Category Archives: FASHION SHOW PARIS 2014

SUPERMARKETING BY KARL

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caddy

Quilted patent leather, metal button, non-slip wheels, Karl Lagerfeld reinvents the ultra luxury version of the trolley for his supermarket.

Pasta with caviar, sardines with “foie gras” … Karl Lagerfeld had dared to transform the Grand Palais into a luxury supermarket. With over 500 products and 1000 packaged items, the models parade between the shelf spaces.

In fashion, Chanel reinvented sneakers, leggings, tweed suits declined in jumpsuit, bags, box of milk “Coco” or candy package. The “must” of these exceptional accessories: the reinterpretation of Continue reading →

LE STUDIO

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YSLstudio2“Mirror and Secrets” could have been called the new book of the fashion historian, Jéromine Savignon, who tells the story of the process behind the designer’s couture collections.

Published by Actes Sud, the book is published in both French and English, and contains around 40 unreleased images — including sketches and photographs of the designer at work in various studios — along with quotes from Pierre Bergé. Photographers include Marc Riboud, Jeanloup Sieff and François-Marie Banier.

The author divides the designer’s creation process into five acts. “The process is a dogged pursuit of perfection in an almost mute effervescence,”. Continue reading →

VERONIQUE BRANQUINHO

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canal4 - CopieDear Sir,

As promised, you will find hereafter the article on Véronique Branquinho. As you refused to invite us for purposes which are none, we are publishing what we sent you.

As key Opinion Leaders, when the times of the collections came, we asked for invitations to the shows. As over the last 5 years we had been receiving the same formated email from “students” having an internship at PR CONSULTING. Besides those emails were full of mistakes. We are really wondering why you are employing qualified people and ask students to do their jobs. Maybe those communication or PR Managers are not paid enough to fulfill their job?

In fact, the sad reality is that you employ “stagiaire2@…” to do the job to avoid recruiting qualified employees and without really briefing them on who to invite to satisfy your clients. What we are sure is that you have enough places for friends and friends of friends … Continue reading →

HAUTE COUTURE

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HAUTECOUJTUREToday is a very specific moment. Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture starts and you can find the whole schedule of Paris Fall-Winter 2014-15 Haute Couture. Nothing is ever more characteristic in the world of fashion, and more specifically int Haute Couture.

It is not difficult to define the worst and the best aspects of Haute Couture. In fact, it is easily summed up in one word: perfection. The Perfection is the word I love the most as it is so easy to write an article when the collection is fabulous. However it is so difficult to write an article when the presentation is ugly.

Creating and delivering this level of high quality require inexhaustible energy. Paradoxically, it is to this ideal Continue reading →

DINNER IN WHITE SOON

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WHITEDINER

Though white can be chic all year round, nothing says Summer like a fresh all white look. Attempt to mix textures and layers when debuting head-to-toe of any one hue. Combine different weights, such as white lace or chiffon, and evening wear weaves, like satin and organza, for an interesting effect on the eyes. Take layering for example; drape mesh in silver over chalky whites to soften the block of color.

White on white is a key trend. For (DINER EN BLANC), Continue reading →

CORRIE NIELSEN

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The official guest of the Federation of Ready-To-Wear, Corrie Nielsen, who has been presenting her shows for the last six years in London, presented a collection this year in Paris. She is one of the first to start the Paris Fashion Week with a well thought and relevant collection revealing a much more personal and innovant trend.

The collection, entitled ” Cradle of Humankind “, draws its inspiration from the great literature of the late nineteenth century with Bram Stoker’s Dracula as well as in 1992 film adaptation of the novel by the Director Francis Ford Coppola with Continue reading →

HERMES

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Mini and maxi
 lengths at the Hermès’ catwalk in Paris, with full, straight and tapered shapes, the protagonist of the Hitchcock film, Rebecca, with her duality, her mystery, and her past-era elegance, inspires a feminine and an extremely French women. Christophe Lemaire wants Fall to be a cozy and a luxurious xxx.

The Hermès collection offers rich and warm coats wrapping the body. Beautifully draped and cut coats were key here—done in variations of robe-like silhouettes, collar-less throw-ons, relaxed military jackets and tons of belted fur vests.

His color palette was restrained, almost to the point of austerity. Which made moments like a printed dress and shearling vest especially welcome. There was a lot to like

(and importantly, wear) in this line-up, but as a whole, it was very subdued. It was luxe, luxe, luxe. Think: an entire suit made from sheered fur. The wonder was Continue reading →

SHIATZY CHEN

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Shiatzy Chen is a Taiwanese fashion house, often referred to as the Chanel of Taiwan, and is the eponym of her luxury brand.

She was born in 1951 in Changhua, Taiwan and founded the company in 1978. The brand spirit for Shiatzy Chen is “neo-Chinese chic”, which transfers historical Chinese aesthetics into modern fashion design.

The brand is known for its distinctive design features drawn from Chinese culture such as qipao collars, knot buckles or patterns in a Chinese ink painting. The ink stone, along with paper, brush and ink stick, make up what is called the “Four Treasures of Scholarly Study”.

The ink stone from which the collection gets its name is a large water-holding reservoir and mortar used for the grinding and containment of ink. Flowers are imprinted on boxy jackets as well as on fluid skirts.

When they appeared in 3D Chanel of Taiwan and black ink, I try to understand if that girl could be the next Karl Lagerfeld of the Wertheimer Group?

CHANEL SUPERMARKETING

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Yesterday Karl Lagerfeld took VIPs shopping at the “Chanel Supermarket show” complete with fully-stocked aisles, check-outs, trolleys, special offers and discount posters. Every product packaging  were branded Gabrielle Chanel.

Karl transformed in supermarket the Grand Palais, the temple of arts, after the FIAC (Art supermarket for rich people). Chanel has recreated a supermarket for rich people in Paris downtown. He just forgot that he has never been in a supermarket and does not know what is happenning Continue reading →

LEONARD TOUCHDOWN

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A few weeks ago, when I have heard that the next Leonard collection will be run by the Chinese designer Yiqing Yin, I had written an article: a Chinese who will make kimonos. That should be interesting!

But, my spy from Moscow was at the show for me.

Madam, today, I beat my breast and as you are surely aware, when we do here a mistake, we know to acknowledge it. To tell you the truth, I must admit that it was a wonderful collection; the best of the Paris fashion week 2014.

For anybody, it is not very easy to arrive in a firm which has already a culture and to immerse herself of this culture without forgetting her own culture and identity.

Yiqing Yin did it in a few months and that is how you recognise great designers. I had already been impressed by the Chinese’s capacity to influence the weather during the 2008 Olympic Games, but, this time, their capacity to change the “Couture” is becoming obvious year after year.

I bet you that this Continue reading →

PACO RABANNE DARE UGLY

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I have looked at all the photos of the Paco Rabanne’s Fashion Show to find something that would not destroy the design of the blog. I found nothing. The owner of Paco Rabanne, the Puig Group, once again, makes a copy quite below the brand it wants to give to the world of fashion industry.

Indeed, “dare ugly” – it may be a new marketing concept? There is really no reason for this collection to be sold or shown to an audience of professionals because, obviously, we can not in any case judge a collection that clearly seems to have been made by students of first year of the Chambre Syndicale.

Mrs. Julien Dossena checks out, does like other foreign designers in France and copies the Haute Couture collections.
Over the last 30 years, thanks to Mr. Karl Otto Lagerfeldt, we have already experienced a revisitied German style. Therefore, Madam, after the ugly, dare beautiful !