The Spring 2027 collection, which its progenitors deigned to christen Vacanze Siciliane, unfurled behind the runway a screen of theatrical magnificence. For in Milan, in June, one requires some vast illusion merely to survive the journey from rosy dawn to purple dusk, through the crushing heat that settles upon the city. Thus were bodies exhausted by the Milanese summer invited to plunge, by proxy, into Mediterranean waters both crystalline and cruelly out of reach.
But Sicily, let it be said, is no mere holiday retreat for wandering Englishmen and fashionistas in search of content for their social media feeds. No. It is a magnificent palimpsest, an island with the excellent taste to have been conquered by the Greeks, the Romans, the Normans, the Moors, the Spaniards, and the Bourbons, each leaving behind, like a distracted guest, a handful of masterpieces. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have, for years, displayed the elegance of remembering this history better than historians themselves, and of exhibiting it even more persuasively. For this spring season, they paid tribute not only to the heritage of their own house, an exercise which, in lesser hands, might border on nostalgia, whereas for them it remains an act of conviction, but also to the island’s traditions and to a craftsmanship one would gladly call centuries-old, were the century itself not forever in such haste to disappear. Continue reading →