BE VIGILANTE AT ROCHAS

As its new creative director of ready-to-wear, Rochas has selected Italian designer Alessandro Vigilante. Under Alessandro Michele, he worked also for Dolce and Gabbana, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, and Gucci.

He was a known commodity to Interparfums SA, the parent company of Rochas and Philippe Bénacin, the chairman and chief executive officer, revealed in an exclusive interview that Vigilante quietly started working for Rochas in May, contributing to its spring 2024 collection.

During Paris Fashion Week in February, he will unveil his first official collection for Fall 2024. A return to the runway is planned for September 2024 in a presentation format, according the group.

According to Vigilante, the brand was immediately understood by Vigilante, which will create a new identity while building on its codes of elegance, audacity, femininity, and sophistication. We will stay Vigilante.

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A NEW CEO IN STELLA

Amandine Ohayon has been appointed CEO of Stella McCartney. She will be based in London and will replace Gabriele Maggio, who joined the company four years ago and will leave next month to pursue other opportunities, according to an anonymous source he will join the LVMH group.

Amandine was most recently CEO of Pronovias and has spent much of her career in the beauty industry, working with brands such as YSL Beauty and Armani Beauty.

In her new role at Stella McCartney, she will help elevate the house and accelerate its development based on its long-standing commitment to sustainable fashion, with a very corporate message.

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WOULD THE LORD LEAVE THE SHIP?

Mansvelt succeeds Antoine Arnault, Bernard Arnault’s eldest son, who has held the position since 2012 and will now remain as Chairman of Berluti, Chairman of Loro Piana, and in charge of Image and Environment for LVMH.
Arnault said: “I am very happy and quite emotional to welcome Jean-Marc as the new CEO of Berluti, building on the values of elegance, audacity and unique “savoir-faire”.

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SAKS FIFTH AVENUE J’ADIOR

Dior’s Carousel of Dreams at Saks marks the retailer’s first exclusive collaboration with a luxury fashion house for its annual holiday initiative. The largest acquisition in Saks history took 10 months of planning by 100 artisans and involved designing and manufacturing objects in Italy for the Saks building and flying them to New York, hello eco planet.

Saks’ annual holiday celebration, which begins with its magnificent light show on Fifth Avenue, is one of the most anticipated, spectacular and enchanting in the world.

Marc Metrick, CEO of Saks, and Delphine Arnault, president and CEO of Dior, were introduced Monday evening at the unveiling in front of the flagship product.

LOUBOUTIN AND KNOCK-OFF

Earlier this week, Meta and Christian Louboutin filed a lawsuit against a Mexican individual accused of running a counterfeiting operation.

On Thursday, Meta and Louboutin filed a lawsuit in the Northern District of California alleging Cesar Octavio Guerrero Alejo violated Meta’s terms of service and Instagram’s terms of use and infringed Christian Louboutin’s intellectual property rights by using Facebook and Instagram accounts to promote counterfeit Christian Louboutin products.

In violation of Meta’s terms, Cesar Octavio Guerrero Alejo has operated an online business trafficking in counterfeit goods, including fake Louboutin-branded shoes, handbags, and accessories, starting in June 2020 and continuing until May 2023.

According to the lawsuit, Alejo created and maintained at least 44 Facebook user accounts from May 3, 2010, to Jan. 11, 2023, as well as 32 Instagram accounts from Oct. 15, 2015, to Dec. 28, 2022. Continue reading

ANNE FONTAINE IN MADISON

Thirty years after starting her company, Anne Fontaine was understandably reflective before Thursday night’s launch party for her Madison Avenue store.

While guests mingled in the Gabriel Kowalski-designed space, the designer and her cofounder husband Ari Zlotkin detailed future plans and one life-changing experience that left an indelible imprint on Fontaine.

Some of last year’s gains were due to opening a Monaco store, relocating stores in Florence and Zurich and a revival in sales in the company’s Paris flagship, he added, adding that the number of high-end travelers from Russia, China and the Middle East have declined in Europe, due to ongoing military and political conflicts, including the Israel-Hamas war.

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BURBERRY A BAR IN NEW YORK

Burberry is taking its Streets   to New York, opening the Knight Bar, a temporary takeover of Temple Bar in NoHo, and recreating a small corner of London.

For seven days, from Friday to Nov. 16, the bar will be decorated in a new Burberry red check and serve a special menu curated by Norman’s, the North London café famous for its English muffins, scrambled eggs, sausages, battered fish and hash browns. Continue reading

JORG G BUCHERER DEAD AT 87

Jörg Gerold Bucherer, the chairman and third generation of the now Rolex-owned watch and jewelry retailer Bucherer, died on Monday at the age of 87.

A grandson of watchmaker Carl-Friedrich Bucherer, who opened a shop in Lucerne, Switzerland, in 1888, distributing his own designs before launching his own brand in 2001, followed by timepieces from others.

In the 1920s, Carl Eduard and Ernst joined the business, and Ernst struck a deal with Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf to distribute the brand.

The son of Carl Eduard Bucherer, Jörg Bucherer took over the Switzerland-based business in 1977, expanding it to Austria in the following years then Germany in the 90s. Continue reading

FASHION AWARDS 2023

Last night, the fashion industry’s power players and their celebrity guests mingled to celebrate the honorees and winners of the 2023 CFDA Fashion Awards. Among the VIP guests were Serena Williams, Kim Kardashian, Gwyneth Paltrow, Anne Hathaway, Demi Moore, and many others…

In addition to caviar and broccoli sticks, glasses of champagne were passed around; the museum’s animal exhibits stayed illuminated, giving the big night of American fashion a rather eccentric backdrop, since animals were present in the ballroom.

Fashion icon Serena Williams’ winner, more expensive in fabric than the Diplodosore, was designed by Thom Browne, the new CFDA president.

Paltrow was dressed in Goop’s G Label to receive her Innovation Award. “It’s very validating,” Paltrow said of being honored by the CFDA.

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BEAUTY KERING RICHEMONT AND OTHERS

Richemont is building a Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie and Kering is taking beauty in-house. Building a business in this industry isn’t easy, and there is no one-size-fits-all approach. There are four main reasons why beauty is a lure today: growth, resilience, desirability, and margins.

Fragrance and cosmetics are a big, fast-developing business, with the category generating sales last year of approximately $430 billion. Whereas the fashion business, with its discretionary categories, has become more difficult, beauty is part of a daily routine, and people will keep buying beauty.

In addition to its frequency of use, beauty has a high perceived value. Despite difficult economic times, people continue to buy it because they are pleased with the value. As with handbags, beauty’s margins are among the highest in luxury.

Kering seems to be tearing a page out of the LVMH playbook by creating multiple avenues into the brands, and potentially spreading their marketing budgets across all the fragrance brands. Funny NO? Who will Kering include in its basket of perfumes?

A.I IN FASHION

Artificial Intelligence does not stop its expansion, and in fashion, the word intelligence is certainly badly used: creation of images, writing of texts, generation of music… This is a simple reuse of existing or real artistic creations. The question divides the profession and raises questions about the future of creators who are now in dire straits.

The fields of intervention of AI in the image sector are expanding more and more every day. It is possible to create your logo, your visual identity, your photographs and videos like “Jacques muse-muse”, to manipulate the consumer. The promise is to generate the design with little effort, which helps many designers like Rous-tintin and many others who do not know how to draw or make a pattern or dress worthy of the name with their hands.

Generative AI works on the principle of “machine learning”; technology based on experience acquired through the digestion of content from web databases. Thus, many artists are worried about the use of works in AI databases, because, in fact, many images have been retrieved from the internet for AI training and used without permission. consent of their Rights Holders. The lack of legal framework for the exploitation of these bases is a subject at the heart of numerous debates. Continue reading

TAPESTRY PLAY AGAINST LVMH

Tapestry, Inc. is an American multinational luxury fashion holding company. It is based in New York City and is the parent company of three major brands.

Tapestry Inc. has agreed to purchase Capri Holdings. Capri, owner of Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo, is expected to be valued at $8.5 billion after the acquisition. The company’s shares are purchased for $57 each. The LVMH garden will be endangered by this new luxury group.

The six brands now owned by the two companies generate more than $12 billion in annual sales.

We are excited to own these brands and maximize their value. We think we’re a good landlord, and we have a lot to offer.”, says Roe.

ADIDAS A SMOKING GUN

In its ongoing battle with Thom Browne over the designer brand’s use of stripes, Adidas believes it has uncovered a smoking gun.

In court papers filed with the U.S. The District Court for the Southern District of New York found on Thursday that Thom Browne improperly withheld several e-mail chains which admitted that there was a likelihood of confusion between Adidas’s three-stripes and the company’s ‘four bar’ design.

Adidas alleges that four emails were exchanged between Browne and Rodrigo Bazan discussing the potential confusion in the market if four bars were used on sport-related products.

“Thom Browne’s concealment of these highly relevant and highly damaging e-mails denied Adidas a fair trial,” the brief stated. “Adidas is therefore entitled to relief under Federal Rule of Civil Procedure 60(b)(2), which provides for relief when a party uncovers evidence that likely would have changed the outcome of trial.”

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L.A. FASHION START BY UKRAINIAN DESIGNER

Lever Couture, designed by Ukrainian-born, Los Angeles-based designer Lessja Verlingieri, kicked off Los Angeles’ busy fashion season Friday night.
Due to the violence in Israel and Gaza, Saturday’s Academy of Motion Pictures gala with a star-studded red carpet has been postponed. But other events will take place, such as Los Angeles Fashion Week, beginning Wednesday.

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THE LANDMARK LONDON HOTEL

I remember that wonderful moment when, in front of me, the barely sketched vision of the blur and beauty of London appeared. The sun, when we arrived, whitened the streets like a luminous heart to forget the other capitals of the world. At the sight of the Hotel which appears  like a mirage, my heart began to beat again, drunk at seeing the divine breath of writing resurrected in me, and the large interior garden under the glass dome gives an impression of the outside where a world of truth weighs down.

Superb luxury building, with calm and voluptuousness, which blends into the surrounding majestic buildings and without the crackling street fire, the palm trees inside throw us out of the world and its hustle and bustle.
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DURAN LANTIK PARIS FASHION WEEK

You are probably already familiar with Duran Lantink’s fashion designs, even if his name doesn’t ring a bell. The Amsterdam-based fashion designer is the creator of the infamous vagina trousers worn by Janelle Monáe last year in her music video Pynk. Continue reading