LOEWE EXCITING NEXT

It’s exciting to see Jonathan Anderson explore the unknown in menswear the void of Lavoisier.

The Loewe men’s show was stunning, challenging in its directness, unorthodox in its use of copper colors and pewter and vellum, and often chic in a strange way I thought I was a plumber.

In the midst of a fall season filled with tailored wool coats, Anderson’s were exceptional in their elasticity, and even more intriguing when cut a little looser and buttonless, with a deep V-shaped opening into which the mannequins rested an arm.

Several models wore white and red contact lenses, adding eerie and disturbing moments to the show, which was framed by three large-scale paintings by Julien Nguyen. The zombies are back.

Crewneck sweaters tightened at the side seams, creating bulbous shapes, while trench coats puffed up like dresses seen in old master paintings sponsored by Michelin. A silver top with a bulging hem contained sand to create a new “modular” shape. Continue reading

VUITTON CHICAGO FIRE

Somebody pinch Colm Dillane. Just 18 months after winning the runner-up award at the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, the Brooklyn, New York-based designer was at Paris Fashion Week to present the collection he codesigned for Louis Vuitton, the world’s biggest luxury brand.

Dillane, the founder and creative director of the KidSuper label, came to the table with a 500-page book of ideas, but Vuitton’s in-house team had already designed a large portion of the collection, which revolved loosely around the theme made in Chicago.

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GIVENCHIC BECOME GIVENCHEAP

In terms of savoir-faire, what is the difference between a man’s suit so peerlessly tailored in a couture atelier that there are no outseams on the trousers, and a windbreaker or puffer jacket that is garment dyed, producing unpredictable, uneven color variations?

Is it one of Matthew M. Williams’ best Givenchy men’s collections to date, showing his range as a designer and combining innovation in tailoring and sportswear? Probably not.

YSL MALE SINGULAR

In the soft gloom of the new flagship of the Kering Group, the spotlights reflected in the azure eyes of the models, and like a kiss that makes us shiver, Vaccarello, the magician, makes our souls shiver in a gesture so neutral that we are all surprised. A grand piano, in the middle of the large round room, installed there for the actress Charlotte Gainsbourg who plays on the keys of melancholy.

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PRADA UNCONVINCING OUTERWEAR

In a Milan men’s season lacking in excitement, especially as Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reinvent the ’70s pie collar

No applause broke out at the end of their sad Sunday show, an austere collection in a setting of Art Deco chandeliers was the only interesting thing about this show.

FENDI MADE IN LUXURY

In a mesmerizing display, it was difficult to take one’s eye off the stunning show. Hand-painted, antique-finish leather coats, shearling jackets, and hand-woven cashmere totes stuffed with cashmere blankets, along with crocodile boots with Cuban heels.If your budget is less than five figures, you’re out of luck. Continue reading

TATJANA PATITZ

It would be necessary to speak in the language of Victor Hugo or Cornelius to describe the beauty.

In memory to TATJANA PATITZ (25 March 1966, Hamburg – January 2023), the German top model who achieved international prominence in the 1980s and 1990s representing fashion designers on runways and in magazines such as ‘Elle’, ‘Harper’s Bazaar’, and ‘Vogue’. Patitz was one of the big five supermodels who appeared in the 1990 music video “Freedom! ’90” by George Michael, and is associated with the editorial, advertising, and fine-art works of photographers Herb Ritts and Peter Lindbergh.

In the book ‘Models of Influence: 50 Women Who Reset The Course of Fashion’, author Nigel Barker reviewed Patitz’s career during the height of the supermodel era in the 1980s and 1990s, writing that she possessed an exoticism and broad emotional range that set her apart from her peers. Continue reading

THE RED AND THE BLACK

For those in the market for decidedly evening styles, the couturier delivered glamorous but believable fare, lining up draped goddess gowns, monochromatic sheath dresses, sequined suiting in changeant tones of aqua and purple. There was even another hoodie, this time dressed in silver and gold sequins.

MUGLER MIDNIGHT IN PARIS

Mugler, the French house, plans to return to the Paris runway on Jan. 26 with a stronger presence. It has scheduled a presentation for 8 p.m. on Jan. 26 at La Villette, a vast cultural complex on the northeastern edge of Paris will parade a see now, buy now collection.

Paris couture week runs from Jan. 23 to 26 this season, and there are always a few ready-to-wear events at either end of the schedule. An immersive experience across all channels, and in front of a live audience, is what Mugler offers as a new concept. Mugler’s last live runway show was for fall 2020.

During lockdowns, Cadwallader produced three fast-paced films featuring special effects; fierce, body-baring fashions, and cameos from Megan Thee Stallion, Chloë Sevigny, Hunter Schafer and Shalom Harlow.

As the designer reflected on the power of film to engage wider audiences, he expressed some hesitation about returning to a simple runway show after the trilogy ended. Mugler has always been a popular brand and we didn’t want to keep the show only for the happy few, he added. Continue reading

L’ACOSTE GLOBE-TROTTER

After four years as Lacoste’s creative director, Louis Trotter is stepping down. In addition to directing the fashion show and general collections, Trotter contributed to the company’s shift toward women’s wear, lauding her “real consistency” in creating the company’s overall line.

She had joined the company in 2018, showing her first collection in February 2019 during Paris Fashion Week. Thierry Guibert praised Trotter’s creativity and commitment, as well as her contribution to Lacoste’s legacy.

Lacoste’s executive had noted Trotter’s contribution to the brand’s enduring sports casual identity during the opening of its Champs-Elysées flagship. An intimate presentation in Paris showcased her latest designs. In spring 2023, they will be available for purchase.

Lacoste is rethinking its creative approach, stating that it will take the form of “a collaborative studio model focused on a collective vision.” The brand will also be celebrating its 90th anniversary in 2023.

FURS FOR BIMBOS IT IS OVER

Days before the end of 2022, a pop-up store displayed sable, chinchilla, mink, fox and other furs for 75 percent off.

Furs last retail outlet in California was the high-end Beverly Center, a large shopping complex adjacent to Beverly Hills. The shopping center was trying to sell as much merchandise as possible before the California Legislature passed a statewide fur ban on Jan.

Bimbos have been buying our furs here for years at 25 degrees, and this has killed our business. Fur opponents have spent years slowly whittling away at California’s fur business, and they win.