin’s appointment as Dior’s global Ambassador for jewellery, fashion and beauty.

The 16-year-old member of K-pop girl group NewJeans has been chosen as luxury ambassador. Chanel snagged member Minji, Gucci and Armani Beauty are working with Hanni. Burberry and YSL Beauty has Danielle, and Hyein is with Louis Vuitton.

We hope that they have a badge of unaccompanied minors and maybe it is the new mission of Sydney to care on the group of 16th years old girls.

The singer and Dior have privileged ties that are stronger than ever. Between elegance and audacity, a unique friendship in the name of creativity,” Dior said in a statement.

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GO FORD-WARD

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It’s the end of the shows for Tom Ford. The designer has just released his latest women’s ready-to-wear collection for fall on his website, featuring his favorite looks from the past 13 years.The cult of personality like Karl without the talent

Ford orchestrated his release in cinematic fashion, animating his models in glass cases as if they were mannequins in a museum exhibit, and standing in front like a conductor. A sort of Karl of the poor, he will make collections with his trainees, and after the first two nothing more.

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JOHN QUITS CHANEL

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John Galantic, president and chief operating officer of Chanel Inc., is stepping down from his role.

Galantic’s resignation was announced internally last Wednesday. His plans were not available for comment Monday. Through initiatives such as Sunrun, Chanel Community, and the Racial Justice Fund, Galantic drove sustainability and social commitment.

Alain Wertheimer, global executive chairman of Chanel, and Leena Nair, global chief executive officer, emailed a letter to employees last week, noting that under Galantic’s leadership, the U.S. achieved its highest ever Voice of Client scores and gained in brand equity results. Galantic has been a director at Bacardi, and a non-executive director at Ferrari. Bernard Arnault is looking for directors for his 500 billion euro group.

A PANDA AGAINST A VUITTON

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Lord Arnault met with Wang Wentao, Chinese Minister of Commerce. This is starting to look messy after the French President’s controversial visit to Dior on Avenue Montaigne in Paris just after the man, who passed Normal Sup. three times, finished his visit to China earlier this month. But, this lady of the Elysée, who is dressed by the group, might be “enjoying” it!

The luxury group has old and intense links with the communist party, and in Luxury, to reach what you want to achieve, will owe you all the vileness of the world. For me, a hint of freedom will never be freedom, but the new rich decorate their contemporary cave with the trappings of a squire, and in the end, the only thing bohemian owns are their tableware. In Jean Yanne’s film, “Les Chinois à Paris”, he doesn’t really make fun of the Chinese, but more of the French, of their past close to collaboration and of the intellectual fashions of the time for the naive and unmeasured infatuation of many French intellectuals for Marxism-Leninism, very “Montant”!

I am a man slightly living in a heavily compromised world, and while Wang congratulates himself on the strength and diversity of the commitment of the world’s largest luxury group in China, I only see the commercial exchanges of a waxed canvas bag for two Pandas at the Beauval Zoo, a real cultural compromise, indeed! Continue reading →

THE FASHION GAME IN 2024

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Bruno Pavlovsky, president of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion, and Pascal Morand, its executive chairman, detailed some of the measures taken by the organization to preserve its schedule from the disruptions expected from the Games, which will monopolize the city’s venues and security forces for several months.

There will be two Olympic Games in 2024, the Olympic Games from July 26 to August 11 and the Paralympic Games from August 28 to September 8, 2024. Next summer, the federation is working with the authorities to identify 200 spaces that usually host fashion events.

Men’s fashion weeks will be held Jan. 16-21 and June 18-23; women’s fashion weeks will be held Feb. 26-March 5 and Sept. 23-Oct. 1; haute couture shows are scheduled for Jan. 22-25 and June 24-27.

Chanel, the only private sponsor of the Grand Palais renovation, will not return until October 2024. For now, the French fashion industry is not expected to be involved in the opening ceremony.

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LVMH SHARESOLDIERS

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Sidney Toledano, chairman and CEO of LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, is moving on to another role within the French luxury group LVMH. The same old story: the people who go up are the same people you see when they come down.

At the annual shareholders meeting, Mr. Arnault was pleased to thank Mr. Toledano for his leadership over the past three decades at LVMH.

“I wanted to highlight the exceptional work he has done. He is not leaving. He will be moving on to other roles,” Arnault said. I had the feeling that I was in the serie of Trumps “the Apprentice” and the director says to sydney, you are fired.

“We will continue to work together in a different setting. I won’t say any more about it, but I’ll tell you about it anyway next year. A big thank you, Sidney, for the great job you’ve done over the years,” BLA BLA BLA BLA BLA.

An independent news site reported that Michael Burke, another veteran LVMH executive, was the favorite to succeed Mr. Toledano as head of the Fashion Group. Mr. Toledano’s successor will be announced in the coming months, but the decision has not yet been made. Continue reading →

FASHION CITIZEN CAN

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On his tombstone, it will be written: “it will never have been sharp enough”. FM, hidden for a long time under the pseudonym “Anonymode”, butchered fashion designers at the speed of a bullet, as we say.

The man is sometimes excessive in his comments, and moody, but he is modest. He doesn’t like socialite. He is a major actor of the new French journalism, and has remained after the tidal wave of Influencers, “Videophotographers”. He proposes funny, literary and poetic texts, infusing in the world of fashion the literary current of the effrontery in front of these powerful groups of luxury which do not cease to discriminate him.

Crazy about writing, he writes at a frantic pace both in English and in French, playing with words and reputations. He has been living for decades in the center of the intellectual quarter of Paris to escape, as he says, the stupid human being of the suburbs on the French Riviera who used to say to him: I live in Paris, whereas they live in Vélizy or Villetaneuse… dark suburbs.

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HIP HOP AND FASHION

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Block parties were sweeping New York’s Bronx borough as Black and brown youth celebrated culture, community, and a new genre of music: hip-hop.

Hip Hop born as a response to the popular disco genre of the ‘70s, hip-hop quickly expanded outside of New York City as artists and groups like Grandmaster Flash, DJ Kool Herc, The Sugarhill Gang and others resonated with communities across the country and helped the genre become more mainstream by the ’80s.

Hip-hop has become the most popular musical genre in the U.S. today. “Fashion and style have always been important to hip-hop because fashion and style have always been important to communities of color.

Break dancers develop their own style and graphic artists transfer their art from the walls to clothing, so it’s always been very intertwined.”

Fashion has been influenced by these five official pillars. For break dancers, early hip-hop style featured baggy silhouettes. Similarly, fashion took inspiration from graffiti artists, incorporating bright colors and graphic brush strokes.

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VERSACE ONCE UPON A TIME IN HOLLYWOOD

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Despite the inclement weather forecast, Donatella Versace had her Hollywood moment with Sir Elton John, Dua Lipa, Pamela Anderson, and Jeff Bezos in the audience and Naomi Campbell, Kendall Jenner, Gigi and Bella Hadid on the runway.
From the rooftop of the Pacific Design Center at magic hour, you can see the Hollywood Hills, the San Bernardino Mountains, the downtown skyline, and the gorgeous parade of Versace power glamour.

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HERMÈS GREENHOUSE GAZ NO SMELL

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The French fashion house Hermès has opened a new leather goods workshop in Louviers, creating 280 jobs and strengthening its commitment to sustainable employment.

The second leather goods hub of the house will employ 260 leatherworkers in Normandy. Bags, small leather goods, saddles, and bridles will be produced inside the workshop by the artisans.

By conserving the site’s original trees and redirecting rainwater to the water table, the undulating gardens designed by Belgian landscape architect Erik Dhont conserve local biodiversity. An excellent example of Hermes’ commitment to environmental performance, regional development, and social responsibility is the workshop. But producing leather has an impact on the environment. Indeed, the breeding of animals in farms is a source of nitrate pollution (very involved in global warming). Continue reading →