From Sarah Burton’s return to Alexander McQueen’s Savile Row roots to Chitose Abe’s pinstriped suits at Sacai to Louis Vuitton’s blanket-soft herringbone blazers and pants to Simone Rocha’s sublime sailor-inspired styles, tailoring was prominent throughout the show.
At Prada, Raf Simons called the idea “daily couture,” and the collection he designed with Miuccia Prada was full of it, with perfect black pants, army shirts and classic crewneck sweaters, as well as floral-decorated white skirts and volume-back military coats with origami flowers. Even Loewe elevated everyday leather shirtdresses, twisty knits, and trompe l’oeil dresses to must-haves.
A masterful mix of Space Age and modern age was showcased by Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne with chainmail, chandelier crystals, and fringed tinsel. Despite the return to reality, runway fireworks were largely absent, except for Thom Browne’s epic staging of “The Little Prince.” The season’s dominant storyline was wearable clothes, but it wasn’t enough to re-focus attention on New York, according to the new chairman of the CFDA. It’s important to put on a show.