Lee, who joined Burberry last October, had recently begun dropping hints about the direction he planned to take, although there were still a few surprises in store at Monday night’s show, bristling with faux fur. Continue reading
Category Archives: BREAKING NEWS
PUIG A ROBOT TO THREE BILLIONS DOLLARD
With a 10% market share for prestige fragrances worldwide, Puig has surpassed its target of €3 billion in sales by 2022.
MANAGERS’ MERCATO
With immediate effect, Philippe Farnier has been appointed executive vice president international of Parfums Christian Dior. In an internal memo, parent company LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton announced changes in its Perfumes and Cosmetics Division earlier this month. That included the nomination of Véronique Courtois taking the helm of Parfums Christian Dior.
He succeeds Bruno Angibeau, who served as international managing director of Parfums Christian Dior since 2011. He is leaving LVMH.
For now, Farnier will continue to be chief executive officer of Travel Retail LVMH Beauty, working closely with Stéphane Rinderknech, the newly appointed chairman and CEO of LVMH’s Beauty Division. The group is cleaning up after the changes in the group’s newspapers, now it is the perfumes and after certainly couture… It was time!
SCOTT AT LVMH OR CHANEL
A statement will be released shortly regarding Jeremy Scott’s departure from Moschino after 10 years as creative director.
Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman of Moschino’s parent company Aeffe, said he was fortunate to work with the creative force that is Jeremy Scott. “I would like to thank him for his ten years of commitment to Franco Moschino’s legacy house and for ushering in a distinct and joyful vision that will forever be a part of Moschino history.” Continue reading
BACK TO THE WISE FASHION
From Sarah Burton’s return to Alexander McQueen’s Savile Row roots to Chitose Abe’s pinstriped suits at Sacai to Louis Vuitton’s blanket-soft herringbone blazers and pants to Simone Rocha’s sublime sailor-inspired styles, tailoring was prominent throughout the show.
At Prada, Raf Simons called the idea “daily couture,” and the collection he designed with Miuccia Prada was full of it, with perfect black pants, army shirts and classic crewneck sweaters, as well as floral-decorated white skirts and volume-back military coats with origami flowers. Even Loewe elevated everyday leather shirtdresses, twisty knits, and trompe l’oeil dresses to must-haves.
A masterful mix of Space Age and modern age was showcased by Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne with chainmail, chandelier crystals, and fringed tinsel. Despite the return to reality, runway fireworks were largely absent, except for Thom Browne’s epic staging of “The Little Prince.” The season’s dominant storyline was wearable clothes, but it wasn’t enough to re-focus attention on New York, according to the new chairman of the CFDA. It’s important to put on a show.
GUCCI A SPACE ODYSSEY
New Gucci advertising campaign celebrating Stanley Kubrick. I’ve always been charmed by cinema. For its power to tell stories that can probe human adventure and its drift,” begin Alessandro Michele’s notes on the new Exquisite Gucci campaign, which draws inspiration from a series of iconic films by the late, celebrated sculptor of genres, Stanley Kubrick. Continue reading
OSCARS BY CARATS
To make rhyme style and sustainability, it was the mission given this year by the Oscars to the guests of the prestigious ceremony. They were invited this March 12 to favor rental, reuse, upcycling, or natural materials to green the most scrutinized red carpet of the season.
As a result, the expected “green” wave didn’t break over the Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles, but a handful of guests worked to show the way towards a more planet-friendly ceremony.
Always on the lookout for Pantone’s “color of the year” at the Oscars, Eiseman pointed to Cara Delevingne’s “exuberant and beautifully worn” red Elie Saab gown.
Mr. Eiseman highlighted Cara Delevingne’s “exuberant and beautifully worn” red Elie Saab dress. Cara and her new one hundred percent silicon bust and tattoos, muse of luxury houses, but especially muse of the best payers.
It was for this 95th ceremony to turn to vintage dresses, already worn on other occasions, rented, or borrowed in the archives of major fashion houses, pure marketing in fact. And we forgot the blood diamonds.
LUXURY INSIDE THE DREAM
After two strong years of luxury sales in Europe and the U.S., high-end demand remains strong.Mostly, freewheeling spending is driven by “how people feel, what they want” Consumers “don’t care and want to have a good time” even if their stock market portfolios decline after experiencing two terrible years caused by the pandemic.
The demand for new dresses, shoes, and handbags is outpacing jewelry purchases, which spiked due to gifting during the pandemic and continue to show strong results, he added.
In 2018, Louis Vuitton reported that it had 5 million Chinese consumers, representing .03 percent of the Chinese population. This underscores how thin the penetration of Chinese demand is.
With the return of shoppers from China, who can now travel more freely, luxury stores, including some that already have waiting lists and require appointments, could potentially get very crowded.
PARIS FASHION ACESSORIES 2023
Exuberance for bold accessories found new expressions. In addition to Balenciaga and Loewe’s large handbags, Alexander McQueen and Victoria Beckham’s boots have taken the concept of thigh-high boots to the extreme by merging them directly with pants.
The handbags Loewe presented on the runway were inspired by the brand’s archive from the 1970s, under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson.Sneakers were the only category missing this season.
With dazzling pumps and sandals, studded knee-high boots and a flamenco-inspired capsule collection with Rossy de Palma, Christian Louboutin celebrated 30 years of its signature red soles.
Over the past week, flashy pieces, scaled-up proportions, and strong collaborations dominated the accessories scene in footwear, handbags, and jewelry. Continue reading
AN SOCIALITE WAS BRUTALLY MURDERED
Last week, 28-year-old Abby Choi, a Hong Kong socialite and influencer, was found brutally murdered and dismembered.
Choi’s ex-husband Alex Kwong, his brother Anthony, and their father Kwong Kau are charged with her murder. Jenny Li, the mother of the Kwong brothers, has been charged with perverting the course of justice. On Monday, the Kowloon City Magistrates’ Court denied bail to all members of the Kwong family.
Police found Choi’s body parts and a pot of “human soup” filled with Choi’s remains at an apartment near Tai Po District’s Lung Mei Beach that the elder Kwong had begun renting a few weeks earlier, two days after Choi was reported missing.
BOTTEGA VENETA 2023
Street style not from the extravagant, attention-seeking fashion species outside fashion shows, but from ordinary, arresting-looking people you might come across in your neighborhood just received a major stamp of approval from Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy, whose standing in the fashion landscape is on a meteoric trajectory. Continue reading
FASHION WEEK 2003 QUID 2023
Marc Jacob 2003
Fashion cycles every 20 years, according to some. Accordingly, we might see some of the same themes in fall 2023 as we did in fall 2003. During that time, many collections had a Space Age theme, with lots of references to André Courrèges’ cookie-cutter minis. Continue reading
ROLLAND THE GOLD RUSH
The nominations for the 2023 Oscars were announced yesterday, and the red carpet outfit predictions followed soon after. Consider turning heads in Stephane Rolland’s phenomenal gold gown that debuted on the haute couture runway yesterday in Paris.
The latter looked like frozen liquid gold midway through the show, spilling over the model’s shoulders and creating a glittering blistered lamé tent to protect her from the public. On her face and part of her torso was a tear-shaped cup, reminding everyone that she was both ethereal and earthy. She wore gold bracelets around her arms, like threads. As if she were a living sculpture, she was the manifestation of a god.
A YOUNG MAN WITH A LOW POTENTIAL
Charles de Vilmorin will preside the 38th Hyères Festival, a young man that the French fashion industry is trying to make us swallow whole!
The Hyères editon 2023 is placed under the sign of the nonentity. This year’s competition for young creation has chosen to entrust the presidency of its various juries to three young names in fashion and photography ; for the fashion category, Charles de Vilmorin.
In Paris, it was announced on Wednesday evening, January 25th, at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. On this occasion, Jean-Pierre Blanc, the founder and general manager of the event, officially launched the 38th edition of the International Fashion and Photography Festival of Hyères, which will take place from October 12 to 15. He also announced the selected finalists and the jury members.
In addition to celebrating the centenary of the Villa Noailles, which hosts the event, a miracle is explained by the presence of most of the fashion actors who are opening their houses around St. Tropez for the summer.
Charles de Vilmorin, 26, has achieved a meteoric rise over the past three years and is probably the youngest designer to have been named to the famous competition’s fashion jury.
DIOR HIJACKS SAINT LAURENT
A horde of screaming fans huddled behind barriers greeted the BTS member on Place de la Concorde. The mood inside the darkened tent was one of controlled chaos as the South Korean heartthrob joined Robert Pattinson, Eddie Redmayne, J Balvin, David Beckham and Gwendoline Christie.VUITTON CHICAGO FIRE
Somebody pinch Colm Dillane. Just 18 months after winning the runner-up award at the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, the Brooklyn, New York-based designer was at Paris Fashion Week to present the collection he codesigned for Louis Vuitton, the world’s biggest luxury brand.
Dillane, the founder and creative director of the KidSuper label, came to the table with a 500-page book of ideas, but Vuitton’s in-house team had already designed a large portion of the collection, which revolved loosely around the theme made in Chicago.
ZEGNA FLEECE IN CASHEMERE
A cashmere flakes installation protected by ceiling-high glass windows this season was the brand’s focus. It was intended to show guests a key phase in the production of Oasi Cashmere fabrics at the company’s Trivero factory. Oasi of Cashmere was the second cue: the name of the collection.
TATJANA PATITZ
It would be necessary to speak in the language of Victor Hugo or Cornelius to describe the beauty.
In memory to TATJANA PATITZ (25 March 1966, Hamburg – January 2023), the German top model who achieved international prominence in the 1980s and 1990s representing fashion designers on runways and in magazines such as ‘Elle’, ‘Harper’s Bazaar’, and ‘Vogue’. Patitz was one of the big five supermodels who appeared in the 1990 music video “Freedom! ’90” by George Michael, and is associated with the editorial, advertising, and fine-art works of photographers Herb Ritts and Peter Lindbergh.
In the book ‘Models of Influence: 50 Women Who Reset The Course of Fashion’, author Nigel Barker reviewed Patitz’s career during the height of the supermodel era in the 1980s and 1990s, writing that she possessed an exoticism and broad emotional range that set her apart from her peers. Continue reading
THE RED AND THE BLACK
For those in the market for decidedly evening styles, the couturier delivered glamorous but believable fare, lining up draped goddess gowns, monochromatic sheath dresses, sequined suiting in changeant tones of aqua and purple. There was even another hoodie, this time dressed in silver and gold sequins.
L’ACOSTE GLOBE-TROTTER
After four years as Lacoste’s creative director, Louis Trotter is stepping down. In addition to directing the fashion show and general collections, Trotter contributed to the company’s shift toward women’s wear, lauding her “real consistency” in creating the company’s overall line.
She had joined the company in 2018, showing her first collection in February 2019 during Paris Fashion Week. Thierry Guibert praised Trotter’s creativity and commitment, as well as her contribution to Lacoste’s legacy.
Lacoste’s executive had noted Trotter’s contribution to the brand’s enduring sports casual identity during the opening of its Champs-Elysées flagship. An intimate presentation in Paris showcased her latest designs. In spring 2023, they will be available for purchase.
Lacoste is rethinking its creative approach, stating that it will take the form of “a collaborative studio model focused on a collective vision.” The brand will also be celebrating its 90th anniversary in 2023.
FURS FOR BIMBOS IT IS OVER
Days before the end of 2022, a pop-up store displayed sable, chinchilla, mink, fox and other furs for 75 percent off.
Furs last retail outlet in California was the high-end Beverly Center, a large shopping complex adjacent to Beverly Hills. The shopping center was trying to sell as much merchandise as possible before the California Legislature passed a statewide fur ban on Jan.
Bimbos have been buying our furs here for years at 25 degrees, and this has killed our business. Fur opponents have spent years slowly whittling away at California’s fur business, and they win.
COMPLETELY TIK LOCK
Blackpink’s Rosé the pop star, who has been an official ambassador for Tiffany since April 2021, will appear in images featuring new Lock designs as the collection begins an expansion beyond bracelets and into earrings, rings and necklaces.
It is understood that Blackpink’s contract with its record label YG is set to end in mid-2023 and it’s unclear if the group will sign an extension and if Tiffany’s contract with Rosé is contingent on her status with YG.
The record group’s relationship with Tiffany holding company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is a lucrative one beyond Rosé’s contract with Tiffany, fellow group member Lisa has contracts with Celine and Bulgari and Jisoo is in contract with Christian Dior.
Rosé’s Lock; campaign is representative of Tiffany’s investment in what it sees as a new marquee product line.The new designs are expected in stores this month with prices ranging from $4,800 to $20,000.
CHAMPAGNE FOR CHRISTMAS
Artémis Domaines, the wine company of billionaire François Pinault, has acquired the champagne house Jacquesson, it announced Tuesday in a statement. The billionaire’s company, which already owns Château Latour wine and Henriot champagne among others, becomes “the sole shareholder” of the Jacquesson house, in which it had been a minority shareholder since February 2022, the statement said.
Jacquesson, founded in Dizy, Champagne, was previously owned by the Chiquet family, which acquired it in 1974. The estate covers 40 hectares and produces 300,000 bottles per year. Jean Garandeau, general manager of the Jacquesson house since September 2022, retains his steering. Jean-Hervé Chiquet, the former owner, will continue to sit on the board of directors of the house.
FASHION IN PARIS AND NETFLIX
According to the provisional calendar released Friday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, all 81 events at Paris Men’s Week in Fall 2023 will be physical. Between Jan. 17 and Jan. 22, 48 shows and 33 presentations will unveil the men’s wear collections.
Saint Laurent will return to Paris on January 17 with its men’s collection show at 9 p.m. Anthony Vaccarello has shown his menswear designs in Marrakech, Jersey City, New Jersey, Venice, Italy, and Malibu.
It had been more than a year since Maison Margiela has shown a men’s collection, the first and only Artisanal collection to date by John Galliano. Its show will take place on Jan. 22 at 8 p.m.
The fashion week cornerstones are settling back into familiar positions with Rick Owens and Louis Vuitton on Jan 19 at 12:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m., Dior Homme the next day at 2:30 p.m., and Hermès on Saturday at 3 p.m.
Emily Bode will join Emily in Paris in January. The six-year-old brand announced on Wednesday that it would return to the official Paris menswear calendar this season with a show scheduled for 6:30 p.m. on Jan. 21. Normal for the new president confusing couture and Netflix series, he thinks that the creator of the dumbest series in the world deserves an advertisement to change the image of France by stupid French fashion people. I am willing to bet that there will be Nodelato shoes in the serie. Continue reading