Dubbed La Piazzetta after the central square in any Italian town, her second collection for the Florentine house to be delivered in three monthly drops aims to dress the whole village in joyful dolce vita style.
EMILIO PUCCI 2022
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BURBERRY AND DANIEL LEE
Burberry is exploring a new creative path, and speaking to designers who could potentially replace chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci, whose contract expires in early 2023.
According to industry sources, one of those designers is Daniel Lee, who made an abrupt departure from the Kering-owned Bottega Veneta late last year, shortly after the brand’s spring 2022 runway show in Detroit, Michigan.
During its first-quarter results presentation in mid-July, Burberry said it was very happy with Tisci, and declined to comment on whether it was seeking to replace him. The sacred life force, invisible and powerful, contains the memory of the past and the vision of the future. It allows creation to manifest itself in matter here and now.
IN THE BACKROOMS OF THE DÉPÔT
LVMH VACANCY LEVELS RECORD
As LVMH’s vacancy levels reach record levels, the company highlights its recruitment drive. At LVMH, an event highlighted the company’s recruitment efforts during the past 12 months, vacancies are peaking amid a shortage of skilled workers.
This year, we have a record number of vacancies. In addition to leather goods workers, jewelers, watchmakers, and sales associates, we also need hotel and restaurant workers. There will be 30,000 in 2024.
Since its founding in 2014, the Institut des Métiers d’Excellence has trained some 1,400 people in France, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Germany and Japan. For the first time, jeweler Tiffany is expanding the program to the U.S. with 450 apprentices this fall. A crisis in a group can also be of growth. But why young people don’t want to work for this group?
NAKAZATO PARIS 2023
Born between a sculptor father and a jeweler mother, Nakazato was raised in an environment surrounded by modern art and various forms of expression from early childhood. He began making clothes by self-education before entering the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp’s Fashion Department.
VICTORIA NAKED
The beauty brand which is owned by parent company Victoria’s Secret Co. on Tuesday will release “Bare Eau de Parfum,” a partnership with international perfume school Symrise. (Bare mean naked )
Bare is unlike any other fragrance in how it takes the idea of a signature scent to a whole new level. A proprietary blend of adaptive musks, developed in conjunction with the [nonprofit, independent scientific research center] Monell Institute amplifies the weares unique scent, like a manifestation of their authentic self.”
“Choosing a fragrance is an extremely personal experience, so we took our time developing a scent that could be both relatable and unique to everyone who wears it,” said Victoria.
VACCARELLO BACK IS BACK
Riding out way out to the Agafay desert one hour outside Marrakech, a van full of English and American editors were gobsmacked by the sight of two camels, They had seen the wintour and didier Grumler kissing, a real nightmare vision. In the Kering group we save the planet, the journalist had walked in the desert several meters.THE OTHERS AND DE LIBRAN
It’s like being invited to brunch at the designer’s house when you attend a Julie de Libran couture show. Watch models wind their way through the basement floor’s living room, inner courtyard, and kitchen while eating finger sandwiches and biscuits stamped with her initials.
inspired by a Peter Lindbergh photograph of Amber Valletta with angel wings. Meanwhile, surplus items from her collaboration with Eres, including lace bodysuits, bra tops and leggings, were given a new lease on life with a bedazzling of chunky Swarovski crystals.
This season, de Libran partnered with French specialist Causse on items including scooped silver driving gloves trimmed with a chain, and bicolor evening gloves. She also teamed with beauty brand Sisley on a black leather lipstick holder worn around the neck. finally a collection made by others.
FRENCH HAUTE COUTURE
In spite of all the talk about changing the fashion calendar and downsizing shows, Paris Couture Week was back in full swing with 30 on-calendar shows and dozens of other runways and presentations. Nothing felt “slow fashion” about the four-day frenzy.
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FENDI 2023 TRULY MAGICAL
For its HAUTE COUTURE line the house Fendi moves away from its historical muse, Rome. Over the years, Fendi has declared its love for the city where it was established almost 100 years ago, as in the spring-summer 2022 couture season where Kim Jones took the historical codes and transposed them into a futuristic version.
VALENTINO 2023
“Beauty is resilience, not escapism, and creativity is the only means to contrast dictatorial decisions,” Piccioli said.
As the sun set behind the Roman landmark, 102 models walked down the steps Piccioli’s light gowns fluttering in the evening breeze singer Labrinth performing live at the top of the monument, and people gathering all around from Piazza Mignanelli, home to Valentino’s headquarters, to Via Condotti and as far as the eye could see, cheering and clapping. It made for quite the spectacle even for the most jaded fashion insider.
“Nothing has changed but everything has changed,” said Piccioli. “People are what makes the difference, the Valentino palazzo is the same, the Spanish Steps are the same, but the brand has changed: It’s no longer about embracing a lifestyle but it’s rather about a community sharing the same values.”
40 Black models, as well as models of different ethnicity, age and body size, and men to walk the show like a message.
JUANA MARTIN 2023
Tribute to its land and its culture. With the aim of bringing all the essence of Andalucía to Paris. The designer has once again invited her friend and well-known actress Rossy de Palma and the artists Israel Fernandez and Diego del Morao to musicalize the fashion show. Continue reading
LA MÉTAMORPHOSE 2023
Maybe the most curious contradiction about fashion right now is its status as a pillar of Polish culture.
Several of these commentators have probably never been to a fashion show or acquired couture clothing. However, there is a great deal of interest in fashion in terms of analyzing, sourcing, and inquiring. In the current fashion world, the reach is democratic, but the taste is snobbish. Anyone, in other words, can be a Snoby but Snob means “Sine Nobile” in Latin which is without gentry.
The show on Monday was packed with references to the work of French Fashion designers and the gambit is that many fans can comb through the collection.
It’s similar to the way that television shows are created now, with bread crumbs sprinkled about to reward vigilant viewers. Everyone used to give Virgil Abloh a hard time for copying (which was misplaced criticism, I always thought), but now the point is not only to copy but to spot the reference, and celebrate it. That the way it is.
The most important is that the references are there. They just need to invent by themselves with their own culture the fashion of tomorrow, The picture above shows a good way.
SORBIER SUPERNATURAL 2023
We never doubted that he was a talented poet, and when I speak of him, my word is deadened with satire and sneer. I have flown on planes, crossed borders and touched bodies that lacked the taste of ink, for a picture of the world that seemed both familiar and exotic, populated by white shadows and memories that rhyme with my father’s silence, but never was the journey so transporting.
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ROUSTEING IN GAULTIER
One nugget of advice Olivier Rousteing received from Jean Paul Gaultier for his one-off couture collection: Just be yourself, that is, to be bad?. A profound statement (if you know what I mean) from a French fashion legend synonymous with unfettered self-expression and presaging a process of discovery for Rousteing, who has spent most of his fashion career at Balmain, which he overhauled and reenergized in his own image.
In the ateliers at peak concentration, Rousteing realized his intricate designs in an exclusive preview at Jean Paul Gaultier headquarters on Friday, nobody understood anything in the workshops!. At Balmain, I have a different sense of femininity. Despite expressing sadness at the conclusion of the project, Rousteing was grateful for the opportunity, praising the atelier’s capabilities.
In honor of Gaultier’s countless contributions to fashion, he took on the task with great respect. One of the few designers who could be both a creative director as well as iconic and well known around the world, he was a real inspiration to me as a designer. Rousteing marveled at Gaultier’s fame as much as his clothes, putting him on the same level as Yves Saint Laurent.
SCHIAPARELLI 2023
In conjunction with a retrospective devoted to the house’s founder Elsa Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry presented his collection at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, dressed by everyone from Beyoncé to First Lady Jill Biden. Several of the outfits shown on the runway are featured in the exhibit, titled “Shocking!” The Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli.”
HAUTE COUTURE AND VALLI
By all accounts, Giambattista Valli’s move into haute couture in 2012 was a risky one. In the previous years, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix, Emanuel Ungaro, Balmain, Jean-Louis Scherrer and Hanae Mori discontinued their high-fashion operations, and the rarified, costly enterprise appeared to be crumbling.
During the Pandemic, Valli held several still-life exhibitions of his haute couture instead of runway displays, and they attracted a steady stream of visitors, not just fashion fans.
It is the wonderment that haute couture evokes that drives the designer to create. There are few people who can tell whether the front row is occupied by a princess or a workman.
Having spent seven years designing RTW at the elbow of Emanuel Ungaro, the Rome-born designer launched his signature line in Paris in 2005. In addition to Roberto Capucci, Fendi, and Krizia, he has worked at Roberto Capucci, Fendi and Krizia.
FASHION SHOW
The imagination, took to the runway for the Parisian debut of Nigerian-born, London-based designer Mowalola Ogunlesi.
Cue a lineup of sleek shapes in pop colors that evoked saucy pulp comics, with abbreviated outfits that showed plenty of skin imagine & sexpots projected into the TikTok era.
MARC JABOB’S AND NIETZSCHE
In the face of ever-changing resources, unexpected obstacles, and a world that is digitizing new standards of reality, my sentiment is that unwavering creativity is the essence of living.
The words of philosopher Nietzsche read on the show notes at Marc Jacobs’ latest runway show, “We share our choices with a world beyond our insulated but not impermeable walls.”.
With this collection, Jacobs took his enveloping, dystopian shapes to the next level, merging classic American sportswear silhouettes with couture-like sensibilities (fabrics included vinyl, rubber, plastic, plaster, glass, foil, and more). The fall of 2022 was an extension of the message of protection from spring and fall of 2021, with quirky, cool aesthetics.
“Reaching beyond the walls of the library and onto the big screens of Times Square, the show demonstrated the power of fashion and Jacobs’s creative ability that has made him a star.” is the critique of pure reason.
THOM BROWNE 2023
The collection Thom Browne showed at Hôtel de Crillon on Sunday night. Male models, some with spiky punk hairdos, strode down the catwalk in a lineup tweed ensembles. Probably it was an homage to Chanel but also to Browne’s creativity: The fabrics were developed in France specifically for the brand, and many came edged in sequins or festooned with tiny white tufts, like bits of Peter Cottontail’s nether regions.
LEONARDO DEL VECCHIO
Leonardo Del Vecchio pass away at 87. A genius, a visionary, an Italian who inspired many just left us. Thank you Leonardo for teaching us a lot.
It was, without doubt, a visionary man and one of the most successful Italian entrepreneurs of the past decades. Through his tireless work, he strongly influenced not only the luxury sector, but the entire Italian economic landscape.
Today we lost a man with and extraordinary humanity, capable of transforming great intuitions into successful entrepreneurial stories. Constantly in pursuit of absolute perfection, Leonardo Del Vecchio will remain a point of reference for Italian excellence all over the world.
CASABLANCA MENSWEAR 2023 PARIS
OWENS GREAT BALLS OF FIRE
The end of the world is depicted in Apocalypse Now and End of Days by Rick Owens. Three orbs about two meters across were set on fire, and then slowly raised high above us, then dropped to a sizzling impact in the fountain of the Palais de Tokyo.
The great balls of fire represent suns, arcing across the sky, and crashing to the ground.
Owens had been in Egypt and named the collection Edfu, after the site of the Ptolemaic Temple of Horus. However the only literal souvenirs of that journey on the runway today were the three top-to-toe tulle looks near the end.
Owens tweaked his own codes today, introducing a flared-upper version of his killer platform boot. Another novelty was technical wear, delivered in the loose pants, shirts, and inverted jackets cut in gray ripstop nylon shot through with Dyneema, a fiber Owens said was “apparently one of the strongest in the world.
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WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK’C
It was a show of his greatest hits. The Théâtre de la Madeleine was the place to see Walter Van Beirendonck’s fine tailoring, madcap prints, and sportswear elements for spring 2023.
A host of black ghost-like forms first appeared on the dark stage. As one by one, these dress fell off, revealing Beirendonck’s models.
It had wing-like sleeves and a gold color. Over a cotton shirt with ruffled sleeves and black suit pants, a black suit jacket was transformed into a vest. The necks were embellished with chunky sun charms, in reality a “fraise” that my neighbor calls neck jewel, which was at the beginning of the 16th century adopted in most of Europe it is the ancestor of all the collars, ruffles, ties, and collars that abound during the following centuries.