TANFIN THE FEATHER OF KINGS

Babylon boasted its brick walls, Rhode had its colossus renamed proud, and Egypt made peaks with admirable masses of stone. For my part, the work of the pen comes from a miracle from heaven. But, who knows that the feathers of crows, heather cockerels and ducks were used for fine writing and the feathers of vultures and eagles for writing with broad strokes?

The goose quill is known to the Romans for writing on parchment and papyrus in the 4th century, but the Egyptians preferred calamus, which is where the calami slip comes from: a written slip, as opposed to the linguae slip, spoken.

The plumage is probably as old as human societies. The art of plucking is a sacred art and this manual craft requires great dexterity and concentration. Valérie Tanfin works the feather in all its forms: from the most meticulous and delicate to the most gigantic and extravagant. Her rare know-how blends both tradition and modernity. Continue reading

KERING FORREST BURN

Kering brands are banding together to donate a total of one million Australian dollars, or nearly $700,000, to local organizations in Australia working to fight the country’s wildfires, the group said in a statement Tuesday.

The group’s sustainability experts will select the organizations that will receive the funds, it added. In the longer term, the group, which owns fashion labels Gucci, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga as well as jewelry brands Boucheron and Qeelin, plans to take part in reforestation and biodiversity programs.

Wildfires ripping across Australia have killed dozens of people, destroyed homes and claimed the lives of thousands of animals, prompting an outpouring of support from around the world. The country’s entertainment and fashion industries are rallying behind relief efforts with over 50 fashion and beauty businesses, including David Jones, Country Road Group, Alex Perry, Dion Lee, Toni Maticevski and Elle Macpherson’s WelleCo pledging donations. Continue reading

CAMPAIGN OF THE LORD

Louis Vuitton has teamed again with Collier Schorr for its spring campaign. The photographer shot actresses Emma Stone and Zhong Chuxi and a cast of models at London’s Park Lane Hotel.

They are captured in the Belle Époque outfits designed by creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, toting signature handbags such as the new Vanity in Monogram and the latest versions of the Dauphine.

The campaign is due to break in the February issues of international magazines, accompanied by a series of short digital films, to be posted on Louis Vuitton platforms in February, set to a track by transgender singer Sophie, who appeared on a giant video screen during the brand’s spring runway show.

 

EMANUEL UNGARO DIED

Emanuel Ungaro died Saturday evening in Paris. He was 86. A funeral service will be held on Monday in Paris. Born in Aix-en-Provence, originally his family hailed from Italy’s Apulia region and emigrated to Paris during the Fascist period.

Known for feminine designs, embellished with frills and polka dots and a penchant for the color fuchsia, Ungaro founded his couture house in 1965 and retired in 2004.

At the age of 22, he moved to Paris. Three years later he began designing for the House of Cristóbal Balenciaga for three years before quitting to work for Courrèges. Four years later, in 1965 with the assistance of Swiss artist Sonja Knapp and Elena Bruna Fassio, Emanuel Ungaro opened his own fashion house in Paris. Continue reading

POLO DE FIGUERAS

Argentinian polo player, charity ambassador and model Nacho Figueras is launching his first luxury fragrance line, the Ignacio Figueras Collection, exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman on Dec. 11.

The six-scent collection is influenced by Figueras’ polo career and the scents are named after international polo tournament destinations  Buenos Aires, Figueras’ home city; Palm Beach, Fla.; Aspen, Colo.; Windsor, England, the site outside London of many a polo tournament; Jaipur, and Dubai.

The longtime face of Ralph Lauren fragrances developed the line for almost two years with master perfumer Carlos Benaim, who Figueras had known for a long time.

Figueras has plans to take the fragrance to Europe, and aspires to launch in Dubai and India. Sales of the collection will also raise funds for Sentebale, a charity that supports mental health and well-being of children and young people in Lesotho and Botswana affected by HIV.

BAG OR NOT BAG ?

Now, more than a decade later, the idea of one bag having it all has dimmed. According to an October report from The NPD Group, the handbag business is down 20 percent in the first eight months of 2019, compared to 2016.

Using the amount of bags on the spring runways as an indicator, the category is still a key driver of business and buzz for brands, but the entry points have expanded over the last five years. The rise of the resale market where prestige names like Chanel and Hermès, two brands that sit atop the status food chain, can be bought at reduced prices is beginning to chip away at market share. New brands are building buzz on social media and offer an entry-level contemporary price.

Consumers; attitudes about the resale market have shifted. Once the favorite of thrifty college students and hipsters, the resale accessories market now offers a buy-in on luxury handbags with marquee names that telegraph a level of social capital. Continue reading

ZEGNA HELLO GOODBYE

After six seasons of impactful presentations at Pitti Uomo in Florence, Z Zegna is making a soft comeback to Milan in January.

The Italian brand, which is focused on delivering smart and elegant men’s wardrobes fusing a sophisticated fashion aesthetic with high-tech innovation, will unveil its new fall 2020 lineup with one-on-one appointments at its Milanese showroom located on via Savona.

“After several seasons when Zegna presented its two collections, Ermenegildo Zegna XXX and Z Zegna, in Milan and Florence, respectively, we decided to focus on Milan and its fashion week, in a moment where the city returns to be the most important international destination for men’s fashion,” said Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori, explaining the decision.

While Sartori will meet journalists through personal appointments to illustrate the new Z Zegna collection, he will continue to stage a runway show to present the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX luxury men’s wear line. The show will take place the first evening of Milan Fashion Week, on Jan. 10 and it will immediately follow the Dsquared2 runway event, marking the Canadian-Italian brand’s 25th anniversary.

LIAIGRE DIERE DU LUXE

It doesn’t matter if you have style, reputation or money, if you don’t have a good heart, you’re worthless. Under heavy rain and despite the strikes, we arrive at Villa Liaigre at 71 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré where we are greeted by Anne Schumacher with a Ferrari body. In front of us” the Hotel Bristol, the palace of all the palaces, and this showroom created a year ago and a set of pieces “Master of art” of what France can give best in its heart, on the land of the Duke of Noailles sold to Jean François Sandrié, contractor of the King’s buildings, market garden of 60 ha on which is built the hotel and its surroundings.

Tribute to the works of Constantin Brancusi, for a cast iron stool imitating eben wood, a bedside table in bronze. I wanted to buy everything and do like that rich Chinese man in the roman of Marguerite Duras l’amant, who probably ordered a turnkey apartment for himself, to go live across the street while waiting impatiently for Liaigre to build his palace. Continue reading

RADIO STAR

A soft symphony that sounds like silk that scratches the symbols of a bygone era, and even if the way of listening has evolved, nothing is lost, everything is transformed to return like this pendulum, so well adjusted, which returns, after excess, to its starting point, of the traditional machines that played with the past and the present.

Is producing less amputated sounds with TSF tubes an ethical approach? Probably, because reconditioning these old posts of our grandparents will remain for a long time to come an object of the future past. His wood cracks from these memories like lightning flashes that smash from the sky on earth. She listened to Radio London and its litany of long sobs of autumn violins that rocked our hearts, in a monotonous languor, for the hope of a better life.

I met the Héleore company, in a small shop in Paris, where a group of craftsmen came from this beautiful region now called Occitania and their singing accent of Carcassonne, a city with medieval architecture restored by Viollet-le-Duc and thus inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Continue reading

CHRISTIE’S HYPE AUCTION

Christie’s brought in more than $2.1 million in its Handbags online auction, thanks in part to an Hermès matte white Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Birkin 30 and a Louis Vuitton x Supreme Monogram Malle Courrier 90 Trunk, which both doubled their low estimates and sold at $125,000 each.

While an overall total of 89 percent of the pieces were sold during the auction, Supreme merchandise exceeded that number, selling 95 percent of its pieces including an Everlast Boxing Group that sold for $17,500, Stern Pinball Machine for $32,500.

This auction successfully captured luxury as it is defined today, the sale further cements skateboards, handbags and consumer products as collectible assets comparable to art pieces. Continue reading

ART BASEL MIAMI BEACH 2019

In our American show, leading galleries from North America, Latin America, Europe, and Asia show significant work from the masters of Modern and contemporary art, as well as the new generation of emerging stars. Paintings, sculptures, installations, photographs, films, and editioned works of the highest quality are on display in the main exhibition hall. Continue reading