DURAN LANTIK 2024
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BEAUTY KERING RICHEMONT AND OTHERS
Richemont is building a Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie and Kering is taking beauty in-house. Building a business in this industry isn’t easy, and there is no one-size-fits-all approach. There are four main reasons why beauty is a lure today: growth, resilience, desirability, and margins.
Fragrance and cosmetics are a big, fast-developing business, with the category generating sales last year of approximately $430 billion. Whereas the fashion business, with its discretionary categories, has become more difficult, beauty is part of a daily routine, and people will keep buying beauty.
In addition to its frequency of use, beauty has a high perceived value. Despite difficult economic times, people continue to buy it because they are pleased with the value. As with handbags, beauty’s margins are among the highest in luxury.
Kering seems to be tearing a page out of the LVMH playbook by creating multiple avenues into the brands, and potentially spreading their marketing budgets across all the fragrance brands. Funny NO? Who will Kering include in its basket of perfumes?
A.I IN FASHION
Artificial Intelligence does not stop its expansion, and in fashion, the word intelligence is certainly badly used: creation of images, writing of texts, generation of music… This is a simple reuse of existing or real artistic creations. The question divides the profession and raises questions about the future of creators who are now in dire straits.
The fields of intervention of AI in the image sector are expanding more and more every day. It is possible to create your logo, your visual identity, your photographs and videos like “Jacques muse-muse”, to manipulate the consumer. The promise is to generate the design with little effort, which helps many designers like Rous-tintin and many others who do not know how to draw or make a pattern or dress worthy of the name with their hands.
Generative AI works on the principle of “machine learning”; technology based on experience acquired through the digestion of content from web databases. Thus, many artists are worried about the use of works in AI databases, because, in fact, many images have been retrieved from the internet for AI training and used without permission. consent of their Rights Holders. The lack of legal framework for the exploitation of these bases is a subject at the heart of numerous debates. Continue reading
TAPESTRY PLAY AGAINST LVMH
Tapestry, Inc. is an American multinational luxury fashion holding company. It is based in New York City and is the parent company of three major brands.
Tapestry Inc. has agreed to purchase Capri Holdings. Capri, owner of Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo, is expected to be valued at $8.5 billion after the acquisition. The company’s shares are purchased for $57 each. The LVMH garden will be endangered by this new luxury group.
The six brands now owned by the two companies generate more than $12 billion in annual sales.
We are excited to own these brands and maximize their value. We think we’re a good landlord, and we have a lot to offer.”, says Roe.
ZARA WILL SAVE THE PLANET
Zara parent company Inditex has committed to purchasing €70 million worth of textile-to-textile recycled polyester material from Ambercycle. By launching items 50% made with the Zara Athleticz range, the brand’s technical sportswear range for men is saving the planet.
A fundraising of $21.6 million in January 2022, with other fast fashion players, including H&M, Jack; Jones and Vero Moda, parent company Bestseller, and Zalando, as well as investment funds. Inditex also owns, among others, the brands Berhska, Massimo Dutti and Pull&Bear.
This action will help the group achieve its nebulous objective of using 25% of its textile fibers from new generation materials by 2030. Zara dressed us in designer copies, now you will also be dressed with recycled materials with prices which would always be higher. Welcome to the world of Fast Fashion. But this is the result of the appearance of the giant Shein on the market.
KERING SLOW DOWN
According to Kering’s third quarter sales figures, the group’s turnover fell by 13% at published exchange rates and by 9% on an underlying basis, to 4.46 billion euros.
Kering’s revenue is in line with analysts’ estimates, most of whom had already lowered their expectations for the quarter and their stock price targets.
Gucci, Kering’s largest brand, reported revenue of €2.22 billion, down 14% on a reported basis and 7% on an underlying basis. Bottega fell 13 percent and Yves Saint Laurent 16 percent.
François-Henri Pinault, said that beyond the difficult macroeconomic conditions and the slowdown in demand in the luxury industry, “our third quarter turnover reflects the impact of our decision to further raise our brands and our distribution”.
“Managing our homes in the current market environment and regaining our position and influence” with the organization put in place by Kering in July. Following the acquisition of Creed last week, one of the world’s most distinguished fine fragrance houses has joined our family, propelling our beauty ambitions.
CEO MONTBLANC EXIT
Montblanc’s CEO since 2016 Nicolas Baretzki will leave the Hamburg luxury house. He has had a turbulent tenure at Montblanc, part of Swiss luxury group Compagnie Financière Richemont, parent company of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Chloé, and Dunhill.
In March 2021, he hired veteran leather goods designer Marco Tomasetta to accelerate Montblanc’s transformation into a “luxury house with a professional lifestyle.” Continue reading
JENNIFER TIT
A capsule collection has been launched by Jennifer Lopez with Italian lingerie brand Intimissimi. Entitled “This Is Me Now”. You have to eat well! A new line inspired by the pop star’s upcoming ninth album is now available. Continue reading
ADIDAS A SMOKING GUN
In its ongoing battle with Thom Browne over the designer brand’s use of stripes, Adidas believes it has uncovered a smoking gun.
In court papers filed with the U.S. The District Court for the Southern District of New York found on Thursday that Thom Browne improperly withheld several e-mail chains which admitted that there was a likelihood of confusion between Adidas’s three-stripes and the company’s ‘four bar’ design.
Adidas alleges that four emails were exchanged between Browne and Rodrigo Bazan discussing the potential confusion in the market if four bars were used on sport-related products.
“Thom Browne’s concealment of these highly relevant and highly damaging e-mails denied Adidas a fair trial,” the brief stated. “Adidas is therefore entitled to relief under Federal Rule of Civil Procedure 60(b)(2), which provides for relief when a party uncovers evidence that likely would have changed the outcome of trial.”
CALVIN KLEIN GRABS A ZARA GIRL
Calvin Klein has named Eva Vidal Dans as chief product officer she succeeds Jacob Jordan who had been global chief merchant and product strategist since October, 2020, and left in May.
Eva Vidal Dans is a seasoned merchandising and product executive whose creativity, inspiration leadership style and deep fashion expertise will help strengthen and grow Calvin Klein's product offering.
Dans was most recently with Inditex, where she led the product strategy for the Zara Group and its Sustainability Innovation Hub. Earlier, she oversaw the design, sourcing and product divisions, where she led a team of 100 and built successful product strategies for Zara’s more than 200 commercial markets.
RENNE IS NOT IN BRITTANY
The first name Davide comes from the Hebrew “daoud” which means “loved” or “cherished” a real program. As a result of Jeremy Scott’s recent departure, Moschino has appointed Davide Renne as its creative director. Aeffe, the Italian fashion group that controls brands such as Alberta Ferretti, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Pollini and Moschino, announced the news Monday morning.
In addition to leading Gucci’s women’s style office, Renne served as the brand’s head designer for womenswear for more than two decades. He will oversee Moschino’s womenswear, menswear, and accessories collections, reporting to Massimo Ferretti, executive president of Aeffe.
In a release, Renne described his approach as one of discovery and experimentation, we will see. The appointment of Davide Renne follows a series of new creative directors who have recently taken up their positions. Among them are Seán McGirr, who succeeds Sarah Burto at Alexander McQueen, and Chemena Kamali, who replaces Gabriela Hearst at Chloé.
L.A. FASHION START BY UKRAINIAN DESIGNER
Lever Couture, designed by Ukrainian-born, Los Angeles-based designer Lessja Verlingieri, kicked off Los Angeles’ busy fashion season Friday night.
Due to the violence in Israel and Gaza, Saturday’s Academy of Motion Pictures gala with a star-studded red carpet has been postponed. But other events will take place, such as Los Angeles Fashion Week, beginning Wednesday.
ETAM IS PALACE
Like every year, the Etam Live Show 2023 marks the start of Paris Fashion Week. For this 16th edition, the French brand pays homage to one of the capital’s greatest nightlife temples: the Palace and its supercharged atmosphere. Continue reading
THE LANDMARK LONDON HOTEL
I remember that wonderful moment when, in front of me, the barely sketched vision of the blur and beauty of London appeared. The sun, when we arrived, whitened the streets like a luminous heart to forget the other capitals of the world. At the sight of the Hotel which appears like a mirage, my heart began to beat again, drunk at seeing the divine breath of writing resurrected in me, and the large interior garden under the glass dome gives an impression of the outside where a world of truth weighs down.
Superb luxury building, with calm and voluptuousness, which blends into the surrounding majestic buildings and without the crackling street fire, the palm trees inside throw us out of the world and its hustle and bustle.
Continue reading
KIKO KOSTADINOV THE PARIS CHOICE
Kiko Kostadinov (Bulgarian born 1989) is a Bulgarian fashion designer based in London. He currently is the creative director of his eponymous label as well as British heritage brand Mackintosh’s premium line Mackintosh 0001. Kostadinov’s work is centered on modern-day uniform and contemporary workwear.
ZARA CLOSE
Spanish fashion company Inditex has joined the list of international companies temporarily closing operations in Israel. Worker safety would be a major concern said Zara. There are also obvious concerns about material losses.
Besides Zara, other companies have announced temporary closures, including Swedish retailers Hennes Mauritz, also known as H&M, and Ikea.
Over the weekend, major airlines, including Delta and United, suspended flights to Israel. Reuters reported that El Al was increasing flights to bring reservists to the war zone and that Carnival Cruises was rerouting ships.
ROKH PARIS 2024
It’s been three years since Rok Hwang founded the Rokh label. Now with a LVMH Prize Special Prize in his pocket and a slot on the Paris Fashion Week schedule, the Celine alum is lining up with the big Fashion.
DGENA LONDON FASHION WEEK
Telling better stories and delivering what the creative designer would like to express may gain more consumer preferences and build a good foundation in the long run.
The brand is shifting more and more online to achieve significant growth with unique and meticulously crafted items, such as bombers, event attire and statement accessories.
For the first time since the pandemic, the Paris-based brand crossed the Channel to London with a unique and intimate presentation last Tuesday at the Residence of the French Embassy. The collection was presented in five immersive acts, each featuring different looks and performers.
“Upcycling is the new way of doing Fashion” says Dgena, “I rework fabrics and bring Parisian chic to a new streetwear wave. But work, work and more work, that’s the way to inspiration. In fashion, some people only work a few weeks before the show and the rest of the time they go on holiday, I work all the time.
FM
DURAN LANTIK PARIS FASHION WEEK
You are probably already familiar with Duran Lantink’s fashion designs, even if his name doesn’t ring a bell. The Amsterdam-based fashion designer is the creator of the infamous vagina trousers worn by Janelle Monáe last year in her music video Pynk. Continue reading
KERING SHARES REMAIN STABLE
Since he announced his departure from Exane BNP Paribas, the small world of finance Luca Solca, who arrived at Bernstein in 2009, assassinated Kering for the first time.
Bernstein’s Luca Solca downgraded Kering shares to a “market perform” rating from an “outperform” one based on Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci follow a activity, and a flurry of management and creative changes at the French group.
CHANEL PORQUE TE VAS
Show, show, show the screen will be show. Here, it is the Villa Noailles, but, in reality, we are at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, in Paris, and I watch my fear live which suddenly becomes obscure. A Victorian sap “invitation to the coronation obliges” had to sing or shut up, so I loosened my fist from my calame and grabbed Virginie Viard’s harvest, just for a moment.
There appeared to me a multiple rainbow made of flesh and dust, which rumbles to the door of my spirit, a new breath so that my pain of waiting ends.
Why I, the most living of the living, more than all, receive the fashion of darkness where the flowers among the living fall more than reason. Heat of the next day which will hit the ground before me, and where the reality without the muse of the bimbos in the front row will make me realize that, when fashion and the stars are dead in our eyes, nothing happens. Porque te vas… could the song from the show be any information?
FM
THE GRAND VUITTON HOTEL
Parisian rumors have been rife since the announcement of Louis Vuitton’s takeover of a gigantic building on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées and subject to the “su putation” of Parisian bohemian fashionistas from the suburs. A Vuitton Hotel to receive the new collection of the designer, in a room covered with an orange tarpaulin, a nod to Pharell and his speedy bag orange with LV logo. It seems that he said to Nicolas, “Orange is the new black”. Future Hotel and cultural venue “Culture often breeds monstrosity” said Georges Braque, imagined by architect Peter Marino and his gay biker look.
VALENTINO PROTECTS WOMEN
In part, Valentino’s performance at the Beaux-Arts school with FKA Twigs was a response to violence against women in Italy, which has fueled public discourse that blames victims for attacks. “It’s important for women to be free to express themselves through their body and not to be judged,” Piccioli said during a preview at the brand’s headquarters on Place Vendôme. Continue reading
COMME DES GARCONS
The Comme des Garçons show on Friday evening felt like she could not stop herself from adding more zany prints, color, texture, sparkle and volume, resulting in some of the largest, strangest collections yet.
Metal brooches and large gemstones adorned the ankle boots and Salomon sneakers.
The gargantuan Peter Pan collars had something uplifting and even humorous about them.
There are silhouettes that resemble giant turtles and conch shells. A harness in candy colors was added here and there by Kawakubo.
This mesmerizing display of dressmaking certainly on steroids, and joy unleashed, was enhanced by Meredith Monk’s otherworldly wailing.
RICK OWENS VEILED WOMEN
It was Owens’ bubble shaped dresses in crumpled leather that mimicked John Chamberlain’s foam sculptures, while his silk gazar jumpsuits were Judd-esque. (Donald Judd). Continue reading
GIVENCHY PARIS 2024
HOW TO MAKE A COLLECTION IN TEN DAYS
If you can create a collection in ten days which usually takes six months, either you are a Picasso or you are a liar, it’s up to you to judge.