McCARTNEY’S CHIC AND FLOURISH

Videos of countless copulating species covered the already highly decorated walls of McCartney’s show venue at the Opera Garnier. The message was either one of hope for Mother Earth or, “Hey, if we’re headed for extinction, let’s have a mother of a good time now.”

She joined the LVMH stable earlier this year with a role beyond her own brand, as a special adviser to Bernard Arnault and the group’s executive committee on sustainability.

This collection is her brand’s most sustainable ever. Which makes two reasons for her f–king good mood. The first: The lineup looked beautiful, “inspired by all of the fierce women, past, present and future, who aren’t afraid to make the world their own. The free spirits, the wild ones, the artists and the risk takers.”

BALMAIN MATCHES WITH CARDIN

In the end, the promised media frenzy did not come to pass: Kylie Jenner, who was supposed to oversee the makeup at Balmain’s show in Paris on Friday, canceled her appearance. “Unfortunately I’m really sick and unable to travel. I’m heartbroken to be missing this show,” she wrote on Twitter.

Rousteing said the collection was a tribute to the style of the late Nineties and early Aughts, as seen through the prism of pop culture. “Fashion is always referencing the Eighties and the Seventies, but there is a new vintage that for me is the 2000s,” said Rousteing.

Rousteing said he also delved into the archives of founder Pierre Balmain. But with its profusion of optical effects and circular motifs, the lineup recalled nothing so much as Pierre Cardin, the pioneer of the Space Age look. Continue reading

DIOR LOST IN THE BLACK FOREST

It was the tree that hides the forest. Maria Chiuri, more activist than ever, used ecology as a pretext to replace the trees in the Amazon forest. His place for that: Longchamp and more than 200 trees in its center. Where it will take tons and tons of fuel and carbon tax to re-finance in order to finally bring the inappropriate decor to this pseudo-ecological, zero-emission, ecological delirium, but no matter the end always justifies the means.

Falling trees from the sky, a kind of “Fashion Pact” in response to Mr. Pinault! The lord telling him I send wood too. A tree, by the way, had fallen when we arrived and when the security men rushed to pick it up. I said, “It’s okay. It does not stain. The models dressed in Greta Thunberg’s duvets march between the trees to the music of Bach’s Leipziner Choir, and the wolves around the forest shake so that in the darkness the serving “Me-too” can remove the little gourds. Continue reading

JEAN PATOU BY HENRY

The fashion designer takes the reins at the storied fashion house, as Patou approaches its 100th anniversary. Guillaume Henry shares his ambitions for the French heritage brand, which has been dormant since the 1980s. With an out-of-the-ordinary vision, Henry hopes to awaken this sleeping beauty from a decades-long slumber.

This afternoon, Patou will present its first ready-to-wear collection designed by Guillaume Henry. The last time this French maison, founded in 1914 by Jean Patou, hit the runway, it was precisely in July 1986 during the Haute Couture presentations. The maison’s stylist at that time was Christian Lacroix and, the day after the show, Lacroix resigned and established his own label with the financial support of Bernard Arnault. From then on, the brand has merely been able to survive through its cosmetics and fragrance businesses – its fragrance “Joy” being particularly successful. A success which ultimately convinced the LVMH Group to acquire all of Patou’s activities in 2018 and repurpose the fragrance’s name within Christian Dior perfumes. Continue reading

JENNER ROUSTEING MAKEUP

Kylie Jenner is about to add a new line to her bulging résumé: Olivier Rousteing has asked the cosmetics entrepreneur to be the artistic director for makeup at his Balmain show during Paris Fashion Week.

To celebrate the event, Kylie Cosmetics and Balmain will launch a capsule collection for sale online on Sept. 27, the day of the show, available worldwide on Kylie Cosmetics; web site. Jenner will attend a party at the Balmain store on Rue Saint-Honoré on Friday to toast the collaboration, which includes lip color, eye shadow, and accessories incorporating makeup that will be unveiled at the show. Continue reading

DIOR UN GALOP D’ESSAI DE SAUVEGARDE

In the run-up to her spring 2020 runway show for Dior on Tuesday, the designer has been delving into the brand’s archives  and in particular its rich tradition of floral designs while trying to imagine how that heritage could be updated to address today’s climate crisis.

Her answer? A collaboration with the Paris-based landscape and urbanism collective Coloco on the set for the show, to be held at the Longchamp racecourse in Paris, which will feature 164 trees that will subsequently be replanted in four locations in and around the French capital.

Coloco, whose expertise ranges from botanical activism to ecological engineering, was founded on the idea that gardens should be collective endeavors. The show set was conceived as an “inclusive garden” that promotes the need for plant diversity as a response to climate change. Continue reading

UNITED COLORS OF JCCB

Jean-Charles de la Casa de Castel, newly appointed artistic director at United Colors of Baratton, (a cream!). But the question is: can a man over 70 rejuvenate a brand that is the most metaphorical in Italy, and thus restore confidence to these paranoid young Millennials who live around us and who think the world is full of evil people, to such an extent that they are taught in companies to be kind to their neighbours? A real highlight!

This is a challenge worthy of this son of “midge”. Your mission (if you accept it) will be to awaken the brand. Mission impossible? And, well, no, that’s it. The collection was perfectly balanced, playing between Luciano’s heritage more American than express, and with the inspiration of JCCB, which will not plunge us into the depths of the water or the “inherited bone”. It depends on.

This is the great return of the elders to the manoeuvre. Yes, the main inspiration was the idea of water, a link with travel and sailors. Would the foam have excited him so much to touch the pompom? Amazing for a straight guy! With a sailor like Popeye and a Lula in an ecological canvas background, this is a collection that is full of energy with its excess spinach. Continue reading

THE CADENCE OF MY HEART

Like a Japanese mask a resulting from a genetic mutation of the NÔ theatre and a tyrant, here is a hazardous drama in the detail where one cannot remain indifferent to the pathetic of a Japanese forgetting the values of the symbolism of Mount Fuji, where the origin of the sun is translated as “the Empire of the Rising Sun”, will not be justified in being a nauseous abscess. It is a couture out of memory, an organza from Japan and declined in more than 400 shades for a fashionable inspiration of the dresses of Cristobal Balenciaga, Lee Bowery or Sailor Moon, tells us the famous newspaper Magazine of fashion run without ever saying the name of the real designer, Stella Cadente. Continue reading