Miu Miu, a little-awaited moment to imagine the version of the woman in disguise for the long-gone ‘Uta de Ballenstedt’. However, will Miuccia serve us? The front row was filled with a cheerful kermesse, from a cowgirl in a swimming costume to an army of schoolgirls in pleated skirts ready for their first Manga playground.

But this season, the retro woman is back, with her hair ‘brushed’ like a Manniatis salon, granny pins and underwired bras sculpting the silhouette as if the 1950s were the new Madmen cool. The return of the good old conical bra, an icon of exaggerated femininity, revived in the 80s by Madonna and ‘Jean Paul Gaulé’, already copied from Elsa Schiaparelli, and today by Millennials fascinated by everything that preceded their birth. Nothing’s the same as it used to be! Nor afterwards.

Since arriving at the helm of Saint-Laurent in 2016, Anthony Vaccarello has breathed new energy into the house, juggling Yves Saint Laurent’s legacy while propelling it into a sharpened modernity. The Belgian designer has imposed his vision: a sculptural, sensual and striking style, where every line and every cut seems to have been cut with a scalpel.

Under the glittering spotlights of the Garde Républicaine, Nadège gives us a shiver of leather, like a mirror of time, a faithful reflection that flamboyant vintage would not disavow, and like a trend that wraps itself on a breath of silk on the black skin of time. The spring to come dances under the weight of the wind’s skin, riding jackets and wise trousers, coats like sails ready to open, sculpted suits and daring coats for a woman in lambskin plunged into a bath of sexuality.

Hold on to your Stetson, Schiaparelli’s cowboy sheriff-in-chief Daniel Roseberry is determined to stay in the saddle. Having already pulled off the chic western trick last year, the Texan designer is back with a rawer version of the genre: hammered leather like rodeo chaps, shearling jackets worthy of a trapper escaped from a Scorsese film, and XXL buckle belts worn…

But the big revolution this season isn’t the overdose of accessories, but the switch from gold to copper at seven thousand euros a kilo. Yes, this noble and under-appreciated material which, in burnished chic mode, gives a satin dress the charm of an old copper pot and transforms a pair of pearl pyjamas into an involuntary homage to the drainpipe of an old bathtub belonging to the Duchess of Châtelet. A daring choice or a shortage of gilding in the workshops? It’s a mystery.

Whatever the case, Roseberry is making a radical departure from its ultra-corseted Haute Couture collection of January. A change that, according to him, has nothing to do with feminist awareness. No, no, he bristles at the idea that the corset was designed to appeal to men. We can therefore imagine that he designed it above all to enable women to better store their floating ribs on the side. A pure act of ergonomic design. No ?

The title of Off-White’s fall show? “State of Resistance”. A bold name for a brand long celebrated for championing the Black community under the visionary leadership of the late, great Virgil Abloh. But times have changed since Abloh’s passing in 2021, and these days, designers are a little more hesitant to turn the runway into a soapbox.

Not Ibrahim Kamara, though. He’s here to remind us that community spirit and inclusive vision are still stitched into Off-White’s DNA. In today’s world, that might seem radical. Controversial, even. But really, isn’t it just about remembering how to exist alongside other humans without losing your style?

Kamara’s vision? Imagine Mars-style leather suits with varsity-style letters spelling out OO (Off-White? Or just Ooooh?). Biker jackets morphed into aerodynamic overcoats, while parkas and matching shorts featured just enough utility details to make you feel prepared for… whatever life throws at you.

There were also nods to tradition classic uniforms reimagined with ribbed panels and bold graphics inspired by the star and eagle from Ghana’s national emblem.

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Under the golden dome of an ancient temple, Where dreams are adorned with divine fabrics, A ballet of shadows and lights awakens, The curtain rises on a hymn to textiles.

With a white thread, the past whispers to the lapels, A masculine coat, austere and sculptural, Opens in cadence on the velvet of a dream, A dress undressed, draped in mystery.

The colors rise like fiery notes, Burnt orange, deep purple, eternal black, The silhouettes soar, chiseled and free, Capelines hemmed with a thread of desire. Jackets curl up in protective cocoons, While belts embrace the waist, Closing with one gesture the promise of the evening, Opening with another on a shiver of audacity.

And there, in the dance of skirts and pleats, The pants become accomplices of souls,

Sharpened legs, undone buttons, Freedom runs under the caressing fabric.The wind clings to ethereal blouses, the silks whisper forgotten stories, the tips stretch, the seams sing, a fabric opera, an ode to the ephemeral.

The great textile circus, where the important thing is no longer to dress up, but to dress down, starts with the IFM or the Art of Making Genius Without Genius. Fashion schools used to train dressmakers. Today, they produce ‘mastered’ students, well qualified, not unintelligent of course, but without intelligence. And at the head of this great standardisation is the IFM (Institut Français de la Mode), the Funny Man and the Man from Toledo. They have transformed this factory of standardised designers after absorbing the prestigious schools of French haute couture.

When Donatella Versace transforms your bedding into haute couture: is fashion reaching its peak or its point of no return? But for Bob the man who, blessed by the gods of kitsch, looked at a curtain rod and said to himself: “Hey, what if I made a dress for Scarlett Honiara. Result: a legendary parody of “Gone with the Wind” concept à la Jaques Mumuse. But if Mackie dared to hijack Donatella Versace’s living room decor then forget the concept of “dressing room”, welcome to the era of “bedroom chic”!

Festival of baroque! Prints so bold that we wonder if the wallpaper of a Venetian hotel from the 80s was not used as a moodboard. On leggings, sculpted skaters, “because we do not skate with love”, blouses with “leg of lamb by Agneli” sleeves.

Men’s fashion, with flashy shirts and gold accessories worthy of a nostalgic rapper from the 90s. We even had the right to sequined t-shirts and jeans, for those who want to sparkle for no good reason. To perfect this ode to maximalism, heated benches and rococo blankets were made available yes, we are close to the thermal experience and for my bimbo demi-mondaine neighbor “finally Hot”.

After conquering fashion with XXL-sized shoulder pads and futuristic looks, Roustintin has decided to invade space, and not just olfactory space. The house is launching Blanc Galaxie, the latest addition to its Les Éternels fragrance collection. And mind you, it’s not just a fragrance, it’s a powerful symbol of hope and confidence, as if a spritz of bergamot can change a life.

The creator describes Blanc Galaxie as a blank canvas to fully express who you are to yourself and to the world. And that’s all there is to it. No need for therapy, just invest $260 in a bottle to finally understand who you are. The long result of many hours of psychotherapy for itself.

It’s true that we’ve always dreamed of smelling an eclipse. A daring olfactory concept, which could give other brands ideas (‘Éclipse Totale’ – the fragrance for difficult Monday mornings?).

The flashes of colour, wispy fabrics and animal prints of past seasons give way to an army of sophisticated trench coats, revisited officer’s coats, raincoats with fur-trimmed hoods and imposing scarves with tapered fringes. The palette is organic: deep browns, mossy greens and intense burgundies intertwine in a stylistic narrative with earthy, racy accents.

I like fashion because information leaks like old bimbos, and so Silvia Onofri has been named CEO of Miu Miu. She would succeed Benedetta Petruzzo, who joined Christian Dior Couture as CEO in October.

Silvia Onofri joins from clothing brand Napapijri, where she served as president. She was appointed to the role in February 2023, succeeding Massimo Ferrucci. After a 20-year career in fashion at luxury brands such as Bulgari and Bally. Napapijri is part of VF Corp. At Napapijri, Onofri has appointed its first global creative director, Christopher Raeburn, the British designer known for his sustainable credentials as a pioneer in recycling and upcycling fashion.

On Monday afternoon, Coach made its grand return to the Park Avenue Armory, a historic brick building located at 643 Park Avenue in Manhattan, New York, built in the Gothic Revival style in 1880. With a live soundtrack paying homage to David Lynch, Stuart Vevers presented a resolutely New York collection, inspired by the 90s with the style of inner-city youth.

alice + olivia founder Stacey Bendet pulls inspiration from her love of vintage and all things feminine to design clothing that juxtaposes the whimsical and flirty with the sexy and sophisticated. Ornamented fabrics, colorful prints and ultra-flattering fits provide today’s modern woman with options for every day and every occasion.

As rumor mongers and industry observers speculated Thursday about Sabato De Sarno’s potential successor at Gucci, is it Kim? Is it Hedi? Is it Maria Grazia?

Kering shares rose 5.1% to 251.90 euros as the stock market reacted to the news about the Prince of Venice. Some analysts were surprised, others less so, that Gucci decided to end its collaboration with its creative director less than three weeks before its fall 2025 show in Milan, specifying that the show would be presented by the brand’s design team.

The statement simply said that the new creative direction would be announced in due course. Sarno’s departure has fueled speculation that Hedi Slimane has reportedly bought an apartment in Milan since leaving Celine last year.

In addition to Dario Vitale, who left his position as Miu Miu’s ready-to-wear design director in late January, Versace is also said to be interested in him. Maria Grazia Chiuri is also reportedly a potential candidate to succeed De Sarno, who is returning to Giorgia Meloni’s homeland.