Author Archives: admin

GUCCI VISION

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The last two years have been a watershed. Kering began taking beauty back in-house in February 2022, and Richemont in September 2023 said it was building a Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie, among other moves.

The homing in on beauty comes as luxury makers’ once red-hot trades in China and fashion, with its discretionary categories, cooled. But beauty has remained strong due to its ongoing growth, desirability, margins and resilience during challenging geopolitical and macroeconomic times.

Fragrance and cosmetics a big, fast-developing business, with’its products boasting high frequency of use. The category generated sales in 2022 of approximately $430 billion. Continue reading →

VERY SPEEDY PROCESSING P9

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The French luxury brand has redoubled its deployment, including a temporary establishment on Avenue des Champs-Élysées in Paris and a takeover of its Fifth Avenue flagship in New York, both entirely decorated with the checkerboard pattern. . . it was the keystone of Monsieur Happy’s spring 2024 collection.

During Vuitton’s pre-fall men’s show in Hong Kong in early December, Williams took a quick business trip to China, which coincided with the installation of three giant Speedy airbags: one on the exterior of the Louis Vuitton house . . Chengdu lighthouse. and two in Shanghai, one of which ran down the Huangpu River into the city.

According to research and data analytics company Launchmetrics, the show had a media impact value of $42.6 million. The event broke records by garnering 775 million views on Vuitton-owned platforms and an additional 300 million video views on press accounts, the brand said, but no orders! Continue reading →

A SMELL KARDASHIAN

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The company, which also creates Ariana Grande’s eponymous fragrances, is teaming with Khloé Kardashian on a fragrance range that will launch in the latter half of 2024.

In business, I don’t look to loan my name out to someone. I’m really hands-on and controlling, which I take as a compliment, and this was the right fit.”

The success of Good American, the brand she cofounded with Emma Grede in 2016, also gave her the confidence to try something new.

Kardashian joins recent celebrity fragrance entrants, from Lionel Messi to Millie Bobby Brown and Beyoncé. Tony Bajaj, chief executive officer of Luxe Brands, said the company had been searching for another fragrance partner in recent years.

Noreen Dodge, chief marketing officer of Luxe Brands, didn’t comment on sales, but industry sources think the business could reach a first-year retail sales volume of $80 million to $100 million.Back to the year 1980 when they made perfumes for anyone and which today have completely disappeared.

ROLEX AND THE OTHERS

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According to the French Competition Authority, Rolex has been ordered to pay 91.6 million euros (around 87 million francs at current prices) for prohibiting its authorized distributors from selling the watches online for more than ten years.

In a press release published Tuesday, the Competition Authority fined Rolex France, Rolex Holding SA, the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, the owner of the company (financially committed to the Aventinus Foundation, owner of Le Temps SA), as well as Rolex SA, for its capitalistic, organizational, and legal links. The fine is “accompanied by a communication and publication injunction”.

According to several sources, the crown brand is the most important player in the French market due to its notoriety and market share. Since the start of the year, France has been the eighth destination for Swiss watches, according to data from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH). Continue reading →

THOM BROWNE PRE 2024

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Thom Browne or the external sign of inner wealth, for one of the most personal collections he has ever presented. With its sense of shimmering color from the last collection, it is a perfect opposite because the gray now “relieves” it. Thom’s color this season, this gray symbolizes refinement, maturity, and conservatism in a cleverly constructed cocktail of the upcoming Trumpist wave.

There is a pleated skirt, Tartan type, an inexhaustible source of creations for Scots on the go, which could make Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen out of date. The collection of an androgynous artist, who praises my wandering spirit as a Jew and Greek shepherd to the “faith”.

And despite everything, it is poetry from another time delivered in this sumptuous, inaccessible and insane setting of the Big Apple, initiated for an unfailing pleasure for the eye. Giving is a physical and psychological need, and the adrenaline of a heart in search of pleasure is also shared together in the city of “Taxi Driver” and Edgar Allan Poe.

FM

THE THEATER OF FASHION

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Despite her formidable workload as artistic director of Dior’s women’s collections, putting 200 small hands to work on her intimate collections, Maria Grazia Chiuri is working on a personal project to restore a historic theater in her hometown of Rome. She has to find something to do to retire.

The Teatro della Cometa, or Comet Theater, became dark as the black of his eyes and the designer purchased the 250-seat horseshoe-shaped hall in order to give it a second life. Thank you lord for your help.

An important part of Rome’s history, she called the investment “something to give back to my city, which I really love and also because it is a creative project.” She who spent most of her life in France and Caribbean.

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LVMH AND CHANEL GIVES LESSONS

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The French want to take over global luxury under the patronage of the Marand nap. LVMH and the Lord Bernard Arnault also acknowledged LVMH and Chanel’s collaboration. The environmental challenge redefines the usual rules of competition, said the chairman and CEO. According to Lord Arnault, competition should focus on design and creativity, and businesses should share information. But the real reason is to get familly hands on global luxury.

According to Antoine Arnault, the two groups have the same vision of luxury and will have to work together to move faster. As part of a video interview, Chanel SAS president Bruno Pavlovsky discussed the importance of building a relationship between the groups that often source from the same suppliers.

“I believe it is our duty to know how to rise above the usual patterns. This is why we have chosen to invite certain competitors today,” he added. “Progress of any kind is crucial. We must join forces.” The name of the game from now on for us is going to be Scope 3. Continue reading →

CHLOE AFTER AN ITALIAN A FRENCH MAN

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Laurent Malecaze, chief executive officer of Dunhill since January 2022, is to take the management helm of Chloe.

As the architect of the Paris fashion house’s new business model based on purpose, sustainability and accountability, he succeeds Riccardo Bellini.

Chloé parent Richemont said Bellini's decision was made in full collaboration with the group to allow proper completion of his mission; and a smooth transition.

In his four years as president and CEO, the Italian executive recruited Gabriela Hearst to fast-track Chloé’s eco ambitions to B Corp status. He also found Hearst’s successor, Chemena Kamali, who is to stage her first fashion show during Paris Fashion Week next February. During Bellini’s tenure, Chloé grew both financially and creatively, according to Richemont.

MARGIELA EX NIHILO

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A magical breath for a playful demonstration, in a balance which emerges at the same time as an evolution which is shaped by its history. Here is a true designer, and who will remain so, John Galliano, the emperor of couture seduces us. Spotlight on clothing, which is not just a consumer product valid for one season, but which is a story, a life, an evolution, and above all a redemption.

A collection which is the most beautiful, the most snobbish, the most intellectual, the most radical, the most influential, the most wearable too, but above all the most desirable… A radicality which recalls that of the writer Jack Kerouac, and ultimately, the ex-fashion pariah who goes to Margiela for a transplant which is taken, leaving in the process the questions left hanging by these gentlemen of the family, of the fashion institutions.

A fan of recovery, DIY and recycling, well before his time, we remember his collection at Dior and the terribly ingenious garbage bags. It’s bluffing, often astonishing, and there is humor, Dadaism in the diversions, the second-hand clothing becomes “Arty”, poetic too, imbued with experience and re-mastering with a mastery of technique which reveals itself under our eyes.

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CHANEL FISH AND CHEAP

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On Wednesday evening, a handful of tall Bimbos, sitting in the stands of the football stadium, located in the county of Greater Manchester, were waiting for the next day’s show. Did she know that the venue, built in 1909, is the home of Manchester United? This stadium was destroyed by German bombings during the Second World War, when Mademoiselle Chanel slept with a Wehrmacht officer. We prefer the memory of her affair with Hugh Grosvenor, the region’s second Duke of Westminster and the richest man in Britain, which reminds us that Coco was already very international.

This year, after Dakar, Chanel chose the black of Coke from Manchester, a mining town. For Haute Couture Bimbos, a shock of cultures contrasts with the destinations of yesteryear: heavenly beaches and champagne galore. For me it will be a wetsuit jacket in my Rimowa. Thank you Lord, and I’m taking the “Poudlard Express” for a Métiers d’Art parade which is ultimately a return to basics, because the city in the 19th century was driven by the textile industry where half of the world’s cotton passed through its factories. ; triangular slave trade obliges.

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BULGARI AND PRADA ACTRESS

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Bulgari’s Christmas campaign embraces the past, present and future. If you don’t recognize Anne Hathaway, it’s normal, botox has been there.

Bulgari presents its holiday campaign and new collection, featuring the brand’s global ambassador our Devil Wears Parada actress.

In the campaign, Bulgari’s jewelry, watches, accessories and fragrances are influenced by iconic Roman art, history, jewelry, and architecture, including the Colosseum, imperial coins, beautiful mosaics, and much more.

The latest collection, Cabochon, celebrates the art of ancient silversmithing traditions from ancient Roman times. Blending the brand’s heritage with contemporary silhouettes, the Cabochon pendant and ring are inspired by the Cabochon cut. The new collection creates “a drop of pure molten gold,” perfect for the magical festivities to come.

BE VIGILANTE AT ROCHAS

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As its new creative director of ready-to-wear, Rochas has selected Italian designer Alessandro Vigilante. Under Alessandro Michele, he worked also for Dolce and Gabbana, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, and Gucci.

He was a known commodity to Interparfums SA, the parent company of Rochas and Philippe Bénacin, the chairman and chief executive officer, revealed in an exclusive interview that Vigilante quietly started working for Rochas in May, contributing to its spring 2024 collection.

During Paris Fashion Week in February, he will unveil his first official collection for Fall 2024. A return to the runway is planned for September 2024 in a presentation format, according the group.

According to Vigilante, the brand was immediately understood by Vigilante, which will create a new identity while building on its codes of elegance, audacity, femininity, and sophistication. We will stay Vigilante.

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BALENCIAGA AND L.A

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Luxury brands now use almost every corner of Los Angeles for their runways, from Chanel at Paramount Studios to Burberry at the Griffith Observatory, Saint Laurent on the beach in Malibu to Gucci on Hollywood Boulevard. However, one truly iconic spot remained.

It’s like our Eiffel Tower an L.A. native said of seeing the 100-year-old Hollywood sign used as the backdrop for the fall 2024 Balenciaga show Saturday afternoon in Los Angeles.

Demna’s latest extravaganza was held on Windsor Street, which offers perhaps the best view of the landmark in the city. It was quite a culture shock to see the old monied neighborhood of Windsor Square, home to Gettys, Chandlers and the L.A. mayor’s residence, stormed by the all-black-clad, Spandex bodysuit-boot wearing, grill-sporting, avant-garde fashion set.

As Nicole Kidman deadpanned, posing in a knockout off-shoulder tweed couture coat dress that made her the day’s best dressed, Kim Kardashian, Kendall Jenner, François-Henri Pinault, Salma Hayek, and newly minted brand ambassador Nicole Kidman attended her first Balenciaga show on the street. Continue reading →

DIS MOI CÉLINE

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It is not easy to forget that Celine canceled her spring 2024 show after a teenager was killed by police in Paris.

Hedi Slimane, Celine’s artistic director and image director, returned to the venue “La Gaité Lyrique” the same month to film his models in tight leather pants and sparkly shirts or jackets as if they were rock stars of yore storming through a golden corridor.

Featuring ballet dancer Laurids Seidel leaping up a storm at the Opéra de Monte-Carlo, as well as a caped figure rotating atop Le Grand Rex cinema and concert venue in Paris, rebranded with Celine logos.

With black suits, white shirts, and skinny ties Slimane pioneered at Dior Homme earlier in his career, the collection felt like the greatest hits of one of the most influential menswear designers of the new millennium.

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LUXURY AND SUPERFAKE

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Fashionphile’s “master” authenticators undergo more than 8,000 hours of rigorous training to weed out designer fakes at the luxe online marketplace. Name of school The RealReal

For example, trainees learn quickly to spot an error in the date format on a Louis Vuitton bag or the metal alloy makeup of a Cartier watch.

A $25k Hermès Birkin bag smells good, and its Barenia leather feels good, but the retailer’s first round of checks is conducted by artificial intelligence, which is trained on 30 million images to detect nearly imperceptible differences in stitching and hardware placement.

Additionally, an algorithm calculates a product’s risk based on everything from the consignor’s selling history to its popularity on the black market. But counterfeiting is making progress every day, who will win this race for cheap luxury?

A NEW CEO IN STELLA

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Amandine Ohayon has been appointed CEO of Stella McCartney. She will be based in London and will replace Gabriele Maggio, who joined the company four years ago and will leave next month to pursue other opportunities, according to an anonymous source he will join the LVMH group.

Amandine was most recently CEO of Pronovias and has spent much of her career in the beauty industry, working with brands such as YSL Beauty and Armani Beauty.

In her new role at Stella McCartney, she will help elevate the house and accelerate its development based on its long-standing commitment to sustainable fashion, with a very corporate message.

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WOULD THE LORD LEAVE THE SHIP?

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Mansvelt succeeds Antoine Arnault, Bernard Arnault’s eldest son, who has held the position since 2012 and will now remain as Chairman of Berluti, Chairman of Loro Piana, and in charge of Image and Environment for LVMH.
Arnault said: “I am very happy and quite emotional to welcome Jean-Marc as the new CEO of Berluti, building on the values of elegance, audacity and unique “savoir-faire”.

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SAKS FIFTH AVENUE J’ADIOR

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Dior’s Carousel of Dreams at Saks marks the retailer’s first exclusive collaboration with a luxury fashion house for its annual holiday initiative. The largest acquisition in Saks history took 10 months of planning by 100 artisans and involved designing and manufacturing objects in Italy for the Saks building and flying them to New York, hello eco planet.

Saks’ annual holiday celebration, which begins with its magnificent light show on Fifth Avenue, is one of the most anticipated, spectacular and enchanting in the world.

Marc Metrick, CEO of Saks, and Delphine Arnault, president and CEO of Dior, were introduced Monday evening at the unveiling in front of the flagship product.