THEYSKENS NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR AT AZZARO

Designer Olivier Theyskens has been appointed by fashion house Azzaro as the new creative director. Theyskens succeeds Maxime Simoëns, who has resigned the position of creative director to the brand last year.

Theyskens will show his first collection for the fashion house during the couture week in Paris from 5 to 9 July. “There is a style from the sixties and seventies that is clearly about sensual and beautiful femininity,”. The designer will use the heritage of the fashion house for inspiration and translate it into contemporary fashion.

When Theyskens was at the head of Rochas and Nina Ricci, he frequently used historical references in the garments. That the designer will do the same at Azzaro is therefore in line with expectations, and in 2016 he revived his own label of the same name. He will continue to design for this, says the designer .

HOLLYWOOD GIANT DIES AT 103

Sure, you can’t discuss Kirk Douglas without mentioning the chin. That famously dimpled chin, which you’d never believe on a statue, nonetheless gave the Hollywood icon a granite jaw that served him well as a leading man for more than 60 years. But you also have to give Douglas who died Wednesday at the age of 103 credit for those piercing eyes, which gave the Spartacus star his relentless intensity. The chin made him a star, but the eyes made him an actor.

Given the eyes and the jaw, Douglas was equally adept at playing heroes and cads. He rose to fame playing the latter, in movies like Out of the Past, Champion Ace in the Hole (as a scruple-free reporter), and Hollywood exposé The Bad and the Beautiful. But he soon moved to nobler, if equally volatile characters, in such films as 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, The Vikings, Gunfight at the O.K. Corral , Lust for Life (where, as Vincent Van Gogh, he hid his dimple under a beard), Paths of Glory, and of course, Spartacus. Continue reading

NEWS FROM TIFFANY AND CO

When the luxury jeweler’s shareholders gathered at its New York headquarters Tuesday morning to vote on the mega sale to Arnault’s LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, it was in all the important ways, already a done deal. (Arnault wasn’t on the scene, but later issued a statement praising the go-ahead of the transaction, the largest deal ever in the luxury space).

The meeting was a formality and little resistance was expected to the deal, struck in November at $135 a share. Investors holding about 72 percent of Tiffany’s stock were represented at the meeting, although the majority of those shares appeared to be voted by proxy.

In the room sipping free coffee, nibbling on croissants, chatting with chief executive officer Alessandro Bogliolo and reading over the rules of the meeting was an eclectic group of smaller shareholders and employees. Continue reading

ON AURA TOUT VU

Soldiers disarmed, here is the conquest of the imagination and the mythology of childhood, this couple in perpetual creation deserves to be in the pantheon of fashion, they who dress all the most famous singers of the planet for their concerts, while the Lord of the Arnault pays these same singers to attend his presentations.

Both coming from the Balkans, they are marked by the military. Intimacy is the standard well hidden behind the extravagance of these two creators, a unique vision beyond good and evil, it tells the story of a life, a past that influences their sewing, just as Saint-Saint-Exupéry, in his time, was inspired by his travels in the desert. They are the little Prince of fashion.

Feathers and shimmering crystal sparkles of a lightness of being, when dawn takes flight here are the tightrope walkers of the needle in balance on the rainbow of challenges that invites us to Paradise but Latin. The last pure ones who row against the wind, because true artists are like that: always against the current. We have never seen a great painter being in the usual suitability of Panurge’s sheep. Continue reading

ZIAD NAKAD SPECTACULARLY YOUR’S

Ziad Nakad’s timeless pieces, defy the galaxies with spectacular dresses carrying women into a dream, like clear midnight blue constellations staring at the stars on silver tulle thrust into the fashion spotlight and intoxicated with the transparent and sublime night. Ziad Nakad awakens the deepest dreams with his pastel colours, champagne, silver and sunshine red which glow in the infinite showing us an imposing volcanic soul and creating chaos in ourselves.

This spiritual son of Elie Saab designs for the wealthiest European princesses and from his native Lebanon telling us tales of the thousand and one nights and illuminating fashion like Aladdin and his magic lamp.

His precious wardrobe is made of bountiful rivers of embroidery and precious gemstones, ultra-feminine with the sexiest sheath dresses decked out in spectacular drapes honouring the stars of his native orient. Continue reading

PUCCI SERIAL DESIGNER

Emilio Pucci is to invite guest creatives to interpret its rich heritage, starting with Christelle Kocher, a French designer whose ready-to-wear label Koché is well-known for vibrant patchworks, prints and streetwise savvy.

Revealing the new strategy, the Italian brand said it would unveil a fall collection of rtw and accessories by Kocher on Feb. 20 during Milan Fashion Week.

Controlled by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton for the past 20 years, Emilio Pucci has experimented with a variety of permanent designers, including Julio Espada, Christian Lacroix, Matthew Williamson, Peter Dundas and MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti. Since Giorgetti exited in 2017, an internal team has turned out collections as LVMH executives pondered the best way forward for the Florentine house.

Engaging serial collaborators rather than a full-time creative director is becoming a more common business model, pioneered by Ruffo Research in the late Nineties and adopted in recent years by larger brands such as Moncler and Tod’s.

Sidney Toledano, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Fashion Group, said the approach will inject more creativity, which is a passion for the French group and its leader the lord of the rings.

CARDI B WITH MUGLER

After her viral Venus sheath dress moment at last year’s Grammy Awards, Cardi B teamed once again with Mugler for another high-fashion moment.

The Grammy winner, who skipped out on the 2020 Grammy Awards red carpet, joined forces with Mugler designer Casey Cadwallader and her stylist, Kollin Carter, to create a custom-made nude dress embellished with an array of crystals and a cascading train.

Cardi paired the look with a custom-made Gismondi 1754 necklace featuring 310 carats of white diamonds.

“From the moment I saw it, I knew it was going to be a debatable moment, some people would love it and some people would hate it and that’s everything we’re about when it comes to fashion,” he said.

YANINA COUTURE IN PARIS

The Museum of Modern Art of the city of Paris was far too small to accommodate the Russian diaspora present. All the Russians from Paris were there, except for Countess Ignatieff, my friend, who was not invited, “Don’t worry, you will get an invitation when she will make real Haute Couture, and when you will be a real Countess”.

In reality, this collection was a bit confusing, because you can find the worst as well as the best: some dresses are quite badly finished and cut by a model who obviously doesn’t know her trade and probably works the “feston” stitches with boxing gloves, and, at the same time, you discover a marvel that appears to you like this yellow dress with a bustier of flower petals straight out of Monet’s gardens and of the most beautiful effect. The dichotomy between the two pieces is so obvious that you can only think that there are two designers in the house.

One could imagine that the very transparent black dresses of the models, who paraded before me, lifted the veil on the hot nights of St. Petersburg. Continue reading

SORBIER THE RIO GRANDE OF HAUTE COUTURE

And the horse rode along my page with his rider and shaded what I wrote. Slowly he turned its head, and as if it was afraid that I would read into its beastly heart, stretching out its muzzle to touch the Mexican sun. It sets off like a king playing with its eternal freedom, galloping even faster without worrying about the world around and brushing against the aficionados of Fashion Week, mixing the wind with its golden hair, but above all coming without knowing how to make Franck Sorbier’s dress undulate in the horizon of Neptune.

Today the space is splendid, without bridle or spur, but above all without restraining our spirit. Like two angels tortured by an implacable silk of organza, in the crystal blue of the morning. Oh, What a beautiful Mexican Amazon! Her young forehead radiates with pride, and the pleasure burns her feet with the happiness of galloping in such a place. Amazons born as daughters of “La Caballera” by Mario Luraschi’s Warrior Nymph, it’s not something you can make up. In the past, they lived near the Rio Grande and here they are alone to defend our poet of Haute Couture, Franck Sorbier.

I keep in my heart the tenacious imprint of the Maestro of Haute Couture, a French cultural exception, of which he remains to this day the sole custodian. You are a Great One, Sir, and no one will be able to take your place, so be it. Continue reading

DIOR, MY MOTHER’S WIFE

Dior comes to pose a structure of the lying woman’s body, Here is a structure that is more reminiscent of an extravagant sculpture by Anish Kapoor posed like a big piece of excrement in the middle of Paris.

It is in this same museum that Camille Claudel had shown through her creations all the femininity of the world. Does Maria Chiuri dream of this one? As a tribute to her Roman upbringing, the mannequins, all sails floating outside, remind us of the Roman virginal vestals, the very ones who took vows of celibacy to honour the goddess Vesta.

Yet, under the invisible tutelage of an angel, the creator is drunk with sunshine. Here is the ambrosia and the nectar of vermeil running between the dresses of her predecessors (Josse, Franck Sorbier and Hervé Léger) remixed with a dress from the 1930s; a nod to Judy Chicago, a visual artist and activist of her state, to end up making a collection worthy of Louisa Spagnoli. Continue reading